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Whirlwind birthday trip - 4 days in London

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Whirlwind birthday trip - 4 days in London

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Old Dec 13th, 2023, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by raincitygirl
I am looking forward to what you thought of Chanel also. I saw the Dior exhibit there in 2019 I think it was and it was much better. The Chanel exhibit had some beautiful clothes,my favourite was the room with all the suits, but whoever did the lighting for the exhibit should get the sack and what was with the pokey sort of boxes for rooms they had at the beginning where it got very crowded and the lighting was so bad you couldnt really see properly.
Not well executed.
I'll post more later today but in ways I agree with you about Chanel -- I did REALLY enjoy it - especially the 'suits room' (nothing at all to do with Meghan M's 'Suits' ) and the grand staircase. But I did have issues with the lighting - and places where it almost seemed they inserted unneeded strips of light so it was impossible to take good photos.

I'd rank them as 1) the McQueen - fantabulous over the top terrific great; 2) Dior - pretty darned fantabulous; 3) Chanel close to fantabulous and mostly remarkable for the sheer length of her career and how modern her earliest styles still look today.

I couldn't fit the catalogue into my teeny tiny suitcase - but ordered it and should be delivered in a couple of days. Postage actually was more than the price of the book.
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Old Dec 13th, 2023, 11:31 AM
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Happy birthday! Sounds like a wonderful trip.
I'd love to see the Frans Hals exhibit.

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Old Dec 13th, 2023, 11:53 AM
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And me, I’m waiting for the promised not-so-good day. Love to see how Janisj handles different ‘situations!’

^^^”Had the best time for three days - one day . . . not so much.”^^^
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Old Dec 13th, 2023, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by stokebailey
. . . I'd love to see the Frans Hals exhibit.
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Me too

Originally Posted by nyse
And me, I’m waiting for the promised not-so-good day. Love to see how Janisj handles different ‘situations!’

^^^”Had the best time for three days - one day . . . not so much.”^^^
Have to wait for Saturday's entry . . .
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Old Dec 13th, 2023, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by janisj
Me too



Have to wait for Saturday's entry . . .
I can be very patient ~ thank you⭐️
(But I see the forewarning here)

Last edited by nyse; Dec 13th, 2023 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Dec 13th, 2023, 02:30 PM
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Dec 1. Hours at the V&A ( Chanel, Diva, lunch and more), Peter Pan Goes Wrong, the River Restaurant, and lots of pre-birthday birthday 'stuff'.

Fri and Sat are the BIG days. Friday is the fanciest and Saturday the busiest.

Like my last 5+ visits -- never once opened my umbrella. Only rain was when I was at LHR on Sunday waiting for my flight. So my luck held and today was brilliant sunshine and the warmest dat of all - my guess it was close to 50°F by the time I made it to South Kensington.

Had tea and juice in my room and headed out on the tube about 9:15. Stopped for breakfast at the Farm Girl on the pedestrianized Exhibition Rd halfway between S. Kens tube station and the V&A. It was a simple poached eggs, toast, bacon, tea and OJ but really well cooked and the staff was very friendly (Be careful if you stop there -- there is a step directly inside the door - I can imagine there have been a few tumbles. ) I didn't want to get to the V&A until 15 or 20 minutes after it opened - at opening is really the only time there is ever a queue to get in. So my timing was perfect. Made my way to the Chanel exhibition - the Members line was very short and I was inside in just a minute or two. I did describe some of my reaction a few posts ^^^. But I don't want anyone to think I didn't enjoy it. It was really terrific -- just maybe not quite as terrific TERRIFIC as the McQueen a few years ago. The show is partly laid out chronologically - first hats in 1910 then clothing starting from 1913 all the way 1970; and partly by type -- miles and miles of suits in one room, lots of evening gowns in another, jewelry in another, another for perfume/cosmetics. Many photos to follow. I spent more than 1½ hours inside then went to the 'Diva' exhibition.

This is much smaller but also fairly crowded - again being a member I didn't need to book ahead. Lots of famous and iconic costumes -- from Sarah Bernhardt to Mary Pickford, to Marilyn Monroe to Cher and Beyonce. Burlesque to famous movies to grand opera to pop stars. it really was quite fun.

Then went up to lunch in the Members Room. Because the Chanel exhibition is a total sell out for the run - the only way to get in (except for a few 'day of' tix released early each morning) is to become a member. Therefore -- just like during McQueen and Dior -- the place was absolutely slammed. All these brand new members wanting to squeeze every little bit of benefit they can out of what may be their only ever visit to London/the V&A. The queue to get in (never more than one or two people and usually no one at all) extended all the way back to the elevators -- probably 40+ people. But it did move and eventually I got a table in the lounge area. Had soup & bread, and duck ragout
pappardelle plus champagne and tea. Needed a substantial lunch because dinner won't be until very late tonight.

Then went up to the furniture galleries, then to silver and jewelry and spent some time in the gift shop before heading back to the hotel to re-group, re-charge and change clothes.

My late afternoon consists of the American Bar, Peter Pan, the River Restaurant and shutting down the Beaufort Bar - - - and I'm dressing to the nines! A killer Cinq à Sept, way over-the--top embellished blazer and silk trousers - nothin' I'd wear to Applebee's for sure Went down to the American Bar and had a cocktail and a few nibbles. Decided it was nice enough out that I'd walk to the Lyceum theatre over on Shaftsbury. Strolled through the Christmas market in Trafalgar Square, bough a bag of roasted chestnuts and arrived at the theatre just as they opened the doors. Had a prosecco and ordered a sparkling water for the interval.

Peter Pan Goes Wrong is by the same company as the hysterical The Play That Goes Wrong . . . and it is even funnier, more hysterical with more crazy physical humour. It is absolutely crazy. Magical really. I honestly don't know how they avoid serious injury! Isn't a pantomime as such but definitely filled the panto box in my Christmas traditions.

Stumbled out of the theatre still laughing and knew the chance of getting a cab were slim to none. Started the walk back and thought I'd maybe jump in one of those pedal jitneys from Leicester Square . . . uh - no (!) - It's maybe 600-700 yards and he wanted £40. uh - hell no - this may be a splurge evening but that is ridiculous. Its a nice evening - the walk will do me good.

My booking in the River Restaurant is for 10:45 ad I walked in the door of the Savoy at 10:30. Went briefly up to the room to freshen my makeup/read e-mails etc. and was back downstairs in about 10 mins. Went to the Beaufort Bar (right next door to the restaurant) to ask if I needed to book a table for after dinner -- he said since I'm resident probably not necessary but he'd book me a table for midnight just in case. . . . then in to the beautiful River Restaurant by Gordon Ramsay. Wonderful service and really good food. I had a glass of Champagne and as a starter probably the best scallop dish I've ever tasted. Then for the main I had half a lobster (No- not half a massive Maine lobster -- more like a crayfish on steroids ) with chips and salad. really yummy. Was quite full but wanted a small dessert so ordered two scoops of ice cream/sorbet. I did not tell them it was my birthday (well, it actually wasn't - that is tomorrow) -- but the ice cream came with a chocolate sauce calligraphy Happy Birthday on the plate. Mid dessert, the host of the Beaufort Bar can to the table to ask if I still wanted my table there and I said yes.

A few minutes later I walked in and was greeted by name and taken to a banquette booth in the otherwise totally full Beaufort Bar. I ordered a decaf espresso martini (sort of a 2nd dessert). As I was finishing and signaling for my check the waiter came over with two fancy cakes, more chocolate calligraphy, said "It's my birthday too". and said the drink was on the house! I had no cash on me so couldn't even tip him but asked the host his name (he had told me when I was seated but the music was loud enough that I didn't catch what he said). I left an envelope for him with the Bell Staff when checking out the next day. Floated up to my room and once again slept like a baby . . .

Next: Sat, Dec. 2 -- the the near perfect last day in London . . . that wasn't
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Old Dec 13th, 2023, 02:49 PM
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the oldest known garment still in existence - 1914



From the '20's - looks like last year



Mid-20's



Early 20's - so modern



entirely leather and totally amazing



I want!!! - from the early 30's





As far as the eye can see . . .






Detail of above






Gorgeous coat - crappy reflections



Opera capes (there was an identical one in black but getting a photo was just about impossible)











Three icons






The very first No. 5 - 1921


Early ad












Her own little black dress
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Old Dec 13th, 2023, 02:56 PM
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From the Diva exhibition:



Now -- THAT is a corset . . .



Theda Bara


Josephine Baker


Carole Lombard



Leontyne Price



Margo Channing/Bette Davis from All About Eve



Joan Crawford in Mildred Pierce



Elizabeth Taylor as Cleo


Marilyn Monroe's 'shimmy' dress from Some Like it Hot

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Old Dec 13th, 2023, 03:00 PM
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And dinner . . .

Best scallops ever



Lobster & chips



B'day ice cream



Beaufort Bar espresso martini



Beaufort Bar version of Happy Birthday
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Old Dec 13th, 2023, 04:12 PM
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Hey where’s the pic of you in your Cinq a Sept? I like their clothes but don’t wear trousers except jeans once in awhile.

What a lovely gesture at the Beaufort Bar (I’ve been to the American Bar)

it happened to me at my dinner in Zurich- fancy hotel, French restaurant. The calligraphy, the opera cake , even singing waiters in a Michelin star restaurant!
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Old Dec 13th, 2023, 11:14 PM
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Loving the report and pictures. The food looks amazing and exactly what I would have ordered.
And as for that beyond stunning Carole Lombard dress ………
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Old Dec 14th, 2023, 04:07 PM
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Sat, Dec. 2 -- the the near perfect last day in London . . . that wasn't

Okay -- here is my schedule for Saturday:

8-ish - 9:00-ish - pack
10:00 -11:00 - late breakfast in the River Restaurant
11:00 - Noon-ish final putzing around, check out, leave bag with bell captain, enjoy last visit to the Reading Room
1PM Frans Hals @ the National Gallery
2:30 - 3 PM cocktails @ Ochre in the National Gallery
3:30 - 5:30 PM Hockney and explore the newly remodeled National Portrait Gallery
5:30 - 7 PM Pre-theatre dinner in the Portrait Restaurant
7:30 - 9:45 PM Frank & Percy @ the Other Palace with pre-paid prosecco
10 PM back to hotel to collect bag
10:30 PM Justairports out to LHR
11:30 PM check in to Holiday Inn Express LHR T-4

Phew -- busy but what a great day!

Unfortunately what I ended up with was:

8-ish - 9:00-ish - pack
10:00 -10:15- partial breakfast in the River Restaurant
10:15 - 2 PM back in bed - granted late check out til 2PM

1PM Frans Hals @ the National Gallery
2 - 3:30 PM Lounging in the Reading Room
2:30 - 3 PM cocktails @ Ochre in the National Gallery
3:30 - 5:30 PM Hockney and explore the newly remodeled National Portrait Gallery
5:30 - 7 PM Pre-theatre dinner in the Portrait Restaurant
7:30 - 9:45 PM Frank & Percy @ the Other Palace with pre-paid prosecco

10 PM back to hotel to collect bag
3:30 PM Justairports out to LHR
5 PM check in to Holiday Inn Express LHR T-4

I slept well, but when I woke up about 6:30 I just didn't feel right -- not covid-ish, not respiratory but my heart seemed to be racing, wasn't nauseous - hard to explain. It almost felt like mega jet lag / no sleep / light headed. I am pretty much healthy as a horse and except for a couple of sinus infections years ago, have never been sick when visiting London. I was thinking - should I go to A&E (emergency room). Slowly felt just a little better so went down to breakfast. Ordered tea, orange juice and an avocado toast with poached eggs. It was a gorgeous presentation -- but two bites in and I knew it was a no go.

Went back up to my room -- phoned down to the front desk asking for a late check out (its normally noon) - they said they'd check and see what was possible -- phoned back to say they could stretch it til 2PM w/o charge. Called Justairports to see if they could move my booking up to the afternoon -- 3:30 would work but it will cost an extra £15 because it is during the Congestion Charge. I didn't care - if I was going to be unwell, I'd want it to be in the Heathrow hotel room, not hanging around the Savoy public spaces. I went back to bed -- got up a few times with all I can describe is dry heaves -- I still wasn't nauseous though. Very weird. I basically slept til 1:30 PM. Freshened up, went downstairs. I had a great stalls ticket for Frank & Percy (which really was the main reason I was even IN London today 😢 ) and pre paid prosecco -- I'd hate for it to go to waste. I spoke to the Bell captain and along with leaving an envelope for my Beaufort Bar waiter from last night, offered the theatre ticket to any member of staff. They had the perfect person in mind -- and walked with me over to one of the lobby staff (the two guys are likely security but look like high level executives). He was absolutely thrilled.

I waited first in the Reading Room -- but it got really crowded so eventually spent the last 20 minutes waiting for Justairports in the lounge seating near the front desk and Boodles (WOW -- I've been in some high end jewelers both in the States and London -- but Boodles had more glitz than most any of them) My heart wasn't really racing much any more, no more throbbing in my ears, and the head spinning had gone away but I still felt off. Driver arrived right on time and took me out to the HIE at LHR. I picked up some snacks in the gift shop - nibbled and went to bed about 7:30PM still feeling ooogggiyy - and wondering how I'd manage on the long haul tomorrow. Luckily it isn't until 1:30 PM so I'd have time to make other plans if I was sick in the morning . . . slept from about 8PM straight through to about 7AM . . . And DAMN DAMN double DAMN -- woke up felling 100% terrific. No head ache, no head spinning, no pulse thumping in my ears . . . nada. Even felt good enough to eat the crappy free HIE breakfast buffet. Truly felt absolutely 100% normal. I'll never know what it was -- delayed jet lag, a 24 hour 'bug' whatever ??? All I know it ruined what could have been a glorious day. I even considered it could have been a hangover -- but don't think that was it. I'd had a fair amount to drink between lunch, the American Bar, the play, dinner, and Beaufort Bar - but it was spread out over nearly twelve hours and all except the Amer. Bar were with food. So I'm positive it wasn't due to over indulging.

Took the tube to Terminal 3 and visited the Cathay Pacific Lounge (the best One World Lounge at LHR IMO. Great flight, good food, Flagship Lounge at DFW, decent flight to SMF, and no issue driving home. No holdover issues of any sort . . . I guess it will always be a mystery


One last observation -- London was absolutely packed and the Savoy even more so! When I stayed there in Dec '21 the hotel was only about half to 2/3 open - there were no masses of people in the public spaces. The Thames Foyer was busy with afternoon teas, but the Reading Room never had more than 4 or 5 people in it, there was always seating in the lobby, etc. Just a very relaxed/genteel/refined atmosphere . . . Well this time the place is a hive of activity. It is truly great that things have rebounded so well but with all the parties booked, special events, masses of people in every corner of the public rooms -- it was just a bit frenetic. Didn't seem to affect service in anyway - friendly, helpful and efficient in all ways. And none of that affected the bedrooms -- my room could not have been quieter/more comfortable. I hope to stay at the Savoy again some time but i'd re-think visiting over the holiday period - it is just soooooo popular and soooooo busy.



Last edited by janisj; Dec 14th, 2023 at 04:47 PM.
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Old Dec 14th, 2023, 04:17 PM
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Wow, sounds great except for the last day. Wonder if it was something you ate? Food poisoning can be tough but over in 24 hours. Our older son’s appendix burst in Paris when he was 16 and he ended up a week in the hospital. It’s scary but he got great care.

I think the V&A is one of my favorite museums anywhere. Seen some great shows-Frieda Kahlo and Balenciaga.

Last edited by macdogmom; Dec 14th, 2023 at 04:21 PM.
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Old Dec 14th, 2023, 04:38 PM
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The pix were astounding! I'm saving up for the Savoy.
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Old Dec 14th, 2023, 08:43 PM
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Great report and pictures, but oh man...so sorry to hear about that last day! I remember that when you found out about that show, that is what instigated this trip. I agree, might have been food poisoning, since that can be pretty awful but not long lasting.
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Old Dec 15th, 2023, 02:51 AM
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Oh man. So sorry, j! Glad you pulled out of it.
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Old Dec 15th, 2023, 06:31 AM
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It's horrible being ill when far from home.
I remember a really bad bout of food poisoning when holidaying in Florida a few years ago. I was convinced I'd end up on a drip in hospital!
Really enjoyed reading your trip report. I thought I was organised but you are in another league.
You must return to North Yorkshire soon!
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Old Dec 15th, 2023, 07:26 AM
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So sorry your trip ended this way ~ I imagined your ‘not so good’ day involving a train delay or an annoying fire alarm, not this day of total misery.
But you handled everything you needed to and still had three wonderful birthday days in London ~ not so shabby ⭐️
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Old Dec 15th, 2023, 08:00 AM
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Thanks everyone -- if I had felt even a teensy bit better I might have considered sticking it out because I really wanted t see the changes at the National Portrait Gallery, eat again at their restaurant -- its always been a favorite but apparently has been elevated both in decor and food under Richard Corrigan. And of course I was really REALLY looking forward to Frank & Percy. But I know I made the right decision. I slept til early afternoon, nodded off a couple of times on the drive out to LHR and then practically slept the clock around at the HIE. So what ever it was that 'cured' me, sleep was involved.

Morgana: I was hoping to do a Borders/Yorkshire/Peak District trip either next May or early Sept with my cousin but she has had a medical crisis and most likely will not be able to travel in future. So I'll have to re-think things. A friend has been dropping hints about going on one of my trips . . . but while she's a lovely lady - I'm sure if we traveled together I'd end up having to kill her So I'm weighing all my options . . .

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Old Dec 15th, 2023, 09:04 AM
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What a fabulous TR and food photos are outstanding. Your room looked ever so elegant/sumptuous. I vicariously enjoyed all the activities you were able to pack in. I am impressed by your ability to make your way around the vast city of London so easily. That in itself is a feat.

I totally felt your pain on your final day. Being sick away from home and alone in another country, is frightening to say the least. You handled it so well. I fell sick in Paris on return day to Chicago last month which turned out to be Covid. That was a more than miserable day getting to the airport and then 8 agonizing hours on the plane. I kissed my walls when I finally got home. You made the right decision to forego the day and really fortunate that “sleep cure” worked for whatever reason, allowing a comfortable journey home. Can’t wait to read about your next adventure!




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