Howard

We fly to Italy on 10/24. After a weekend of business and pleasure in Bologna, we depart Sunday evening for two days in Tuscany (staying at a villa in Trequanda) and two in Umbria (staying at a castle near Assisi). Even before starting my research, I knew that four days would be tease, but that's all the time we have for this trip. After much research, I've narrowed the potential A list destinations to Siena, Voltera and San Gimignano on day 1, ending in SG in the evening; Pienza, Montalcino and Montepulciano on day 2; Orvieto and Deruta (the latter for shopping) on day 3 en route to Assisi; Assisi on day 4. We depart the next day from Florence (where we've been on a previous trip).<BR>Any comments or advice? Yes, we are driving.

Nancy

You have to remember when you are not on the autostrada you are on country roads and some are two lane with slow traffic. I don't think you can make the Volterra, Sienna, SG trip from where you are staying in one day, unless you just stay under an hour in each city. <BR>I suggest you get a little less ambitious or go to the city you really want to see the first and take it from there.

Howard

Nancy, I was afraid of that. Perhaps, we'll do Siena on day 1, ending in San Gimignano, and then do Voltera on day 2. Pienza, Montalcino and Montepulciano may have to wait for another day.<BR>Fortunately, our Italian friends are our traveling companions, so we have a driver who's experienced on its roads. He made the sleeping arrangements and is letting us plan the itinerary.

Wayne

I would skip Volterra and do Pienza and Montalcino on the second day. Just my opinion, having been to all of the villages you named. It isn't that Volterra is less attractive; it's just that San G in the same neighborhood sorta gives you the flavor of the area.

Myriam

In my opinion it's wise to skip Volterra on day 1 and stick to Siena and San Gim. You will however not need a full day in Volterra since it's a rather small town. <BR>If I were you I would certainly do Pienza, Montalcino and that area on day 2 (instead of Volterra). Just my opinion!

Nancy

Howard, we stayed near Volterra last year and took day trips to your same cities. You can go to San G. then take the autostrada to Siena for the one day, keeping in mind you are just touching the cites, maybe to get an idea for another trip. Or you can do Volterra and San G. in one day. Siena and Montalcino in one day. And Pienza and Montepul. in another day.<BR>This is alot of rushing around and alot of driving for each day. Maybe get some input from your Italian friends, too.

Marilyn

Volterra is a bit more removed from everywhere, even San Gim. It has an excellent Etruscan museum. If that interests you, don't skip Volterra. If that does not interest you, you're better off seeing Pienza (but you don't need much time there as it is the smallest of all the towns you listed) and Montalcino. If you are a red wine fan (Brunello), then don't miss Montalcino as it is the center of the Brunello region.<BR><BR>It really depends on what you want to see/do. Orvieto in Umbria is also wonderful and has a fantastic cathedral with the San Brizio chapel filled with astounding murals. Great food, too.

Howard

You are all great....and thanks. You've confirmed out gut feelings that it was too much. Rushing around is not our style. (We spent two weeks in Paris in May and never got to about a third of things we expected to see!)<BR>Based in part on the comments here, our tentative plans now call for spending a good part of the first day in Siena and then on to San Gimignano in the late afternoon or early evening for dinner. Everything I've read about SG emphasizes that that town is best enjoyed after the daytrippers leave!<BR>Day 2 is still a tossup. The Estruscan attraction of Voltera is strong for us! I guess we'll play it by ear between Voltera, Pienza, Montepulciano and Montalcino for that day.<BR>Day 3 should be okay with Orvieto being the main stop en route to Assisi,along with a shopping stop in Deruta. Right?<BR>This is not our usual way of planning our trips, but since time is limited--and the options are so numerous and there's so little time!--we felt we'd had to do more planning this time. As I said in my original posting, we knew that four days in the area would be a big tease!<BR>Again, thanks to the posters. Additional comment welcome!

Marilyn

Day 2 -- You will probably want to skip Volterra. If you look at your map, you'll see that Pienza, Montalcino, and Montepulciano are all fairly close geographically, while Volterra is in the other direction and quite far. Another great stop in that area is Bagno di Vignoni (sp?). <BR><BR>Otherwise, sounds great. Wish I were going right now!!

Melissa

Hi Howard-<BR>You quite ambitious! When are you going to take time to enjoy your trip?<BR>Once you get to Italy, it will cast its magic spell on you, and you will want to sit in a piazza sipping cappucino and basking in the amazing light of Umbria.<BR>In other words, take it down a notch.<BR> <BR>P&gt;S&gt;- I thought Deruta was a dump! Ceramics were cheaper in both Orvieto and San Gimignano

Nancy

If you are into Etruscan, you will enjoy Volterra. The museum and the town itself is interesting. Volterra is not the most popular of the towns, and it is austere, but I think that is part of its charm, it doesnt reach out to you, you have to do the warming up to it.<BR>If I had to skip one of the towns you mentioned, I would skip Pienza. The best thing there is Latte de Luna restaurant. You really should keep Montepulciano on your list, IMHO.

susan

Dear Howard,<BR><BR>I am pleased to add my perspectives. You have helped me on a few trips over the years,including NYC, and hope I can return the favor.<BR><BR>OK, you already know you can't go wrong with any of your choices.<BR><BR>As you have already decided, two cities only on day one. A practical person would go to Sienna and San G. But please consider Sienna and Volterra.<BR><BR>San Gimignano - just too cute for me. I live in Wisconsin - to me, San G borders on the "Wisconsin Dells" of Tuscany. OK, maybe I'm exaggerating a little. But both times I was there, it was overrun with tourists (yes, in the evening as well.) If you do go - please see the Gozzoli frescoes at Sant'Agostino, showing the life of St. Augustine. We had a tour and an explanation by one of the brothers - I believe you can still arrange this by calling ahead.<BR><BR>Volterra - Cadogan calls this town a "medievel Tuscan Wuthering Heights" - and I think they are right. It is very evocative and "authentic". I agree with the comment above - it is rather austere and isolated, which was a big part of the attraction for me. Three years later, and I can still see the views from outside the north and west walls, near the Roman theatre -you are high upon the eroded landscape looking across the flat plain that stretches toward the coast. The Roman ruins are OK (better at Spoletto and Gubbio), but the Volterran city walls, Etruscan arch, and old castle and former prison, now a park with great green space, made for a full half day of interesting walking and exploring. GREAT alabaster here = some of my most treasured souveniers. If you are only going for the Etruscan museum, however, the one in Orvieto is equally good. If you like things that are intriguing, a little off the beaten path, and worth a little extra effort to discover - I'd say you would really enjoy this place.<BR><BR>Siena - The strongest, most evocative memory is sitting at an outdoor table in the late morning sunlight of the Campo, people watching. This piazza has got to be one of the most beautiful in all of Italy. When you've finished at least 2 cappucino's, walk across and see the Palazzo Pubblico, especially the tower, the Sala della Pace, and go to the Loggia for some great views of the surrounding landscape. (Total time there less than an hour.) I spent an hour at the Duomo, but wished I had more time for the Bapistry, which wasn't open when I was there. Most intriguing are the floors, which deserve some time if you can, and the Pinturicchio frescoes.<BR><BR>More on next post.<BR>

Marilyn

Well, Howard, I have to disagree with several previous posters, IMHO of course. First, Nancy, I liked Pienza quite a lot. I thought it was a little gem and I loved the history of how and why the main piazza was built as it was. <BR><BR>Second, Susan, I thought the Etruscan museum in Volterra was worlds better than the one in Orvieto. It’s a much larger collection and far more interesting and varied. And Volterra is one of my favorite Tuscan towns – I do agree with you on that. I love its isolated craggy location and the whole feeling of the place.<BR><BR>Having been to San Gimignano half a dozen times in the past few years, I could happily skip it. It has become terribly overrun with tourists and "cute" shops. But many people love it, and it has some of the best gelato in Italy.

Susan

Howard,<BR><BR>Your four day holiday sounds great to me. I'm guessing that you and companions are planning for a solid day of activities on each of the 4 days, but will remain flexible. So much can depend on your mood, if you'd rather be outside for a day instead of museums/churches, needing some shopping time, a long lunch or a short picnic, the weather, etc. If you are having a great time, I can imagine that despite what you plan, you may only visit one town on some of the days. (We wouldn't all be Fodorites if we didn't think that planning was half the fun.)<BR><BR>Orvieto is fantastic - you can spend a full day there and be happy! The Cathedral is magnificent - outside, inside, it's setting. The Signorelli frescos in the San Brizio chapel are better than a Stan Lee comic book. My best photos of the Cathedral were taken from the windows of the Etruscan museum across the piazza. (Cathedral + museum will take approximately 2 hours.)<BR><BR>Consider stopping to see Civita del Bagnoreggio (I know Rick Steve's has spoiled the secret.) You don't have to take the time to walk the bridge to the town - to me the fascination is looking at the town isolated on it's tufa escarpment within the surrounding area. Any photo taken will qualify as post card perfect.<BR><BR>I just came back from Umbria 2 weeks ago, and agree with the comment above about Deruta. It seemed to be a whole town of "outlet" ceramic stores. And the quality of the ceramic painting was frequently worse than what you'll find in Pottery Barn. (Yes, there are some good places - but you can find a similar variety of artisans in both Orvieto and Assisi, and save the driving.)<BR><BR>A second Umbrian city you may want to consider is Perugia. It's a great city - and lot's to see even if you only give it half a day. If you do consider it, let me know and I can be more specific with suggestions.<BR><BR>Just to tempt you a little more: Gubbio, Todi, Spoletto, Spello. Depending on your interests, Assisi can be seen in a morning and part of an afternoon, with some time left for one of the 4 above.<BR><BR>Have a great trip. Truffles are abundant and cheap this fall. Umbrian wines, especially Montefalco Sagrantino, a great complement to the meats and pastas of the region.<BR><BR>Best, Susan

susan

Hi Marilyn -<BR><BR>Agree about the museums! My thought was if that if the museum was the only reason for the trip to Volterra, perhaps Howard could narrow things down a little. Volterra is fantastic.<BR><BR>I can't explain why Volterra has captured me so completely. It's hard to generalize for others, as each person's travel favorites can be connected to highly personal experiences. But Volterra has stayed in my mind and memories in a way that is much more "instrinsic" than the more typical tourist stops.<BR><BR>Howard, you are indeed fortunate to have such tough choices.

Howard

All of your wonderful and incredibly helpful comments illustrate our original dilemma--so much to see and so little time! <BR>In response to Melissa, believe me, Italy has already cast a spell on us, which is why this is our third trip there since November 1999! And, we have indeed sat in many a square (sipping a variety of liquid refreshments) and just watched the world go by!<BR>(PS: Melissa, your comment about Deruta influenced us to eliminate that town and do our shopping in Orvieto.)<BR>Thanks to all your input, here's our latest thinking (keeping in mind that we are staying about 20 Ks southeast of Siena for 2 nights):<BR>Day 1: To Siena for the day. (Siena has always been at the top of our list for this trip.) If the mood hits us, or whatever, we'll drive to San Gimignano for dinner. (Again, everyone says it's best to go to SG and walk around after the daytrippers leave.) <BR>Day 2: Head south to the Pienza, Montepulciano, Montalcino area (or perhaps a different town or two). Much as we want to go to Voltera, it doesn't seem practical on this trip because of its location. (Of course, we could change our minds and opt to go there instead of the three above-listed towns! That's what travel is all about....flexibility!)<BR>Day 3: Drive to Orvieto for the day, and then on to Assisi where we spend the night.<BR>Day 4: Visit Assisi.<BR>Again, thank you all!<BR>

susan

Dear Howard,<BR><BR>Great decision. A full day in Siena, Orvieto and Assisi will not leave you disappointed, as I'm sure you already know. Agree with your decision on Voltera - given the driving times and locations.<BR><BR>If you do go to San Gimignano for dinner, try to stop and see the Gozzoli frescoes. When we were there 2 years ago, we went at 6 PM, and then had dinner at seven. Probably 30 minutes at the church would be more than enough. (Of course, you would know to call ahead to check on hours, as things often change.)<BR><BR>Orvieto and Assisi both had excellent shopping, whether for local products, wines or crafts. My girlfriends bought all of their ceramics in Orvieto. The only place we liked better for the quality and price was Gubbio. There are a number of artisans in Assisi on the long street near Santa Chiara: block prints, textiles, ceramics, religious objects.<BR><BR>Have you been to Assisi before? Since my last visit, the piazza by the San Francesco basilicas has been rebuilt. We were able to see Saint Francis' crypt, but not the artifacts from his life and teaching. (We saw them last time, so moved along - but definately worth taking the time.) There are also some very interesting robes and artifacts at Santa Chiara.<BR><BR>Buon viaggio. Susan

sally

I agree w/a previous poster who said Deruta is a dump; IMO,we wasted our precious time there. We found very nice ceramics in all of the other towns we visited, so could have skipped it altogether! Would also say do not waste time in Assissi going into most of the shops; the stuff was tacky and the same in each one--spend time in the lovely basilica. I know your time is limited, but Spoleto and charming Spello are well worth a stop! Have a great trip--any time in Italy is a gift!

Howard

Once again, I must thank you all for your great comments. Your opinions and suggestions really helped us refine our plans.<BR>This thread best illustrates how great this forum can be. Someone asks a question. People respond with solid advice and suggestions, sometimes disagreeing but never getting nasty or rude!<BR>If there are any more suggestions, I'm still all eyes!<BR>(You may wonder why I'm not leaning on our Italian friends for more suggestions. If I left it up them, we'd be running, running, running!)<BR>

colleenk

Hi Howard- Having visited all the towns you mentioned last month-I am so envious! I think your revised plan sounds great as Siena deserves a whole day and is so beautiful (especialy the duomo and the view from the Museum del Opera. San G is fun in the evening-the tourist buses have left by then but I too liked Volterra better. I did Pienza, Montalcion and Montepulciano in 1 day and it was a bit rushed but doable. My favorite was Montalcino (fabulous setting and wine) with Pienza coming in last of those three. The views around Montalcino are awesome. Do put Volterra on your itinary next time. The Drive on Rte. 68 was one of the most spectacular of the whole trip and that's saying something! I loved this town and especially the albaster-bought beautiful things in the co-op there and wished I coud have brought back more. Whatever you end up doing you can't go wrong with this area-have fun!