Our Jaunt Through Ireland - A Trip Report
Sep 8th, 2004, 08:28 AM
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Our Jaunt Through Ireland - A Trip Report
We just returned from two weeks in Ireland. First, I want to thank you all for your insight and generosity in helping us plan this trip. It was a wonderful time, everything went off without a hitch, and we had a great time! 
Thank you!
This was a first trip to Ireland for us. We flew into Dublin, stayed 3 nights then on to Cashel (1 night), Kinsale (2 nights), Kenmare (1 night), Dingle (2 nights), Milltown Malbay (1 night), Clifden (3 nights) and Newmarket-on-Fergus (last night). This itinerary worked well for a first trip and while we didn?t get to see everything, we covered a lot of ground!
We loved Dublin and had a great time there but for a second trip, would not go there again, having seen all we wanted to see. Rather, we would fly in and out of Shannon and spend more time in the Kenmare & Killarney area and perhaps a week in Mayo and/or Donegal. And we would rent for a week at a time in each area just because it would be more relaxing for us.
Getting around: we rented from AutoEurope and went with an automatic, one size larger than the smallest vehicle offered which worked well. The smallest seemed SO small to us and we felt more comfortable with the larger one. We used the Michelin websight to map the entire trip and didn't get lost once! A first for us The mileage provided was accurate but their times were always on the conservative side which was really no problem.
Accomodations: We can recommend everywhere we stayed:
In Dublin, we stayed in the Davenport Hotel (www.ocallaghanhotels.com/davenport) just off Merrion Square and Nassau Street by Trinity College. They checked us in at 9:30 a.m. and volunteered an upgrade! Nice, very comfortable, and good location.
In Cashel, we stayed at Legends Guesthouse(www.legendsguesthouse.com) at the base of the Rock right next to the Bru Boru Center. A nice but basic room but with a wonderful view of the Castle. Lovely hostess. Her husband is a chef and the food was fabulous.
In Kinsale, we stayed at The Old Presbytery (www.oldpres.com), located just down from the Desmond Castle. A wonderful room on the third floor with a little sun room plus a balcony with pretty views. Loved this place!
In Kenmare, we were supposed to stay at the Shelbourne House which looked very nice but there was a mixup (they had us for the next night). But they called around and got us into Sea View Farms B&B where we had a big room with a great view of the bay.
In Dingle, we stayed at Heaton?s Guesthouse(www.heatonsdingle.com). We had a room in front with a nice view of the bay. The only hitch here was the tiny size of the room but I think that was miscommunication on my part. The hostess was lovely and the breakfasts among the best we had.
In Milltown Malbay, we stayed at Berry Lodge (www.berrylodge.com) run by Rita Meade who was a delightful hostess. She also runs a restaurant and cooking school there so the breakfast was very good.
In Clifden, we took SiobanP?s advice and stayed at the Abbeyglenn Castle Hotel (www.abbeyglen.ie)and booked a 3 night special rate which included breakfast and dinner. By then, we were more than ready to kick back and stay in once place for 3 nights! We lucked out and they gave us a tower room which was huge and very comfortable.
In Newmarket-on-Fergus near the Shannon Airport, we stayed at Dromoland Castle (www.dromoland.ie). It was absolutely beautiful and luxurious and a great way to end the trip.
Sightseeing:
In Dublin, the hop on/hop off city bus tour is a great way to see the sights. We also enjoyed wandering around the city, taking it all in, and sitting in outdoor cafes people watching. Trinity College and the Book of Kells were highlights as was St. Patrick?s Cathedral. We also did the Trad Music Pub Crawl which was a lot of fun and very informative. A side trip to Powerscourt Gardens was nice but I wish we had done the all day trip to the south.
In Kinsale, Charles Fort is a must. And Budman
, we were able to get into Old Head Golf Links and enjoyed a pint of Guiness on the patio with views of the lighthouse! Beautiful!
The Drombeg Stone Circle was fascinating.
In Dingle, the Slea Head Drive and the trip over Conner Pass, both of which we had beautiful weather for. And again, Budman -- The Shores looked wonderful as we drove by and I can see why you enjoy it so much. Beautiful setting. And one evening after dinner in Dingle, we stumbled on to a fundraising concert put on by 3 local trad musicians in a small lovely old church. Wonderful!
Co. Clare ? the Cliffs of Moher were every bit as dramatic and beautiful as we imagined. We arrived late in the afternoon and there were not huge crowds. Beautiful. The Burren didn?t do a lot for me.
The Connemara region was as beautiful and mystical as Ger said it would be. Ger, we took a couple of your suggested day trips and loved this area. Kylemore Abbey was a favorite.
Restaurant Recommendations:
In Cashel, dinner at the Legends Guesthouse was excellent. We then went next door to the Bru Boru center for a traditional Irish music and dance show and highly recommend this too.
In Kinsale, Man Friday for dinner was the best meal we had during the entire trip; just outstanding. We also had a very good lunch across the street at The Spaniard. Both are in Scilly, a pleasant 10 minute walk from towncenter. Big disappointment was Crackpots. We waited over an hour for our food which was terrible. My scallops were tough and gritty, my husband?s shrimp tasteless. Very poor service.
Dingle: Both The Chart House (dinner) and the Half Door (lunch) were very good. We were disappointed in Doyles which came highly recommended (next door to the Half Door)--poor service and so-so food.
Pubs: we intended to frequent the pubs for the music and overall experience but generally found we tired out long before the music really got going. We did enjoy the Dingle Pub and the hotel pub off the lobby of the Abbeyglen.
Other Highlights:
The many fellow Americans we met along the way. We enjoyed their company so much.
Driving was a hoot at times! The roads were much narrower than we imagined they would be. But overall, we just laughed our way through! The only bad drives for me were from Glengarriff to Kenmare and from Kenmare to Killarney. Beautiful but a bit to mountainous and twisty for my taste!
Didn't bother my husband a bit!
The countryside was breathtaking. Being of Irish descent, growing up hearing the stories, I found it emotional at times just driving through -- it was all just so beautiful.
Seafood chowder, brown bread and a pint of Guiness for lunch almost every day! YUM! My doubting husband thought he would never take to Guiness but after Day 1, he was hooked! The Guiness he brought home last night was a poor substitute to being there!
And most of all, we will remember all the wonderful Irish people we met along the way for their warmth, wit, charm and hospitality.
They made this trip very special.
Thank you!This was a first trip to Ireland for us. We flew into Dublin, stayed 3 nights then on to Cashel (1 night), Kinsale (2 nights), Kenmare (1 night), Dingle (2 nights), Milltown Malbay (1 night), Clifden (3 nights) and Newmarket-on-Fergus (last night). This itinerary worked well for a first trip and while we didn?t get to see everything, we covered a lot of ground!
We loved Dublin and had a great time there but for a second trip, would not go there again, having seen all we wanted to see. Rather, we would fly in and out of Shannon and spend more time in the Kenmare & Killarney area and perhaps a week in Mayo and/or Donegal. And we would rent for a week at a time in each area just because it would be more relaxing for us.
Getting around: we rented from AutoEurope and went with an automatic, one size larger than the smallest vehicle offered which worked well. The smallest seemed SO small to us and we felt more comfortable with the larger one. We used the Michelin websight to map the entire trip and didn't get lost once! A first for us
The mileage provided was accurate but their times were always on the conservative side which was really no problem.Accomodations: We can recommend everywhere we stayed:
In Dublin, we stayed in the Davenport Hotel (www.ocallaghanhotels.com/davenport) just off Merrion Square and Nassau Street by Trinity College. They checked us in at 9:30 a.m. and volunteered an upgrade! Nice, very comfortable, and good location.
In Cashel, we stayed at Legends Guesthouse(www.legendsguesthouse.com) at the base of the Rock right next to the Bru Boru Center. A nice but basic room but with a wonderful view of the Castle. Lovely hostess. Her husband is a chef and the food was fabulous.
In Kinsale, we stayed at The Old Presbytery (www.oldpres.com), located just down from the Desmond Castle. A wonderful room on the third floor with a little sun room plus a balcony with pretty views. Loved this place!
In Kenmare, we were supposed to stay at the Shelbourne House which looked very nice but there was a mixup (they had us for the next night). But they called around and got us into Sea View Farms B&B where we had a big room with a great view of the bay.
In Dingle, we stayed at Heaton?s Guesthouse(www.heatonsdingle.com). We had a room in front with a nice view of the bay. The only hitch here was the tiny size of the room but I think that was miscommunication on my part. The hostess was lovely and the breakfasts among the best we had.
In Milltown Malbay, we stayed at Berry Lodge (www.berrylodge.com) run by Rita Meade who was a delightful hostess. She also runs a restaurant and cooking school there so the breakfast was very good.
In Clifden, we took SiobanP?s advice and stayed at the Abbeyglenn Castle Hotel (www.abbeyglen.ie)and booked a 3 night special rate which included breakfast and dinner. By then, we were more than ready to kick back and stay in once place for 3 nights! We lucked out and they gave us a tower room which was huge and very comfortable.
In Newmarket-on-Fergus near the Shannon Airport, we stayed at Dromoland Castle (www.dromoland.ie). It was absolutely beautiful and luxurious and a great way to end the trip.
Sightseeing:
In Dublin, the hop on/hop off city bus tour is a great way to see the sights. We also enjoyed wandering around the city, taking it all in, and sitting in outdoor cafes people watching. Trinity College and the Book of Kells were highlights as was St. Patrick?s Cathedral. We also did the Trad Music Pub Crawl which was a lot of fun and very informative. A side trip to Powerscourt Gardens was nice but I wish we had done the all day trip to the south.
In Kinsale, Charles Fort is a must. And Budman
, we were able to get into Old Head Golf Links and enjoyed a pint of Guiness on the patio with views of the lighthouse! Beautiful!The Drombeg Stone Circle was fascinating.
In Dingle, the Slea Head Drive and the trip over Conner Pass, both of which we had beautiful weather for. And again, Budman
-- The Shores looked wonderful as we drove by and I can see why you enjoy it so much. Beautiful setting. And one evening after dinner in Dingle, we stumbled on to a fundraising concert put on by 3 local trad musicians in a small lovely old church. Wonderful! Co. Clare ? the Cliffs of Moher were every bit as dramatic and beautiful as we imagined. We arrived late in the afternoon and there were not huge crowds. Beautiful. The Burren didn?t do a lot for me.
The Connemara region was as beautiful and mystical as Ger said it would be. Ger, we took a couple of your suggested day trips and loved this area. Kylemore Abbey was a favorite.
Restaurant Recommendations:
In Cashel, dinner at the Legends Guesthouse was excellent. We then went next door to the Bru Boru center for a traditional Irish music and dance show and highly recommend this too.
In Kinsale, Man Friday for dinner was the best meal we had during the entire trip; just outstanding. We also had a very good lunch across the street at The Spaniard. Both are in Scilly, a pleasant 10 minute walk from towncenter. Big disappointment was Crackpots. We waited over an hour for our food which was terrible. My scallops were tough and gritty, my husband?s shrimp tasteless. Very poor service.
Dingle: Both The Chart House (dinner) and the Half Door (lunch) were very good. We were disappointed in Doyles which came highly recommended (next door to the Half Door)--poor service and so-so food.
Pubs: we intended to frequent the pubs for the music and overall experience but generally found we tired out long before the music really got going. We did enjoy the Dingle Pub and the hotel pub off the lobby of the Abbeyglen.
Other Highlights:
The many fellow Americans we met along the way. We enjoyed their company so much.
Driving was a hoot at times! The roads were much narrower than we imagined they would be. But overall, we just laughed our way through! The only bad drives for me were from Glengarriff to Kenmare and from Kenmare to Killarney. Beautiful but a bit to mountainous and twisty for my taste!
Didn't bother my husband a bit!The countryside was breathtaking. Being of Irish descent, growing up hearing the stories, I found it emotional at times just driving through -- it was all just so beautiful.
Seafood chowder, brown bread and a pint of Guiness for lunch almost every day! YUM! My doubting husband thought he would never take to Guiness but after Day 1, he was hooked! The Guiness he brought home last night was a poor substitute to being there!
And most of all, we will remember all the wonderful Irish people we met along the way for their warmth, wit, charm and hospitality.
They made this trip very special. 
Sep 8th, 2004, 10:10 AM
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Welcome back!! Glad you had a great time, and especially the fact you got onto Old Head for a pint. We missed having lunch at the Half-Door this trip because of our schedules. We always remember their great garlic mussels and brown bread.
Sep 8th, 2004, 10:24 AM
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Budman,thank you again for all your advise! We really debated about trying to do Mizen Head but after a late start from Kinsale to Kenmare, we finally, and very reluctantly, decided to wait until our second trip. Disappointing, yes....but just gives us more to look forward to!
Sep 8th, 2004, 02:17 PM
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Tennischick, thanks for the report, I am so glad you had a great time! I have just about finished making our B&B reservations; we leave in 4 weeks from tomorrow and I am getting all fired up!
We'll be in the Southwest, too. I hope I can get my "speed racer" husband to go a little slower on the way to Killarney from Kenmare. (Thanks for the warning!)
We'll be in the Southwest, too. I hope I can get my "speed racer" husband to go a little slower on the way to Killarney from Kenmare. (Thanks for the warning!)
Sep 8th, 2004, 06:01 PM
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Thank you, Tennischick, for a great trip report! DH and I leave Friday (less than 36 hours but who is counting? ) and will use your guidance for restaurants in Kinsale and your sightseeing recommendations.
Out of curiosity, did you have a favorite place? If you had to choose one "experience" that says Ireland to you... what would it be?
Diane
) and will use your guidance for restaurants in Kinsale and your sightseeing recommendations. Out of curiosity, did you have a favorite place? If you had to choose one "experience" that says Ireland to you... what would it be?
Diane
Sep 9th, 2004, 07:00 AM
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Allisonm - if this is your first trip, you are going to love it! And I really wouldn't worry about your "speed racer" on those roads! They're pretty narrow and it's slower going than here and we found it requires a lot of concentration. But we thought the drivers there were very good and never felt threatened but we took it easy! The Kenmare to Killarney stretch is beautiful but it'll be slow going!
Diane--lucky you!!! You're just hours away!! I don't know if I really have a favorite area. Each stop was beautiful in it's own way and we had a great time every where we went. But we both agreed that we would go back to Co. Kerry. I especially liked Kenmare which was lovely and seemed to offer a lot to see and do in the surrounding area. Also, an American couple we kept running into were on their 6th trip to Ireland and their very favorite area is Donegal (which we didn't get to).
Budman AND Bill (wojazz3) - as we passed The Shores, there was a handsome, young, Greek godlike man standing on YOUR balcony, having his morning coffee and enjoying the view. Which one of you was there then!?!? 
Seriously though, I just spoke to my cousin last night and they've stayed there too and love it! Darn I wish we had had a night there too!
A couple of things I forgot in my trip report--
ATMs - I checked with my bank before we left and sure enough, I could only access my checking account from the ATMs in Ireland. I was so glad for that tip from this forum before we left because I rarely keep much in my checking account so I was able to get it transfered in before we left.
Packing--we packed for about one week. On day 7 or 8, we were in Dingle so we took our laundry to a cleaners (located near the incoming roundabout next to the gas station and highly recommended by our guesthouse hostess) and picked it up that afternoon. Worked like a charm and made for much lighter suitcases to lug around!
If I think of anything else, I'll let you know. And if you have any more questions, I'll be checking in!
Diane--lucky you!!! You're just hours away!! I don't know if I really have a favorite area. Each stop was beautiful in it's own way and we had a great time every where we went. But we both agreed that we would go back to Co. Kerry. I especially liked Kenmare which was lovely and seemed to offer a lot to see and do in the surrounding area. Also, an American couple we kept running into were on their 6th trip to Ireland and their very favorite area is Donegal (which we didn't get to).
Budman
AND Bill (wojazz3) - as we passed The Shores, there was a handsome, young, Greek godlike man standing on YOUR balcony, having his morning coffee and enjoying the view. Which one of you was there then!?!? Seriously though, I just spoke to my cousin last night and they've stayed there too and love it! Darn I wish we had had a night there too!A couple of things I forgot in my trip report--
ATMs - I checked with my bank before we left and sure enough, I could only access my checking account from the ATMs in Ireland. I was so glad for that tip from this forum before we left because I rarely keep much in my checking account so I was able to get it transfered in before we left.
Packing--we packed for about one week. On day 7 or 8, we were in Dingle so we took our laundry to a cleaners (located near the incoming roundabout next to the gas station and highly recommended by our guesthouse hostess) and picked it up that afternoon. Worked like a charm and made for much lighter suitcases to lug around!
If I think of anything else, I'll let you know. And if you have any more questions, I'll be checking in!
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Sep 9th, 2004, 07:14 AM
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Sounds like a lovely trip! I must get an upgrade at the Abbeyglen for giving them so many referrals. The last room I had was fine but not as snazzy as some of the others I am told.
The bar is great fun there at the weekends. We could not get a room there our last weekend away and stayed in town but came up for the hotel bar. The piano and sing songs and jokes were great. We won the worst dancing competition! It was like a kids party.
You fit a lot in well done!
The bar is great fun there at the weekends. We could not get a room there our last weekend away and stayed in town but came up for the hotel bar. The piano and sing songs and jokes were great. We won the worst dancing competition! It was like a kids party.
You fit a lot in well done!
Sep 9th, 2004, 10:02 AM
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Hi Siobhan! Thanks again for all your help! It was a wonderful trip and all your advise what right on the mark!
YES, you must try and get a tower room at Abbeyglen! With all your referrals, they owe you! I don't know how we got it; maybe because we did the 3 night special? But ours on the 2nd floor was just great! And each night, we had a window table for dinner and the food was yummy!
Yours is a truly wonderful country!
YES, you must try and get a tower room at Abbeyglen! With all your referrals, they owe you! I don't know how we got it; maybe because we did the 3 night special? But ours on the 2nd floor was just great! And each night, we had a window table for dinner and the food was yummy!
Yours is a truly wonderful country!
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