Ira Returns From 22 Loverly Days in Europe
#43
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Hi All,
As you remember, in our last episode Ira was leaving the rental office in a Renault Clio. Let's listen in as he says, "How do I get back to the hotel"?
As it turned out, it was very easy. I followed the signs to the Cathedral and sopped in front og the Gutenberg. By that time, they had taken our luggage downstairs. In a few minutes, we were off to Baldenheim and <b>Les Prés d'Ondine</b> (www.presdondine.com).
We took the scenic route via Rosheim, Klingenthal, the Col de Steige and Selestat. Occasional fog shrouded the higher elevations of the mountaintops. Overall, a pleasant trip that didn't upset my acrophobic passenger.
Arriving at the Ondine, we found that our 80E/nite room (Mai) faced the river. In addition to the lovely view, it was quite nicely furnished. We settled in, visited Sélestat and had a snack there, returned to speak to the swans and the cat before changing for dinner.
Mr Dalibert cooks for his guests (32E). That night we had an Alsace Riesling for an aperitif. Pumpkin soup, accompanied by a Gewurtztraminer, was followed by excellent braised lamb shanks with talliatelli (Pinot Noir), salad with cheese, an apple tart with home-made ice cream and coffee. A very, very good dinner with pleasant conversation (some of the guests spoke English and the rest tolerated my French).
For those of you who are not adventurous eaters, let Mr Dalibert know of your likes and dislikes before you arrive. He will arrange for something to suit you.
Saturday broke sunny and fair. Breakfast (12E) was the usual - coffee, chocolate or tea; juices; various breads, croissants and pain au chocolate; fruits with creme fraiche and/or yoghurt; pancakes; assorted meats.
After breakfast, we drove up to Mont Ste Odile and Obernai and then down to Eguisheim before returning to the hotel. I have nothing new to add to the volumes written about the charm and beauty of these places.
Dinner at <b>Maximilien</b> (www.le-maximilien.com) was top-notch, first-class, top drawer. Food was well prepared, beautifully presented, and smoothly and properly served. Roberta had the Menu Entre Deux (featuring the Sole), and I had the Carré and Ris d'Agneau persillée. Along with the cheese platter and wine - 144 E. (The full menu is posted at their website.)
Sunday morning's breakfast featured Kugelhoff in place of the croissants and pain au chocolate, but we were still able to force something down.
Bidding <i>au revoir</i> to our host, we aimed East toward Lake Constance.
More to come.
As you remember, in our last episode Ira was leaving the rental office in a Renault Clio. Let's listen in as he says, "How do I get back to the hotel"?
As it turned out, it was very easy. I followed the signs to the Cathedral and sopped in front og the Gutenberg. By that time, they had taken our luggage downstairs. In a few minutes, we were off to Baldenheim and <b>Les Prés d'Ondine</b> (www.presdondine.com).
We took the scenic route via Rosheim, Klingenthal, the Col de Steige and Selestat. Occasional fog shrouded the higher elevations of the mountaintops. Overall, a pleasant trip that didn't upset my acrophobic passenger.
Arriving at the Ondine, we found that our 80E/nite room (Mai) faced the river. In addition to the lovely view, it was quite nicely furnished. We settled in, visited Sélestat and had a snack there, returned to speak to the swans and the cat before changing for dinner.
Mr Dalibert cooks for his guests (32E). That night we had an Alsace Riesling for an aperitif. Pumpkin soup, accompanied by a Gewurtztraminer, was followed by excellent braised lamb shanks with talliatelli (Pinot Noir), salad with cheese, an apple tart with home-made ice cream and coffee. A very, very good dinner with pleasant conversation (some of the guests spoke English and the rest tolerated my French).
For those of you who are not adventurous eaters, let Mr Dalibert know of your likes and dislikes before you arrive. He will arrange for something to suit you.
Saturday broke sunny and fair. Breakfast (12E) was the usual - coffee, chocolate or tea; juices; various breads, croissants and pain au chocolate; fruits with creme fraiche and/or yoghurt; pancakes; assorted meats.
After breakfast, we drove up to Mont Ste Odile and Obernai and then down to Eguisheim before returning to the hotel. I have nothing new to add to the volumes written about the charm and beauty of these places.
Dinner at <b>Maximilien</b> (www.le-maximilien.com) was top-notch, first-class, top drawer. Food was well prepared, beautifully presented, and smoothly and properly served. Roberta had the Menu Entre Deux (featuring the Sole), and I had the Carré and Ris d'Agneau persillée. Along with the cheese platter and wine - 144 E. (The full menu is posted at their website.)
Sunday morning's breakfast featured Kugelhoff in place of the croissants and pain au chocolate, but we were still able to force something down.
Bidding <i>au revoir</i> to our host, we aimed East toward Lake Constance.
More to come.
#44
hi Ira,
how do you find such lovely places to stay and eat? your research certainly pays off.
looking forward to Bodensee.
regards, ann
PS -you haven't told us how you got on actually driving the clio. we need to know.
how do you find such lovely places to stay and eat? your research certainly pays off.
looking forward to Bodensee.
regards, ann
PS -you haven't told us how you got on actually driving the clio. we need to know.
#47
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Hi Ann, Tod and TD,
A: The Clio was OK to drive. It has decent pickup, is OK on hills, has good mileage and the breaks work.
It is noisy, bumpy and not very comfortable.
B: Finding accomodations,
Guide books, www.tripadvisor.com, google and, especially, Fodor's.
C: Mr Dalibert is taking his first vacation since he bought and refurbished the facility (about 6 years). I think that he will be back from India in December. You could ask him.
BTW, he said that he had gotten a 350E RT fare from Paris/Bombay.
A: The Clio was OK to drive. It has decent pickup, is OK on hills, has good mileage and the breaks work.
It is noisy, bumpy and not very comfortable.
B: Finding accomodations,
Guide books, www.tripadvisor.com, google and, especially, Fodor's.
C: Mr Dalibert is taking his first vacation since he bought and refurbished the facility (about 6 years). I think that he will be back from India in December. You could ask him.
BTW, he said that he had gotten a 350E RT fare from Paris/Bombay.
#48
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From Baldenheim, we crossed the Rhine to Riegel, went to and through Freiburg to follow the 31 Eastward to Stein Am Rhein. The scenery was quite nice and the road was well marked.
Stein Am Rhein is a lovely town that is all spruced up for the visitor - painted buildings and lots of restoration. After a light snack, we headed for Lindau - following the signs all the way. Very pleasant ride along the lake.
We were warmly greeted at the <b>Hotel Eiscafe Schreier</b> (http://www.hotel-schreier.de/wpde/en/hotel/), and shown to the Capuccino room. Both this and Vanilla are good-sized, comfy rooms with all of the mod cons and a terrace overlooking the harbor. There are a lounge chair and a covered table and chairs on each terrace. The staff is warm, friendly and helpful. The rates are quite reasonable. The breakfast, served downstairs in the cafe, is very pleasant (breads, meets, cheeses, fruits, vegetables, yoghurts, Muesli, scrambled eggs if you want them, coffee, tea and chocolate). You can breakfast outside, if the weather is nice.
That evening, a 4-piece jazz band serenaded us from the plaza as we shook off the dust and fatigue of our travels.
Dinner our first night was at <b>Wissinger's</b> (www.wissingers.de/ankommen/index.php). This new resto was recommended by Mrs. Wipperfürth (a lovely lady) and did not disappoint. The room is spacious and well decorated (although a bit sparse for our tastes). The food is well prepared and properly served. The staff is pleasant without being cloying. Dinner for two (lake fish for both) with salad, a bottle of Mueller Thurgau and coffee - 70E.
There is one thing about Wissinger's though. My Lady Wife and I will both swear that we walked up and down the street and it wasn't there. We asked at two local spots. They had never heard of it. On our second walk up the street - there it was. Despite our experience, they insist that their building does not appear and disappear.
Monday. cloudy and rainy in the AM, clearing in the PM. We visited Überlingen (pretty but rather touristy), the Brianz Church (Very Rococo interior, beautiful views) and the old town in Meersburg (Über Touristiche). (So what do you expect if you go to a major tourist attraction?)
Returning to Lindau, we got some very good ice cream cones (0.8E/scoop) from the Schreir and strolled the town.
Dinner at <b>Weinstube Frey</b> (Maximillianstrasse 15) was very interesting. It is located in above the main street in rooms that have harbored restos and cafes since the 16th C and still retains major portions of the antique flavor. Food and service was very good. The Pinot Noir Blanc was excellent.
Roberta had the cheese spätzel and a salad. I had the Rinderfilet (sirloin) in mustard sauce and a beer, along with a goodly portion of her spätzel. (It's a tough job, but someone has to do it.) Very nice evening - 60E for dinner and drinks.
Tuesday. Weather cleared.
This time, we got to visit Mainau Insle. There is ferry service from Lindau, but it is a rather slow voyage. You can save about 1:20 hr by taking the train/bus to Meersburg.
If you have a car, you can drive to Meersburg and park at the P4 dock, for 2E for the day. You then walk down through the old town to the East ferry dock. On your return from Mainau, take the bus from the ferry dock up to P4. For 12E, arrive very early and park down by the docks.
Mainau's gardens and parks are a tribute to what can be done with taste, money and time. They are beautiful. The island was opened to the public by Count Lennart Bernadotte, and the family still live there, so you can't just wander into the Schloss. The Kombiticket (ferry and Mainau Insle) is 28E pp.
Returning to the hotel, we opened a bottle of Gewurztraminer that we had brought with and relaxed out on the terrace until it was time for dinner.
We have been happy at the <b>Alte Post</b> (www.alte-post-lindau.de) before, so we visited again. A very pleasant, gemütlich place, it was just right for some herring filet, (no one does herring like the Germanic peoples) and lake fish. Along with a bottle of Weisburgunder - 58E.
Wednesday opened cloudy and drizzly, so after breakfast we headed for Brienz, Switzerland.
Stein Am Rhein is a lovely town that is all spruced up for the visitor - painted buildings and lots of restoration. After a light snack, we headed for Lindau - following the signs all the way. Very pleasant ride along the lake.
We were warmly greeted at the <b>Hotel Eiscafe Schreier</b> (http://www.hotel-schreier.de/wpde/en/hotel/), and shown to the Capuccino room. Both this and Vanilla are good-sized, comfy rooms with all of the mod cons and a terrace overlooking the harbor. There are a lounge chair and a covered table and chairs on each terrace. The staff is warm, friendly and helpful. The rates are quite reasonable. The breakfast, served downstairs in the cafe, is very pleasant (breads, meets, cheeses, fruits, vegetables, yoghurts, Muesli, scrambled eggs if you want them, coffee, tea and chocolate). You can breakfast outside, if the weather is nice.
That evening, a 4-piece jazz band serenaded us from the plaza as we shook off the dust and fatigue of our travels.
Dinner our first night was at <b>Wissinger's</b> (www.wissingers.de/ankommen/index.php). This new resto was recommended by Mrs. Wipperfürth (a lovely lady) and did not disappoint. The room is spacious and well decorated (although a bit sparse for our tastes). The food is well prepared and properly served. The staff is pleasant without being cloying. Dinner for two (lake fish for both) with salad, a bottle of Mueller Thurgau and coffee - 70E.
There is one thing about Wissinger's though. My Lady Wife and I will both swear that we walked up and down the street and it wasn't there. We asked at two local spots. They had never heard of it. On our second walk up the street - there it was. Despite our experience, they insist that their building does not appear and disappear.
Monday. cloudy and rainy in the AM, clearing in the PM. We visited Überlingen (pretty but rather touristy), the Brianz Church (Very Rococo interior, beautiful views) and the old town in Meersburg (Über Touristiche). (So what do you expect if you go to a major tourist attraction?)
Returning to Lindau, we got some very good ice cream cones (0.8E/scoop) from the Schreir and strolled the town.
Dinner at <b>Weinstube Frey</b> (Maximillianstrasse 15) was very interesting. It is located in above the main street in rooms that have harbored restos and cafes since the 16th C and still retains major portions of the antique flavor. Food and service was very good. The Pinot Noir Blanc was excellent.
Roberta had the cheese spätzel and a salad. I had the Rinderfilet (sirloin) in mustard sauce and a beer, along with a goodly portion of her spätzel. (It's a tough job, but someone has to do it.) Very nice evening - 60E for dinner and drinks.
Tuesday. Weather cleared.
This time, we got to visit Mainau Insle. There is ferry service from Lindau, but it is a rather slow voyage. You can save about 1:20 hr by taking the train/bus to Meersburg.
If you have a car, you can drive to Meersburg and park at the P4 dock, for 2E for the day. You then walk down through the old town to the East ferry dock. On your return from Mainau, take the bus from the ferry dock up to P4. For 12E, arrive very early and park down by the docks.
Mainau's gardens and parks are a tribute to what can be done with taste, money and time. They are beautiful. The island was opened to the public by Count Lennart Bernadotte, and the family still live there, so you can't just wander into the Schloss. The Kombiticket (ferry and Mainau Insle) is 28E pp.
Returning to the hotel, we opened a bottle of Gewurztraminer that we had brought with and relaxed out on the terrace until it was time for dinner.
We have been happy at the <b>Alte Post</b> (www.alte-post-lindau.de) before, so we visited again. A very pleasant, gemütlich place, it was just right for some herring filet, (no one does herring like the Germanic peoples) and lake fish. Along with a bottle of Weisburgunder - 58E.
Wednesday opened cloudy and drizzly, so after breakfast we headed for Brienz, Switzerland.
#49
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We took the B202 through Bregenz (the little bit of Austria on the Bodensee) and again crossed the Rhine - this time into Switzerland.
After a bit of turning around and retracing our route, we got onto the 13 headed South and followed the road around the Walensee, South through the mountains to the Urnersee, along the lake to the Sarner See and, thence, to the Brienzersee and the <b>Grand Hotel Giessbach</b> (http://www.giessbach.ch/en/).
After about 20 km into Switzerland, the scenery becomes spectacular, the mountains get higher, the roads become twistier and your acrophobic wife gets more and more unhappy. I get off the scenic roads onto the autoroute, when available, and she was able to hang on until we got to the Giessbach.
Switzerland is so picture-perfect that it looks like a postcard of Switzerland - right down to cows being walked down from the high pastures along the roads and streets, accompanied by the clanking of their bells. As we came to the end of our passage through the hills, dales, mountains, lakes and valleys, my map directions and the road signs pointed us to a very narrow, very steep, very rustic winding road.'
Proceeding at about 30 kph and blowing my horn at every curve, because there seemed to be no room for cars to pass, we safely arrived at a crossroads. To the left, the road continued to climb up the mountain to Axalp. To the right, the road gently descended to a public parking lot. As my wife refused to keep going up, we went down.
Fortunately, there appeared a sign pointing to the Giessbach: Drive through the parking lot to the private road to the hotel. It is a large, turn-of-the-century, resort hotel that has been beautifully restored to its heyday appearance and charm. The signs direct you through the private parking lot up to the reception area.
Actually, that is not quite right. One is supposed to leave the car in the parking lot and proceed on foot to the reception area.
It wasn't very difficult for the staff to extricate our car from the terrace.
After a bit of turning around and retracing our route, we got onto the 13 headed South and followed the road around the Walensee, South through the mountains to the Urnersee, along the lake to the Sarner See and, thence, to the Brienzersee and the <b>Grand Hotel Giessbach</b> (http://www.giessbach.ch/en/).
After about 20 km into Switzerland, the scenery becomes spectacular, the mountains get higher, the roads become twistier and your acrophobic wife gets more and more unhappy. I get off the scenic roads onto the autoroute, when available, and she was able to hang on until we got to the Giessbach.
Switzerland is so picture-perfect that it looks like a postcard of Switzerland - right down to cows being walked down from the high pastures along the roads and streets, accompanied by the clanking of their bells. As we came to the end of our passage through the hills, dales, mountains, lakes and valleys, my map directions and the road signs pointed us to a very narrow, very steep, very rustic winding road.'
Proceeding at about 30 kph and blowing my horn at every curve, because there seemed to be no room for cars to pass, we safely arrived at a crossroads. To the left, the road continued to climb up the mountain to Axalp. To the right, the road gently descended to a public parking lot. As my wife refused to keep going up, we went down.
Fortunately, there appeared a sign pointing to the Giessbach: Drive through the parking lot to the private road to the hotel. It is a large, turn-of-the-century, resort hotel that has been beautifully restored to its heyday appearance and charm. The signs direct you through the private parking lot up to the reception area.
Actually, that is not quite right. One is supposed to leave the car in the parking lot and proceed on foot to the reception area.
It wasn't very difficult for the staff to extricate our car from the terrace.
#51
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Just to clear up the Megane/Clio confusion... they are different cars. But the new Megane has lost the reverse sloped rear window a la 1966 Mercury and now has a very similar look to the Clio.
But the Megane is the larger and more comfortable car.
Thanks for keeping us entertained Ira!
Rob
But the Megane is the larger and more comfortable car.
Thanks for keeping us entertained Ira!
Rob
#52
try www.giessbach.ch
lovely looking place, Ira. are they suing you for demoishing the reception area?
a very long time ago we visited Mainau, but i don't remeber that long ferry trip you mention. are the gardens still as lovely as they were?
lovely looking place, Ira. are they suing you for demoishing the reception area?
a very long time ago we visited Mainau, but i don't remeber that long ferry trip you mention. are the gardens still as lovely as they were?
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Hi Ann,
If you start at Lindau, the ferry makes several stops along the German coast before Meersburg. That's the long part. It's only 0:20 hr from there to Mainau. The parks and gardens are very beautiful.
........................
Hi Schu,
The Giessbach is a very "romantic" hotel - Fin de siecle styling, waterfall, funicular to the lake, the lake itself. There was at least one wedding each day we were there.
..............................
Thanks for the info, PA
If you start at Lindau, the ferry makes several stops along the German coast before Meersburg. That's the long part. It's only 0:20 hr from there to Mainau. The parks and gardens are very beautiful.
........................
Hi Schu,
The Giessbach is a very "romantic" hotel - Fin de siecle styling, waterfall, funicular to the lake, the lake itself. There was at least one wedding each day we were there.
..............................
Thanks for the info, PA
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It was rather foggy for most of our arrival day, but we managed to while away the hours exploring the hotel and immediate environs.
We had asked for one of the less expensive rooms (Fly cheap, Sleep cheap, Eat well), and so we were installed in the "forest view" section. The reasonably spacious room accommodated two twins made up into a queen-sizeed bed, a table and chairs, armoir, dresser, bedside tables and an ensuite bathroom.
Dinner at the Park Restaurant. You can be casual with a sweater over the shoulders or wear a jacket. The piano player has a good repertoire of older jazz tunes.
Roberta: Salad, Vegetable Ravioli, ice cream - 36E
Ira: Salad Bar, Venison, Nesselrode - 58E
Wine about 40E.
Roberta said that she could have made a dinner out of just the salad. The salad bar was even more sumptuous.
The ravioli were accompanied by various whips, purees and roasted non-protienaceous materials (eg, chestnuts, tofu in puff pastry), all of which received good to excellent ratings. The venison steak, accompanied by various vegetables and a hearty mushroom sauce, was VVG.
The Nesselrode ice cream was accompanied by "vermicelli" and a baked meringue. The vermicelli is an acquired taste.
Overall rating: VG to VG+ (but pricey).
Thursday, Sept 17. Rather overcast, cool.
We made a pilgrimage to Meiringen and the Reichenbach Falls. (Note to Sherlock Holmes Fans: I shall write this up in detail at WelcomeHolmes - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WelcomeHolmes/ ) We also visited the Aareschlucht (http://www.aareschlucht.ch/).
Meiringen, as Baedeker said about another place, has "little to detain the casual visitor" except for a small, very pleasant church, under which lie the remains of several older churches dating back to the 11th-12th C. As these ruins were not discovered until 1015, Holmes and Watson would not have seen them, when they were there.
The Aareschlucht is a rather narrow, very deep defile cut by the Aar river. As the river water flows through it, it is frothed to such an extent that it is white and foamy as it exits. You can walk along the river and look up about 1000 feet. (My Lady Wife said that that was better than being up 1000 feet and looking down.)
Since my LW was still recovering from the effects of yesterday's mountains, I struck a drive up to Rosenlaui (2330 meters) on a road described as "too narrow to turn around", in favor of a drive around the lower elevations. That is when we were clipped by a pair of caravans that didn't quite make it. The first just slapped the driver's side mirror. The second peeled back the left rear quarter panel.
No one was hurt, the police came within an hour and handled things very well, the damage was repairable on site (pretty much), and it was time to prepare for dinner, anyway. Considering the access road to the Giessbach, we decided that the better part of valor was to dine at the hotel.
I made amends to Roberta for the steep, mountainous portions of the trip by cancelling the trek to Kleine Scheidegg and having dinner at the Tapis Rouge Restaurant.
TBC
We had asked for one of the less expensive rooms (Fly cheap, Sleep cheap, Eat well), and so we were installed in the "forest view" section. The reasonably spacious room accommodated two twins made up into a queen-sizeed bed, a table and chairs, armoir, dresser, bedside tables and an ensuite bathroom.
Dinner at the Park Restaurant. You can be casual with a sweater over the shoulders or wear a jacket. The piano player has a good repertoire of older jazz tunes.
Roberta: Salad, Vegetable Ravioli, ice cream - 36E
Ira: Salad Bar, Venison, Nesselrode - 58E
Wine about 40E.
Roberta said that she could have made a dinner out of just the salad. The salad bar was even more sumptuous.
The ravioli were accompanied by various whips, purees and roasted non-protienaceous materials (eg, chestnuts, tofu in puff pastry), all of which received good to excellent ratings. The venison steak, accompanied by various vegetables and a hearty mushroom sauce, was VVG.
The Nesselrode ice cream was accompanied by "vermicelli" and a baked meringue. The vermicelli is an acquired taste.
Overall rating: VG to VG+ (but pricey).
Thursday, Sept 17. Rather overcast, cool.
We made a pilgrimage to Meiringen and the Reichenbach Falls. (Note to Sherlock Holmes Fans: I shall write this up in detail at WelcomeHolmes - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WelcomeHolmes/ ) We also visited the Aareschlucht (http://www.aareschlucht.ch/).
Meiringen, as Baedeker said about another place, has "little to detain the casual visitor" except for a small, very pleasant church, under which lie the remains of several older churches dating back to the 11th-12th C. As these ruins were not discovered until 1015, Holmes and Watson would not have seen them, when they were there.
The Aareschlucht is a rather narrow, very deep defile cut by the Aar river. As the river water flows through it, it is frothed to such an extent that it is white and foamy as it exits. You can walk along the river and look up about 1000 feet. (My Lady Wife said that that was better than being up 1000 feet and looking down.)
Since my LW was still recovering from the effects of yesterday's mountains, I struck a drive up to Rosenlaui (2330 meters) on a road described as "too narrow to turn around", in favor of a drive around the lower elevations. That is when we were clipped by a pair of caravans that didn't quite make it. The first just slapped the driver's side mirror. The second peeled back the left rear quarter panel.
No one was hurt, the police came within an hour and handled things very well, the damage was repairable on site (pretty much), and it was time to prepare for dinner, anyway. Considering the access road to the Giessbach, we decided that the better part of valor was to dine at the hotel.
I made amends to Roberta for the steep, mountainous portions of the trip by cancelling the trek to Kleine Scheidegg and having dinner at the Tapis Rouge Restaurant.
TBC
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Ira,
Really enjoying your report. Too bad about the car's rear panel, but happy for you that no one was injured.
What do you mean "sleep cheap"---I can't find a room in that hotel that is cheap. Also, was your meal charged in Euros or CHF---big dollar difference
Really enjoying your report. Too bad about the car's rear panel, but happy for you that no one was injured.
What do you mean "sleep cheap"---I can't find a room in that hotel that is cheap. Also, was your meal charged in Euros or CHF---big dollar difference
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Wonderful reading so far! More soon please...
Clio's are tough little cars. I bought one 3 years ago for my daughters. They both learned to drive in it and we all became very fond of it.
Unfortunately the dear little car became scrap a couple of weeks ago after a cow suicidally crashed into it and put it beyond economical repair. I too am dealing with the insurance claim.
Clio's are tough little cars. I bought one 3 years ago for my daughters. They both learned to drive in it and we all became very fond of it.
Unfortunately the dear little car became scrap a couple of weeks ago after a cow suicidally crashed into it and put it beyond economical repair. I too am dealing with the insurance claim.