denisea

Saturday, April 28 2023

The last day. The trips always fly by so quickly.

We had decided to go back to Colbert for breakfast and so that we did (again, definitely with a reservation). The sun was out (always when you are leaving). We didn’t have a plan for the day but I have learned that Starbucks prefers to stay close to home and wants packing time on the last day. At one point, we considered heading to The Mall and maybe St James park - somehow we hadn’t gotten there at all on this trip.

I sent my family on in to Colbert and I decided to hang back and snap a few photos of Sloane Square while it was sunny and empty. Well, almost empty. As I started taking pictures of the little park and the fountain I saw a guy doing something at the fountain. At first, I thought he was gonna pee in it. Then, he essentially moved into high plank position–IN the fountain (which I had to take a photo of). I believe he was positioning himself to rinse his hair (pretty smart). So this was the most unusual sight of the trip for me.

Pictures taken, I headed into Colbert to join my exhausted travel partners. At first, the server brought out a much smaller pot of coffee than we had been getting and we let him know it would be better for him to just go ahead and bring a much larger one to save trips for him. We could sense a different kitchen crew on Saturday as I got the scrambled eggs with Comte and chives again - but it was nowhere as good as the previous time. The eggs were not velvety like before.Maybe Greenspeares would have been a better option but whatever. Because the sun was out, we ultimately decided to hang out around Sloane Square. There is a small market on Saturday’s at Duke of York square and so many spots to be outside in the Square and Pavillion Road. I thought we might walk to Chelsea Physic Garden and my sister wanted to shop for a little little Union Jack kerchief for her pup.

But first, we couldn’t resist running over to Pavilion Road and selecting a 2nd breakfast goodie from Ottolenghi (and of course, they needed another coffee). So, we essentially had dessert outside and watched Pavilion Road start coming to life. Given the sunny weather, it would be backed with basking British all day. Basking was the theme of the day.

We split up and agreed to meet back at Sloane Square at 11am. Sis- off dog boutique shopping. Me and Starbucks walking to Chelsea Physic Garden. Worth the walk as I was treated to some spectacular wisteria exploding across several home fronts as we explored the neighborhoods near CPG. Here’s another time that I should have taken a moment to check out some details because CPG doesn’t open until 11am Oops. We walked along the Thames for a bit and headed back to Sloane Square to meet up. It was a perfect day to sit at one the restaurants in the Square for some wine and so that’s what we did. I got a glass of Vinho Verde that could have been better but the setting made up for it. All of the spots were filling up as everyone wanted to sit in the sun.

Lots of King Charles Coronation decorations everywhere…and lots of merchandise (biscuits, tea towels).

After a sufficient amount of basking, we headed back to the apartment for packing and naps. And I had some scuff marks to remove from the apartment staircase walls from the luggage which thankfully came out. I took great pleasure at tossing the offending shoes from the Richmond debacle in the trash.

We had a reservation back at Builders Arms at 6pm for an early dinner. As the troops rallied post packing and post naps, we decided to head out early for some drinks before walking to Builders Arms. We walked over to Walton Cafe and just when we thought we wouldn’t get a table outside, one came open. We ordered an Italian sparkling Rose and split a pinsa as an appetizer and enjoyed our last hours outside in the sunshine. We probably should have taken a taxi to Builders as the walk in direct sun got a little hot and I think my sister was over it by the time we got to Builders. It was nice to walk past the V&A and Natural History museum (kind can’t believe we didn’t go there at all even though it was so close).

I got us drinks (A citrus spritz, London pride beer and a glass of Sancerre) and ordered our food (a steak/chips; Chicken, Smoked Ham Hock & Leek Pie/chips and a soft shell crab)

Anyway, dinner was good even though the pub was a little warm inside. I think we were mostly tired so it was an early night. It took awhile to get an Uber and never saw an available cab on Gloucester Road. We all dispersed to finish packing and I started working gathering our trash and getting the apartment “checkout to do” list completed.

And then I remembered that we needed cash to pay the driver in the AM. Of course, I didn’t have enough. I headed to Brompton Road and found that not a single ATM was “open”. Dang. I am guessing this is potentially to help ensure you don’t get robbed (maybe)? It can’t be that all of these ATMs were out of order…I went to 5 different ATMs both outside banks and outside a Sainsbury (or other market) and none were operational. I’d have to work it out in the AM. Our plan for Sunday was to walk to the corner and have a quick breakfast at 9am at Greenspeares (one last time) and we could watch for the driver at 10am and we’d have our bags in the entryway ready to go - even if I wasn't ready to go.

macdogmom

Interesting about the need for cash…I was going to get some cash at Heathrow when we landed but both atm’s were not working. We ended up taking a cab and used a card and then everywhere we have gone since then have taken apple pay or CC. Some places have even said no cash only credit card. So we may leave tomorrow for Paris and skip the atm all together. Fine with me, I only use cash at home at the farmers market once a week.

nyse

Interesting ~ we were in Belfast and actually some taxi drivers were refusing to take ‘card fares.’ More than once we advanced in line because we had cash. But everywhere other than taxis welcomed ApplePay or cards.

macdogmom

Yes, I’m hoping Paris is Apple Pay friendly. I use my apple watch and hardly ever carry a purse at home. Just need to get my license in digital form!

denisea

To clarify—we use a prearranged car service to/from LHR and they have always asked that we pay in cash. i don’t mind as I will get cash at the airport anyway when we arrive. I just didn’t get enough to pay both ways. I feel sure if we asked to pay by card, PayPal or other modern payment method, it could probably be arranged.

denisea

Colbert

Colbert bar

Ottolenghi window

Ottolenghi






The entry to Duke of York Square




Chelsea wisteria


Wisteria explosion





Thames







Summer at Sloane

Loved this bldg near the apartment and wished there was still a restaurant open there

Bubbly at Walton Cafe





Builders Arms

Chicken pie at BA

Soft shell crab

Steak and chips

denisea

The guy in the fountain!

KarenWoo

Love all your photos, especially the man in the fountain!!! Hilarious!

TPAYT

I have enjoyed being in London with you along with my morning coffee. Your detailed report has me taking notes for my next visit.
Your photos take me along to the places you describe so well.
And the guy in the fountain ends your journey with a bang!
Travel on!

denisea

Sunday, April 30 2023

The time had come to return home. We are currently without pups so no excitement about at least seeing the doggos when we walk in the door (just the fun of watching that credit card bill come in from the trip and dirty laundry to unpack). Sigh.

I always wake up early and so had lots of time to get dressed, check the apartment for anything we might have missed in packing, gather trash, start the dishwasher, etc…I figured I try Sloane Square for an ATM to get cash so we wouldn’t have to ask the driver to stop on the way to LHR. It was looking like another nice day in London and no one was out (not even the guy from the fountain the previous day). I was able to get cash this time (although the first ATM indicated it was out of service…fortunately there were 2 side by side and the other one was in service). The bags were in the entry hall and ready to go.

We stepped into Greenspeares and our tall blonde server wasn’t working but we still got great service. My sis got her fav eggs benedict one more time. I got the smashed avocado toast, a flat white and their fresh apple juice. I was a little bummed that there were no croissants or pain au chocolat that morning but it’s not like I haven’t eaten everything in sight on this trip. As we were finishing up, the pastry delivery was made and so I got that pain au chocolat after all. Great finishing meal and if you are ever in that part of London..I highly recommend Greenspeares.

Our driver Ricky was right on time and we loaded up our bags, left the keys on the table and closed the door on our apartment for the last time. (Always nerve wracking to close the door with the keys inside).

The great thing about heading to the airport on Sunday AM - no traffic to worry about. We pulled up at the Virgin Atlanta/Delta One wing and gave our flight info/names and they opened the gate to let our driver drop us off. Not gonna lie, the check in process here is so nice and hassle free. Before the car is in park, the staff is out there getting your bags and ushering you inside. No line, bags checked and boarding pass printed and on to security. Didn’t take long even with some slight snafu with my sister’s bag (can’t remember what the infraction was but the guy was nice about it). No time at all.

On to the Virgin clubhouse to hang out while waiting for the flight. I read and my sister decided to look for a last souvenir at the airport. We didn’t order food but I eventually decided I’d get a glass of Champagne and I tried to drink as much water as I could while there. The time actually went pretty quickly and well before we expected the gate was open. We made our way to the gate and waited there a short time before the actual boarding started. More Champs during boarding and a bit more during lunch on the plane (I was in denial).

Flight home was not bad and I watched Bridget Jones Diary (for probably the 50th time) to get a glimpse of London and Snowshill again. (Again, in denial). Next, I decided to finally watch Into The Wild. Very old movie but I read the book about a year ago and this was a good time to catch the movie. Last movie, Pride and Prejudice. I love Matthew McFadyen in Succession and love to see the contrast of Tom Wambsgans vs Mr Darcy. The arrival snack was an afternoon tea which both Chaz and I regretted after we landed. Our expectations weren’t that high for the “tea”. We knew we weren’t at Claridge's. I think the scone & clotted cream acted like a lead weight in our stomach. I don’t recall what the other option was but we should have chosen it.

We must have landed at an E Concourse gate because the walk to passport control was crazy long. Atlanta has 2 international concourses for International flights E & F and all the “action” post-landing happens in F. It is a bit of a hike and I feel bad for those with any mobility issues because you don’t think the walk will be soooo looong. My sister had a connecting flight and that sends you a different way so we said goodbye to her and carried on. We have Global Entry and it makes everything so quick these days. Just scan your face, walk over to the Global Entry border control agent and you are done. Luggage came pretty quickly and waiting for a taxi to get home was the longest part (should have hired a car but just had tons on my plate before we left and I just didn’t get to it). And about 45-50 minutes later we were home.

Summary:

The Cotswolds and Windsor Castle ended up being our favorites. I expected to love The Cotswolds and we did. It was a packed day but full of fun and exactly what we had hoped for. I wasn’t sure about Windsor and Windsor Castle. It turned out better than I expected. The immediate area in front of the castle and around the central station are the types of areas that I can’t wait to get away from (hordes of people and trinket shops-I am sure in summer it could be gridlock). But the overall experience was great. I do wish we had maybe we had spent some time on The Long Walk and/or Windsor Great park but we planned for this to be a half day. Maybe we would have planned differently if we had known that our Saturday in Mayfair would't turn out quite the way we wanted.

The Cotswolds was certainly full of Rings with all the Lord of the Rings references and even the King’s men stone circle/ring. The Doors of Durin and The Prancing Pony from The Fellowship of the Ring.

Everywhere we went there were King Charles III coronation references and decor (and merchandise). Cambridge (Henry VI, Henry VIII) and Windsor (built by William the Conqueror) / St George’s Chapel (buried there are Edward IV, Henry VI, Henry VIII Charles I, Edward VII and George V) are full of King’s and their legacies.

Westminster Abbey has too many Kings to list with all the coronations and burials. I never get tired of this spectacular and historical place. I am glad we squeezed it in on our first full day and didn’t miss it. The Galleries were worth the extra 5 pounds and time.

London was full of English Spring things…daffodils, tulips, flowering cherry trees, wisteria, camellias, azaleas and lambs. It’s beautiful and just accepting that the weather will be what it will be allows you to enjoy it rain or shine.

Most of the trip went without a hitch. Things we could have done better: Richmond and Cambridge but we still enjoyed Cambridge (just don’t go on graduation day). Richmond should have been a great day but the lack of planning and working around the Petersham nursery lunch reservation worked against us. All planning/prep issues on my part.

I liked staying in a different part of London and enjoyed Belgravia and Sloane Square a lot. It’s hard to say if I liked it better than Kensington. Both areas were quiet which I really look for and felt safe. I like the apartment (except the difficult climb over the tub to get out of the shower and the bathroom pocket door that didn’t fully close). I think getting to a tube station and grocery store was a little quicker in Kensington but not a huge difference.

We never get to everything and there are some things that I am just not that interested in. I’ve never been to Buckingham Palace and just not that interested (same with the Eiffel Tower). I’ve been in the London Eye once and wouldn’t do it again. It was fine but not that great (to me).

I still haven’t made it to a Thames Clipper trip and would like to see everything from the water (same with the Seine). While I at least walked past St Paul’s this trip, I still haven’t made it inside. Maybe next time. I really would like to work my way through all the Champagne bar options at Harrods one day. I thought we might make it to Hampstead this trip and would like to go on another trip. I still haven’t been inside The Shard, The Gherkin, Sky Garden or The Ritz. I still haven’t been anywhere for High Tea. Still no Mighty Thali from Tandoor Chop House. And on it goes…there will still be lots of reasons to get back to London.

We did no high end shopping for clothes, shoes or jewelry. I walked past Kiki McDonough multiple times and never went inside (same with a nearby Chanel boutique). I got a Rolling Stones tee shirt, a Cambridge tee shirt and sweatshirt; perfume, some chocolate, biscuits, and cheese straws. That’s it.

The new things we loved….Greenspeares, Wilton Arms, Colbert and The Buttery! I think breakfast has taken over dinner in terms of importance.

I now know I love Pinsa! It was great to go back to favorites from last trip --Heddon Street Kitchen, Builders Arms and Anglesea Arms.

My favorite new and unlooked for thing was the Bollinger Champagne Bar and the oyster experience as a bonus. Great way to spend time on a rainy Sunday afternoon. I know my sister really loved that.

We had a great time. We walked A LOT! Lots of days with well over 25K steps. I hope our next trip to London will be at Christmas. That is the trip that the COVID Grinch canceled back in 2020 and I really want to see London dressed up at Christmas.

I am not sure where the next trip will be and It won’t be this year. After losing one doggo the first summer of COVID and the second of the two last July, we’re getting two new puppies in early July. We’ll be busy with them and I am in a new job that’s getting busy. Where? I have been wanting to go back to Italy and Ireland. We both have gotten interested in Norway and a number of places in Canada. We are running out of time and money to get everywhere we want to go (unless we win the lottery and live to 100 but we aren’t counting on that)!

Thanks to all who have followed along and also those who answered some of my pre-trip questions. I appreciate it.

SusanP

Wonderful report! I've been taking some notes, since my cousin and I hope to get to England next year. Thanks for all the details!

stokebailey

Beautiful photos. The wisteria! And I would love some of that pub chicken pie.

​​​​ We were in town at the same time, might have wondered past each other here and there. I love seeing your take on everything.

KarenWoo

I really enjoyed your report and photos! We hope to re-visit England in the next couple of years. We are leaving for Scotland in a few weeks. Haven't been to London since the 1970's! Understand exactly what you are saying about so many places to go and not enough time, especially since we are in our 70's. Hoping to go to Australia and New Zealand next year, and would like to visit a South American country, perhaps Argentina. And definitely want to return to Italy since we haven't been since the 70's. The list is endless!

Is Chelsea a convenient location for someone who hasn't been to London in decades and will want to visit some typical tourist sites? Such as Tower of London, Trafalgar Square, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, and the British Museum.

denisea

stokebailey- maybe we did cross paths! Raincitygirl was there at the first part of the trip.

I feel sure I am not the most qualified to answer on proximity to some of the more central tourist areas. The area worked for us because we were right in between the Knightsbridge tube station (Piccadilly line) and Sloane Square station (Circle, District lines). To Buckingham Palace I think it’s 2 stops on the Piccadilly line to Green Park. Trafalgar Square would requite a change on either line to get to Charing Cross but not a problem. Tower of London would be Sloane Square to Tower Hill—no change -on the Circle/Distrct line. Westminster is also on the Circle/District line- 3 stops from Sloane Square.

I feel sure you could stay more centrally. I think it depends on your tolerance for the tube and any stair climbing. If you want to walk straight to most attractions you may want to stay around St James, Westminster etc (I am the worst person to ask). If you aren’t between Knightsbridge and Sloane Square stations—particularly closer to the river it might be less convenient (although you can pickup the Thames Clipper at Chelsea Harbor pier to get to some of the sites.

hopefully someone far more knowledgeable than I will jump in —-janisj comes to mind but I am sure there are many with stronger logistical info than I have!

janisj

Re Chelsea . . . for convenience, specific location really matters. Most of Chelsea isn't served by the Underground. Near Sloane Square is great but west and SW of there it becomes a Tube desert. Not a huge problem if you are happy using buses. But to have nearby tube stations you'd want to be in the bits of Chelsea around Sloane Sq or west of there near-ish South Kensington station.

Weekender

Denisea,

Congrats on the puppies. You must be beyond excited…

denisea

we are! He has never had a puppy so…he’ll have no idea what hit him.

macdogmom

We’ve just finished up 3 days in London and stayed in the Convent Garden area. This trip was more about going back to some of our favorite restaurants and adjusting to time change for my husband's work week in Paris, so we didn’t do much touristy stuff. Saw an amazing David Hockney show in King’s Cross area and I walked to Liberty’s and all through Regent street shopping and through Chinatown. The British museum was about 10-15 minutes away and Westminister Abbey probably a 20 minute walk. You’re right next to theatre district and a pretty easy walk down to the Thames and Globe Theatre, London eye and Tate Modern. I do love the Victoria and Albert museum in Kensington but didn’t get to it this trip. We stayed in Kensington many years ago but I now prefer something a bit more central.

janisj

How was it -- I assume (hope) really terrific?? I'm doing a lightning visit arriving Thursday, a couple of days at Sissinghurst, but mostly for the David Hockney on Monday and Chelsea Flower Show on Tuesday, fly home on Wed next.

janisj

denisea: I've walked by Colbert countless times but never ate there -- staying about a 5 min walk away next week. I also like The Botanist across the street from Colbert. I see some great breakfasts in my future.