Puglia 2nd wk of October

Old Aug 12th, 2015, 01:19 PM
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Puglia 2nd wk of October

Hi!
I am off to Puglia for the second week of October. We are staying at Masseria Cervarolo near Ostuni. We will have six days in Puglia, not counting travel days. I am figuring the first day we will stay local, so wondering if anyone has suggestions about wine / olive oil / cheese tastings near that area. I am sure I will be pretty knackered so won't want to venture too far off that day. Next day thinking to stay local-ish still, but visit Locorotondo, Alberobello, Cisternino area and dinner maybe in Ostuni? That leaves four days and I am trying to suss out if driving out to Matera for the day is worth it, since it looks like it might be almost two hours each way. Also, since most places close down in the afternoon, if we got there early in the morning would we have enough time to see the sassi? Read that Massafra has great caves too - would that be an option instead of Matera?

I am also interested in heading up to Conversano and Polgnano A Mare. Does anyone think it is feasible to do both in the same day? Also wondering if the Scavi D'Egnazi could be done in the same day or is that pushing it? Want to see many places but at the same time don't want to rush from place to place. I'd rather see fewer places and get more feeling from each than spend most of time rushing around. One other place I would like to see is Castel del Monte. I see that it is open all day, that is good, as also would like to see about a restaurant I heard good things about in Montegrosso if we could get a table.

Then there are a ton of other places that sound lovely. I know we can't do them all, but if anyone has particular favourites or suggestions, they would be much appreciated. There's just so much history to see! I am especially keen on the Norman/ Angevin/ Aragonese time period.
Other places considering: Castellana Grotte, Ginosa, Tavole Palatine, Grottaglie, Mottola, Taranto...

I realise everything is basically closed from 1-4/5pm. Happy with some walks/outdoor things for those times, or if close enough heading back to masseria for a break before the evening.
At that time of year, would it be warm enough for swimming? I am not sure if the pool would still be open at the masseria, have to check. Did look up temps but they are averages, and I know it's hard to predict. That's what makes packing such a nightmare for me, never know what to bring!
Also does anyone know if there are boat tours of Polignano coast during that time of year?
Any suggestions/ideas of places that can be combined together or not suggested perhaps, are most appreciated.
Thank you.
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Old Aug 12th, 2015, 05:12 PM
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"I am trying to suss out if driving out to Matera for the day is worth it ... if we got there early in the morning would we have enough time to see the sassi?"

That obviously depends on what you want to see and experience, but you can walk through the sassi even during the lunch hour. I would think that you should be able to visit at least a few of the cave churches and other interiors either before or after lunch, but no guarantees! OR consider going to Matera DURING the lunch break, which might give you a bit more time to see things. (You'd have to check....)


"if anyone has particular favourites or suggestions"

I thoroughly enjoyed Lecce.

I also enjoyed Trani, which has a beautifully situated cathedral that is, I believe, at least Norman-influenced if not "Norman" per se.


Hope that helps!
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Old Aug 12th, 2015, 10:32 PM
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We stayed at Masseria Cervarolo in early October last year and loved it. We had one fantastic day at the pool swimming and lounging, you can have light snacks and beverages there, it was lovely. Unfortunately it rained a bit the other days so no more pool time for us.

The hotel offers free wine tasting evenings and also cooking classes. We did the wine tasting and it was really good, tasty local wines, a good sommelier and it was fun to meet some other guests.

We enjoyed the olive oil that was on the tables at dinner so the owner organized a tour of that olive oil farm: Masseria Brancati, close to Ostuni. What fun! Very interesting place, fascinating history, entertaining owner and good oil.

We did a day trip to Matera, the drive wasn't bad, we had lunch and then met our tour guide Nadia who gave us a very interesting and informative tour until on into the evening. It was a long day but so worth it. Unlike any place I have been. I am away from home right now but could provide her email on Saturday if that helps. Someone else here may have it.

It is easy to visit Alberobello, Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Cisternino and Ostuni from the Masseria. Maybe not all of those towns in one day!

We did swim in the Adriatic while in Puglia but it was before the Masseria Cervarolo while we were in Lecce. It will depend on the weather this year, last year it was very pleasant and warm while we were there.

We really enjoyed Puglia and I hope you will too.
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Old Aug 12th, 2015, 11:28 PM
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Taranto is not really worth the trip. Pool, maybe.
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Old Aug 13th, 2015, 11:45 AM
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Thank you all for your help.
raincitygirl, that would be brill if you would send me the tour guides email.
I appreciate all the input!
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Old Aug 13th, 2015, 12:18 PM
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Obviously Taranto was not worth the trip for bilboburger, but for me its archeology museum was one of the few very interesting places I saw in Puglia, and if you are interested in Italy's and Europe's realities and recent history, Taranto is an unforgettable eye-opener for its economy, with much food for thought -- and quite delicious food as well. The town itself also happens to be quite pleasant.

However, if you want to stick to a pampering vacation- and I do it all the time myself -- then Taranto would be an outlier for that agenda.
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Old Aug 13th, 2015, 12:52 PM
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Puglia is very dear to me as my family is there. You will enjoy any and all cities you visit. Taranto like other bigger cities has some areas that are less desirable but spending time by the large and small sea, Visiting the Greek ruins and spending time in the historic area is well worth the trip. The Gulf of Taranto is from Ionian Sea where cities like Polignano a mare are on the Adriatic. The trip to Polignano a Mare is a must! Depending on the time of day you like to start out it would be very easy to visit Locortondo and Martina Franca on the same day. Cisternino and Ostuni can be on the same day as well. Alberobello is much more of a tourist area but worth a visit. It will give you a true sense of the trulli. If possible take the time to get off of 172 and see the Valley d'Itria stop in a local coffee bar and enjoy the atmosphere.

Have great trip! You will Love it
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Old Aug 13th, 2015, 01:06 PM
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Thank you sadralist. I love archeology as well and that is why I had thought of Taranto as I read the museum and tours they give there are wonderful. How long would you advise time there - a whole day or would half a day do?
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Old Aug 13th, 2015, 01:10 PM
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Thank you TVIVA for the tips! Much appreciated. I am so looking forward to this trip and cannot wait to be there!
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Old Aug 13th, 2015, 11:21 PM
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Sandra, I like Taranto (but I know I have a love for the gritty), however the various "issues" with the town does not make it a great destination. I think it is the sort of place that needs a fair bit of time to get to know and on this trip a flyby is not going to work. If, on the other hand, you have say time to get to watch the "little sea" for a few hours or dine in one of the back street restaurants in the little island then it can be a very warm friendly place. (just don't breath too deeply or go on the beach)
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Old Aug 17th, 2015, 07:31 AM
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I just reread my post and something I wrote is not very clear. I mentioned visiting Locortondo and Martina franca in one day then wrote you could visit Cisternino and Ostuni on the same day. I meant the two together on the same day not all four in one day. I'm sure whatever you end up doing in Puglia will be incredible! enjoy your trip and let us know your thoughts when you return.
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Old Aug 17th, 2015, 07:40 AM
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temashana, here is Nadia's email (tour of Matera)

[email protected]
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Old Aug 17th, 2015, 08:00 AM
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I am wondering if anyone has been in Oct. and can comment on whether this is a good month to visit or if there would be other times that would be preferable. I am particularly wondering if March/April would be better. Are there times of the year when it is so off season that many things would be closed? Thanks.
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Old Aug 17th, 2015, 08:30 AM
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julies, we were there in early October last year and it was great. The weather was perfect, in fact one day we went swimming in the Adriatic. This could vary from year to year of course.

We didn't find things to be closed and found plenty to do.
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Old Aug 17th, 2015, 08:51 AM
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The real issues are the beach bars and some smaller hotels and masseria but the basic shops etc will be open. We went in May and needed a room in a closed camp site (Mrs B suddenly ill). The guard found us all the stuff we needed and even rustled up an evening meal.

October some masseria closing down and a few hotels around the place very quiet. We looked on a map of possible hotels to the east of Squinzano and found that of the 8 on Google only 2 were still running. I guess Ostuni will still be thriving and Lecce was still open everywhere.
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Old Aug 17th, 2015, 09:15 AM
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We're not into beach bars, so that is no big loss to us. Smaller hotels are what we prefer, so that wouldn't be so good. Thanks all.
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Old Aug 17th, 2015, 09:15 AM
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We're not into beach bars, so that is no big loss to us. Smaller hotels are what we prefer, so that wouldn't be so good. Thanks all.
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Old Aug 18th, 2015, 06:22 AM
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Julies, October is generally a great time to go. There are many smaller hotels open and it is very easy to find a small villa to rent for a short period of time if that interests you. The Masseria is usually family run so they are subject to closing on a whim etc. Finding small well run hotels just outside of the historic centers of Ostuni, Locorotondo, Martina franca, etc. should not be a problem. Even in high tourist season the people of Puglia, unlike other regions in Italy still run their businesses on their own schedule. Don't go expecting to find all restaurants open all day like you would in The US. Business owners still close in the afternoons and open again in the evening, they generally stay open as the flow dictates. Holes will provide a clear understanding of when meals are available etc. Of course weather has a mind of its own but for the most part going in October is an extremely enjoyable time to visit.
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Old Aug 20th, 2015, 10:17 AM
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julies - I am going in October and didn't have an issue booking the Masseria at all. Granted, it's the early part of October. I'm not a big beach person either so not fussed about that, tho I am hoping the pool will be open at the masseria because it looks lovely. I hope you have a wonderful time. I am so excited to go! I'v'e discovered so many things to do that I will definitely need to return!
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Old Aug 20th, 2015, 10:27 AM
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temashana, did you see I put Nadia's email above? (for the Matera tour)

Scroll up to Aug.17th.
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