Trip report: 2 Amazing weeks in N/Central Italy
Jul 11th, 2003, 06:49 PM
#21
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Oh, please hurry and get to the Cinque Terre, or as we now refer to it, the "Cinque Terror"! Unfortunately, we DROVE there. It was suicidal. So far, we've shared so many similar experiences, I've been reading your report aloud to my husband as we listen to Andrea Bocelli!!! We're back in bella Italia!
Jul 12th, 2003, 05:17 AM
#23
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p.s. (apologies) As I read a bit further, your description of arriving in Venice requires that I say that just last night I watched "Summertime" because I was feeling nostalgic about Katharine Hepburn. Well, if it's been awhile since you've watched that oldie, you must rent it now. I'd forgotten how beautiful a movie it is!! and her arrival in Venice sounds a bit like yours! J.
Jul 13th, 2003, 05:07 AM
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Reserved (Reserva) wines are the wineries' best wines. Specially selected grapes from the best vines, aged longer, etc.
Most of the prominent wine-producing countries have rules regulating minimum standards (in terms of aging duration, how they are aged, etc.) for reserved wines, others just leave it up to the winery to put the Reserva label on whatever they think is their best wine.
Just because one producer's label says Reserved on it, doesn't mean that it's necessarily better than another producer's regular wine.
Most of the prominent wine-producing countries have rules regulating minimum standards (in terms of aging duration, how they are aged, etc.) for reserved wines, others just leave it up to the winery to put the Reserva label on whatever they think is their best wine.
Just because one producer's label says Reserved on it, doesn't mean that it's necessarily better than another producer's regular wine.
Jul 13th, 2003, 04:37 PM
#26
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The Cinque Terre, Finally!-- a place I've wanted to go since a quick glimpse at a magazine photo years ago. I wish I had gone then!
The train from Pisa was direct and quick,does stop and picked up a ton of people in La Spezia. We stayed in the southernmost town of Riomaggiore. The train was packed and when it got into the station our train car was still in the tunnel. Someone told us it was the Riomaggiore stop (The station is much smaller than the train) and you open your own door and people file out into the tunnel and walk along it towards the sunshine!
Alert: As we were getting off the train a young woman stopped in front of me and kept bouncing back in forth in front of the exit like she was looking for someone (looking out of the train). I finally had enough and pushed past her with my bags (backpack on shoulder and carrying my rolly bag). My husband had gotten a few people back from me while we were exiting the train. As we got to the station he grabbed me and the backpack and we realized it had been completely unzipped! Apparently the young woman was delaying me so her cohort behind me could get in the bag. Fortunately our guardian angel was still with us because I had a wallet near the front of the bag and it and everything else was safe! nothing was taken thank goodness, probably a matter of seconds! So keep your wits about you! I was very cautious in the larger cities but started relaxing in Tuscany and had let my guard down.
The Cinque TErre is lovely to view, bright blue water, boats, sunshine, cliffs, etc. We had booked a room with Edy's rooms--fine, clean, simple, 52 euro with private bath. In hindsight I'd pay an extra 20 euro or more to get one of their rooms/apt with a balcony or sea view. Dropped our bags and went out wandering.
Riomaggiore was much more busy than I expected after reading it's one of the less touristy towns. The main street had some great shops, groceries, a tabacchi, bars and restaurants. Walked down to the harbor and dicussed why so many people would sunbathe lying on hard jagged rocks! Decide to take the easy path of the Amore trail from Riomaggiore to Manarola. A quick stroll and we were there, breathtaking views and lots of sunshine! Not a whole lot going on here, one hotel, maybe one restaurant we saw. Then we got ambitious and walked to Corniglia. The trail takes you into the station at the bottom of the city. At this point we didn't feel like walking all the way up to the town. We had our Cinque TErre card so hopped on the next train back to Riomaggiore.
While Riomaggiore seemed ok at first, it's reputation as a smaller/less americanized town must have attracted those looking for cheaper rooms. 20 yr old back packers were everywhere. There were more tourists than restaurants, we had a hard time finding a place to eat, finally got a pizza off the main Via Columbo that was quite good actually. Lunch the next day was a similar experience and I think some of the restaurants are only in biz because of supply & demand, it certainly wasn't the service or food!
Started the day early with a train N to MOnterossa-what a difference. Much larger town with beach chairs and a real beach! We started the hike there. It can no longer be referred to as a walk. Very uphill, I should have cut back on the wine the night before! It was very safe and pretty empty at 9 in the morning. And the "amazing" views at every turn were worth every gasp! Be sure to bring some bottled water though! After about 1.5 hours got to Vernazza, as you hike around the corner it's a postcard perfect picture! Stopped here for some water and a quick rest, decided it was the place to come back to that evening to explore and have dinner! Then another tougher hike to Corniglia, great little bar way up on the way there--beautiful view of the town and a good place to replenish with water or gatorade. Jumped back on the train to Riomaggiore, had lunch and rested up. That afternoon we finally checked out a bar we saw just opposite the town on the other side of the train station "VIni Bar" I think. You actually start towards the Amore trail and it's on the edge of the cliff before you have to show your pass. This was our favorite spot: a perfect view, self service affordable bar with drinks and bruschetta. We stopped in for one and left 2 hours later with big smiles!!
That evening we trained to Vernazza and would recommend staying there. A larger prettier town with more choices for restaurants, more stores and less backpackers hanging out everywhere. (Nothing against backpackers, but after Tuscany the whole area was just too touristy).
We had a wonderful dinner experience at Il Castello. The food was ok, but the service and view was spectacular! We were trying to conserve euros so as not to hit another cash station but they said they could not accept a cred card. DH told them we have no cash, thinking that Aha! They'll accept a cred card now! The owner (Monica I think?) came up and was lovely and gracious and told us to just come back tomorrow and pay the bill. Huh? Too sweet! We told her we had to get to Milan tomorrow and she said ok, just mail her the money from the States. Wow! How refreshing! We did pay her then, feeling like jerks, but were amazed by her graciousness and ability to stay in business!
Walked arourd the town and really enjoyed it, another nice beach area. Caught the train back to Riomaggiore about 11pm.
Last day: up and to Milan before we fly home.... and still not even close to being ready to leave. I need more vacation time!
The train from Pisa was direct and quick,does stop and picked up a ton of people in La Spezia. We stayed in the southernmost town of Riomaggiore. The train was packed and when it got into the station our train car was still in the tunnel. Someone told us it was the Riomaggiore stop (The station is much smaller than the train) and you open your own door and people file out into the tunnel and walk along it towards the sunshine!
Alert: As we were getting off the train a young woman stopped in front of me and kept bouncing back in forth in front of the exit like she was looking for someone (looking out of the train). I finally had enough and pushed past her with my bags (backpack on shoulder and carrying my rolly bag). My husband had gotten a few people back from me while we were exiting the train. As we got to the station he grabbed me and the backpack and we realized it had been completely unzipped! Apparently the young woman was delaying me so her cohort behind me could get in the bag. Fortunately our guardian angel was still with us because I had a wallet near the front of the bag and it and everything else was safe! nothing was taken thank goodness, probably a matter of seconds! So keep your wits about you! I was very cautious in the larger cities but started relaxing in Tuscany and had let my guard down.
The Cinque TErre is lovely to view, bright blue water, boats, sunshine, cliffs, etc. We had booked a room with Edy's rooms--fine, clean, simple, 52 euro with private bath. In hindsight I'd pay an extra 20 euro or more to get one of their rooms/apt with a balcony or sea view. Dropped our bags and went out wandering.
Riomaggiore was much more busy than I expected after reading it's one of the less touristy towns. The main street had some great shops, groceries, a tabacchi, bars and restaurants. Walked down to the harbor and dicussed why so many people would sunbathe lying on hard jagged rocks! Decide to take the easy path of the Amore trail from Riomaggiore to Manarola. A quick stroll and we were there, breathtaking views and lots of sunshine! Not a whole lot going on here, one hotel, maybe one restaurant we saw. Then we got ambitious and walked to Corniglia. The trail takes you into the station at the bottom of the city. At this point we didn't feel like walking all the way up to the town. We had our Cinque TErre card so hopped on the next train back to Riomaggiore.
While Riomaggiore seemed ok at first, it's reputation as a smaller/less americanized town must have attracted those looking for cheaper rooms. 20 yr old back packers were everywhere. There were more tourists than restaurants, we had a hard time finding a place to eat, finally got a pizza off the main Via Columbo that was quite good actually. Lunch the next day was a similar experience and I think some of the restaurants are only in biz because of supply & demand, it certainly wasn't the service or food!
Started the day early with a train N to MOnterossa-what a difference. Much larger town with beach chairs and a real beach! We started the hike there. It can no longer be referred to as a walk. Very uphill, I should have cut back on the wine the night before! It was very safe and pretty empty at 9 in the morning. And the "amazing" views at every turn were worth every gasp! Be sure to bring some bottled water though! After about 1.5 hours got to Vernazza, as you hike around the corner it's a postcard perfect picture! Stopped here for some water and a quick rest, decided it was the place to come back to that evening to explore and have dinner! Then another tougher hike to Corniglia, great little bar way up on the way there--beautiful view of the town and a good place to replenish with water or gatorade. Jumped back on the train to Riomaggiore, had lunch and rested up. That afternoon we finally checked out a bar we saw just opposite the town on the other side of the train station "VIni Bar" I think. You actually start towards the Amore trail and it's on the edge of the cliff before you have to show your pass. This was our favorite spot: a perfect view, self service affordable bar with drinks and bruschetta. We stopped in for one and left 2 hours later with big smiles!!
That evening we trained to Vernazza and would recommend staying there. A larger prettier town with more choices for restaurants, more stores and less backpackers hanging out everywhere. (Nothing against backpackers, but after Tuscany the whole area was just too touristy).
We had a wonderful dinner experience at Il Castello. The food was ok, but the service and view was spectacular! We were trying to conserve euros so as not to hit another cash station but they said they could not accept a cred card. DH told them we have no cash, thinking that Aha! They'll accept a cred card now! The owner (Monica I think?) came up and was lovely and gracious and told us to just come back tomorrow and pay the bill. Huh? Too sweet! We told her we had to get to Milan tomorrow and she said ok, just mail her the money from the States. Wow! How refreshing! We did pay her then, feeling like jerks, but were amazed by her graciousness and ability to stay in business!
Walked arourd the town and really enjoyed it, another nice beach area. Caught the train back to Riomaggiore about 11pm.
Last day: up and to Milan before we fly home.... and still not even close to being ready to leave. I need more vacation time!
Jul 14th, 2003, 09:19 AM
#27
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and Sadness, we finally reached our last evening/night in Italia! We took the train from Riomaggiore through Genoa to Milan. It was def. worth the stop overnight in Milan, we had almost not bothered based on advice from others. The metro from the train station is easy and quick. Even for a day stop, you can check your bags, hop on the Metro for 1 euro and be at the Duomo in about 5 minutes.
We stayed at Hotel Speronari, right of the Duomo Piazza. A nice clean hotel and in perfect location for only 88 euro. 3 flights of stairs, somehow we always end up on the top floor!
The Milan Cathedral blew my mind. The church was beautiful, the most amazing church I have ever seen, we also took the elevator up to walk on the roof! DH said it comes in second to Westminster Abbey. So I guess I'll have to see that some day to see if I agree. Do you?
Walked through the Galleria and down towards the fountain and the Sforza castle. This square and shopping district was great but most of Milan seemed very industrial and had lots of graffiti. The one afternoon/evening was perfect. Had dinner at a ristorante (Brunos?) a few blocks behind our hotel, spiffy waiters, great antipasta bar, good food and great service. Our first meat that was not overcooked!
Wandered a bit that night, enjoyed this section of the city. Got up early and took the metro to the Malpensa bus at Milan Centrale. Easily got out to the airport (against rush hour traffic) and got our flight back to reality!
We've always said that there is so much of the world to see we would not go back to any place we've already been. Tuscany got us. Dh and I both agree we will go back some day!
Bella Italia! Ciao!
Eileen
We stayed at Hotel Speronari, right of the Duomo Piazza. A nice clean hotel and in perfect location for only 88 euro. 3 flights of stairs, somehow we always end up on the top floor!
The Milan Cathedral blew my mind. The church was beautiful, the most amazing church I have ever seen, we also took the elevator up to walk on the roof! DH said it comes in second to Westminster Abbey. So I guess I'll have to see that some day to see if I agree. Do you?
Walked through the Galleria and down towards the fountain and the Sforza castle. This square and shopping district was great but most of Milan seemed very industrial and had lots of graffiti. The one afternoon/evening was perfect. Had dinner at a ristorante (Brunos?) a few blocks behind our hotel, spiffy waiters, great antipasta bar, good food and great service. Our first meat that was not overcooked!
Wandered a bit that night, enjoyed this section of the city. Got up early and took the metro to the Malpensa bus at Milan Centrale. Easily got out to the airport (against rush hour traffic) and got our flight back to reality!
We've always said that there is so much of the world to see we would not go back to any place we've already been. Tuscany got us. Dh and I both agree we will go back some day!
Bella Italia! Ciao!
Eileen
Jan 30th, 2004, 02:14 AM
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I stumbled across this great report the other night but didn't take much notice of the title. It's just taken me about an hour to find it again and wanted to bring it to the top for others to benefit.
Jan 30th, 2004, 12:10 PM
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e_roz, hubby found your "novelette"; we've both learned alot. Your recounting of what was surely a FABULOUS honeymoon will help us in planning our trip for this July. Will be flying in/out Rome, so if anyone has any ideas/info, we're open to suggestion. Have time to re-work our itinerary. Thanks again e_roz,& to
anyone else who might respond.
anyone else who might respond.
