Our month in Switzerland
#142
Day 28: Sils Maria
The forecast was for a sunny day, but we did have a mixed bag of sun, cloudy skies (quite moody) and then a bitterly cold, wet and windy turn. Then lovely sunshine again...
Took a one way horse drawn carriage to Fex Valley, to the end stop at the Hotel Fex. We used the Omnibus which has a set timetable and fare was 20 CHF each.
It’s a gentle, peaceful, slow ride through this gorgeous valley, passing farms, a few hamlets, and meadows, river, mountains and glacier ahead.
There are many options for walking and biking, ‘Engadiner’ had suggested the nearby Alp Muot Selvas for lunch, which we will do one day...but this time, we walked the road back (one uphill trail we tried was a bit rough on the knees).
So beautiful.
The clouds leave an ever changing pattern of light on the hills, and it just feels serene. We enjoyed our picnic lunch on a bench in the sun.
We passed through the gorge back to Sils Maria just as the rain came down.
The forecast was for a sunny day, but we did have a mixed bag of sun, cloudy skies (quite moody) and then a bitterly cold, wet and windy turn. Then lovely sunshine again...
Took a one way horse drawn carriage to Fex Valley, to the end stop at the Hotel Fex. We used the Omnibus which has a set timetable and fare was 20 CHF each.
It’s a gentle, peaceful, slow ride through this gorgeous valley, passing farms, a few hamlets, and meadows, river, mountains and glacier ahead.
There are many options for walking and biking, ‘Engadiner’ had suggested the nearby Alp Muot Selvas for lunch, which we will do one day...but this time, we walked the road back (one uphill trail we tried was a bit rough on the knees).
So beautiful.
The clouds leave an ever changing pattern of light on the hills, and it just feels serene. We enjoyed our picnic lunch on a bench in the sun.
We passed through the gorge back to Sils Maria just as the rain came down.
#144
![](https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1290/eae70b1e_8a18_4d43_a29b_505e8291a3d9_d86c4911f86247a5d0f95f06880142f69aad2727.jpeg)
A car free valley
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/0cc55789_35cb_4fdf_a530_d11270570027_964dcd39fda7ebd82b8e1a0969417ff2879048b0.jpeg)
Platte
![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/c91b4dc2_ba96_4e74_abe5_8209ec82302d_d8e2f50ce029bdf425f147d5da03f6d825f579b0.jpeg)
Frescoes in the tiny church
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/230b4497_bb6f_4bde_b615_80d6c9c0af5d_20b9e46d1304e8dff149e717f376b75ba2277041.jpeg)
Church in Crasta
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/cf76e605_2489_47c4_84ef_ca86d1b5b48d_fc1c6700a4e3314539b5a59913a76f1d301f3838.jpeg)
Towards the glacier
![](https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/97102a3b_fa84_4ada_87e3_333750295ec7_30eba5f29578a5c0024cdd10239ec88f93657a41.jpeg)
Car free valley
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/5eb5f5df_9e2c_473c_aff6_8e54e7621e84_a6325147ac3ba00672dacf2124ef05d1c756bc5b.jpeg)
It’s a dog’s life
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/53ee15aa_7d1b_4be2_ace7_bdde514171fc_dbf7707439eec710e39a9d90e60c63b1dd9f8bbb.jpeg)
Easy strolling
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/c99343ad_1e21_404a_bfca_f4161d07fa67_6c007ffc6cf8f4e438e524d63a9ffaea4003508c.jpeg)
Dramatic cliffs
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/4a63a4e3_96fc_4720_ad80_e86cf2b90646_1942ae72508f6148b6a37d93899ab4ad8dd974af.jpeg)
So beautiful
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/779c146e_59b9_4517_adae_0f4624b005cf_815070feb49cb79140d6e76c66a1e8e9100c5c46.jpeg)
Fex Valley
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1316/51bc6291_039e_4b98_9891_1765283e6c19_56a19bbfe65516899c9648430159592aa65ace1c.jpeg)
Fex Valley
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1460/aee243ec_9f3a_472a_9bd2_7d53974c254f_e1cf35e1c7b3ed14eecac667593ff20a6a05e59f.jpeg)
Tiny looking hotel
#145
Join Date: Jan 2003
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One of my favourite places in the world. Btw, the hiking trail from the Furtschellas cable car top station to Hotel Fex goes via that "dramatic cliff" (named "Marmore" - a fantastic viewpoint) on two of your pictures. Looks challenging, but is really easy. We saw and heard marmots each time we hiked that trail.
#148
Forgot to add photos of Sils Maria! This is a small village, tucked between 2 lakes, off the main road between St Moritz and Maloja, so is quiet.
Well served by bus. Has a few restaurants and a Volg grocery store, hotels and apartments, busy with hikers and bikers in summer. Lots of cablecars and hiking trails.
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/2db3edd1_42f8_49d5_bc74_3d440059fb49_3b0db0c1c1fb19ef8e8a9ec6b30d697076d62068.jpeg)
Main Street, Sils Maria
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/1a309877_8d02_424c_bb21_fb36d9530bcd_9f760b1aa36ed86db169c56dde640779339e60a4.jpeg)
Main Street, Sils Maria
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/0dcccbda_4b03_4a58_afef_77b4b104f7fb_d492d2400f8dc606f7d7508c117df1cf6642aee2.jpeg)
My favourite building, the TI is in here
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/55f204a1_4fda_434b_834d_5aa2744bccde_e6cde110129154f1a69f7f6900c265f0b226c30c.jpeg)
Surrounded by mountains
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/7f0ab658_527d_4dbb_bdcf_6cb4cdaa5f80_b9e2eac7a94e55d772027968e72fd5a0830e3966.jpeg)
Main Street, Sils Maria
![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/493a5cba_58ec_4c16_916f_cf4f5294394d_ede3313f3c8d169cfaf64f5cbf16ae73037d6b61.jpeg)
Sils Baselgia
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/f25b39ae_bd68_4a29_9476_33d9d4db870c_f6f7c46271617e3fe7cf0ec99567f7509030832c.jpeg)
Main Street, Sils Maria
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/4f671e14_6011_4141_bd90_fa07941b1b2a_0dc89a15f33db0080cac6492b6f3e8f2e8942ccd.jpeg)
Our apartment in building on left, on right is Nietzsche house
![](https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/54840793_bbb8_411c_ac13_ba71fbd08f0e_46a6e814af332ca108c2182aea382925765e4e9d.jpeg)
Nietzsche house
![](https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/479e6998_73f3_4185_b8a2_015c89ab3ddf_1769bdde61f9a8df53ae42293a8ada61d0b57777.jpeg)
The meadows between Sils Maria and Sils Baselgia
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/c966fb78_0a71_4bba_a4c3_8cdaab96732e_613bd0f773437dde2e006161b3f551c82f87a68e.jpeg)
Surrounded by mountains
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/fb576a7a_d0fe_42e1_bf4f_57fc9d8867c2_bc1680f73231966e5cc4597dcf1f7be11d28dedc.jpeg)
River in Sils
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/8f4f278e_3277_4d2a_a0a3_8818810822cd_5364d0415002eccf8c995c1fb760ec44667b8e74.jpeg)
Sils Maria
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/03ba07c6_7c70_400f_b60d_95bad6d466a4_a2bdf875dcd923ee2a8a545f173b7dfd8c1aa5d7.jpeg)
Road to Sils Maria
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/09985d29_6529_4280_beff_af7321685568_87c45ac7e49654ef46f236cc608454a7fb87f978.jpeg)
Waldhaus hotel, Sils Maria
Well served by bus. Has a few restaurants and a Volg grocery store, hotels and apartments, busy with hikers and bikers in summer. Lots of cablecars and hiking trails.
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/2db3edd1_42f8_49d5_bc74_3d440059fb49_3b0db0c1c1fb19ef8e8a9ec6b30d697076d62068.jpeg)
Main Street, Sils Maria
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/1a309877_8d02_424c_bb21_fb36d9530bcd_9f760b1aa36ed86db169c56dde640779339e60a4.jpeg)
Main Street, Sils Maria
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/0dcccbda_4b03_4a58_afef_77b4b104f7fb_d492d2400f8dc606f7d7508c117df1cf6642aee2.jpeg)
My favourite building, the TI is in here
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/55f204a1_4fda_434b_834d_5aa2744bccde_e6cde110129154f1a69f7f6900c265f0b226c30c.jpeg)
Surrounded by mountains
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/7f0ab658_527d_4dbb_bdcf_6cb4cdaa5f80_b9e2eac7a94e55d772027968e72fd5a0830e3966.jpeg)
Main Street, Sils Maria
![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/493a5cba_58ec_4c16_916f_cf4f5294394d_ede3313f3c8d169cfaf64f5cbf16ae73037d6b61.jpeg)
Sils Baselgia
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/f25b39ae_bd68_4a29_9476_33d9d4db870c_f6f7c46271617e3fe7cf0ec99567f7509030832c.jpeg)
Main Street, Sils Maria
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/4f671e14_6011_4141_bd90_fa07941b1b2a_0dc89a15f33db0080cac6492b6f3e8f2e8942ccd.jpeg)
Our apartment in building on left, on right is Nietzsche house
![](https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/54840793_bbb8_411c_ac13_ba71fbd08f0e_46a6e814af332ca108c2182aea382925765e4e9d.jpeg)
Nietzsche house
![](https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/479e6998_73f3_4185_b8a2_015c89ab3ddf_1769bdde61f9a8df53ae42293a8ada61d0b57777.jpeg)
The meadows between Sils Maria and Sils Baselgia
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/c966fb78_0a71_4bba_a4c3_8cdaab96732e_613bd0f773437dde2e006161b3f551c82f87a68e.jpeg)
Surrounded by mountains
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/fb576a7a_d0fe_42e1_bf4f_57fc9d8867c2_bc1680f73231966e5cc4597dcf1f7be11d28dedc.jpeg)
River in Sils
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/8f4f278e_3277_4d2a_a0a3_8818810822cd_5364d0415002eccf8c995c1fb760ec44667b8e74.jpeg)
Sils Maria
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/03ba07c6_7c70_400f_b60d_95bad6d466a4_a2bdf875dcd923ee2a8a545f173b7dfd8c1aa5d7.jpeg)
Road to Sils Maria
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/09985d29_6529_4280_beff_af7321685568_87c45ac7e49654ef46f236cc608454a7fb87f978.jpeg)
Waldhaus hotel, Sils Maria
#149
Ingo, we nearly did that walk ![Imported](https://www.fodors.com/community/images/smilies/imported/smiley.gif)
Hambagahle, I guess a virtual trip to Sils will have to do for you then. Lake Thun is lovely, though, and we passed through Gunten, it does look very pretty. Enjoy that trip.
Sberg, hope you get to Switzerland, too.
![Imported](https://www.fodors.com/community/images/smilies/imported/smiley.gif)
Hambagahle, I guess a virtual trip to Sils will have to do for you then. Lake Thun is lovely, though, and we passed through Gunten, it does look very pretty. Enjoy that trip.
Sberg, hope you get to Switzerland, too.
#150
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Adelaidean, if you could do me a favour, please? There was an apartment block built across the street from Hotel Edelweiss, where you stay. I haven't seen it (yet) but am afraid it might have been built on the grounds of the small garden right by the river that belongs to Hotel Edelweiss. Could you maybe take a photo of the situation and post it? I would owe you a glass of Bündner Pinot Noir ;-)
#152
Day 29: Sils Maria to Zürich
CHF 34 each (Supersaver Ticket)
Our bus today was 10 minutes late, we only just made the St Moritz train.
Had originally considered stopping in Rapperswil for a wander on the way, but after a month, we were ready to just simplify things and get to Zürich. Happy to wander around the old part of town anyway.
Such a contrast, of course - seemed so noisy and busy. And the designer stores, kind of fascinating, after Sils with its sports stores and local produce (eg cheeses).
We booked the Hotel St Josef in Zürich again, like the location, the breakfast, the rooms. And can get dinner on site.
We have a 12 hour flight ahead, then an 18 hour layover in Singapore, then a 7 hour flight (overnight flight, so no sleep). This is the worst part. A few random shots of Zürich...
CHF 34 each (Supersaver Ticket)
Our bus today was 10 minutes late, we only just made the St Moritz train.
Had originally considered stopping in Rapperswil for a wander on the way, but after a month, we were ready to just simplify things and get to Zürich. Happy to wander around the old part of town anyway.
Such a contrast, of course - seemed so noisy and busy. And the designer stores, kind of fascinating, after Sils with its sports stores and local produce (eg cheeses).
We booked the Hotel St Josef in Zürich again, like the location, the breakfast, the rooms. And can get dinner on site.
We have a 12 hour flight ahead, then an 18 hour layover in Singapore, then a 7 hour flight (overnight flight, so no sleep). This is the worst part. A few random shots of Zürich...
#153
![](https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/70069136_7d31_4147_8d10_c4c10d53e03d_3f41d8673a9f78c9284ff8b2e936823df845e6e7.jpeg)
Upmarket shopping
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/c886529e_f968_490b_8193_588824771686_a0228041ec3e5bd8f0253c4f621f8b1292b8e1bf.jpeg)
Old town
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/d4228c1f_3139_45fd_a4de_12ca82ffd8ff_6253e8ee01133c6ae2fc4ab95b7cdf09b6b0d222.jpeg)
Nice alleys
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/ea20049a_b34f_4e04_8da0_d10880bd245a_0e596d5e773a3a2e535eef9e46e29cac73942d6e.jpeg)
Neumarkt
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/7751bcee_c8e1_442d_9ce1_a7a6e7fb99ee_4915541ea3144bb4ed98b1173d6184a0cff79aff.jpeg)
Nice alleys
![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/592507b8_1830_4697_b217_eec763e68a43_aa484ca9064f31392008180e87ef76e393f094fa.jpeg)
Colourful and creative stores
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/ba358aff_85f4_40e7_baa6_05e8302b0df8_c453dd7a08ac979eb4b7e6dad8f9876b359b46e5.jpeg)
Gracious architecture
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/7d981024_0bbc_4bb1_b61d_85d00b1195b8_82cfc9597a498566e41a3c943ef5d78c0e73f7d1.jpeg)
Impressive storage
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/54362d5f_7193_4b5d_a75a_075effafc425_2efe71ac42d2156e2baabcf2297d60a80a3a3dff.jpeg)
Old town
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/753a5538_22be_4a49_b793_71faa8222c7c_bb52a8cb6feacce0d8a33421aaf45ae3f349381f.jpeg)
Fancy cars outside, fancy people inside
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1754/5b8a54e4_3c9e_46da_82cb_cc5219daa7d1_4cf22625e6febafa0b54d205364338bea29178d8.jpeg)
Shopfronts
#154
This was a very relaxing holiday. No frenetic schedules or a fear of ‘missing anything’. Had a general idea of what we wanted to do, and let the weather and our mood dictate how that flowed. One thing we agreed we would do differently: no 2 night stays. We prefer to ‘settle in’ to a location, find a favourite cafe, get familiar with transport. So, likely just pick 5-7 night stays next time.
Thanks again to all who helped me refine my itinerary, the generosity of strangers is fantastic. Having said that, some of you have also messaged me with even more suggestions, and I feel like I’ve made friends. So grateful![Imported](https://www.fodors.com/community/images/smilies/imported/smiley.gif)
Thanks again to all who helped me refine my itinerary, the generosity of strangers is fantastic. Having said that, some of you have also messaged me with even more suggestions, and I feel like I’ve made friends. So grateful
![Imported](https://www.fodors.com/community/images/smilies/imported/smiley.gif)
#157
Join Date: Mar 2018
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Thanks so much for the great "live" report and wonderful pictures. It brought back such fond memories of my time living in Suisse Romande, travelling about, and being pushed by seniors as they raced up the hiking trails.
#158
Join Date: Nov 2008
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As you know we can't go far from home this summer so Gunten it will be but your photos really made me yearn for Sils Maria. That little river is extremely noisy at night - from my hotel room in the morning I am woken by the clip clopping of horses hooves (on their way to the Val Fex) and that river!! Your apartment was in a great location too. Hope you plan to come back!
#159
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Adelaidean, if you could do me a favour, please? There was an apartment block built across the street from Hotel Edelweiss, where you stay. I haven't seen it (yet) but am afraid it might have been built on the grounds of the small garden right by the river that belongs to Hotel Edelweiss. Could you maybe take a photo of the situation and post it? I would owe you a glass of Bündner Pinot Noir ;-)
#160
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Hambagahle, thank you for this info. Yes, I know there is very little room on the Edelweiss side of the river, just for their small garden, and yet, you never know ... I am happy to know it still exists and the apartment building is on the other side of the river. Thanks again!