Three Weeks in N. Italy and France- Trip Report
Jun 28th, 2005, 05:45 PM
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Three Weeks in N. Italy and France- Trip Report
Hello and thank you Fodorites! I just got back from a wonderful, if hot, 20 days in Venice, Varenna, Vernazza, Villefranche, Viens in Provence (all the v towns- just a coincidence), Les Baux and Paris.
I am still jet-lagged, so pardon any typos. But the veneer of the old world is fresh and we are happily tired.
I 'll begin by saying that Venice is truly magical- it was my third time, and so we just stayed for 2 nights, in a great 2Br apt (feel free to ask details) in the Dorsoduro area, not far from the train station, very quiet, spacious and we felt like locals there! Due to a miscommunication, we also stayed the Giorgione- lovely hotel, but prefer the apt. We are the types who like a certain level of comfort, but don't need luxury or 2 be pampered. in fact, places like the Danieli aren't us at all- pensiones, apartments, the accademia definitely do. It was just wonderful to wander the streets, get lost and discover hidden gems, the unexpected. We strolled through San Marco, quickly- there were so many pigeons and people- we hightailed it to some of the back streets, over across the Rialto and back to the Dosoduro (sp?). Take many pauses to look up and down the canal and of course a trip on the #1 vaporetto- we did that the second day and to not have an exact plan as to where we were going to get off, but then getting off where the Bienale is, and wanderong the wider promenade, sans tourists, was heavenly!
And the Friars church was magnificent. Our meals were fine, nothing special, but we did enjoy the area around the Giorgoine a lot. My husband did a lovely painting overlooking a quiet, small canal.
Onto Padova the third day to see a retrospective on the artist Boldini- just wonderful! Like Sargent, and an added bonus was the church there- a breathtaking, many-domed building.
We spent the next 4 nights in lovely Varenna- three at Hotel Eremo Gaudio and one at Villa Cipressi. I would def. go back and stay at Villa Cipressi anytime.For just a bit more $$ (130E), it had heaps more charm and spectacular views. It also is easier to walk to the boat and around town.
Menaggio was lovely in parts, but nothing compared to Bellagio and Varenna. Bellagio was not as touristy as I expected and had better shopping- we bought wonderful ceramic knobs for our new house. We had a very special meal at the Bilacus- thank you for the recommendation!- and stumbled upon the path to Pergola- vine-covered and magical on a rainy day. If you want to feel Como, feel northern italy, walk this path, and keep wandergin to your heart's content. We came upon a nursery and then turned around. We also loved Villa Carlotta and Meltzi, along with Villa Monastero in Varenna. 4 nights felt really good to unwind and the trains and boats were easy. More soon. Jet-lag has hit hard!
I am still jet-lagged, so pardon any typos. But the veneer of the old world is fresh and we are happily tired.
I 'll begin by saying that Venice is truly magical- it was my third time, and so we just stayed for 2 nights, in a great 2Br apt (feel free to ask details) in the Dorsoduro area, not far from the train station, very quiet, spacious and we felt like locals there! Due to a miscommunication, we also stayed the Giorgione- lovely hotel, but prefer the apt. We are the types who like a certain level of comfort, but don't need luxury or 2 be pampered. in fact, places like the Danieli aren't us at all- pensiones, apartments, the accademia definitely do. It was just wonderful to wander the streets, get lost and discover hidden gems, the unexpected. We strolled through San Marco, quickly- there were so many pigeons and people- we hightailed it to some of the back streets, over across the Rialto and back to the Dosoduro (sp?). Take many pauses to look up and down the canal and of course a trip on the #1 vaporetto- we did that the second day and to not have an exact plan as to where we were going to get off, but then getting off where the Bienale is, and wanderong the wider promenade, sans tourists, was heavenly!
And the Friars church was magnificent. Our meals were fine, nothing special, but we did enjoy the area around the Giorgoine a lot. My husband did a lovely painting overlooking a quiet, small canal.
Onto Padova the third day to see a retrospective on the artist Boldini- just wonderful! Like Sargent, and an added bonus was the church there- a breathtaking, many-domed building.
We spent the next 4 nights in lovely Varenna- three at Hotel Eremo Gaudio and one at Villa Cipressi. I would def. go back and stay at Villa Cipressi anytime.For just a bit more $$ (130E), it had heaps more charm and spectacular views. It also is easier to walk to the boat and around town.
Menaggio was lovely in parts, but nothing compared to Bellagio and Varenna. Bellagio was not as touristy as I expected and had better shopping- we bought wonderful ceramic knobs for our new house. We had a very special meal at the Bilacus- thank you for the recommendation!- and stumbled upon the path to Pergola- vine-covered and magical on a rainy day. If you want to feel Como, feel northern italy, walk this path, and keep wandergin to your heart's content. We came upon a nursery and then turned around. We also loved Villa Carlotta and Meltzi, along with Villa Monastero in Varenna. 4 nights felt really good to unwind and the trains and boats were easy. More soon. Jet-lag has hit hard!
Jun 29th, 2005, 03:17 PM
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So hopefully some of you will be reading this (is my title okay?)..
We left Varnena for The Cinque Terre and after confusion in Milan about where to buy our tickets- Varenna train station was closed on a weekday midday and we had to buy new tickets in Milan. After some scurrying around, we barely got them in time, am glad we had enough cash because they didn't take credit and we were off! The coastline looked so pretty and the crowds were big in Vernazza, but our wonderful host Giacamo (I found him online, forget how, but I am happy to pass along his e-mail and phone #) met us at the train and we headed up the hill. It was about 13 minutes straight up the hill with one heavy bag and my carry-on type slung over my shoulder. in the 80 degree weather, it was tough. I absolutely loved his place- it was our very own, next to a garden of veggies and overlooking the sea and the town, complete 2BR with a covered outdoor kitchen for 60E! I would 100% recommend this place if you are okay with a tough hike up- quiet, non-touristy and you feel much more like a local. If he got a cart, or some vehicle to help, that would be even better. Plus, he and his wife Maria, who live in town, are some of the nicest people we met on the trip- we left with a sweet bundle of lavender that Maria clipped for us. Our first full day we hiked to Corniglia- a solid 1.5 hours in strong heat and sun. The trail to Moneglia was closed so we took a train, and after exploring the sweet town, we took a boat to Portovenere, perfect for the hotter weather. I was happy to be more away from tourists, though heard that Riomaggiore was nice. I fretted so much beforehand about which town to stay in and think there's probably not a huge difference, though without water access, would not want to stay in Corniglia and Monterrosso seemed that much busier. But, no matter where Giacomo's place was, we were so happy to be there. The square in Vernazza was wonderful and one of our best meals was indeed Gambero Rosso- the best pesto ever! And the mussels were heavenly too!
I was eager to see little Moneglia, a few towns north and so one afternoon we got off, the only tourists, I think, and ventured 10 minutes or so into this very sweet town- palms lining the main street, one pedestrians only street with nice shops and a lovely big beach, with many Italian families- perfect for swimming and relaxing, and it was especially enjoyable to lok up at the 2 castles on either side of town. You can stay in one, and when we go back, I'd like to try this. More soon!
We left Varnena for The Cinque Terre and after confusion in Milan about where to buy our tickets- Varenna train station was closed on a weekday midday and we had to buy new tickets in Milan. After some scurrying around, we barely got them in time, am glad we had enough cash because they didn't take credit and we were off! The coastline looked so pretty and the crowds were big in Vernazza, but our wonderful host Giacamo (I found him online, forget how, but I am happy to pass along his e-mail and phone #) met us at the train and we headed up the hill. It was about 13 minutes straight up the hill with one heavy bag and my carry-on type slung over my shoulder. in the 80 degree weather, it was tough. I absolutely loved his place- it was our very own, next to a garden of veggies and overlooking the sea and the town, complete 2BR with a covered outdoor kitchen for 60E! I would 100% recommend this place if you are okay with a tough hike up- quiet, non-touristy and you feel much more like a local. If he got a cart, or some vehicle to help, that would be even better. Plus, he and his wife Maria, who live in town, are some of the nicest people we met on the trip- we left with a sweet bundle of lavender that Maria clipped for us. Our first full day we hiked to Corniglia- a solid 1.5 hours in strong heat and sun. The trail to Moneglia was closed so we took a train, and after exploring the sweet town, we took a boat to Portovenere, perfect for the hotter weather. I was happy to be more away from tourists, though heard that Riomaggiore was nice. I fretted so much beforehand about which town to stay in and think there's probably not a huge difference, though without water access, would not want to stay in Corniglia and Monterrosso seemed that much busier. But, no matter where Giacomo's place was, we were so happy to be there. The square in Vernazza was wonderful and one of our best meals was indeed Gambero Rosso- the best pesto ever! And the mussels were heavenly too!
I was eager to see little Moneglia, a few towns north and so one afternoon we got off, the only tourists, I think, and ventured 10 minutes or so into this very sweet town- palms lining the main street, one pedestrians only street with nice shops and a lovely big beach, with many Italian families- perfect for swimming and relaxing, and it was especially enjoyable to lok up at the 2 castles on either side of town. You can stay in one, and when we go back, I'd like to try this. More soon!
Jun 29th, 2005, 03:36 PM
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Our last day, we took the train to Camogli, as we were also excited to see this town and do the hike to Portofino. We checked out the town, which was absolutely packed on a Saturday and had one of many wonderful gelatos and stumbled upon the most magical church of our trip- again, the unexpected is what makes it for me and if you at all like chandeliers, this church will blow you away- they are everywhere- ceilings, walls, and it's not too much- perfec with all of the gold and absolutely transporting! it was in the high 80's or so, so we took the boat to San Fruttuoso, halfway to Portofino and began our hike there. I expected more charm in SF and would not go back, but the hike was wonderful, if a bit hard. the first 30 minutes are all up hill and about an hour in we came across a wild boar! Our hearts definitely raced- we had no clue what to do- he was right on the path ahead of us- we got sticks, waited for him to head into the woods, and quickly passed. this reminds me, I should look up what to do upon coming across a wild boar! Descending into Portofino was spectacular- the villas, the views, so nice to really feel the place. It was indeed glitzy- the yachts practically overtook the sweet harbor and the outfits were something- Beverly Hills meets Italy, but we found a casual restaurant and enjoyed a Nicoise- very good, which I cannot say about all our other Italian salads. At this place they used darker greens and and better dressing. It was not too crowded either. Our only mistake was that we missed the bus connection- the next one wasn't leaving for another hour and by this time it was 9pm! The taxi wouldn't budge on his 40E price so we decided to walk and see if we could hitchhike. My husband was willing to pay the 40E for 5K to the train station, but it felt like rape to me, so we walked to a little village, 20 minutes away and got a ride with a very nice Peruvian! I would not do this alone or even with another woman, but with my husband it was totally fine. He was very, very nice and would not accept $$. More soon!
Jul 20th, 2005, 11:37 AM
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My goodness, it's been awhile.. but I did want to post more (hope someone is reading!) We had a fairly easy ride to Nice the next day, except that there seemed to be 2 ways to get there. We opted for first class as my DH didn't feel well- not much of a difference, a bit roomier and cleaner. The a.c. was still very weak! Making your own fans is the way to go. We got a nice Renault rental car, complete with very modern key card- no ket just a card you slide in and out and a button in the car to press start and stop- confusing, not recommended for anyone over 45! The drive to Villefranche was tough- got lost on one-way streets. The Piratee du Fiancee was our destination- clean but so-so rooms, good for the price, 80 euros/night. The parking is tough, right off the busy Moyenne Corniche. I really thought Villefranche was more like a quaint village- it is a very big town, with cruise ships in the harbor- big ones! Cap Ferrat has that small-town village atmosphere and we saw a few places that didn't look expensive. Loved the 2 beaches there and the Villa Euphressi- just stunning! I was so happy to stumble on a smoothy stand- a first on our trip- so healthy and refreshing! And they have informal places to eat crepes and pizza and such. I would def. not stay in Villefranche again. On the day we left, we went to Eze bright and early- got there about 8:45 and journeyed up. We were literally the first ones to go to the gorgeous desert garden (you have to pay) on the very top- just spectacular views and a soothing place to wander around. The female sculptures were graceful and inspiring. I could see how it could feel touristy later in the day. But Eze is special. It was June 21 and thus Fete de La Musique in all of France- music is played in all the towns and it is just incredible. I enjoyed it 10 years ago in Nice and this time we were in Apt in Provence with French friends. We danced to country western (bizarre!), wandered 2 minutes to take in some jazz and then a few more where spirited 20 somethings were drumming. Everyone was out and the air filled with sweet music- this should be a world wide tradition! Our time in Provence was filled with visits to Roussillon (definitely go there- the most unique town and touristy but not in an annoying way), Gordes, Joucas (very special little town), Lacoste, Menerbes, Isle Sur La Sorge (though the waterways were nice, I could have skipped it) and the most incredile huge market in Carpentras- it overtook the town and was so fun, though parking was a nightmare!! Be patient, it is worth it. More soon. Back to work!
