My favourite places in London
Nov 4th, 2013, 07:13 AM
#22
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Following along. I think it's a pretty normal comment from the young girl about St. Pauls. A combination of taking what you see all the time for granted and that unfortunate problem of wanting to "sound cool" for ones friends. Hopefully she will one day appreciate the beauty she has been exposed to.
Nov 4th, 2013, 10:19 AM
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LONDON DAY4
DD and I decide to go to Windsor for the day. We catch the tube to Paddington, and from there we get a 9.15 train to Windsor & Eton via Slough (if I remember correctly £9.90 pp for the train to Windsor). At Slough you have to change trains, its easy, just a walk over the bridge to the next platform. The total trip is +-30 minutes. Reach Windsor&Eton Central station, and the castle is just there when you exit the small shopping mall. Impressive, huge, special. Must have intimidated all enemies that even considered attacking!
Five minute walk to the ticket line and entrance. Tickets £17.75 pp. Service here is excellent, lots of friendly people to point you in the right direction. Audio guide is included in the price. I am a bit lazy to listen to this kind of thing, but this one is informative and not too long.
It is our first blue-sky day, and it is cold enough to need the scarf and gloves and jackets that we have been carting along. What can I say about Windsor Castle that had not been said before? It is a place that you should see, it is very special. The mere fact that the same family had been living here for 900 years ... the history, the tradition, the power and wealth that it symbolises ... mind-blowing. As DD said - it is difficult to believe that something so old can look so good!
It is good to arrive here fairly early. We walzed right in. When we returned from luch, there were queues of people waiting to buy tickets. When we left, I counted maybe 12 tour buses parked. Also: St George's Chapel is closed because it is Sunday.
We start off with the Doll's House, and my 20-year old DD crawls on her knees around it so as not to miss any of the amazing detail. Again we are priviledged to have the room almost to ourselves. A guard tells us that, in summer, people wait half an hour just for a guick glimpse of this pretty world in miniature.
We tour the state rooms (dripping with chandeliers, as Rick Steves says). We do hope the royals have more comfy furniture where they spend most of their days. By noon we are hungry. You can exit the castle, get a 'bracelet', and then return again later. We do this, and find the King and Castle Pub to be warm and cosy. (Walk past Queen Victoria, turn right, the pub will be on your left.) I have a steak and kindney pudding and DD chooses a club sandwich (£15 total). My food is tasty - if you like kidney that is. DD's is a bit dry.
After our return, we just wander around a bit, but it is too cold to stay out long. I take the obligatory pictures of DD with the guard at the gate. A little 4-year old girl skips up to us, dressed in a shimmery long princess-style dress and announces importantly: "One day I am going to marry George!" This is the effect DD has on people, they tell her things.
Returning, we had to wait +-25 minutes at Slough for the train to Paddington. All in all an enjoyable, interesting day - glad we did it!
DD and I decide to go to Windsor for the day. We catch the tube to Paddington, and from there we get a 9.15 train to Windsor & Eton via Slough (if I remember correctly £9.90 pp for the train to Windsor). At Slough you have to change trains, its easy, just a walk over the bridge to the next platform. The total trip is +-30 minutes. Reach Windsor&Eton Central station, and the castle is just there when you exit the small shopping mall. Impressive, huge, special. Must have intimidated all enemies that even considered attacking!
Five minute walk to the ticket line and entrance. Tickets £17.75 pp. Service here is excellent, lots of friendly people to point you in the right direction. Audio guide is included in the price. I am a bit lazy to listen to this kind of thing, but this one is informative and not too long.
It is our first blue-sky day, and it is cold enough to need the scarf and gloves and jackets that we have been carting along. What can I say about Windsor Castle that had not been said before? It is a place that you should see, it is very special. The mere fact that the same family had been living here for 900 years ... the history, the tradition, the power and wealth that it symbolises ... mind-blowing. As DD said - it is difficult to believe that something so old can look so good!
It is good to arrive here fairly early. We walzed right in. When we returned from luch, there were queues of people waiting to buy tickets. When we left, I counted maybe 12 tour buses parked. Also: St George's Chapel is closed because it is Sunday.
We start off with the Doll's House, and my 20-year old DD crawls on her knees around it so as not to miss any of the amazing detail. Again we are priviledged to have the room almost to ourselves. A guard tells us that, in summer, people wait half an hour just for a guick glimpse of this pretty world in miniature.
We tour the state rooms (dripping with chandeliers, as Rick Steves says). We do hope the royals have more comfy furniture where they spend most of their days. By noon we are hungry. You can exit the castle, get a 'bracelet', and then return again later. We do this, and find the King and Castle Pub to be warm and cosy. (Walk past Queen Victoria, turn right, the pub will be on your left.) I have a steak and kindney pudding and DD chooses a club sandwich (£15 total). My food is tasty - if you like kidney that is. DD's is a bit dry.
After our return, we just wander around a bit, but it is too cold to stay out long. I take the obligatory pictures of DD with the guard at the gate. A little 4-year old girl skips up to us, dressed in a shimmery long princess-style dress and announces importantly: "One day I am going to marry George!" This is the effect DD has on people, they tell her things.
Returning, we had to wait +-25 minutes at Slough for the train to Paddington. All in all an enjoyable, interesting day - glad we did it!
Nov 4th, 2013, 12:09 PM
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LONDON DAY 5
Today is the last free day in London, from tomorrow I will be attending the conference I came for. So what to do? Maybe I will regret this later, but I decide to tick off a few important boxes like Westminster Abby.
I find myself in Regent Street early in the morning. Not in my most cynical moments would I dream of calling this a 'shopping mall'. I am (maybe) naive enough to think it stylish, interesting, the architecture even beautiful. I do understand that this is not everybody's taste, and I may not list it under my most favourite places, but I enjoy my brief time here. Just because it is cold, and the coffee shop looks so inviting, I start off by having an american-sized coffee. Nice! I watch two young men share a huge piece of chocolate cake for breakfast.
I browse a bit, and end up at the Fortnum and Mason store in Piccadilly Street. Oh my! The man behind the till looks like a butler. I behave like the tourist that I am, and take a thousand pictures of their Christmas decorations. Earlier this year I have promised myself to buy one pretty wine glass in every new place that I visit. After a long day at work, I can decide whether I want to have my plonk from the Mennagio glass or the glass I bought in Rome. I remember this, and think that Fortnum and Mason would be an excellent place to buy my 'English glass'. After checking the prices, I put the selected glass back reee-ally slowly and veeeery carefully.
The bookstore right next to this palace of good taste, Hatchards (selling books since 1797) steals my heart. This is what a bookshop should look like / sound like / even smell like!
I return to the ordinary world of the tube and exit again at Westminster. The Houses of Parliament were built to impress, and they do. The Abby is as huge and special and touching as expected. (Almost £20 for an entrance fee.) At 12 noon I am outside, sitting in the suddenly warm sun, and listen to Big Ben striking the hour. Unexpectedly I come upon the statue of our beloved Nelson Mandela - how nice to salute him here under the trees of Parliament Square.
I meander slowly down past Whitehall, on my way to the Portrait Gallery. But I am not a very efficient seer of sights. I do not plan all that well, and sometimes I get bored with the next thing on the list. I enter the Portrait Gallery, admire the painting of the two princes, say hallo to Maggie Smith, and then - suddenly - I have had enough for today. I take a slow bus back to Baker Street (I love the London buses). I buy a take-away, pour some wine, eat a slow and restful late lunch, then (again!) crawl under the covers for a brief siesta. Not everybody will applaud this as wise use of precious travel time - I know.
DD is also back early, she had watched the changing of the guards, and loved it so much that she wants to return for more of the same later this week. She has bought a cheap ticket for Phantom of the Opera for tonight. I have to work, so will not go with this time.
Late afternoon I go for a long walk through the streets of London, not going anywhere, just people-watching and feeling the cold, the softness of the late afternoon. This is what I enjoy most: just to 'be' in a new place.
Today is the last free day in London, from tomorrow I will be attending the conference I came for. So what to do? Maybe I will regret this later, but I decide to tick off a few important boxes like Westminster Abby.
I find myself in Regent Street early in the morning. Not in my most cynical moments would I dream of calling this a 'shopping mall'. I am (maybe) naive enough to think it stylish, interesting, the architecture even beautiful. I do understand that this is not everybody's taste, and I may not list it under my most favourite places, but I enjoy my brief time here. Just because it is cold, and the coffee shop looks so inviting, I start off by having an american-sized coffee. Nice! I watch two young men share a huge piece of chocolate cake for breakfast.
I browse a bit, and end up at the Fortnum and Mason store in Piccadilly Street. Oh my! The man behind the till looks like a butler. I behave like the tourist that I am, and take a thousand pictures of their Christmas decorations. Earlier this year I have promised myself to buy one pretty wine glass in every new place that I visit. After a long day at work, I can decide whether I want to have my plonk from the Mennagio glass or the glass I bought in Rome. I remember this, and think that Fortnum and Mason would be an excellent place to buy my 'English glass'. After checking the prices, I put the selected glass back reee-ally slowly and veeeery carefully.
The bookstore right next to this palace of good taste, Hatchards (selling books since 1797) steals my heart. This is what a bookshop should look like / sound like / even smell like!
I return to the ordinary world of the tube and exit again at Westminster. The Houses of Parliament were built to impress, and they do. The Abby is as huge and special and touching as expected. (Almost £20 for an entrance fee.) At 12 noon I am outside, sitting in the suddenly warm sun, and listen to Big Ben striking the hour. Unexpectedly I come upon the statue of our beloved Nelson Mandela - how nice to salute him here under the trees of Parliament Square.
I meander slowly down past Whitehall, on my way to the Portrait Gallery. But I am not a very efficient seer of sights. I do not plan all that well, and sometimes I get bored with the next thing on the list. I enter the Portrait Gallery, admire the painting of the two princes, say hallo to Maggie Smith, and then - suddenly - I have had enough for today. I take a slow bus back to Baker Street (I love the London buses). I buy a take-away, pour some wine, eat a slow and restful late lunch, then (again!) crawl under the covers for a brief siesta. Not everybody will applaud this as wise use of precious travel time - I know.
DD is also back early, she had watched the changing of the guards, and loved it so much that she wants to return for more of the same later this week. She has bought a cheap ticket for Phantom of the Opera for tonight. I have to work, so will not go with this time.
Late afternoon I go for a long walk through the streets of London, not going anywhere, just people-watching and feeling the cold, the softness of the late afternoon. This is what I enjoy most: just to 'be' in a new place.
Nov 4th, 2013, 12:57 PM
#29
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Wonderful report & thank you for doing it.
Re Windsor, we visited in 2010 and were offered a discounted "train + castle" ticket price.
I think it was maybe a 4 or 5 pound discount, at the ticket window.
Perhaps it's no longer on offer.
Re Windsor, we visited in 2010 and were offered a discounted "train + castle" ticket price.
I think it was maybe a 4 or 5 pound discount, at the ticket window.
Perhaps it's no longer on offer.
Nov 4th, 2013, 01:20 PM
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Kovsie, in your first post you mention sorting out cell phones. Did you buy pay-as-you-go phones? If so, would you mind sharing cost etc?
Thank you for sharing so many monetary details- very helpful for budget planning.
Love the bit about the wine glass at F&M
Thank you for sharing so many monetary details- very helpful for budget planning.
Love the bit about the wine glass at F&M
Nov 4th, 2013, 02:21 PM
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Wheyhey Kovsie glad you liked Regent Street! You may remember the naysayers were telling you to avoid it when you first posted on here. I think it is an elegant street with a good atmosphere on Saturdays especially.
Nov 4th, 2013, 03:06 PM
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Enjoying your trip report.
It was good that you were able to breeze into Windsor Castle. When we went it was during summer and we first waited an hour to get past security and then another 20 minutes or so for the doll house. The crowds are definitely there during peak season which impacts the overall enjoyment of the place.
It was good that you were able to breeze into Windsor Castle. When we went it was during summer and we first waited an hour to get past security and then another 20 minutes or so for the doll house. The crowds are definitely there during peak season which impacts the overall enjoyment of the place.
Nov 4th, 2013, 04:09 PM
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Yes, lovely reporting. And useful. I live most of the year in London and it is always interesting to hear what people enjoy about the capital. EG in the past I've discouraged our visitors from Borough Market but based on this TR I'll be more open minded. And of course glad you could see past the commercial aspects of Regent Street to the historic architecture. Finally if your DD was thrilled by the vintage at Camden, I hope she gets a chance to get to the Spitalfields/Brick Lane neighbourhood. This whole area of East London (Hoxton, Shoreditch) is a mecca for young people into fashion, art, music, design, food......
Nov 4th, 2013, 10:50 PM
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About the cell phones: We found a place called '3' not far from the hotel. They have a promotion where you pay £10 for (I think) 300 text messages and 100 min talk time. If you use more you can top it up. They first tried to push the £15 package, with 1000 texts, but I will never use all of that. I was worried about our phones being 'locked' for UK, but it worked just fine. We both have Blackberries. In Dubai somebody explained that we had to create a Blackberry ID, which you can then use on any BB device with any sim. But I do not think it was necessary here.
About Borough market: I think the secret is to be there early. For me it would be unpleasant later when it was a case of 'to elbow or be elbowed' (as another Fodorite said in another context).
Wine glass idea: yes, it gives me joy! DD buys a mug in every place.
About Borough market: I think the secret is to be there early. For me it would be unpleasant later when it was a case of 'to elbow or be elbowed' (as another Fodorite said in another context).
Wine glass idea: yes, it gives me joy! DD buys a mug in every place.
Nov 5th, 2013, 01:24 AM
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Kosvie,
Wow, you really describe being IN London so well. It’s a great feeling. Enjoyed your trip to F & M. Although I am no shopper, I put that on my itinerary last summer. Lovely store but I would so like to have seen it in holiday dress.
Please continue your adventures…
Wow, you really describe being IN London so well. It’s a great feeling. Enjoyed your trip to F & M. Although I am no shopper, I put that on my itinerary last summer. Lovely store but I would so like to have seen it in holiday dress.
Please continue your adventures…
Nov 5th, 2013, 02:50 AM
#38
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>>It has been hotly denied, but many people suspect that the Arizona chap thought that he was buying Tower Bridge. <<
I have an old newspaper miscellany with an interview with him - he said it of himself as a joke, but somehow it stuck as though he meant it. Maybe they weren't expecting someone from Arizona to do self-deprecation.
I have an old newspaper miscellany with an interview with him - he said it of himself as a joke, but somehow it stuck as though he meant it. Maybe they weren't expecting someone from Arizona to do self-deprecation.
Nov 5th, 2013, 07:52 AM
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LONDON DAY 6
Today is the first day of the conference, and I actually look forward to it. I usually find it stimulating and interesting to meet colleagues, and to hear what they are working on. The conference is at the campus of London University near Russell Square, and I take the tube during early morning rush hour. This is a different experience than when you start a bit later. I walk through the softly pouring rain with all the Londoners, and watch how everybody sprouts an umbrella when the rain gets a bit more insistent. I feel like muttering (as my DD often does) "this is not a film set, this is not a film set ...". Black umbrellas everywhere, streets glistening wetly, people rushing, the aroma of coffee and cold air, not one single person wearing a brightly coloured jacket. It is a picture painted in grey and black ... until a red bus comes around the corner.
A quick word about DD and theatre: she went to the box office of Majesty Theatre (I think) late yesterday afternoon, and bought a ticket for Phantom of the Opera for £26 (usual price £65). She says the seat was fine, and she enjoyed the show immensely. Today she went to the theatre for War Horse, and again bought a ticket for £20. We do know about the tkts place, but have not yet tried it.
Today is the first day of the conference, and I actually look forward to it. I usually find it stimulating and interesting to meet colleagues, and to hear what they are working on. The conference is at the campus of London University near Russell Square, and I take the tube during early morning rush hour. This is a different experience than when you start a bit later. I walk through the softly pouring rain with all the Londoners, and watch how everybody sprouts an umbrella when the rain gets a bit more insistent. I feel like muttering (as my DD often does) "this is not a film set, this is not a film set ...". Black umbrellas everywhere, streets glistening wetly, people rushing, the aroma of coffee and cold air, not one single person wearing a brightly coloured jacket. It is a picture painted in grey and black ... until a red bus comes around the corner.
A quick word about DD and theatre: she went to the box office of Majesty Theatre (I think) late yesterday afternoon, and bought a ticket for Phantom of the Opera for £26 (usual price £65). She says the seat was fine, and she enjoyed the show immensely. Today she went to the theatre for War Horse, and again bought a ticket for £20. We do know about the tkts place, but have not yet tried it.
Nov 5th, 2013, 11:05 AM
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I am still facinated by the fact that the previous London Bridge had been sold and rebuilt in Arizona (not Colerado as our talkative Irish driver reported on our drive from Heathrow). As Patrick says, the man knew exactly what he was buying - and it was not Tower Bridge. See this link:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/book...ELBOROUGH.html
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/book...ELBOROUGH.html
