alison

Hi, relying on Fodorites to critique this 2-week itinerary. We are well traveled, senior (but fit!) couple. Itinerary not designed to see everything since we didn’t want a road trip – wanted to minimize # of stops. For example, couldn’t include Plitvice (even though Kja and others recommended so highly). Flying from LAX on award tickets May 22 to Split, returning from Dubrovnik June 5.

Our interests are: diverse beauty of Croatia, wandering towns and villages, eating interesting fresh foods, some relaxation – which is why there’s island R&R in the middle. We do not want to pack our days or start out with early mornings. We want some time to ‘smell the coffee’ and the trees! We live near the beach and it’s too cold (for me!) to swim in May, so there’s not really beach/swim time allotted.

I have included Q’s in parentheses. Some days are interchangeable and we don’t have to do everything on this sketch itinerary, but some drivers/private transfers need to be booked in advance.

5 nights Split at Hotel Marul. Arrival evening – walk on Riva and get oriented

Day 1 – walking tour of Diocletian Palace and Jewish sights, plus wandering. Possibly see Mestrovic Gallery.

Day 2 – day trip to Hvar Town by catamaran/ferry, either depart 11 and return 7:15 p.m. or depart 2 p.m. and return 7:15 p.m. (Q: How much time do we need just to wander the town a bit, perhaps climb fortress, get a snack or lunch?)

Day 3 – day trip to Krka NP, visit Sibenik and end up with wine tasting/dinner at Winery Rak. Haven’t decided if private driver or rental car, but probably driver so DH can imbibe at the winery.

Day 4 – Trying to decide private driver or rental car: visit Trogir in mid-day for quick wander, drive to Zadar, possible 6 p.m. walking tour to see the old town and hopefully Sea Organ and Salutation at sunset, dinner, drive home. (Q: Zadar sounds like a lovely “must,” but interested to hear from others. We could do something closer to Split, eg, Solta, that day – or spread out our day trips so that we do Krka NP one day and Trogir/Sibenik the other day – even more relaxing. Or we could cut a day from Split and add one to Brac ;-))

(Q: This is a lot of medieval towns – any chance Split, Hvar Town, Trogir, Sibenik, Zadar all become “same-same?”) – Please comment on this.

Day 5 – mid-morning Ferry from Split to Supetar on Brac Island, 4 nights at Hotel Lemongarden in Sutivan, which looks divine.

Days 6-8 – Relaxation, probably rent car one day to drive around island, go to olive oil tasting, see Zlatni Rat beach, etc.

Day 9 (June 1) – 1030 Ferry to Split, private transfer to Dubrovnik. Probably stop at Ston or Q: other suggestions for routing? Arrive to Old Town Hotel, Dominus Little Palace. (Q: Thoughts on staying in Old Town? This 5-room hotel gets great reviews and seems like more fun to be there than outside the walls, especially since we will have spent so much time along the coast so staying overlooking the beach didn’t sound as appealing. But, OH, the Steps!)

Day 10 – wander Dubrovnik, see the synagogue, War Photo Limited and other sights, maybe take war walking tour. (Q: worth it to take the cable car? We’d like to see the adjacent war museum) Walk city walls late afternoon before dinner.

Day 11 – Possible private tour to Kotor/Montenegro. Concerned about long border crossing times as the secondary border crossing is apparently closed for renovations until 1 July. Also, by this point we may have had it with beautiful medieval old towns? Or be done with long drives? Alternate is to visit Lokrum, Cavtat or Elefati Islands – but may be “islanded” out by this time. Q: Suggestions? Thoughts on going to Kotor with stop in Perast?

Day 12 – Have booked Dubrovnik Food Story countryside visit and cooking class, “Pick. Cook. Eat.” Gets great reviews.

Day 13 – EARLY departure.
So appreciate you taking the time to give your input!

kja

Should be a nice trip!

The Meštrović Gallery is, IMO, well worth seeing – and if you do go, consider making time for the nearby Kastelet, too.

Given the activities you plan for Hvar, your time should be more than sufficient. I didn’t climb to the fortress or dine while in Hvar Town, and thought a few hours enough – but I would hate to say what would work for you! And there were some monasteries in Hvar Town that I’m sure I would have enjoyed if I had more time there….

Day 4 – I’m not sure you need a driver or car – you might be able to go by bus (comfortable and convenient), but you would have to check the schedules and returning after dark might be a challenge. If you do stay in Zadar for dinner, a driver might be best – again, so your DH can imbibe.

IMO, tough call on Zadar. I’m glad I saw it, and found the Sea Organ in particular (the Salutation, too) wonderfully fascinating installations. And I found much to enjoy in Zadar – it has some remarkable churches and a few interesting museums and some very nice streets and plazas. But Split has a wealth of options, and Sibenik has some treasures, and I didn’t even make it to Solta…. No bad choices, IMO, just some very difficult ones. Maybe you can keep at least one of your day trips a bit loose, so you have the flexibility to decide where you want more time.

Trogir is only about ˝ hour from Split by frequent bus; you can see the entire town in a few hours – and it is, IMO, well worth seeing for its exquisite stonework (if nothing else).

I did not run into a same-same problem, but then, I love looking for and savoring the differences between places that some might consider similar, YMMV. Even so, though, I wouldn’t have considered the places you list sufficiently similar to be problematic. Split’s Diocletian Palace and buildings from that day set it apart from anything else you will see, even if it has some decidedly medieval sections. Hvar Town bears a decided Renaissance influence. Trogir’s stonework sets it apart from any of the other towns. Sibenik has a very unusual blend of architectural styles in a setting quite unlike anything else you mention. Zadar mixes ancient Roman through modern and, to my eye, was more like Split than anything else, but without quite the same dynamism and certainly without the magnificence of Split’s cathedral; on the other hand, Zadar’s See Organ sets it aside from everything else, and the Church of St. Donatus is well worth seeing, IMO. I’m very glad I saw them all -- and so am no help at all!

While in Dubrovnik, I stayed in a decidedly quirkly little place with glorious views of the harbor – and without stairs – the Villa Adriatica. Not for everyone and NOT upscale, but I loved it!
Villa Adriatica - private accommodation, apartments and rooms in Dubrovnik, Croatia

Day 11: Your call! Again, I found Kotor different than the other places you will be visiting, but it would (perhaps) blend some of the things you’d already seen – a fair amount of rather typical medieval architecture (more than most places you will see, I think), more Ottoman influence than anything you will see outside of Dubrovnik, a hilltop castle not terribly unlike Hvar Town’s (I think) but walls quite unlike those of Dubrovnik…. If you go, Perast is a stop easily accomplished in an hour or so – pleasant enough, very pretty, beautifully sited – no big deal, I think, to decide en route if you want to stop.

As for the alternatives, I adored Lokrum, where I spent only ˝ day but could have used more – I found it a lovely place to roam. Again, YMMV. I didn’t make it to the Elefati Isands and found nothing to pull me to Cavtat, although obviously many people enjoy it there.

Hope that helps!

kja

No answer?

alison

@kja, as usual, your advice is so good and so welcomed. Especially glad to hear that all these places may not blend and be "same, same."
And so glad you weren't intimidated by the length of my post! I hope others won't be and will chime in with their advice and input.
BTW, it was your original advice about Split offering so much that helped me make the decision to base ourselves there. Glad to hear the Mestrovic Gallery will be worthwhile. (and I'm impressed you have all the accent marks on your computer to type the name correctly!)

I had looked into Villa Adriatica months ago when it was available -- but at this point in our lives my husband wanted something a bit more upscale. I think it would have been great location and compromise! When he's walking all those steps i will remind him.....;-)

Since my original post I am re-thinking a bit:
1) if 4 hours could be enough in Hvar Town, we can consider going on Sunday (more limited catamaran options)
2) re-considering private drivers and may go back to original rental car idea and get an automatic so i can be designated driver if my husband does wine-tasting (alas, I don't enjoy alcohol). I just feel this frees us up to make decisions based on weather and how we are feeling. For example, if it's hot and we're drained after a day at Krka, we may not want to add Sibenik. Or, if we're not in the mood for a long-ish drive, we could skip Zadar. Or, if the weather is rainy we can go to the national park or Hvar on a sunnier day.
3) I think we can wait to decide on Kotor day trip when we are there. We will know more about border waits and we'll know how much we want to have another driving day to another city. There seem to be many companies/drivers for this day trip.

Always love to hear from other Fodorites....and always appreciate kja's advice.

TerryThor

I have loved every single sight, each day wondering how anything could get better but it does! I have not gotten tired of anything but I love castles and city walls and exploring every little alley. Go to Kotor but do NOT take the bus. It made me sick to my stomach and took eleven hours with only two hours actually in Kotor. Take a tour which only costs about $20 more than the bus! I thought this area is gorgeous and if I had more time would have tried to go to some of the other towns in Montenegro. I really wish I could’ve gone to Mostar too.l. I am 60 and traveling on my own and done fine. Tomorrow I’m getting a car but have been here since the 14th to Dubrovnik, Hvar and Split without a car. I’m picking one up tomorrow for the rest of my trip which is country rather than city. The people here are reasonable drivers, nothing like Italy for example. Hvar is nice but unless you’re into clubs and drinking there’s not much to do. I took the bus to Stari Grad on the island which I liked a lot. I think it would be fun to rent a car and drive around the island. If I could replan my trip I would have taken more ferries and hopped place to place that way. I’ve taken two but there are so many Interesting islands. But you can’t do everything! I’ve traveled a lot and have to say Croatia it’s astounding. You’ll love it.

kja

@ TerryThor: Nice to hear that your trip is working out!

Andrew

Bummer about the awful bus trip, Terry! I found driving to Kotor very easy, and having my own wheels allowed me to stop along the way and take pictures at various spots. I really thought the Bay of Kotor and the scenic drive was more the highlight for me than Kotor itself (which was OK but not amazing to me). I spent a night in Kotor, which allowed me more time to do another scenic drive above Kotor, a twisty road through the mountains to the town of Cetinje, with breathtaking views back down on the bay.

I stopped in Perast only briefly but thought it was a charming little town.

fourfortravel

Day 10. We were impressed with the War Photo exhibit and glad it was on our itinerary.

Day 11. For our trip, we rented a car for the day to Kotor and Perast; we like the freedom to set our own schedule. Our trip was early last June and perhaps not at the height of tourism so the (main) border crossing did not take long at all.

More details and impressions (Dubrovnik, Lokrum Island, Kotor, Perast) are in my trip report if you are interested.

A Tale of Two (Walled) Cities

alison

@fourfortravel, i went back to your TR which was very enlightening about Dubrovnik and Kotor. I laughed at your descriptions about taking Croatia Airlines. By coincidence, we are connecting in Vienna from Austrian Airlines to Croatian Airlines bombadier to Split. Hope the aircraft and the airline prove to be okay!
Thank you also for validating our interested in visiting the War Photo museum -- def on the list.
Time will tell if we are "walled-citied-out" by the time we get to Dubrovnik and if we choose to do a day trip to Kotor or spend the day on Lokrum -- fourfortravel's description of Lokrum (and recommendations by others) does make this sound like an alternative.
As of now, we are thinking of a day to wander Durbrovnik (museums, wall, synagogue, possibly war walking tour), and either a day trip to Kotor or spending time closer at some place like Lokrum. And the 3rd day we may do this organized excursion that gets rave reviews: https://www.dubrovnikfoodstory.com/tour/pickcookeat It's expensive, but incorporates a cooking lesson, visit to countryside, home hospitality and dinner! Thoughts?
Still working out our Split details -- still trying to figure out rental car vs. car/driver for our 2 day trips. And we've pretty much settled on a half-day trip to Hvar rather than spending a full day there since we'll just be walking Hvar Town.
As usual, always interested in input from others about my "itinerary critique" or these updated musings.
@TerryThor, hope you continue to enjoy Croatia and environs!
We will be in Croatia one month from today!

TerryThor

Its easy to drive here and I’m on my own. Get the WIFI, not the GPS and use your smartphone. I could also listen to my music which was nice on the long drives. I loved the Stari Grad outside Hvar Town but I’m a swashbuckling romantist and trying to see every old town so that may be overkill. You don’t have to walk around he walls in Dubrovnik but it is a beautiful city to see. It is warm, lush and green now so don’t take too many warm clothes. You might need a light jacket on the coast. Things I wished I had known before I started driving is that you press the button for the ticket on the toll roads. I had forgotten because I have a smart pass in FL. On the way off be sure to get in the correct lane to pay (which I still don’t remember which is which) I love it here. I guess that’s why I’m answering questions. You will have a wonderful time. 🎈

TerryThor

Lokrum is nice if you only have a few hours. Otherwise I’d do a larger island further out.

TerryThor

I couldn’t read your entire email on my phone and reply at the same time. Soooo, one more thing. There is a synagogue in Solit too. I would check the hours ahead of time. I didn’t see it because it was closed and I think many don’t have hours like the churches. Wherever you are on Sunday, see a mass if possible. There are some super Orthodox churches and the masses are nice. I just sit in the back and leave when I want to.

alison

@TerryThor thx for the tips. We have Jewish tour of Split scheduled including the synagogue. Still deciding about rental car vs private driver.

digitcm

Love the information from all travelers. Perhaps you can offer guidance on Two things for 2 week trip to Croatia in early July. I see references below to definitely rent a car but I am unclear about the insurance. Looked at Autoeurope and they offer various insurance plans for a fee, including No Deductible which is most expensive but seems to cover everything. My Visa offers collision but have read that this may be challenging to collect if something does happen. My US insurance Will not cover the rental. Would love some input from other travelers. Will pick up and drop off in Zagreb.

Second question relates to car WiFi instead of GPS. I was told not to take my cell phone as roaming charges would apply and can get quite expensive. Apparently it’s inexpensive to buy phone there to use during trip.. Any thoughts on this? My plan was to take iPad as many places now have WiFi just so we can check emails, make reservations while there, etc.

Thanks so much in advance.
Digit

Andrew

You may have read my comment about my experience with Amex Assurance (the Amex insurance company) not paying my valid claim - or rather, just sitting on it after a minimal attempt to contact the car company. The lesson I learned there is not to accept responsibility for damages when returning the car - let them claim damages and hold my deposit instead, then I would dispute the claim with my credit card company. And that would force the car company to provide documentation about the damages. That documentation is the information I would have needed for a claim. But once I signed responsibility for the damages, the car company lost any incentive to cooperate with the credit card insurance company. And the credit card insurance company has no real incentive (at least Amex Assurance didn't) to follow up with a car company that is ignoring them. That means the insurance company pays out less and has an excuse to ignore my claim.

It could be that if you use an international car company like Sixt or Hertz that they might cooperate better with the credit card insurance companies - but who knows? (I rented with a Croatian company called Oryx, which Amex probably had never heard of.) In the future, I think I will not rely on my credit card for car insurance, though.

In any case, the insurance you're talking about is for damages to the car (collision/comprehensive), not liability insurance, which is automatically included in the cost of the rental anyway. Just consider insurance a cost of the rental, and take the lowest deductible you are comfortable with. Even in my case, I had to pay over $600 USD in damages, but the broker I rented with did include an "excess" policy so I would have been covered for damages over about $1,000 USD anyway. You could also shop around for better car prices (look at EconomyCarRentals or Kemwel) and see if you can get a better total price including insurance on the whole rental.

Are you American? If so, US mobile companies have now reduced the cost significantly of using your phone overseas. Who is your mobile phone company? Verizon and AT&T have $10/day plans. Sprint and T-Mobile give free unlimited 2G roaming data as part of included international roaming plans. Call the company and ask. You do need to have a modern phone that includes the frequencies needed to work well in Europe, however. Depends on the make/model of phone you have.

You can also buy a Croatian SIM card when you get there for cheap data for the phone. But your phone must be unlocked (if paid off, it can be unlocked - request it from the mobile company). And you will lose your old cell number until you put your old SIM card back into the phone - you'll have a Croatian number.

You can use your smart phone as a WiFi hotspot for your iPad if need be - this uses your phone's mobile data.

FYI, GPS itself doesn't require mobile data or service. You can use maps "offline" if you have downloaded them ahead of time, at least in a phone. Google Maps for example has an "offline" mode where you can download an area map ahead of time on WiFi and use the device as a GPS with the device in airplane mode. Try it at home first! The iPad may work that way too but not sure - you'll have to try it. Some WiFi-only tablets do not have a GPS capability.

digitcm

Thank you so much! Yes, I am American. I will try the other auto websites you suggested and will also test our phones for maps. Auto Europe rents A GPS with Croatian maps loaded. I think it’s about $6 per day plus $40 shipping. Just wondering if really needed.

Andrew

Well, if you can use your phones in Croatia with mobile data (either using your carrier's international roaming plan or by buying a SIM), then I'd say you wouldn't need their GPS for sure. (I would urge you to confirm your smart phones can work on European frequencies though - newer/more expensive smart phones generally can.) If you expect not to have mobile service in Croatia, you can still use the offline maps while driving, but you are more limited. E.g. there will be no traffic info, just mapping and directions. Google Maps online has traffic info too and that can be helpful in avoiding traffic tie-ups.

TerryThor

I discovered when I went to Slovenia that the car WIIFI router didn’t work. I also had trouble with my phone and maps. I didn’t drive in Montenegro so I don’t know if the WIFI works there or not. Sometimes the signal goes out too. So be sure to get a regional map from your hotel when driving. It helps a lot. Fortunately the roads are well marked. Be sure to tell the rental company if you’re going out of Croatia. It costs more but I sure as heck wouldn’t violate the contract.

digitcm

Thank you all. I checked various car rentals and booked a compact automatic with Rentalcars.com. Site was easy to navigate and prices were reasonable. They offer a Full Protection policy for about $120 for two week rental, which includes any damage excess, towing, etc, so added that also. We can always cancel or change up to few days before pickup if needed.

Has anyone also purchased personal insurance in case of medical need while traveling? Would appreciate any experiences others have had.