Switzerland Itinerary Realistic
Sep 8th, 2009, 01:21 PM
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Switzerland Itinerary Realistic
I am making my first trip to Switzerland in September and would love to know if I have made up a realistic intinerary...
About me: healthy, active 44-year old mom. Leaving husband and kids (7 & 10) at home for 10 days with the goal of easy hiking / walking, spending lots of time in the Alps and checking out places with a mind to bringing my family back next year for a visit.
I am travelling solo as I have many times (North Africa, Middle East, Europe, Hong Kong). I have found you are only as alone as you want to be and find it easy to meet people while travelling if you want to.
I fly into Geneva (only place I could go with free points with my available dates). I have purchased a Swiss Pass for all train rides.
Since I will be tired, planning to train to Appenzell and spend 2 days in Ebenalp area and then slowly work my way back to Geneva.
Next 2 days in Luzern where I plan to do the Mt. Pilatus Day trip.
Next 1 day in Zermatt. I hear it is expensive and over-rated but would still like to at least see it and the train ride in looks pretty.
Next 4 days in Berner Oberland. Has anyone ever done the hike to the Rotstock hut? Apparently you come down from the Birg gondola station and cross the "scary but not dangerous Wasenegg Ridge where Swiss kindergarten kids hike" according to Rick Steves. I am interested in walking to a mountain hut or two to stay the night and am also considering the Monchsjochhutte at the top of the Jungfraujoch but do not want to go anywhere too far off the beaten path / or where hiking is even slightly dangerous. Would love any feedback about huts / hikes in this area!
Last day in Lausanne / Montreaux close to Geneva airport.
I am not making any hotel reservations as I understand September is a slower season. I also want to keep my options open if I love a place and want to stay a little longer!
After reading this forum and travel books, I feel I am hitting the best parts of Switzerland but would LOVE to hear from anyone who has already been!
Thank you!
About me: healthy, active 44-year old mom. Leaving husband and kids (7 & 10) at home for 10 days with the goal of easy hiking / walking, spending lots of time in the Alps and checking out places with a mind to bringing my family back next year for a visit.
I am travelling solo as I have many times (North Africa, Middle East, Europe, Hong Kong). I have found you are only as alone as you want to be and find it easy to meet people while travelling if you want to.
I fly into Geneva (only place I could go with free points with my available dates). I have purchased a Swiss Pass for all train rides.
Since I will be tired, planning to train to Appenzell and spend 2 days in Ebenalp area and then slowly work my way back to Geneva.
Next 2 days in Luzern where I plan to do the Mt. Pilatus Day trip.
Next 1 day in Zermatt. I hear it is expensive and over-rated but would still like to at least see it and the train ride in looks pretty.
Next 4 days in Berner Oberland. Has anyone ever done the hike to the Rotstock hut? Apparently you come down from the Birg gondola station and cross the "scary but not dangerous Wasenegg Ridge where Swiss kindergarten kids hike" according to Rick Steves. I am interested in walking to a mountain hut or two to stay the night and am also considering the Monchsjochhutte at the top of the Jungfraujoch but do not want to go anywhere too far off the beaten path / or where hiking is even slightly dangerous. Would love any feedback about huts / hikes in this area!
Last day in Lausanne / Montreaux close to Geneva airport.
I am not making any hotel reservations as I understand September is a slower season. I also want to keep my options open if I love a place and want to stay a little longer!
After reading this forum and travel books, I feel I am hitting the best parts of Switzerland but would LOVE to hear from anyone who has already been!
Thank you!
Sep 8th, 2009, 02:30 PM
#2
Hi california_mom,
Although it's been a while since our only trip to Switzerland, you're plan sounds pretty good, but your first day seems like a long one getting to Appenzell. Only suggestions would be to switch your BO and Zermatt stays, meaning go to the BO from Luzern then Zermatt after the BO. The other suggestion would be add a night in Zermatt (increase the odds of a clear day to see the Matterhorn) and somewhere else (maybe Luzern) and skip the Appenzell part. Don't get me wrong, we liked the Appenzell area, but it seems your going out of your way to see it when, in my opinion, you aren't allowing enough time in Zermatt or Luzern.
Paul
Although it's been a while since our only trip to Switzerland, you're plan sounds pretty good, but your first day seems like a long one getting to Appenzell. Only suggestions would be to switch your BO and Zermatt stays, meaning go to the BO from Luzern then Zermatt after the BO. The other suggestion would be add a night in Zermatt (increase the odds of a clear day to see the Matterhorn) and somewhere else (maybe Luzern) and skip the Appenzell part. Don't get me wrong, we liked the Appenzell area, but it seems your going out of your way to see it when, in my opinion, you aren't allowing enough time in Zermatt or Luzern.
Paul
Sep 8th, 2009, 05:52 PM
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Hi Paul! Thank you for your feedback. Switching Zermatt and BO might be a good idea. I did it the other way so I could take the scenic train (Golden Pass?) from Interlakken to Montreaux as I have heard the ride is to die for. And I agree going way up to Appenzell is a long trek. It just sounds so interesting with the little hermit house, the mountain hut built into the cliff and the luge closeby in Jakobsbad? I figured those are things I should check out and bring our kids back next year. The most direct train from Geneva is via Bern and is 5 hours door-to-door. I figured I will be jet-lagged so I will catch up on my sleep en route.
When were you in Switzerland? Are there any other cities you recommend seeing on a quick trip? I want to try and get a feel for a few and then next year return with my family and stay put in just a couple of places.
Where did you stay in the BO? I like the look of Murren as it seems close to lots of walking trails and it has a stunning view.
Did you like Zermatt? As I said, I have heard it is very expensive and touristy. Rick Steves says BO is WAY better than Zermatt if you have to choose one. We like his recommendations / travel style but I would still like to take a look.
Look forward to hearing from you Paul!
When were you in Switzerland? Are there any other cities you recommend seeing on a quick trip? I want to try and get a feel for a few and then next year return with my family and stay put in just a couple of places.
Where did you stay in the BO? I like the look of Murren as it seems close to lots of walking trails and it has a stunning view.
Did you like Zermatt? As I said, I have heard it is very expensive and touristy. Rick Steves says BO is WAY better than Zermatt if you have to choose one. We like his recommendations / travel style but I would still like to take a look.
Look forward to hearing from you Paul!
Sep 8th, 2009, 06:57 PM
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The Birg Luftseilbahn station is the intermediate stop between Mürren and the Schilthorn.
From there you can wind you way over to the Rostock "hut."
Don't let the term hut mislead you; some of these shelter facilities are large. I have not visited the Rostock Hut, but the Mönchsjochhütte has space for 125 climbers.
If you want to go the the Mönchsjochhütte, the only way I know of without snow and ice climbing is to take the train to the Jungfraujoch. From the Mönchsjochhütte there are no casual strolls; everything is either an ascent or a descent of the Mönch, the peak between the Jungfrau and the Eiger.
From the Rostock Hut the trail leads over the Sefininfurka which is a steep pass that crosses the divide from the Lauterbrunnen side of the ridge to the Kandersteg side.
The trail descends to Griesalp from which you can take a post bus to Frutigen. Or you can keep walking.
A really adventuresome hiker can take the route over the Höhturli and descend steeply to the Öeschinensee near Kandersteg. When I first visited that area at age 65 I considered the Höhturli to be beyond my limits.
Speaking of Zermatt, I disagree with those who demean it as uselessly touristy. All of those mountain areas are touristy; that is what they live on; that is what they promote.
I think you can go to Zermatt and enjoy going higher without wallowing in the tourist trade. On the other hand, we have found some beautiful objects there for presents. For example our daughter-in-law collects figures of angels.
We found a beautiful angel carved from rose quartz. I have not seen one like it before or since anywhere.
I look at Zermatt as the doorway to two incredible excusions by mechanical transportation. First, the trip to the view station on top of the Klein Matterhorn is a blockbuster of a trip. You ride a Luftseilbahn up in 3 stages to the top.
On a clear day you can see virtually forever it seems.
The scenery is so grand that the Matterhorn, which is the closest peak, seems to fade into the background and become just another in an incredible panoply of mountain peaks.
To the west we could actually see Mount Blanc. To the east the Michabel Range was in full view with the Dom, at almot 15,000 feet it is the highest mountain peak entirely within Switzerland.
To get a good look at the Dom, I suggest a visit to Saas Grund and ride the Luftseilbahn up to Hohsaas. The Dom is a perfectly gorgeous mountain with perfectly carved cirques, still with glaciers in them on either flank. If you go to Saas Fee, the Dom rises seeming straight up above you for a distance of some 10,000 vertical feet. We rode a gondola up to a stop above Saas Fee for a short hike and the Dom seemed no less majestic nor did we seem to have gotten any closer to the summit.
In the Lauterbrunnen-Grindelwald area, the classic hike if you want to tackle a long one is to take the route from Schynige Platte across the ridges to the gondola station known as First. A train from Wildersil just outside of Interlaken Ost rail station takes you to the top. Then you have a long hike to First. The lakes on either side of Interlaken are in full view to the north and the full stretch of the main range of the Berner Oberland stretches east and west to the south.
If you try this hike, I suggest an early start. This time of year, it could be unfeasible because you want to arrive at First before the last valley descent of the gondola.
Otherwise it is a long, steep downhill hike to Grindelwald.
This time of year the last valley departure is 5 in the afternoon.
I suggest you take the gondola to First and then hike to the top of the Faulhorn. It is a little steep, but I did it my first trip when I was a semi sedantary 65. Even if you do not make the top, the views are gorgeous.
Well I could go on and on about the area around Lauterbrunnen, but I will sign off with this posting.
From there you can wind you way over to the Rostock "hut."
Don't let the term hut mislead you; some of these shelter facilities are large. I have not visited the Rostock Hut, but the Mönchsjochhütte has space for 125 climbers.
If you want to go the the Mönchsjochhütte, the only way I know of without snow and ice climbing is to take the train to the Jungfraujoch. From the Mönchsjochhütte there are no casual strolls; everything is either an ascent or a descent of the Mönch, the peak between the Jungfrau and the Eiger.
From the Rostock Hut the trail leads over the Sefininfurka which is a steep pass that crosses the divide from the Lauterbrunnen side of the ridge to the Kandersteg side.
The trail descends to Griesalp from which you can take a post bus to Frutigen. Or you can keep walking.
A really adventuresome hiker can take the route over the Höhturli and descend steeply to the Öeschinensee near Kandersteg. When I first visited that area at age 65 I considered the Höhturli to be beyond my limits.
Speaking of Zermatt, I disagree with those who demean it as uselessly touristy. All of those mountain areas are touristy; that is what they live on; that is what they promote.
I think you can go to Zermatt and enjoy going higher without wallowing in the tourist trade. On the other hand, we have found some beautiful objects there for presents. For example our daughter-in-law collects figures of angels.
We found a beautiful angel carved from rose quartz. I have not seen one like it before or since anywhere.
I look at Zermatt as the doorway to two incredible excusions by mechanical transportation. First, the trip to the view station on top of the Klein Matterhorn is a blockbuster of a trip. You ride a Luftseilbahn up in 3 stages to the top.
On a clear day you can see virtually forever it seems.
The scenery is so grand that the Matterhorn, which is the closest peak, seems to fade into the background and become just another in an incredible panoply of mountain peaks.
To the west we could actually see Mount Blanc. To the east the Michabel Range was in full view with the Dom, at almot 15,000 feet it is the highest mountain peak entirely within Switzerland.
To get a good look at the Dom, I suggest a visit to Saas Grund and ride the Luftseilbahn up to Hohsaas. The Dom is a perfectly gorgeous mountain with perfectly carved cirques, still with glaciers in them on either flank. If you go to Saas Fee, the Dom rises seeming straight up above you for a distance of some 10,000 vertical feet. We rode a gondola up to a stop above Saas Fee for a short hike and the Dom seemed no less majestic nor did we seem to have gotten any closer to the summit.
In the Lauterbrunnen-Grindelwald area, the classic hike if you want to tackle a long one is to take the route from Schynige Platte across the ridges to the gondola station known as First. A train from Wildersil just outside of Interlaken Ost rail station takes you to the top. Then you have a long hike to First. The lakes on either side of Interlaken are in full view to the north and the full stretch of the main range of the Berner Oberland stretches east and west to the south.
If you try this hike, I suggest an early start. This time of year, it could be unfeasible because you want to arrive at First before the last valley descent of the gondola.
Otherwise it is a long, steep downhill hike to Grindelwald.
This time of year the last valley departure is 5 in the afternoon.
I suggest you take the gondola to First and then hike to the top of the Faulhorn. It is a little steep, but I did it my first trip when I was a semi sedantary 65. Even if you do not make the top, the views are gorgeous.
Well I could go on and on about the area around Lauterbrunnen, but I will sign off with this posting.
Sep 8th, 2009, 08:38 PM
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Hi california_mom,
I agree with Paul that your route has a bit of back-and-forthing in it, moving from Luzern down to Zermatt up to the Oberland and down to Lake Geneva again. Instead, I would go:
Appenzell-Luzern-Oberland-Zermatt-Lausanne
even though going Oberland-Zermatt via the Golden Pass might be a longer day.
I also agree with you (and apparently with Steves) that one night in Zermatt would be enough. I spent a week there skiing and hiking and wasn't all that impressed. I've heard it called the "Manhattan of the mountains," and I agree. It's just really built up, too many hotels, apartments, restaurants, stores, etc, pushed into too little acreage.
However, you ought to keep the weather in mind -- chances are your one night may not coincide with clear skies, and you still won't see the Matterhorn. Folks generally plan to stay there 3-4 days if they definitely want to see that peak.
Anyway, have fun!
s
I agree with Paul that your route has a bit of back-and-forthing in it, moving from Luzern down to Zermatt up to the Oberland and down to Lake Geneva again. Instead, I would go:
Appenzell-Luzern-Oberland-Zermatt-Lausanne
even though going Oberland-Zermatt via the Golden Pass might be a longer day.
I also agree with you (and apparently with Steves) that one night in Zermatt would be enough. I spent a week there skiing and hiking and wasn't all that impressed. I've heard it called the "Manhattan of the mountains," and I agree. It's just really built up, too many hotels, apartments, restaurants, stores, etc, pushed into too little acreage.
However, you ought to keep the weather in mind -- chances are your one night may not coincide with clear skies, and you still won't see the Matterhorn. Folks generally plan to stay there 3-4 days if they definitely want to see that peak.
Anyway, have fun!
s
Sep 8th, 2009, 09:36 PM
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One option for your visit to Zermatt, since you mentioned wanting to hike up to a hut and stay overnight sometime during your trip, would be to hike up to Hotel du Trift:
http://www.zermatt.net/trift/de/
Not a hut, but a Berghotel, or rustic mountain inn. They say they are open "bis" (until) September, but don't say what date, but you could ask. And there are other such hotels on the ridges above Zermatt, indeed you can make a circuit of 14 of them:
But for your purposes, you only need one----choose the one that looks the most appealing and is within an hour of two (by walking) from the center.
We have hiked to Rotstockhütte from Mürren, but not by the route Rick Steves describes (from Brig). We hiked up from Mürren, over the ridge, and into the valley where we stopped at the hut for lunch. Then returned by another route, near but not up onto Tanzbodli. It is a nice hike, but if I were choosing a hut or mountain inn for an overnight stay, I would prefer others.
For example, up from the end of the Lauterbrunnental, walking from Stechelberg, there are three Berghotels, with varying degrees of rusticity and remoteness. The names are Trachsellauenen, Hotel Tschingelhorn, and Obersteinberg (this last has no electricity; Vicky von Allmen, the owner along with her husband, is American.
One I would really like to visit is Hotel Schwartzwaldalp:
http://www.schwarzwaldalp.ch/index2.html
You could walk from either Grosse Scheidegg (above Grindelwald), First (top of the gondola out of Grindelwald), or perhaps from Meiringen. There is also a Postbus up from Meiringen.
And of course I've always wanted to visit Berggasthof Enzian, which is an hour and a half walk above Griesalp, in the Kiental (a valley between Mürren and the Kandersteg area). This one is below the Hohtürli pass mentioned by Bob_brown---not a hike I would want to do alone, as it is very steep at the top.
The Faulhorn, also mentioned by Bob, also has a Berghotel:
http://www.berghotel-faulhorn.ch/
According to the website, they are open until October.
But if you are exploring places to return with your family, I highly recommend a stay at Hotel Oeschinensee, on the beautiful lake of the same name:
www.oeschinensee.ch
This hotel is one of three Berghotels on or near the lake. It is owned and run by the Wandfluh family, and the restaurant serves wonderful food from their organic farm. Like most Berghotels, they offer single and double rooms as well as dormitory accommodations. The bathrooms are shared but are spotlessly clean and have an abundance of hot water for showers. You arrive by a hike up from Kandersteg (about 2 km and 1600 feet of climbing) or by a very old-fashioned chairlift. There is much about the place to appeal to children, including a nearby Rodelbahn (summer luge) (20-minute walk from the hotel and lake so it doesn't disturb the peace and quiet at evening).
Kandersteg could be a stop on your way between the Berner Oberland and Zermatt if you choose the route that Swandav suggested. It would mean forgoing the second half of the Golden Pass route (from Spiez on west), but you could cover that portion in your travels from Geneve to the Appenzell region.
http://www.zermatt.net/trift/de/
Not a hut, but a Berghotel, or rustic mountain inn. They say they are open "bis" (until) September, but don't say what date, but you could ask. And there are other such hotels on the ridges above Zermatt, indeed you can make a circuit of 14 of them:
But for your purposes, you only need one----choose the one that looks the most appealing and is within an hour of two (by walking) from the center.
We have hiked to Rotstockhütte from Mürren, but not by the route Rick Steves describes (from Brig). We hiked up from Mürren, over the ridge, and into the valley where we stopped at the hut for lunch. Then returned by another route, near but not up onto Tanzbodli. It is a nice hike, but if I were choosing a hut or mountain inn for an overnight stay, I would prefer others.
For example, up from the end of the Lauterbrunnental, walking from Stechelberg, there are three Berghotels, with varying degrees of rusticity and remoteness. The names are Trachsellauenen, Hotel Tschingelhorn, and Obersteinberg (this last has no electricity; Vicky von Allmen, the owner along with her husband, is American.
One I would really like to visit is Hotel Schwartzwaldalp:
http://www.schwarzwaldalp.ch/index2.html
You could walk from either Grosse Scheidegg (above Grindelwald), First (top of the gondola out of Grindelwald), or perhaps from Meiringen. There is also a Postbus up from Meiringen.
And of course I've always wanted to visit Berggasthof Enzian, which is an hour and a half walk above Griesalp, in the Kiental (a valley between Mürren and the Kandersteg area). This one is below the Hohtürli pass mentioned by Bob_brown---not a hike I would want to do alone, as it is very steep at the top.
The Faulhorn, also mentioned by Bob, also has a Berghotel:
http://www.berghotel-faulhorn.ch/
According to the website, they are open until October.
But if you are exploring places to return with your family, I highly recommend a stay at Hotel Oeschinensee, on the beautiful lake of the same name:
www.oeschinensee.ch
This hotel is one of three Berghotels on or near the lake. It is owned and run by the Wandfluh family, and the restaurant serves wonderful food from their organic farm. Like most Berghotels, they offer single and double rooms as well as dormitory accommodations. The bathrooms are shared but are spotlessly clean and have an abundance of hot water for showers. You arrive by a hike up from Kandersteg (about 2 km and 1600 feet of climbing) or by a very old-fashioned chairlift. There is much about the place to appeal to children, including a nearby Rodelbahn (summer luge) (20-minute walk from the hotel and lake so it doesn't disturb the peace and quiet at evening).
Kandersteg could be a stop on your way between the Berner Oberland and Zermatt if you choose the route that Swandav suggested. It would mean forgoing the second half of the Golden Pass route (from Spiez on west), but you could cover that portion in your travels from Geneve to the Appenzell region.
Sep 8th, 2009, 10:04 PM
#7
"Geneva- Appenzell-Luzern-Oberland-Zermatt-Lausanne"
Agree with the above. Did you know it's a 4hr 40 min. train ride to Appenzell? Thought I'd warn you.
It's all doable. I love your idea of not making reservations for flexibility. Keep an eye on the weather forecast to help you make your hiking decisions once you're here.
Use the sbb.ch website for all train schedules. Bring a smaller hiking backpack to tote raingear, water and picnic food. If you're on a budget, the hostels are clean and used by people of all ages.
Good luck and enjoy Switzerland!
Agree with the above. Did you know it's a 4hr 40 min. train ride to Appenzell? Thought I'd warn you.
It's all doable. I love your idea of not making reservations for flexibility. Keep an eye on the weather forecast to help you make your hiking decisions once you're here.
Use the sbb.ch website for all train schedules. Bring a smaller hiking backpack to tote raingear, water and picnic food. If you're on a budget, the hostels are clean and used by people of all ages.
Good luck and enjoy Switzerland!
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Sep 9th, 2009, 04:11 PM
#8
Hi again california_mom,
I may be in the minority here, but I liked Zermatt, although the allure for me was seeing the Matterhorn. It was touristy, busy, etc. (but what in these areas isn't?) but still liked it and seeing the Matterhorn made it all the more worthwhile. By the way, we didn't feel Zermatt was any more expensive than anywhere else in Switzerland. We took the Gornergrat train trip and spent a good amount of time walking down towards Zermatt (among amazing mountain scenery and constant views of the Matterhorn) before boarding the train once again. Simply fantastic.
In the BO, we stayed in Wengen. Loved every minute (4 nights and didn't want to leave). We stayed at the Hotel Eiger, which, unfortunately, is no longer a hotel.
If I had to choose either the BO or Zermatt, I'd pick the BO. Luckily I didn't have to make that choice. To sum it up... I'm glad I got to see Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
Paul
I may be in the minority here, but I liked Zermatt, although the allure for me was seeing the Matterhorn. It was touristy, busy, etc. (but what in these areas isn't?) but still liked it and seeing the Matterhorn made it all the more worthwhile. By the way, we didn't feel Zermatt was any more expensive than anywhere else in Switzerland. We took the Gornergrat train trip and spent a good amount of time walking down towards Zermatt (among amazing mountain scenery and constant views of the Matterhorn) before boarding the train once again. Simply fantastic.
In the BO, we stayed in Wengen. Loved every minute (4 nights and didn't want to leave). We stayed at the Hotel Eiger, which, unfortunately, is no longer a hotel.
If I had to choose either the BO or Zermatt, I'd pick the BO. Luckily I didn't have to make that choice. To sum it up... I'm glad I got to see Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
Paul
