Who’s in charge of continents?
Oct 26th, 2010, 05:16 AM
#81
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I am sorry that the tone of the reports are indicating we are not having a good time, we are. Happy is not funny. It is a most fascinating and varied country. We have about 10 more days in Turkey including a week in Istanbul and two days on the Isle of Chios. I think we packed too much
That road to the hotel is death defying, however and today it rained.
When we have more time, I will write more. I think we packed too much into our trip and we did not leave enough time to watch the world walk by and let thoughts simmer.
That road to the hotel is death defying, however and today it rained.
When we have more time, I will write more. I think we packed too much into our trip and we did not leave enough time to watch the world walk by and let thoughts simmer.
Oct 26th, 2010, 09:29 AM
#82
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Stick with it, guys...you have a memorable week in Istanbul coming up. Look over those notes I diligently worked up to send you, what seems like a year ago..will help make the Istanbul portion easier to plan, day by day.
Both OC and I are much relieved that you are in touch with the outside world once again. Now we can go back to giving you a nasty time!
stu
Both OC and I are much relieved that you are in touch with the outside world once again. Now we can go back to giving you a nasty time!
stu
Oct 28th, 2010, 10:07 PM
#84
Oh this is teriffic! Just stumbled across it and it's made my day. Thanks Adu.
" Her voice is so high pitched unidentifiable Turkish animals appear at the windows in search of a mate." Now I know what happened to my lovely Mother-in-law after she died. She was reincarnated as a music teacher & went to Turkey.
" Her voice is so high pitched unidentifiable Turkish animals appear at the windows in search of a mate." Now I know what happened to my lovely Mother-in-law after she died. She was reincarnated as a music teacher & went to Turkey.
Oct 31st, 2010, 08:39 AM
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Travel Days Interrupted By Sightseeing
____________________________________
We wish to publicly thank Otherchelebi, his gracious daughter and her boy friend for their generous and warm hospitality. We had a home cooked meal in his apartment which overlooked the spectacular fireworks on the Bosporus for Republic Day, followed by a private guided tour Istanbul the following day. (Details in the next report.)
Thank you again.
_______________________________________________-
We are fine and were not effected by the bombing even though we were in Taksim Square yesterday. Anybody who knows about our travels, knows this is just one more bombing, criminal event, and killing that occurred while we were somewhere.
___________________________________________
Ephesus and Sirince, Turkey
Esphesus is a major ruin that has a much photographed library with a magnificent façade and an amphitheater that once held 25,000 people. They used to have the Christmas show there before Radio City Music Hall but then the animals ate the dancers. It is over run with tourists. The Turkish government makes a lot of money for entry fees for these various sites and cares more about that then preserving the ruins. Although only 20% has been excavated it remains an extraordinary visit.
The Ninayasan Hotel, where we are taying near Ephesus is not worth the money. It is almost $150 a night and while the rooms are exquisitely refinished to emulate the interior of a Roman hone with a combination of trompe l’oiel, intentionally distressed walls, and work that mimics frescoes, the attempt to make one welcome ends there. There are many little things that do not add up to expensive including the rooms being small. Another example is the shower is dark, leaving you to guess which parts you are washing.
As we preapre to leave the hotel, a gaggle of aggressive geese protect the car they do not own. But neither do we and intend to return it that today. As we headed down the Hill Of Death for the last time, the rain added an unnecessary element of the danger.
The car trip remained uneventful until we reach some toll booths. We could not figure out how to get a ticket from the machines, since they were all unmanned. In fact, I got out of the car and acted like a truck to see if I could generate a ticket. We found out later you were supposed to go to a small building next to the toll booths and buy a plastic card. When we finally arrived at the pay booths, we found the one booth that did not have a gate and we set off an alarm. No cops stopped us, but I am sure the rental company will get a bill which I will in turn some day.
We arrive at the Grand Hotel Ontour to return our car in Cesme, a huge facility closing for the winter and has all the charm of The Shining. The rental car office is shuttered and one of the morticians who is putting the joint to rest volunteered to help us. He made many phone calls on our behalf telling us things we do not want to hear, including the guy who supposed to run the car rental agency left town. We see our trip to Chios evaporating. Then they discover there is another car rental office in town and they tell us to bring it there which they say is one half hour drive.
They tell the gatekeeper, who has not seen any humans but us in weeks, to drive ahead of us and we will follow him. As we drive, Andrea looked for the words in Turkish “wait for us”. It was unnecessary, he waited. We arrive at an all year round, luxury resort where they are staging some sort of convention. We return the car to someone who actually works for the car rental company who does not discover the crack in the windshield we did not see either until we driven the car for about an hour. The gatekeeper drove us to the ferry and we tipped him grandly.
After having our tickets verified at the ferry boat office to Chios we walk to the nearby marina for a bite. Cesme is a wealthy community and the marina harbors scores of 30 foot boats and many close to 50 feet. While all the boats have small Turkish pennants, many fly American flags and we see at least one French. The water is the cleanest water I have ever seen in docking area. It is a pristine bluish green without a hint of a paisley pattern of oil. This means they actually keep the harbor clean or no one takes their trophies for a spin,
I know the restaurant will be expensive, the waiter offers food without offering prices. He shows us mezes and we chose some peppers, black-eyed peas, and artichokes, the bread is toasted and not free. Then he brings us an array of fish on a platter. We choose the mullet, no, not they 1990’s bad hairstyle and sole. It is fresh as can be and perfectly prepared.
We head back to our ferry. There are no indications of where and what to go so we head for the most disinterested customs officials we can find. We are so confused as what ship to board we head for a container ship. We do not see an entrance except if we were containers ourselves. One of the functionaries runs after us and directs us to a ferry that has that familiar lumpy paint look of an overused boat.
Greek Isle of Chios
There is an immediate and obvious change of energy, dress, and social interaction from the Turks. Husbands and wives hang out together, girls with girls, guys with girls, talk, drink, and smoke everywhere. Many of the women are adorned in slutwear- high-heeled boots with short skirts, a lot of dyed blonde hair (some on different people's heads), and open blouses.
Tomorrow is a national holiday, a remembrance of when the Greeks threw out the invading Italians at the end of WWII. Some how I think this hostility goes back thousands of years because more movies are made about the ancient Romans than the Greeks. The Greeks do not want to face the reality that Plato and Aristophanes are not as dramatic as Nero and Caligula. They do not care that if Andrea and I were rich enough to own an estate, we would call it Mt. Taygetos to honor the sight where the Spartans left the elderly and disabled to die. But the Greeks are not mad enough to remove spaghetti from the menus. And the celebration starts under our window the night before. There was music, especially that with a deep bass, until 4 AM. And just when you thought you were falling asleep, some military battery in the harbor would set off a salute. We were thrilled that a fierce rain storm the second night dampened everyone’s enthusiasm.
Before we left, I purchased the highly-acclaimed translation of The Odyssey by Robert Fagles. Supposedly Homer was born on Chios. The brilliant introduction by Bernard Knox begins by stating many places claim Homer but the actual place of birth is disputed. We are here anyway.
We rent a car and head for the tiny towns of Pirgi and Mesta. In Pirgi, they paint their homes in grey and white geometric patterns and attach black ornamental swans to the top of chimneys. It is odd and no one tries to outdo their neighbor using different hues. Old men and women with huge trays, sit in their front doors separating something that looks like nuts from the chaff. We easily find the main square where the children in the town are performing in celebration of the expulsion of the Italians. They make empty speeches and sing off-key, and dance traditional dances as the Greek Orthodox Bishop, the mayor, and what looks like the top crook in town with the biggest pompadour this side of Grease applaud in appreciation. Now the Bishop knows what it is like to listen to his sermons. The kids are cute and little girls offer everyone almond cookies, including us.
We then head to Mesta which is well-preserved 14th century town with narrow streets that were used as a form of defense. Small alley ways lead to private homes and the only form of transportation are motor bikes that buzz on the cobblestone. It is quiet and intriguing town but they apparently fought off the Italians 700 years earlier because there was not one blue and white banner in the colors of Greece to be found in town that swaddled Pirgi.
Another Day Travel Schedule
Cab, ferry (Chios to Cesme, Turkey) cab, plane Izmir to Istanbul), cab, tram (wallet stolen, more in a future report) private car.
____________________________________
We wish to publicly thank Otherchelebi, his gracious daughter and her boy friend for their generous and warm hospitality. We had a home cooked meal in his apartment which overlooked the spectacular fireworks on the Bosporus for Republic Day, followed by a private guided tour Istanbul the following day. (Details in the next report.)
Thank you again.
_______________________________________________-
We are fine and were not effected by the bombing even though we were in Taksim Square yesterday. Anybody who knows about our travels, knows this is just one more bombing, criminal event, and killing that occurred while we were somewhere.
___________________________________________
Ephesus and Sirince, Turkey
Esphesus is a major ruin that has a much photographed library with a magnificent façade and an amphitheater that once held 25,000 people. They used to have the Christmas show there before Radio City Music Hall but then the animals ate the dancers. It is over run with tourists. The Turkish government makes a lot of money for entry fees for these various sites and cares more about that then preserving the ruins. Although only 20% has been excavated it remains an extraordinary visit.
The Ninayasan Hotel, where we are taying near Ephesus is not worth the money. It is almost $150 a night and while the rooms are exquisitely refinished to emulate the interior of a Roman hone with a combination of trompe l’oiel, intentionally distressed walls, and work that mimics frescoes, the attempt to make one welcome ends there. There are many little things that do not add up to expensive including the rooms being small. Another example is the shower is dark, leaving you to guess which parts you are washing.
As we preapre to leave the hotel, a gaggle of aggressive geese protect the car they do not own. But neither do we and intend to return it that today. As we headed down the Hill Of Death for the last time, the rain added an unnecessary element of the danger.
The car trip remained uneventful until we reach some toll booths. We could not figure out how to get a ticket from the machines, since they were all unmanned. In fact, I got out of the car and acted like a truck to see if I could generate a ticket. We found out later you were supposed to go to a small building next to the toll booths and buy a plastic card. When we finally arrived at the pay booths, we found the one booth that did not have a gate and we set off an alarm. No cops stopped us, but I am sure the rental company will get a bill which I will in turn some day.
We arrive at the Grand Hotel Ontour to return our car in Cesme, a huge facility closing for the winter and has all the charm of The Shining. The rental car office is shuttered and one of the morticians who is putting the joint to rest volunteered to help us. He made many phone calls on our behalf telling us things we do not want to hear, including the guy who supposed to run the car rental agency left town. We see our trip to Chios evaporating. Then they discover there is another car rental office in town and they tell us to bring it there which they say is one half hour drive.
They tell the gatekeeper, who has not seen any humans but us in weeks, to drive ahead of us and we will follow him. As we drive, Andrea looked for the words in Turkish “wait for us”. It was unnecessary, he waited. We arrive at an all year round, luxury resort where they are staging some sort of convention. We return the car to someone who actually works for the car rental company who does not discover the crack in the windshield we did not see either until we driven the car for about an hour. The gatekeeper drove us to the ferry and we tipped him grandly.
After having our tickets verified at the ferry boat office to Chios we walk to the nearby marina for a bite. Cesme is a wealthy community and the marina harbors scores of 30 foot boats and many close to 50 feet. While all the boats have small Turkish pennants, many fly American flags and we see at least one French. The water is the cleanest water I have ever seen in docking area. It is a pristine bluish green without a hint of a paisley pattern of oil. This means they actually keep the harbor clean or no one takes their trophies for a spin,
I know the restaurant will be expensive, the waiter offers food without offering prices. He shows us mezes and we chose some peppers, black-eyed peas, and artichokes, the bread is toasted and not free. Then he brings us an array of fish on a platter. We choose the mullet, no, not they 1990’s bad hairstyle and sole. It is fresh as can be and perfectly prepared.
We head back to our ferry. There are no indications of where and what to go so we head for the most disinterested customs officials we can find. We are so confused as what ship to board we head for a container ship. We do not see an entrance except if we were containers ourselves. One of the functionaries runs after us and directs us to a ferry that has that familiar lumpy paint look of an overused boat.
Greek Isle of Chios
There is an immediate and obvious change of energy, dress, and social interaction from the Turks. Husbands and wives hang out together, girls with girls, guys with girls, talk, drink, and smoke everywhere. Many of the women are adorned in slutwear- high-heeled boots with short skirts, a lot of dyed blonde hair (some on different people's heads), and open blouses.
Tomorrow is a national holiday, a remembrance of when the Greeks threw out the invading Italians at the end of WWII. Some how I think this hostility goes back thousands of years because more movies are made about the ancient Romans than the Greeks. The Greeks do not want to face the reality that Plato and Aristophanes are not as dramatic as Nero and Caligula. They do not care that if Andrea and I were rich enough to own an estate, we would call it Mt. Taygetos to honor the sight where the Spartans left the elderly and disabled to die. But the Greeks are not mad enough to remove spaghetti from the menus. And the celebration starts under our window the night before. There was music, especially that with a deep bass, until 4 AM. And just when you thought you were falling asleep, some military battery in the harbor would set off a salute. We were thrilled that a fierce rain storm the second night dampened everyone’s enthusiasm.
Before we left, I purchased the highly-acclaimed translation of The Odyssey by Robert Fagles. Supposedly Homer was born on Chios. The brilliant introduction by Bernard Knox begins by stating many places claim Homer but the actual place of birth is disputed. We are here anyway.
We rent a car and head for the tiny towns of Pirgi and Mesta. In Pirgi, they paint their homes in grey and white geometric patterns and attach black ornamental swans to the top of chimneys. It is odd and no one tries to outdo their neighbor using different hues. Old men and women with huge trays, sit in their front doors separating something that looks like nuts from the chaff. We easily find the main square where the children in the town are performing in celebration of the expulsion of the Italians. They make empty speeches and sing off-key, and dance traditional dances as the Greek Orthodox Bishop, the mayor, and what looks like the top crook in town with the biggest pompadour this side of Grease applaud in appreciation. Now the Bishop knows what it is like to listen to his sermons. The kids are cute and little girls offer everyone almond cookies, including us.
We then head to Mesta which is well-preserved 14th century town with narrow streets that were used as a form of defense. Small alley ways lead to private homes and the only form of transportation are motor bikes that buzz on the cobblestone. It is quiet and intriguing town but they apparently fought off the Italians 700 years earlier because there was not one blue and white banner in the colors of Greece to be found in town that swaddled Pirgi.
Another Day Travel Schedule
Cab, ferry (Chios to Cesme, Turkey) cab, plane Izmir to Istanbul), cab, tram (wallet stolen, more in a future report) private car.
Oct 31st, 2010, 08:58 AM
#88
Adu, I am glad you did not tell us all, but left it to the writing on the wall. It is deliciously written again.
Cold, it was an empty wallet, for heaven's sake. There was nothing of value in it, except some early pin-up shots of jane russel.
Cold, it was an empty wallet, for heaven's sake. There was nothing of value in it, except some early pin-up shots of jane russel.
Nov 1st, 2010, 10:45 AM
#89
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You're back in form, bud! Awaiting the next communique.
Sorry about the wallet...My accountant is a former Turkish Air Force fighter pilot, now basking in the sunshine of California...he claims he knows every pickpocket/crook worthy of the title in Western Turkey. Maybe he could lead you to the snatching culprit.
Sorry about the wallet...My accountant is a former Turkish Air Force fighter pilot, now basking in the sunshine of California...he claims he knows every pickpocket/crook worthy of the title in Western Turkey. Maybe he could lead you to the snatching culprit.
Nov 1st, 2010, 11:30 AM
#90
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OC..very nice of you and daughter to host Adu and Andrea. Were they well-behaved? Did you carefully check the silverware when they left? Wish I had known you on my prior trips. I did some "stuff" with a temporary small Kayseri detachment of USAF and TAF, and the large Adana base...way back in pre-hysteric days .
Nov 1st, 2010, 11:40 AM
#91
Tower, Adu tried to make his visit interesting by telling us all about you, but made me promise that i would not tell you that he did that. Since this is a public site, i am not really telling you and if you chance upon it well it is Fodor's fault.
Andrea was great and we all think that she deserves better. However, she said that just talking about tower shows Adu under a bad light. It was our mistake to get him started on the subject. If we had asked him about new York delis or patrami sandwiches, or offered to reimburse the lost wallet, he would have been the epitome of charm, intellect, wit, you name it, she said. but it was already too late. So, we may have to meet them again, with my wife this time so that we can see his better side (left profile, i think)
Andrea was great and we all think that she deserves better. However, she said that just talking about tower shows Adu under a bad light. It was our mistake to get him started on the subject. If we had asked him about new York delis or patrami sandwiches, or offered to reimburse the lost wallet, he would have been the epitome of charm, intellect, wit, you name it, she said. but it was already too late. So, we may have to meet them again, with my wife this time so that we can see his better side (left profile, i think)
Nov 1st, 2010, 11:44 AM
#92
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Tower
So you have an accountant who knows pickpockets. How unusal.
______________________
Cold, it was an empty wallet, for heaven's sake. There was nothing of value in it.
True, I had Other's resume in it.
So you have an accountant who knows pickpockets. How unusal.
______________________
Cold, it was an empty wallet, for heaven's sake. There was nothing of value in it.
True, I had Other's resume in it.
Nov 6th, 2010, 11:18 AM
#93
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Practical Advice for Turkey
Here is my first piece of advice-never believe anybody else’s advice. We have been in Turkey three weeks, which makes me a complete expert in all things Turkish.
________________
Have you ever mocked people who take tours by buses? Do you have a favorite nationality that you love to resent due to their behavior? Well Turkey will make you more self-righteous and smug than any other country I have visited.
We have never been in a country where the major tourist attractions are so overrun with busloads of tourists. This includes the major sights in Cappadocia and Ephesus. While Americans have not “discovered” Turkey yet, the Germans, Italians, Italians, Japanese, and Spanish have. In fact there are so many Spaniards we saw some places that have signs in both Spanish and Catalan and restaurant stalkers ask passers-by if they are Catalan. Get to the most popular attraction early. At Topkapi, get to the Treasury as soon as possible, it is a zoo.
But there are reasons why these bus tours are popular. This is not an easy country for seniors or the disabled. There are always stairs, extra steps, an upslope, and hills to negotiate and few elevators. The roads are mostly fine but there are many hairpin turns in tourist areas and like almost all places overseas an automatic transmission is an expensive luxury.
Throughout the country, there is a charge for entering just about every tourist attraction. They are usually 10 or 20 Turkish Lira (TL) which is $7 or $14 per person and they start to add up over the course of a trip. Be sure to budget appropriately. And there is often a second or third fee to visit the most popular exhibitions within the larger attraction. It is truly annoying. We paid 3 TL just to drive into one town. We were also charged 25 TL just to park near the Virgin’s house in Ephesus by the town. There is also a $20 visa entry fee to the country.
You will be stopped, cajoled, kidded, harassed, and greeted by store owners, restaurant stalkers, and street vendors. Bring your sense of humor and patience to deal with them.
Despite this and the fact that I was pick pocketed, the Turks are warm people with a wonderful sense of humor. Three examples. I was photographing the ceilings in Topkapi by putting my camera on the ground for better support. A guard offered to place it behind the cordon for a better picture. He was thrilled at the technique. I thanked him in Turkish and took his picture. A cab driver asked on the street if we needed a taxi, when we said we were taking the tram, he told us the best way to get it. We stopped at a store to buy some cheap trinkets. A young woman came out to speak to us and we spoke to her and her sister, who also worked at the shop, for an hour about various things.
Other useless and unrelated information
Amex is not widely accepted.
Call your credit company and find out what fees will be charged. It seems these companies have added new charges recently.
The Turks save a lot of money on street signs. They are very occasional, although the roads are generally clearly marked.
For a large city with an active population Istanbul is very clean and the WC’s are generally well maintained.
Turkey is of course a Muslim country and the first call to prayer is a little after sun up and the muezzins call might wake you.
When in Istanbul and if you want to visit the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market, go to the Grand Bazaar first, the walk to the Spice Market is then down hill.
We usually avoid the most crowded tourist areas when traveling but we stayed in the Sultanamhet. It was convenient and the tram will get you close to many major sights.
In the south the people who work in the tourist speak more German and Spanish than English. Learn a few words in Turkish; they are very appreciative of the effort.
Although Turkey is a democracy, there is a concerted effort to silence opposition journalists and the President wants to move Turkey from a secular state to more of a fundamentalist state. Thus some Turks may be loathe to discuss politics and religion with you.
Otherchelebi wants people to know the government has imposed a large tax on alcoholic beverages, so the cost may be disproportionate to those at home.
_______________________________
Cars
If you are dropping your rental car off at an airport, ask questions about who will and where the car will be picked up. Sometimes a cheaper smaller agency, especially at the smaller airports, will have someone greet you to accept the car. Very often when making reservations from another country this custom is not indicated. We had trouble twice because no one was there to greet us.
If you are taking a toll road, ask the car rental company how to use the plastic card for the toll booths.
Gas is expensive in Turkey, so rent a small car with a stick shift.
Parking is where you find it although you can get a fine.
Driving can be an adventure but it is not as bad as say southern Italy.
There are gas stations everywhere.
_____________________________________________
Turkish Food
Turkish cooking is relatively unknown in the US but it is worth knowing. We inquired everywhere we went about ingredients. They often add cumin, a mild powdered red pepper, and special spice mixes to their meat, kebobs, and chicken. Meals often start with soups and then a selection of mezes (small plates), followed by a main course, and dessert.
We are still new to the Turkish cuisine but to our palates, it is a wonderful combination of tastes and textures.
Veggie people should have little trouble in Turkey. There are always mezes such as egg plant, bean (especially fava and lentils) dishes, rice, potatoes, various breads, grilled peppers, and hummus. You will have to inquire if you are lacto-whacko or any variation on a theme as to how things are cooked you will of course, be obsessive enough to ask, but it seemed most things were cooked in olive oil.
The Turkish cuisine is a limited in choices with some American and Italian dishes thrown in. But almost everywhere we went the food was fresh and honestly prepared.
Every hotel had a decent buffet for breakfast and many offered eggs and fresh squeezed orange juice. This will save you money.
Surprisingly Turkish coffee stinks. There is the omnipresent Nescafe and this is your parents’ Sanka. The Turkish coffee is often unfiltered. You might consider bring some coffee from home.
Apple tea is a traditional drink and an offering of friendship.
We had desserts all over the country and they are fine but not spectacular.
For Turkish Delights and Halvah go to Haci Bekir in Istanbul.
The bread is not good in the provinces and just slightly better in Istanbul. One small misconception I had was that pita would be everyone and very little was to be found.
I complained to Fodor’s about one their recommendations Fes Café in the Grand Bazaar. The selection of food is very limited; the food itself is average at best, and the service ridiculous.
We had two expensive meals outside of Istanbul and neither was memorable. Otherchelebi, however, took us to one of his favorite restaurants which has more distinctive and delicious food. He also told the waiter I was a famous international food critic. I guess being quoted in Fodor’s NYC does qualify as something.
_________________________________________________
Hotels
Our favorite hotel was the Esbelli Evi in Urgup. Although it is expensive for us and the area, $150 a night, Suha the owner runs a pleasant and first rate establishment dedicated to making his guests comfortable happy and he tends to the details. He also screens potential guests by the tone and courtesy of their e-mail or any other communication. If it is abrupt, arrogant, or generally dismissive, he will not rent them a room. N.B. If you have trouble with stairs, you cannot stay here.
My least favorite was the Nisanyan Hotel in Sirince. Although it was also expensive and great attention was paid to the detail of decoration of the establishment, little else was offered in making someone’s stay pleasant. They are atop the Hill of Death and even the parking area makes this place almost impossible for people who have trouble getting around.
We stayed at a relatively new hotel in Istanbul called the Tan. We have no complaints and the staff was entirely friendly and helpful. It was good for the price.
I am confident I will more hints once I hit the send button.
_______________________________________
Last report on Turkey to follow shortly.
Here is my first piece of advice-never believe anybody else’s advice. We have been in Turkey three weeks, which makes me a complete expert in all things Turkish.
________________
Have you ever mocked people who take tours by buses? Do you have a favorite nationality that you love to resent due to their behavior? Well Turkey will make you more self-righteous and smug than any other country I have visited.
We have never been in a country where the major tourist attractions are so overrun with busloads of tourists. This includes the major sights in Cappadocia and Ephesus. While Americans have not “discovered” Turkey yet, the Germans, Italians, Italians, Japanese, and Spanish have. In fact there are so many Spaniards we saw some places that have signs in both Spanish and Catalan and restaurant stalkers ask passers-by if they are Catalan. Get to the most popular attraction early. At Topkapi, get to the Treasury as soon as possible, it is a zoo.
But there are reasons why these bus tours are popular. This is not an easy country for seniors or the disabled. There are always stairs, extra steps, an upslope, and hills to negotiate and few elevators. The roads are mostly fine but there are many hairpin turns in tourist areas and like almost all places overseas an automatic transmission is an expensive luxury.
Throughout the country, there is a charge for entering just about every tourist attraction. They are usually 10 or 20 Turkish Lira (TL) which is $7 or $14 per person and they start to add up over the course of a trip. Be sure to budget appropriately. And there is often a second or third fee to visit the most popular exhibitions within the larger attraction. It is truly annoying. We paid 3 TL just to drive into one town. We were also charged 25 TL just to park near the Virgin’s house in Ephesus by the town. There is also a $20 visa entry fee to the country.
You will be stopped, cajoled, kidded, harassed, and greeted by store owners, restaurant stalkers, and street vendors. Bring your sense of humor and patience to deal with them.
Despite this and the fact that I was pick pocketed, the Turks are warm people with a wonderful sense of humor. Three examples. I was photographing the ceilings in Topkapi by putting my camera on the ground for better support. A guard offered to place it behind the cordon for a better picture. He was thrilled at the technique. I thanked him in Turkish and took his picture. A cab driver asked on the street if we needed a taxi, when we said we were taking the tram, he told us the best way to get it. We stopped at a store to buy some cheap trinkets. A young woman came out to speak to us and we spoke to her and her sister, who also worked at the shop, for an hour about various things.
Other useless and unrelated information
Amex is not widely accepted.
Call your credit company and find out what fees will be charged. It seems these companies have added new charges recently.
The Turks save a lot of money on street signs. They are very occasional, although the roads are generally clearly marked.
For a large city with an active population Istanbul is very clean and the WC’s are generally well maintained.
Turkey is of course a Muslim country and the first call to prayer is a little after sun up and the muezzins call might wake you.
When in Istanbul and if you want to visit the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market, go to the Grand Bazaar first, the walk to the Spice Market is then down hill.
We usually avoid the most crowded tourist areas when traveling but we stayed in the Sultanamhet. It was convenient and the tram will get you close to many major sights.
In the south the people who work in the tourist speak more German and Spanish than English. Learn a few words in Turkish; they are very appreciative of the effort.
Although Turkey is a democracy, there is a concerted effort to silence opposition journalists and the President wants to move Turkey from a secular state to more of a fundamentalist state. Thus some Turks may be loathe to discuss politics and religion with you.
Otherchelebi wants people to know the government has imposed a large tax on alcoholic beverages, so the cost may be disproportionate to those at home.
_______________________________
Cars
If you are dropping your rental car off at an airport, ask questions about who will and where the car will be picked up. Sometimes a cheaper smaller agency, especially at the smaller airports, will have someone greet you to accept the car. Very often when making reservations from another country this custom is not indicated. We had trouble twice because no one was there to greet us.
If you are taking a toll road, ask the car rental company how to use the plastic card for the toll booths.
Gas is expensive in Turkey, so rent a small car with a stick shift.
Parking is where you find it although you can get a fine.
Driving can be an adventure but it is not as bad as say southern Italy.
There are gas stations everywhere.
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Turkish Food
Turkish cooking is relatively unknown in the US but it is worth knowing. We inquired everywhere we went about ingredients. They often add cumin, a mild powdered red pepper, and special spice mixes to their meat, kebobs, and chicken. Meals often start with soups and then a selection of mezes (small plates), followed by a main course, and dessert.
We are still new to the Turkish cuisine but to our palates, it is a wonderful combination of tastes and textures.
Veggie people should have little trouble in Turkey. There are always mezes such as egg plant, bean (especially fava and lentils) dishes, rice, potatoes, various breads, grilled peppers, and hummus. You will have to inquire if you are lacto-whacko or any variation on a theme as to how things are cooked you will of course, be obsessive enough to ask, but it seemed most things were cooked in olive oil.
The Turkish cuisine is a limited in choices with some American and Italian dishes thrown in. But almost everywhere we went the food was fresh and honestly prepared.
Every hotel had a decent buffet for breakfast and many offered eggs and fresh squeezed orange juice. This will save you money.
Surprisingly Turkish coffee stinks. There is the omnipresent Nescafe and this is your parents’ Sanka. The Turkish coffee is often unfiltered. You might consider bring some coffee from home.
Apple tea is a traditional drink and an offering of friendship.
We had desserts all over the country and they are fine but not spectacular.
For Turkish Delights and Halvah go to Haci Bekir in Istanbul.
The bread is not good in the provinces and just slightly better in Istanbul. One small misconception I had was that pita would be everyone and very little was to be found.
I complained to Fodor’s about one their recommendations Fes Café in the Grand Bazaar. The selection of food is very limited; the food itself is average at best, and the service ridiculous.
We had two expensive meals outside of Istanbul and neither was memorable. Otherchelebi, however, took us to one of his favorite restaurants which has more distinctive and delicious food. He also told the waiter I was a famous international food critic. I guess being quoted in Fodor’s NYC does qualify as something.
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Hotels
Our favorite hotel was the Esbelli Evi in Urgup. Although it is expensive for us and the area, $150 a night, Suha the owner runs a pleasant and first rate establishment dedicated to making his guests comfortable happy and he tends to the details. He also screens potential guests by the tone and courtesy of their e-mail or any other communication. If it is abrupt, arrogant, or generally dismissive, he will not rent them a room. N.B. If you have trouble with stairs, you cannot stay here.
My least favorite was the Nisanyan Hotel in Sirince. Although it was also expensive and great attention was paid to the detail of decoration of the establishment, little else was offered in making someone’s stay pleasant. They are atop the Hill of Death and even the parking area makes this place almost impossible for people who have trouble getting around.
We stayed at a relatively new hotel in Istanbul called the Tan. We have no complaints and the staff was entirely friendly and helpful. It was good for the price.
I am confident I will more hints once I hit the send button.
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Last report on Turkey to follow shortly.
Nov 6th, 2010, 01:01 PM
#94
Excellent second to last Turkey report. Lots of good information for those planning future trips.
It's funny the things that hit you. You're right about the street signs. We in the US take street signs for granted and it's interesting to experience the dearth of them in many other countries.
You make an excellent point about rental car return. BE SURE you find out where to leave the car when you return it. We must have spent 45 minutes driving around the Antalya airport trying to figure out where to leave our car.
Despite little inconveniences such as that, we fell in love with Turkey and its people.
Looking forward to your final report.
Ellen
It's funny the things that hit you. You're right about the street signs. We in the US take street signs for granted and it's interesting to experience the dearth of them in many other countries.
You make an excellent point about rental car return. BE SURE you find out where to leave the car when you return it. We must have spent 45 minutes driving around the Antalya airport trying to figure out where to leave our car.
Despite little inconveniences such as that, we fell in love with Turkey and its people.
Looking forward to your final report.
Ellen
Nov 6th, 2010, 02:40 PM
#96
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Thank you Ellen. We all bring our own narrow and distorted views with us. Speaking of distorted see below.
Cold
I am trying not be one of those hysterical travlers who want the State Department to issue a warning or tell everyone to wear steel underwear because of having their pocket picked. I know you just returned from Turkey and the following is your complete trip report:
Good.
Cold
I am trying not be one of those hysterical travlers who want the State Department to issue a warning or tell everyone to wear steel underwear because of having their pocket picked. I know you just returned from Turkey and the following is your complete trip report:
Good.
