Rome, Florence, Venice trip report
Oct 21st, 2005, 12:27 PM
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Rome, Florence, Venice trip report
First, thanks to all who helped me plan this trip. It was wonderful! Hope that this report is as helpful as all of yours were to me.
We are five women leaving for a two week trip to Italy. Our group includes my two nieces, my aunt and her daughter (my cousin) and myself, three generations of family, ranging in age from a young 74 to a mature almost 19. It is a first trip abroad for the three youngest, a second trip for the eldest and the latest of several for me.
I have planned to bring the nieces to Italy for several years. I loved taking my sons when they were this age and I wanted the girls to have the same experience. My aunt and cousin decided last summer to join us, mostly because they wanted to go but were reluctant to go alone. Over the past year, as I made plans and reservations, I repeatedly asked for suggestions and input, but was reassured “You are the expert; you decide.” I am afraid this will come back to haunt me later.
Sunday June 5: Depart Boston 6:45 pm Terminal E, Lufthansa.
After last minute pictures and hugs, we proceed to the airline desk and find that Cousin has no ticket (electronic or otherwise). On Friday, June 3rd, my (former) travel agent changed the spelling of her first name on the e-ticket to correspond with her passport (something he had said was “all set” in March) and it cancelled everything. Thank goodness, a very sympathetic supervisor saw the error and re-ticketed her. We are traumatized, but ready to go.
Lufthansa is a great airline, very efficient, okay seating in economy, liberal libations and decent food.
Monday June 6: Arrive Rome 10:55 am.
Hotel Santa Maria in Trastevere sent Luigi with a van to pick us up. It is a godsend to have a driver waiting after a long flight.
The hotel is in a beautiful setting – all the rooms open out to a garden filled with orange trees, flowers and bistro tables for relaxing. Breakfast and complimentary cocktail hour food was delicious and the staff was both gracious and helpful. The 10% discount for paying cash allowed us to enjoy a very nice hotel at a more reasonable price. Free internet in the breakfast room was a great way to keep in touch with home. Air conditioning was more than adequate and very welcome after a hot day of site seeing.
Our tallest person in the triple suite was 5’ 6” which was very fortunate because the ceiling in the upstairs room is quite low and the shower head is positioned at about 5’7”. It would be wise to choose another room if you are taller. I think all the rooms with bathrooms on the ground floor were of normal height.
The only possible negative, though it was not for us, was that the location in Trastevere led us to take taxis into the major sites – we had early reservations each morning. Taxis for the five of us cost about the same as five bus tickets and were a lot more convenient. Niece 21 specialized in running up to taxis and inquiring “cinque?” with mostly positive results – it helps to have a cute young woman with you for this purpose. Niece 19 was our navigator – she could read any map (didn’t need reading glasses like the rest of us), find any destination and always got us back to the hotel, even in the dark.
We spent the first day exploring Trastevere and recovering from the flight over - had dinner at a restaurant close to and recommended by the hotel where they poured complimentary prosecco while we tried to figure out what we were hungry for at what felt like 2 am. The appetizer buffet and grilled meat were great.
Tuesday June 7:
We had trouble finding a cab for five at 8:15 am (rush hour), but once we split up into two cabs, they were all willing to take us to the Vatican. It was a particularly wild ride with scooters weaving in and out of traffic (makes commuting into Boston seem almost boring) and the two cab drivers yelling at each other out the window, trying to figure out where to drop us off. We held our breath and arrived at the Vatican just in time. A very cute Swiss Guard helped us find the Excavation Office quickly.
9:15 am, Scavi Tour (Excavations under the Vatican). We all thought that this was wonderful. I highly recommend it if you can get a reservation. They only allow 120 people per day to go through so as not to damage the ruins. I started conversing with the Scavi office in October and got our reservation in March. Bring water and wear comfortable shoes.
We barely had time for a quick lunch and drink before our next tour:
12:15 Icon Tour of the Vatican and St. Peter’s with Douglas. This was a great tour with a very enthusiastic guide. I think it was supposed to be a 2.5 hour tour and he stayed with us until 4:45pm. It was so informative that the time flew by.
The two youngest of our group, Niece 19 and Niece 21, were blown away by the Vatican. They loved the great mix of things to see from the ancient to the contemporary…. But their feet hurt and they are exhausted. And we’ve only done one day…uh oh. I think that scheduling two tours close together with only a small break was not so wise.
Back to the hotel for wine and naps before dinner in Trastevere
Wednesday June 8:
We are much better at getting a cab this morning. First of all, we started earlier, 8 am, and also we have figured out which cabs will take five passengers.
9 am Borghese Museum. I last saw the Borghese when it was being renovated in 1996 and very little was open to the public. We used the audio tours which were great. I love the sculpture and the building, but even though the sculpture was fabulous, I see “art fatigue” in the eyes of Cousin and Nieces.
11am. Time for shopping. We walked through the Borghese Gardens to the Spanish Steps, surprisingly easy with the help of a very nice man who directed us (practically led us) to the underground walkway. The policeman we asked using our best Italian evidently had never heard of the Spanish Steps! We bought beautiful, colorful gloves from Sergio di Cori, Piazza di Spagna, and Cousin and Nieces found cute tops at Blue Sand. So much fun!!
We decide to stop for a cool, refreshing drink and notice people drinking something bright red with an orange slice in it. Before most of us returned from the ladies’ room, Cousin orders them all around. We find that the beautiful red drink tastes like bitter rubbing alcohol. The drink is Compari and the waiter helpfully tells us (after the fact) that most people drink it diluted with soda water. So we order soda water, Sprite, still water – nothing makes it drinkable. At least, we have some funny pictures…
4:00 pm Ancient Rome Tour with Icon - Another great tour. Our guide was informative and very pleasant. Walking in the Forum was over some rough, rock strewn paths, but at a pace that allowed us to take everything in and get lots of great pictures. The Coliseum was “awesome” and moving and beautiful. While we were there, someone was doing performance art that sounded like an air raid siren (interesting) and we saw a couple having their wedding pictures taken with the Coliseum as a back drop – pretty wonderful.
After two+ hours no one can walk anymore: the 74 year old Aunt brought 7 pairs of high heels to Italy and wore a particularly thin-soled pair all day today; the Nieces’ sandals are proving to have inadequate padding for the cobble stones; the Cousin is just tired and my knees have had it. It has been a long day. We take a taxi back to the hotel for a quick shower and change of clothes. We would give anything for take out at that moment, but we manage to find a pizzeria for dinner, eat gelato at Blue Ice and go to bed early.
Thursday June 9:
9:30 am, Vatican Gardens Tour was described as a “90 minute bus and walking tour”, but we never saw a bus. The Gardens are cool, beautiful, peaceful and a great way to get away from the din of Rome streets. The guide said everything in both English and Italian, which made the tour longer than necessary (lots of standing around listening to words we don’t understand very well) but in reality it didn’t matter. We were there for the views and to take lots of pictures. Our favorite garden had arches of jasmine over the walkways. There were fountains and historic buildings too. Everyone loved this tour but the collective feet are hurting…
We took a cab to the Trevi fountain to throw in our coins and take pictures, did a bit of shopping and then returned to the hotel for lunch and a rest.
I went into the church in Piazza Santa Maria and found it to be a real gem – amazing golden mosaics, just beautiful. It was also a cool, quiet place to sit and reflect on everything we had seen. This was one of those perfect moments where one feels so lucky to be able to travel and see so much beauty.
In the evening, we took a cab to the Pantheon. Even though there is some construction taking place, it is awe inspiring. The three youngest (Nieces and Cousin) are looking mutinous - I may have planned too much (Too much art? Too many churches?), but there is so much I want the Nieces to see!
We found Ristorante der Pallaro without too much trouble. The food was excellent and abundant. There is no menu – courses just keep coming. The food was delicious and the staff very friendly – a really fun night for us all.
Back to the hotel to pack for our trip to Florence.
We are five women leaving for a two week trip to Italy. Our group includes my two nieces, my aunt and her daughter (my cousin) and myself, three generations of family, ranging in age from a young 74 to a mature almost 19. It is a first trip abroad for the three youngest, a second trip for the eldest and the latest of several for me.
I have planned to bring the nieces to Italy for several years. I loved taking my sons when they were this age and I wanted the girls to have the same experience. My aunt and cousin decided last summer to join us, mostly because they wanted to go but were reluctant to go alone. Over the past year, as I made plans and reservations, I repeatedly asked for suggestions and input, but was reassured “You are the expert; you decide.” I am afraid this will come back to haunt me later.
Sunday June 5: Depart Boston 6:45 pm Terminal E, Lufthansa.
After last minute pictures and hugs, we proceed to the airline desk and find that Cousin has no ticket (electronic or otherwise). On Friday, June 3rd, my (former) travel agent changed the spelling of her first name on the e-ticket to correspond with her passport (something he had said was “all set” in March) and it cancelled everything. Thank goodness, a very sympathetic supervisor saw the error and re-ticketed her. We are traumatized, but ready to go.
Lufthansa is a great airline, very efficient, okay seating in economy, liberal libations and decent food.
Monday June 6: Arrive Rome 10:55 am.
Hotel Santa Maria in Trastevere sent Luigi with a van to pick us up. It is a godsend to have a driver waiting after a long flight.
The hotel is in a beautiful setting – all the rooms open out to a garden filled with orange trees, flowers and bistro tables for relaxing. Breakfast and complimentary cocktail hour food was delicious and the staff was both gracious and helpful. The 10% discount for paying cash allowed us to enjoy a very nice hotel at a more reasonable price. Free internet in the breakfast room was a great way to keep in touch with home. Air conditioning was more than adequate and very welcome after a hot day of site seeing.
Our tallest person in the triple suite was 5’ 6” which was very fortunate because the ceiling in the upstairs room is quite low and the shower head is positioned at about 5’7”. It would be wise to choose another room if you are taller. I think all the rooms with bathrooms on the ground floor were of normal height.
The only possible negative, though it was not for us, was that the location in Trastevere led us to take taxis into the major sites – we had early reservations each morning. Taxis for the five of us cost about the same as five bus tickets and were a lot more convenient. Niece 21 specialized in running up to taxis and inquiring “cinque?” with mostly positive results – it helps to have a cute young woman with you for this purpose. Niece 19 was our navigator – she could read any map (didn’t need reading glasses like the rest of us), find any destination and always got us back to the hotel, even in the dark.
We spent the first day exploring Trastevere and recovering from the flight over - had dinner at a restaurant close to and recommended by the hotel where they poured complimentary prosecco while we tried to figure out what we were hungry for at what felt like 2 am. The appetizer buffet and grilled meat were great.
Tuesday June 7:
We had trouble finding a cab for five at 8:15 am (rush hour), but once we split up into two cabs, they were all willing to take us to the Vatican. It was a particularly wild ride with scooters weaving in and out of traffic (makes commuting into Boston seem almost boring) and the two cab drivers yelling at each other out the window, trying to figure out where to drop us off. We held our breath and arrived at the Vatican just in time. A very cute Swiss Guard helped us find the Excavation Office quickly.
9:15 am, Scavi Tour (Excavations under the Vatican). We all thought that this was wonderful. I highly recommend it if you can get a reservation. They only allow 120 people per day to go through so as not to damage the ruins. I started conversing with the Scavi office in October and got our reservation in March. Bring water and wear comfortable shoes.
We barely had time for a quick lunch and drink before our next tour:
12:15 Icon Tour of the Vatican and St. Peter’s with Douglas. This was a great tour with a very enthusiastic guide. I think it was supposed to be a 2.5 hour tour and he stayed with us until 4:45pm. It was so informative that the time flew by.
The two youngest of our group, Niece 19 and Niece 21, were blown away by the Vatican. They loved the great mix of things to see from the ancient to the contemporary…. But their feet hurt and they are exhausted. And we’ve only done one day…uh oh. I think that scheduling two tours close together with only a small break was not so wise.
Back to the hotel for wine and naps before dinner in Trastevere
Wednesday June 8:
We are much better at getting a cab this morning. First of all, we started earlier, 8 am, and also we have figured out which cabs will take five passengers.
9 am Borghese Museum. I last saw the Borghese when it was being renovated in 1996 and very little was open to the public. We used the audio tours which were great. I love the sculpture and the building, but even though the sculpture was fabulous, I see “art fatigue” in the eyes of Cousin and Nieces.
11am. Time for shopping. We walked through the Borghese Gardens to the Spanish Steps, surprisingly easy with the help of a very nice man who directed us (practically led us) to the underground walkway. The policeman we asked using our best Italian evidently had never heard of the Spanish Steps! We bought beautiful, colorful gloves from Sergio di Cori, Piazza di Spagna, and Cousin and Nieces found cute tops at Blue Sand. So much fun!!
We decide to stop for a cool, refreshing drink and notice people drinking something bright red with an orange slice in it. Before most of us returned from the ladies’ room, Cousin orders them all around. We find that the beautiful red drink tastes like bitter rubbing alcohol. The drink is Compari and the waiter helpfully tells us (after the fact) that most people drink it diluted with soda water. So we order soda water, Sprite, still water – nothing makes it drinkable. At least, we have some funny pictures…
4:00 pm Ancient Rome Tour with Icon - Another great tour. Our guide was informative and very pleasant. Walking in the Forum was over some rough, rock strewn paths, but at a pace that allowed us to take everything in and get lots of great pictures. The Coliseum was “awesome” and moving and beautiful. While we were there, someone was doing performance art that sounded like an air raid siren (interesting) and we saw a couple having their wedding pictures taken with the Coliseum as a back drop – pretty wonderful.
After two+ hours no one can walk anymore: the 74 year old Aunt brought 7 pairs of high heels to Italy and wore a particularly thin-soled pair all day today; the Nieces’ sandals are proving to have inadequate padding for the cobble stones; the Cousin is just tired and my knees have had it. It has been a long day. We take a taxi back to the hotel for a quick shower and change of clothes. We would give anything for take out at that moment, but we manage to find a pizzeria for dinner, eat gelato at Blue Ice and go to bed early.
Thursday June 9:
9:30 am, Vatican Gardens Tour was described as a “90 minute bus and walking tour”, but we never saw a bus. The Gardens are cool, beautiful, peaceful and a great way to get away from the din of Rome streets. The guide said everything in both English and Italian, which made the tour longer than necessary (lots of standing around listening to words we don’t understand very well) but in reality it didn’t matter. We were there for the views and to take lots of pictures. Our favorite garden had arches of jasmine over the walkways. There were fountains and historic buildings too. Everyone loved this tour but the collective feet are hurting…
We took a cab to the Trevi fountain to throw in our coins and take pictures, did a bit of shopping and then returned to the hotel for lunch and a rest.
I went into the church in Piazza Santa Maria and found it to be a real gem – amazing golden mosaics, just beautiful. It was also a cool, quiet place to sit and reflect on everything we had seen. This was one of those perfect moments where one feels so lucky to be able to travel and see so much beauty.
In the evening, we took a cab to the Pantheon. Even though there is some construction taking place, it is awe inspiring. The three youngest (Nieces and Cousin) are looking mutinous - I may have planned too much (Too much art? Too many churches?), but there is so much I want the Nieces to see!
We found Ristorante der Pallaro without too much trouble. The food was excellent and abundant. There is no menu – courses just keep coming. The food was delicious and the staff very friendly – a really fun night for us all.
Back to the hotel to pack for our trip to Florence.
If nieces 19 and 21 don't wish to accompany you on future trips, this 25 year old gal will be happy to summon taxi cabs if allowed to tag along ;-)
Oct 24th, 2005, 07:13 AM
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Thank you for the positive responses. Texasaggie, I just might take you up on that! I have lots more to report - here is Part 2, Florence.
Friday June 10:
The hotel called us a cab to take “five people plus luggage” to the train station. It is only a regular six person vehicle. Uh oh – time is getting short and we need to make the train…. The luggage is stuffed everywhere including on our laps, the driver is singing along to some loud disco music on the radio and the hot summer temperatures only add to the pungent atmosphere in his car. We all got a case of the giggles at the absurdity of the situation. It was so quirky that it was funny, though we were thankful that it was a quick ride.
8:55 am Train to Florence. Arrive 10:31. I never anticipated that traveling by ES train would be stressful. The Rome station did not announce the track until 5 minutes before the train arrived and we had reservations for Car 11! We needed to execute a very long, weaving dash through the crowd, each of us dragging a rolling suitcase with a carry-on hanging from it. Quite a sight!! Especially the Aunt in high heels!
When we got to our train car, we found loading the luggage up the steps was difficult, but stowing it was easier than we thought it would be because there was a storage rack at the end of our car – no lifting into the overhead rack. We found our seats and relaxed for the short trip to Florence. Unloading the luggage was only difficult because there were people behind us who wanted us to move out of the way. There was plenty of time.
With five people and five suitcases, we needed two cabs to get to Residenza Il Villino - a lovely hotel in a residential neighborhood just north of the Duomo. Our hosts were most gracious and welcoming. The rooms are spotless, comfortable and air conditioned. This was the only hotel where I had a double bed for single use – very nice. The view from my third floor window included the garden, the Duomo and a gorgeous flowering tree, maybe a magnolia. Again, free internet in the breakfast room was wonderful. The garden was beautiful and a great place to relax for breakfast or after site seeing. Everything is a manageable walk from our hotel, which is a nice change from taking all the taxis in Rome.
After a quick and very good lunch at Café La Pergola right down the street on via del Pergola, we visited the Duomo and Baptistery. I never tire of these two buildings, but the rest of my group seemed only slightly impressed. I kept trying to talk about the famous bronze doors, but the Nieces and Cousin were more interested in shopping, which given the sheer number of buying opportunities in Florence is probably understandable.
We had a very nice dinner at Trattoria Accadi on via Borga Pinti near our hotel, about 17 euro pp with house wine.
**A note for Florence in general: The mosquitoes are out in full force. There are few screens on windows and lots of wonderful outdoor dining places, so just remember to bring and wear insect repellant.
Saturday June 11:
10:15 reservation for the Accademia – everyone loves the David and the Prisoners, so I figure it is a good time to do some “compare and contrast” by visiting the Bargello’s wonderful sculpture. My guide book has some good commentary, but the attention spans are getting shorter, eyes are glazing over and my crew is getting hungry…Oh well.
We found a Jolly café across from the Police Station that serves a really miserable lunch (2 soggy, 1 stale panini). At least the bathroom is a good one, i.e., clean, modern facilities.
On to the Santa Croce area for shopping and a tour of the church: Nieces and I take a little tour of the church and grounds. I love it; they think it is nice, but are ready to move on.
Aunt was splattered by a pigeon while looking into a jewelry store window. The sales woman came out to help her, brought her in to clean up and was rewarded with a nice sale as both Aunt and Cousin found gorgeous three-colored gold rings there. Could it be that the store has an arrangement with the pigeon? I also found a wonderful gold ring in another shop and I didn’t even have to endure the pigeon!
Our afternoon ended with Aunt falling off a curb. Her daughter finally convinced her to buy flat, padded-sole sandals. Thank goodness.
We go back to the hotel to shower and dress for dinner, but our host is worried we won’t find a place to eat without a reservation on a Saturday night. So we just started walking and stumbled onto Il Ritrovo on via de Pucci, the place I heard so many good things about, but was having trouble finding. It was as wonderful as everyone described: lovely ambiance, friendly, gracious staff and delicious food! The waiter poured complimentary prosecco while we decided what to order. We shared a house appetizer and then each had a pasta dish, wine and shared desserts (~22 euros per person). The chef/owner came out to greet us and offered complimentary cordials while we waited for our check. We had such a good time that we made a reservation for Tuesday night, Niece 19’s birthday.
Sunday June 12:
We walked over the Ponte Vecchio ogling more jewelry than we can imagine exists in the whole world. Cousin found a watch with Murano beading around it for 27 euros (They sell for three times that price in Murano.) Niece 21 found a gold fleur-de-lis for her charm bracelet.
The Casini leather shop across from the Pitti Palace had been recommended to us and it is really nice. The sales people are friendly and helpful and the quality of the goods is remarkable. Much of it is handmade and there were no tour groups pushing us out of the way as in the leather shops near Santa Croce. We bought beautiful handmade wallets. Niece 21 found gorgeous, handmade shoes on sale. They also do made-to-order clothing. Wish we had more time…
Aunt missed the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens on her previous trip to Florence (1959), so this was her special request. We should have gotten an audio guide or taken a tour. It is very big and the luxurious furnishings and huge paintings all run together if you don’t know what you are looking at. By the time we got to the gardens, the group was tired, hot and footsore. We did get some beautiful pictures though.
We stopped at a café near the Pitti Palace. I do not remember exactly but the name started with an M and it was only about five letters long. We opted to sit down for gelato and cold water. There was no menu except a list of flavors, so we ordered blindly, knowing it would be more than the walk-away price (about 2.5 euros for a small dish), but needing the rest. However, for three dishes of gelato, two cones and one bottle of water, the bill came to 40 euros!! Gelato buyers beware.
It was very hard to find a restaurant open on Sunday night in our neighborhood of Florence. We ended up with pizza that was pretty good, but not wonderful – at least it cost less than the afternoon gelato and we didn’t have to go to McDonalds. The funniest part of the experience was having my fresh tomato, mozzarella and basil pizza arrive sprinkled with rocket (salad greens) instead of basil. When I asked the waiter about the change, he told me that there is no basil in Italy at this time of year! I wonder where every other restaurant we ate at got it. Maybe he didn’t think we’d notice. Actually the rocket was interesting – like having a salad with my pizza.
Monday June 13:
I had planned on a day trip to Sienna for this day, but was overruled by the group who decided that they wanted to spend the day doing something different (no churches, museums or art.) Okay. Cousin and Nieces want to take a wine tasting tour. It felt like a good idea for me to step aside a bit, so I left it up to them to pick a tour. Interesting choice: Walking Tours of Tuscany.
We paid 50 euros each at the tour office and then waited about a half hour for them to call us a cab. The cab brought us just outside Florence to a lovely villa that had been used in several movies (Tea with Mussolini, etc.). We joined a group that had been hiking all morning.
Our guide was very nice and the villa was beautiful and interesting. We spent about a half hour touring it and taking pictures of the gorgeous view. We then walked a short way to a restaurant and had a great lunch of Tuscan specialties with red and white wine. As soon as we finished lunch, we proceeded to walk for a long, boring, hot 30 to 45 minutes, down a hill and up two hills (over rough, airless paths) to the bus stop, where we took a city bus back to Florence. That was it for the “wine tasting tour”.
I felt cheated not only because it seemed expensive for what we got, but also because there was no narration while we walked to the bus stop or any special views. I walk every day so I am used to walking, but this was no fun.
In retrospect, for the 250 euros ($312) the five of us spent, we could have hired a private guide for a half day, seen a bit more and been rested instead of exhausted at the end of the day. This tour was not what I expected and certainly not to my taste, but everyone else in my little group had a great time – they deserve it after following me around all week!
That night we went to a restaurant recommended by Jennifer at Casini Leather Shop, where we had a great casual dinner including a dish called strawberry risotto – unusual and delicious.
Tuesday June 14:
Today is our last full day in Florence, so I want to bring Nieces to the Medici Chapels, Santa Maria Novella or the Duomo museum. They read a bit and decide on the Medici Chapels. It is also pouring rain so an inside activity seems wise. The Nieces are impressed by Michelangelo’s sculpture and by the time we are ready to leave, the rain has stopped and everyone is hungry.
With the sun shining, we took the opportunity to shop in the Lorenzo market: Niece 19 picked out fur-lined gloves and a wallet for my birthday presents to her; Niece 21 found a sweater and a halter top; I bought fleece-lined, suede mittens for my baby grandson!
4pm Uffizi Tour with CAF: I applied for reservations for the Uffizi in early May and found that the only openings were for dates after we were to leave Italy. So at the suggestion of our hotelier and to avoid the very long lines, I signed up for a tour with CAF for 27 euros each – quite a bit more than the regular admission but for the short attention span of my family group, it was perfect.
We arrived at the Uffizi and were told to wait for our guide under the loggia – good thing, as the skies open up with pouring rain, thunder and lightening. Our guide was enthusiastic and knowledgeable and the tour was great. It is my third visit and I find something new to love each time. The tour was good for us in that it was interesting, hit the highlights and was short.
We celebrate Niece 19’s birthday with dinner at Il Ritrovo and it was really special. Four of us ordered the mixed grill (chicken, pork, lamb chops, sausage and steak; the birthday girl had sea bass and sampled some of the meat. It was all great. We had more than we could eat, but of course there is always room for dessert – cheesecake, tiramisu, and chocolate soufflé were our favorites. The cheesecake appeared with a candle so we could sing Happy Birthday and the owner and his son (very cute!) came out to help. What a fun celebration! (29 euros pp)
Tomorrow we go to Venice!
Friday June 10:
The hotel called us a cab to take “five people plus luggage” to the train station. It is only a regular six person vehicle. Uh oh – time is getting short and we need to make the train…. The luggage is stuffed everywhere including on our laps, the driver is singing along to some loud disco music on the radio and the hot summer temperatures only add to the pungent atmosphere in his car. We all got a case of the giggles at the absurdity of the situation. It was so quirky that it was funny, though we were thankful that it was a quick ride.
8:55 am Train to Florence. Arrive 10:31. I never anticipated that traveling by ES train would be stressful. The Rome station did not announce the track until 5 minutes before the train arrived and we had reservations for Car 11! We needed to execute a very long, weaving dash through the crowd, each of us dragging a rolling suitcase with a carry-on hanging from it. Quite a sight!! Especially the Aunt in high heels!
When we got to our train car, we found loading the luggage up the steps was difficult, but stowing it was easier than we thought it would be because there was a storage rack at the end of our car – no lifting into the overhead rack. We found our seats and relaxed for the short trip to Florence. Unloading the luggage was only difficult because there were people behind us who wanted us to move out of the way. There was plenty of time.
With five people and five suitcases, we needed two cabs to get to Residenza Il Villino - a lovely hotel in a residential neighborhood just north of the Duomo. Our hosts were most gracious and welcoming. The rooms are spotless, comfortable and air conditioned. This was the only hotel where I had a double bed for single use – very nice. The view from my third floor window included the garden, the Duomo and a gorgeous flowering tree, maybe a magnolia. Again, free internet in the breakfast room was wonderful. The garden was beautiful and a great place to relax for breakfast or after site seeing. Everything is a manageable walk from our hotel, which is a nice change from taking all the taxis in Rome.
After a quick and very good lunch at Café La Pergola right down the street on via del Pergola, we visited the Duomo and Baptistery. I never tire of these two buildings, but the rest of my group seemed only slightly impressed. I kept trying to talk about the famous bronze doors, but the Nieces and Cousin were more interested in shopping, which given the sheer number of buying opportunities in Florence is probably understandable.
We had a very nice dinner at Trattoria Accadi on via Borga Pinti near our hotel, about 17 euro pp with house wine.
**A note for Florence in general: The mosquitoes are out in full force. There are few screens on windows and lots of wonderful outdoor dining places, so just remember to bring and wear insect repellant.
Saturday June 11:
10:15 reservation for the Accademia – everyone loves the David and the Prisoners, so I figure it is a good time to do some “compare and contrast” by visiting the Bargello’s wonderful sculpture. My guide book has some good commentary, but the attention spans are getting shorter, eyes are glazing over and my crew is getting hungry…Oh well.
We found a Jolly café across from the Police Station that serves a really miserable lunch (2 soggy, 1 stale panini). At least the bathroom is a good one, i.e., clean, modern facilities.
On to the Santa Croce area for shopping and a tour of the church: Nieces and I take a little tour of the church and grounds. I love it; they think it is nice, but are ready to move on.
Aunt was splattered by a pigeon while looking into a jewelry store window. The sales woman came out to help her, brought her in to clean up and was rewarded with a nice sale as both Aunt and Cousin found gorgeous three-colored gold rings there. Could it be that the store has an arrangement with the pigeon? I also found a wonderful gold ring in another shop and I didn’t even have to endure the pigeon!
Our afternoon ended with Aunt falling off a curb. Her daughter finally convinced her to buy flat, padded-sole sandals. Thank goodness.
We go back to the hotel to shower and dress for dinner, but our host is worried we won’t find a place to eat without a reservation on a Saturday night. So we just started walking and stumbled onto Il Ritrovo on via de Pucci, the place I heard so many good things about, but was having trouble finding. It was as wonderful as everyone described: lovely ambiance, friendly, gracious staff and delicious food! The waiter poured complimentary prosecco while we decided what to order. We shared a house appetizer and then each had a pasta dish, wine and shared desserts (~22 euros per person). The chef/owner came out to greet us and offered complimentary cordials while we waited for our check. We had such a good time that we made a reservation for Tuesday night, Niece 19’s birthday.
Sunday June 12:
We walked over the Ponte Vecchio ogling more jewelry than we can imagine exists in the whole world. Cousin found a watch with Murano beading around it for 27 euros (They sell for three times that price in Murano.) Niece 21 found a gold fleur-de-lis for her charm bracelet.
The Casini leather shop across from the Pitti Palace had been recommended to us and it is really nice. The sales people are friendly and helpful and the quality of the goods is remarkable. Much of it is handmade and there were no tour groups pushing us out of the way as in the leather shops near Santa Croce. We bought beautiful handmade wallets. Niece 21 found gorgeous, handmade shoes on sale. They also do made-to-order clothing. Wish we had more time…
Aunt missed the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens on her previous trip to Florence (1959), so this was her special request. We should have gotten an audio guide or taken a tour. It is very big and the luxurious furnishings and huge paintings all run together if you don’t know what you are looking at. By the time we got to the gardens, the group was tired, hot and footsore. We did get some beautiful pictures though.
We stopped at a café near the Pitti Palace. I do not remember exactly but the name started with an M and it was only about five letters long. We opted to sit down for gelato and cold water. There was no menu except a list of flavors, so we ordered blindly, knowing it would be more than the walk-away price (about 2.5 euros for a small dish), but needing the rest. However, for three dishes of gelato, two cones and one bottle of water, the bill came to 40 euros!! Gelato buyers beware.
It was very hard to find a restaurant open on Sunday night in our neighborhood of Florence. We ended up with pizza that was pretty good, but not wonderful – at least it cost less than the afternoon gelato and we didn’t have to go to McDonalds. The funniest part of the experience was having my fresh tomato, mozzarella and basil pizza arrive sprinkled with rocket (salad greens) instead of basil. When I asked the waiter about the change, he told me that there is no basil in Italy at this time of year! I wonder where every other restaurant we ate at got it. Maybe he didn’t think we’d notice. Actually the rocket was interesting – like having a salad with my pizza.
Monday June 13:
I had planned on a day trip to Sienna for this day, but was overruled by the group who decided that they wanted to spend the day doing something different (no churches, museums or art.) Okay. Cousin and Nieces want to take a wine tasting tour. It felt like a good idea for me to step aside a bit, so I left it up to them to pick a tour. Interesting choice: Walking Tours of Tuscany.
We paid 50 euros each at the tour office and then waited about a half hour for them to call us a cab. The cab brought us just outside Florence to a lovely villa that had been used in several movies (Tea with Mussolini, etc.). We joined a group that had been hiking all morning.
Our guide was very nice and the villa was beautiful and interesting. We spent about a half hour touring it and taking pictures of the gorgeous view. We then walked a short way to a restaurant and had a great lunch of Tuscan specialties with red and white wine. As soon as we finished lunch, we proceeded to walk for a long, boring, hot 30 to 45 minutes, down a hill and up two hills (over rough, airless paths) to the bus stop, where we took a city bus back to Florence. That was it for the “wine tasting tour”.
I felt cheated not only because it seemed expensive for what we got, but also because there was no narration while we walked to the bus stop or any special views. I walk every day so I am used to walking, but this was no fun.
In retrospect, for the 250 euros ($312) the five of us spent, we could have hired a private guide for a half day, seen a bit more and been rested instead of exhausted at the end of the day. This tour was not what I expected and certainly not to my taste, but everyone else in my little group had a great time – they deserve it after following me around all week!
That night we went to a restaurant recommended by Jennifer at Casini Leather Shop, where we had a great casual dinner including a dish called strawberry risotto – unusual and delicious.
Tuesday June 14:
Today is our last full day in Florence, so I want to bring Nieces to the Medici Chapels, Santa Maria Novella or the Duomo museum. They read a bit and decide on the Medici Chapels. It is also pouring rain so an inside activity seems wise. The Nieces are impressed by Michelangelo’s sculpture and by the time we are ready to leave, the rain has stopped and everyone is hungry.
With the sun shining, we took the opportunity to shop in the Lorenzo market: Niece 19 picked out fur-lined gloves and a wallet for my birthday presents to her; Niece 21 found a sweater and a halter top; I bought fleece-lined, suede mittens for my baby grandson!
4pm Uffizi Tour with CAF: I applied for reservations for the Uffizi in early May and found that the only openings were for dates after we were to leave Italy. So at the suggestion of our hotelier and to avoid the very long lines, I signed up for a tour with CAF for 27 euros each – quite a bit more than the regular admission but for the short attention span of my family group, it was perfect.
We arrived at the Uffizi and were told to wait for our guide under the loggia – good thing, as the skies open up with pouring rain, thunder and lightening. Our guide was enthusiastic and knowledgeable and the tour was great. It is my third visit and I find something new to love each time. The tour was good for us in that it was interesting, hit the highlights and was short.
We celebrate Niece 19’s birthday with dinner at Il Ritrovo and it was really special. Four of us ordered the mixed grill (chicken, pork, lamb chops, sausage and steak; the birthday girl had sea bass and sampled some of the meat. It was all great. We had more than we could eat, but of course there is always room for dessert – cheesecake, tiramisu, and chocolate soufflé were our favorites. The cheesecake appeared with a candle so we could sing Happy Birthday and the owner and his son (very cute!) came out to help. What a fun celebration! (29 euros pp)
Tomorrow we go to Venice!
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Thanks to all of you who have responded to my report. Sharing it has been fun. I look forward to more comments, questions, etc.
Part 3
Wednesday June 15:
Sergio orders two cabs for us and the first one is grumpy about handling luggage. He and Sergio exchange words, another cab appears for the rest of us and we get to the station with plenty of time to figure out on which track the ES train will arrive – we are wrong! The train comes in on a different track than the signboard announced…
8:39 am train from Florence to Venice. Arrive 11:28. We are better at taking the train after the last experience. In fact we had very little stress until we got onto the Water Bus to Pensione La Calcina in Dorsoduro. We bought 72 hour vaporetto passes at the dock that got us to the hotel and were invaluable for seeing Venice easily.
The Water Bus to the Zattere stop was very crowded and it was difficult to know where to stand with our luggage. Four of our group were urged down the stairs into a crowded hot, standing-room-only cabin. I was fortunate to be the last one on and I got to stay up on deck with my suitcase. Even though the water was pretty rough, I was enthralled with the ride, the view and the beautiful day - until I saw my group come out of “steerage”. They were pale and traumatized by people pushing, the heat and the rocking motion. Anyway, we had to heave the luggage over one many-stepped bridge to get to the hotel, which would not have felt so daunting if the trip from the train station had been easier. In retrospect, taking the water bus down the Grand Canal to the Accademia stop would have been a much better choice. Those boats are all one level and larger, there are no bridges to navigate to get from the dock to the hotel, the water is smoother and the trip is prettier. It might be a slightly longer walk but easier.
Anyway La Calcina is lovely, with beautiful views and a great restaurant on their dock serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks. We felt like we were on a cruise ship just sitting there watching boats go by and enjoying being in Venice. The staff is very nice and the location is perfect. All our rooms have views of the canal – so beautiful!!
After lunch and cooling off, we took a walk to Ste Maria Salute, but it is hotter than we had thought and we get lost. We get to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum and find that the garden that had been free in 1996 now requires an admission ticket. Everyone is too tired to tour the museum (or maybe too tired of museums). After a few unhappy detours, we all decide that a nap is a good idea.
We ate at the hotel that night. They have a special deal for guests, three courses and wine for 22 euro. The food was good and the ambience wonderful. After dinner, we decided to take a boat tour of the Grand Canal using our passes. The trip was beautiful; looking at the palazzos all lit up is magical. We stopped at St. Mark’s Square and decide that we will come back to sit at the café the following night.
Thursday June 16:
We took the vaporetto to Murano and found both the trip and the island delightful. After a few minutes of the glass blowing demonstration, we used the very clean bathrooms and left to shop.
There are great shops all over the island. It’s bigger than we expected. We all made purchases (mostly jewelry and a mask) and took the vaporetto back to St. Mark’s Basilica. There is a short line but the church is amazing and the Byzantine decoration so different from what we have seen previously. The golden mosaics are astounding. I see awe in the girl’s eyes - yes! Nieces and I climbed to the museum level to see the bronze horses and the wonderful view from the balcony. Wow! More awe. [Note: we found out after the fact that there is a bathroom in this museum – would have been useful.]
We decided to go back to the hotel to relax before dinner. We have a reservation for a restaurant in Dorsoduro, Antica Locanda Montin with a lovely garden. Two of us had the fritto misto (calamari, shrimp, sole and sardines), the rest had different fish dishes and all were wonderful (Nieces have even learned how to deal with a whole fish – cover the head with the lemon and lettuce garnish!). This was a great meal in a beautiful garden setting (27 euros pp with wine and coffee, no dessert.
After dinner, Cousin expressed an interest in visiting the Municipal Casino. We took the vaporetto and walked into a very formal lobby with no indication that any gambling took place there – it was all on the upper levels, behind the velvet rope. After a few inquiries by our dauntless Niece 21, we find out that there is a 10 euro admission charge (I think you get it back in a chip.), a dress code (suit jackets for men; not sure for women, but I think in our dinner clothes we were probably okay) and high stakes - on to Plan B.
The Café Florian is our next stop. It is very expensive, but really delightful to sit on St. Mark’s Square, listen to music and just enjoy Venice. Niece 19, who is an accomplished violinist, really loved the classical repertoire. The inside of the Café is gilt and velvet and lovely. Now for the down side: For two gelatos, two cappuccinos with amaretto on the side, and one American coffee, we paid 89 euros including the 5 euro per person music charge!! It seems decadent, but we all decided it was worth it for the experience – like going to a concert with refreshments included. I know it sounds crazy that I would complain about the villa visit and not this one, but …
Friday June 17:
It is another beautiful but hot, sunny day. We have found the benefit of the small alleyways and long loggias – shade. It feels so much better out of the sun.
Our plan today is to visit the Doges Palace after breakfast. We purchased the audio guides which were interesting and easy to use. Nieces liked the armor, weapons and prisons best (probably because it was different from everything else we had seen) and Aunt and Cousin had enough trouble with the audio guide that they decided to leave and go shopping.
Nieces and I took the vaporetto to San Georgio, a lovely church, but the campanile is closed for renovation. The ride was breezy and pleasant and the view of Venice from the boat great.
After lunch we walked to the Rialto Bridge, down the small shopping streets that were cool, shaded and fun. We found a few souvenirs and then returned to our hotel for a nap and packing before dinner.
Since it was our last night in Italy, we decided to eat at the hotel and just relax over drinks after dinner. Our waiter, Raymo (sp?) took very good care of us, even remembering from night to night what each of us like to drink. What a great way to end our trip.
Saturday June 18:
Since we needed to get to the airport instead of the train station, we took the Alilaguna Boat for 10 euros each. It stopped right near our hotel and the crew helped with the luggage. It was a 90 minute trip, but pleasant and comfortable. There was a free bus shuttle from the dock to the terminal. We checked our bags, got our boarding passes and celebrated our new-found expertise with Bellinis at the airport bar!
We flew home at 2:20 pm from Venice and this time we all had tickets and seats. We arrived in Boston at 8:05 pm, right on time and with all of our luggage! The rest of the family was waiting to take us home and hear about our adventures.
All in all, I think that this was a wonderful trip. Our group got along well and became closer for the shared experiences. Much to my relief, the Nieces and Cousin assumed responsibility for arranging restaurant choices and evening activities. Aunt was thrilled to be back in Italy after so many years and, especially, to be traveling with her daughter.
I loved seeing Italy through the eyes of my nieces even though their reaction was often different from what I expected. They have been appropriately grateful and told me that they had a good time, but were also very honest in their evaluation of the experience: too much art in too many churches and museums, not enough relaxation, too much structure, etc. Even though I understand their reservations, I believe that my nieces will come to regard the trip differently as time goes by. The art that seemed so monotonous and so tedious may evolve into a lifetime of art appreciation. The cultural differences that seemed so overwhelming in Italy may turn out to be the best stories of the trip. The sore feet, weird plumbing and incessant graffiti will become less important as the impact of the incredible art and history grows. Even their occasional impression that Italian people (our ancestors) are rude and unhelpful will fade; in fact, I only remember really nice, gracious Italians...
Another factor that had a significant impact on the Nieces’ feelings about our trip is that these educated and highly accomplished young women had never had any art history or art appreciation in school. My sons, who are ten years older than the Nieces, had studied art history in high school as part of language class (Latin, Italian and Spanish) and as background for various history courses. In college, art history was part of the core curriculum. It seems that this is no longer the case. It is no wonder that the Nieces were bored with art – other than the most famous pieces by Michelangelo and DaVinci, everything else was an unknown. My recommendation is that if you are planning a trip to Italy with a focus on art, be sure that the participants have some background in art and familiarity with the major artists.
I learned a great deal about planning a group trip especially not planning too many activities (visiting churches, museums, ruins, etc.) for other people who may have interests and stamina different from mine. In retrospect, I should have known that my family members from small, quiet communities in upstate New York would tire of cities and need some time in the country. Two days exploring Tuscany and three in Florence might have been a better choice.
We did have a good time seeing the sites, but an even better time just enjoying Italy. Some of the best memories: our gracious hosts who treated us like family, the daily ritual of drinks in the garden (or on the Canal) before dinner, long relaxing meals, laughing our way through unexpected situations and shopping (the default activity) whether for bargains or luxuries. Ah Bella Italia – I think that it is almost time to start planning next year’s trip…
Part 3
Wednesday June 15:
Sergio orders two cabs for us and the first one is grumpy about handling luggage. He and Sergio exchange words, another cab appears for the rest of us and we get to the station with plenty of time to figure out on which track the ES train will arrive – we are wrong! The train comes in on a different track than the signboard announced…
8:39 am train from Florence to Venice. Arrive 11:28. We are better at taking the train after the last experience. In fact we had very little stress until we got onto the Water Bus to Pensione La Calcina in Dorsoduro. We bought 72 hour vaporetto passes at the dock that got us to the hotel and were invaluable for seeing Venice easily.
The Water Bus to the Zattere stop was very crowded and it was difficult to know where to stand with our luggage. Four of our group were urged down the stairs into a crowded hot, standing-room-only cabin. I was fortunate to be the last one on and I got to stay up on deck with my suitcase. Even though the water was pretty rough, I was enthralled with the ride, the view and the beautiful day - until I saw my group come out of “steerage”. They were pale and traumatized by people pushing, the heat and the rocking motion. Anyway, we had to heave the luggage over one many-stepped bridge to get to the hotel, which would not have felt so daunting if the trip from the train station had been easier. In retrospect, taking the water bus down the Grand Canal to the Accademia stop would have been a much better choice. Those boats are all one level and larger, there are no bridges to navigate to get from the dock to the hotel, the water is smoother and the trip is prettier. It might be a slightly longer walk but easier.
Anyway La Calcina is lovely, with beautiful views and a great restaurant on their dock serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks. We felt like we were on a cruise ship just sitting there watching boats go by and enjoying being in Venice. The staff is very nice and the location is perfect. All our rooms have views of the canal – so beautiful!!
After lunch and cooling off, we took a walk to Ste Maria Salute, but it is hotter than we had thought and we get lost. We get to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum and find that the garden that had been free in 1996 now requires an admission ticket. Everyone is too tired to tour the museum (or maybe too tired of museums). After a few unhappy detours, we all decide that a nap is a good idea.
We ate at the hotel that night. They have a special deal for guests, three courses and wine for 22 euro. The food was good and the ambience wonderful. After dinner, we decided to take a boat tour of the Grand Canal using our passes. The trip was beautiful; looking at the palazzos all lit up is magical. We stopped at St. Mark’s Square and decide that we will come back to sit at the café the following night.
Thursday June 16:
We took the vaporetto to Murano and found both the trip and the island delightful. After a few minutes of the glass blowing demonstration, we used the very clean bathrooms and left to shop.
There are great shops all over the island. It’s bigger than we expected. We all made purchases (mostly jewelry and a mask) and took the vaporetto back to St. Mark’s Basilica. There is a short line but the church is amazing and the Byzantine decoration so different from what we have seen previously. The golden mosaics are astounding. I see awe in the girl’s eyes - yes! Nieces and I climbed to the museum level to see the bronze horses and the wonderful view from the balcony. Wow! More awe. [Note: we found out after the fact that there is a bathroom in this museum – would have been useful.]
We decided to go back to the hotel to relax before dinner. We have a reservation for a restaurant in Dorsoduro, Antica Locanda Montin with a lovely garden. Two of us had the fritto misto (calamari, shrimp, sole and sardines), the rest had different fish dishes and all were wonderful (Nieces have even learned how to deal with a whole fish – cover the head with the lemon and lettuce garnish!). This was a great meal in a beautiful garden setting (27 euros pp with wine and coffee, no dessert.
After dinner, Cousin expressed an interest in visiting the Municipal Casino. We took the vaporetto and walked into a very formal lobby with no indication that any gambling took place there – it was all on the upper levels, behind the velvet rope. After a few inquiries by our dauntless Niece 21, we find out that there is a 10 euro admission charge (I think you get it back in a chip.), a dress code (suit jackets for men; not sure for women, but I think in our dinner clothes we were probably okay) and high stakes - on to Plan B.
The Café Florian is our next stop. It is very expensive, but really delightful to sit on St. Mark’s Square, listen to music and just enjoy Venice. Niece 19, who is an accomplished violinist, really loved the classical repertoire. The inside of the Café is gilt and velvet and lovely. Now for the down side: For two gelatos, two cappuccinos with amaretto on the side, and one American coffee, we paid 89 euros including the 5 euro per person music charge!! It seems decadent, but we all decided it was worth it for the experience – like going to a concert with refreshments included. I know it sounds crazy that I would complain about the villa visit and not this one, but …
Friday June 17:
It is another beautiful but hot, sunny day. We have found the benefit of the small alleyways and long loggias – shade. It feels so much better out of the sun.
Our plan today is to visit the Doges Palace after breakfast. We purchased the audio guides which were interesting and easy to use. Nieces liked the armor, weapons and prisons best (probably because it was different from everything else we had seen) and Aunt and Cousin had enough trouble with the audio guide that they decided to leave and go shopping.
Nieces and I took the vaporetto to San Georgio, a lovely church, but the campanile is closed for renovation. The ride was breezy and pleasant and the view of Venice from the boat great.
After lunch we walked to the Rialto Bridge, down the small shopping streets that were cool, shaded and fun. We found a few souvenirs and then returned to our hotel for a nap and packing before dinner.
Since it was our last night in Italy, we decided to eat at the hotel and just relax over drinks after dinner. Our waiter, Raymo (sp?) took very good care of us, even remembering from night to night what each of us like to drink. What a great way to end our trip.
Saturday June 18:
Since we needed to get to the airport instead of the train station, we took the Alilaguna Boat for 10 euros each. It stopped right near our hotel and the crew helped with the luggage. It was a 90 minute trip, but pleasant and comfortable. There was a free bus shuttle from the dock to the terminal. We checked our bags, got our boarding passes and celebrated our new-found expertise with Bellinis at the airport bar!
We flew home at 2:20 pm from Venice and this time we all had tickets and seats. We arrived in Boston at 8:05 pm, right on time and with all of our luggage! The rest of the family was waiting to take us home and hear about our adventures.
All in all, I think that this was a wonderful trip. Our group got along well and became closer for the shared experiences. Much to my relief, the Nieces and Cousin assumed responsibility for arranging restaurant choices and evening activities. Aunt was thrilled to be back in Italy after so many years and, especially, to be traveling with her daughter.
I loved seeing Italy through the eyes of my nieces even though their reaction was often different from what I expected. They have been appropriately grateful and told me that they had a good time, but were also very honest in their evaluation of the experience: too much art in too many churches and museums, not enough relaxation, too much structure, etc. Even though I understand their reservations, I believe that my nieces will come to regard the trip differently as time goes by. The art that seemed so monotonous and so tedious may evolve into a lifetime of art appreciation. The cultural differences that seemed so overwhelming in Italy may turn out to be the best stories of the trip. The sore feet, weird plumbing and incessant graffiti will become less important as the impact of the incredible art and history grows. Even their occasional impression that Italian people (our ancestors) are rude and unhelpful will fade; in fact, I only remember really nice, gracious Italians...
Another factor that had a significant impact on the Nieces’ feelings about our trip is that these educated and highly accomplished young women had never had any art history or art appreciation in school. My sons, who are ten years older than the Nieces, had studied art history in high school as part of language class (Latin, Italian and Spanish) and as background for various history courses. In college, art history was part of the core curriculum. It seems that this is no longer the case. It is no wonder that the Nieces were bored with art – other than the most famous pieces by Michelangelo and DaVinci, everything else was an unknown. My recommendation is that if you are planning a trip to Italy with a focus on art, be sure that the participants have some background in art and familiarity with the major artists.
I learned a great deal about planning a group trip especially not planning too many activities (visiting churches, museums, ruins, etc.) for other people who may have interests and stamina different from mine. In retrospect, I should have known that my family members from small, quiet communities in upstate New York would tire of cities and need some time in the country. Two days exploring Tuscany and three in Florence might have been a better choice.
We did have a good time seeing the sites, but an even better time just enjoying Italy. Some of the best memories: our gracious hosts who treated us like family, the daily ritual of drinks in the garden (or on the Canal) before dinner, long relaxing meals, laughing our way through unexpected situations and shopping (the default activity) whether for bargains or luxuries. Ah Bella Italia – I think that it is almost time to start planning next year’s trip…
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