Chispax

I am hiking TMB before heading to Kandersteg and then to Wengen by train. I see that I can hike over a couple of high passes to get close to Wengen. Looks like it is a two-day hike. Has anyone hiked this stretch? One book describes hikers punching their arms through snow to keep their balance...I am hiking alone at this point so am not in the mood for using ice axes or crampons. Is there any way to hook up with other hikers who may be through-hiking? I probably should just go around on the train but I hate to pass up a good hike.

enzian

Hi Chispax,

This is part of the Alpine Pass Route, but I think it would be three days to Wengen if you wish to walk all of it. First day would be Kandersteg over Höhtürli (Blumlisalphütte) to Griesalp. There are mountain hotels there---my books say the Golderli is expecially nice. Second day would be over Sefinenfurke to Mürren. These are the two highest passes on the route, and might have snow in July, but probably not in August. I can't remember when you are doing the TMB. If there is snow, you shouldn't attempt it, particularly not alone. But I've been up to Höhtürli in August and there was no sign of snow. On the Oeschinensee side there is lots of scree but the trail is stable. Going down to Griesalp from there, it is very steep rock, but I believe it is protected with cables. It is not a hike I would do alone, however. And staying at Hotel Oeschinensee on several occasions, we have never met anyone who was heading over the pass in that direction. I think many people hike the Alpine Pass Route in the other direction, so that may account for that. We did meet people hiking the route in the other direction up at Blumlisalphütte.

As far as hooking up with other hikers, that's a great idea, but I'm not sure how you would find them.

brookwood

Enzian has done the route up high, so take his advice. I can add only this:
If you decide you want to shorten it a little, go first to Griesalp and cross to the Mürren side via the Sefinenfurka.

You can get to Griesalp from Frutigen by Post Bus. Quite a few trains make the short trip from Kandersteg to Frutigen.

We drove as far as Kiental last year and took the Post Bus the rest of the way.
The trail for a ways beyond Griesalp is fairly flat, but becomes very steep soon thereafter.

A very fit hiker could make the trek from Griesalp to Mürren, or the shelter hut, in one day. I think you will enjoy it.

Chispax

Thanks for the info. As enzian suggested before I am staying at Oechinesnsee Lake on Aug.12. I think I may just add a day there and hike up the trail and then back down to the lake. There probably is a good reason people hike this alpine trail the other direction! Of course, hiking a mile straight up in scree isn't my idea of fun hiking, although I love hiking down in it! As a single mom of an 11 year old son (who is taking a vacation elsewhere)I tend to play it safe these days on my solo hikes. Sigh. Looks like I will take the train around.

Since you seem to know a lot about hiking in Switzerland, I am staying in Luzern on July 27 for three days before hiking TMB. Any good warm-up hikes near the city? I am then going to Lausanne overnight before meeting my TMB group at the Geneva Airport. It looked like a better city to stay one night in then Geneva but I could be wrong!

enzian

Actually, Enzian is a "she" . . . a Swiss alpine wildflower. . .

If you want to go up to Blumlisalphütte from Oeschinensee as a day hike, you can make a loop, as there are two trails for part of it. We did it clockwise, but I think I would have preferred the other direction. There are some large rocky steps above the lake that I would rather have negotiated going up than down. To go anti-clockwise, start out along th elakeshore and follow signs to "Unterbargli". Both trails are clearly designated on a map. Either way, you have to go up and down the scree slope on the same trail, but as I said, it's pretty stable. Poles help.

An alternative hike, a little shorter but even more spectacular, is to go up to Freundenhütte on the oppposite side of the lake (to the right as you face the lake). Part of the trail ascends a cliff face on ledges---the path is wide enough and protected with cables, so it feels completely safe (unless it is wet from rain---don't try it then). At some points you are looking almost straight down at the lake. The hut sits at the foot of a glacier and the trail stops there, so you return by the same route.

As Brookwood suggested, you could consider hiking the route from Griesalp over Sefinenfurke to Mürren---it is not as high nor as difficult as the Höhtürli. I haven't hiked the whole route, but have been most of the way up on the Mürren side. You can find photos of it on the web if you just Google Sefinenfurke.

Unfortunately I know nothing of hikes in the Luzern area, but I'll bet someone else here can suggest some.

I'll be very interested to see your trip report, as I'd like to hike either the TMB or the hiker's Haute Route myself someday. Did I already ask what tour operator you are going with?

Chispax

Sorry about that! Hard to tell he/she here. I am going with REI on the TMB trip. I have never used them but others I know have and liked them. In the past I have gone with Sierra Club either national or local chapters because I am a volunteer hike leader for them. However, the trips can be up and down (no pun intended..) depending on the experience of the volunteer leader. Thought I would give REI a try this time.

Thanks for the two hikes for O. Lake. I agree that hiking rocks and cables in the rain is not a good idea! Since I have never hiked the Alps I have no idea how "trails" or cross-country compare to other mountains, like Kings Canyon in CA, for instance. Sounds like the central Alps get a lot more rain than the southern Alps and both probably get more than the Sierra.

Thanks for the hiking tips. I always find I change my plans anyway when I see a particular peak up close I want to climb. I will write up a trip report when I return on TMB.