York to Eyam, The Plague Village
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York to Eyam, The Plague Village
I have always wanted to go to Eyam since reading the novel about the plague, called Year of Wonders. We will be staying in York for 5 days in April and thought about renting a car and visiting the village and museum. Google Maps shows two routes to there, one going through Wakefield and another way going through Doncaster. Since both ways show the same distance and time involved, is one way a prettier way? Or more interesting? We like small towns, scenery, and a good pub.
Also, has anyone been to Eyam and what did you think?
Thank you for any input!
Also, has anyone been to Eyam and what did you think?
Thank you for any input!
#2
I would take the A(M)1 via Sheffield and from there into the Peak District.
I'd just jump on the motorway and get to the area as quickly as possible since there is much to see besides Eyam. It is near Chatsworth, and Haddon Hall, and Bakewell so make a big day of it. It will take about 2 hours each way by the fastest route so you will want an early start.
I'd just jump on the motorway and get to the area as quickly as possible since there is much to see besides Eyam. It is near Chatsworth, and Haddon Hall, and Bakewell so make a big day of it. It will take about 2 hours each way by the fastest route so you will want an early start.
#3
I can't help you on a route but I have been to Eyam. A friend and I were staying a week in the Peaks District and I enjoyed it, having also read 'Year of Wonders." That said, I'm not sure I'd have been inclined to drive all the way from York to see it.
The interest, of course, is in the story and the connection when you walk around the village. There are signs in front of houses, as you probably know, telling about who lived there during the plague years and their fates. But on the surface it appears no different really than probably thousands of other tidy & attractive villages in England. I certainly wouldn't discourage you from going if your interest will support 3+ hours of driving rt.
You might consider diverting from York and staying a couple of days to see more of a very nice part of the country. I'd be enthusiastically in support of that.
The interest, of course, is in the story and the connection when you walk around the village. There are signs in front of houses, as you probably know, telling about who lived there during the plague years and their fates. But on the surface it appears no different really than probably thousands of other tidy & attractive villages in England. I certainly wouldn't discourage you from going if your interest will support 3+ hours of driving rt.
You might consider diverting from York and staying a couple of days to see more of a very nice part of the country. I'd be enthusiastically in support of that.
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I've been to Eyam. It was a part of a trip to the Peaks. It was small and charming and we spent a pleasant hour and a half, including some sitting along the stream and people and duck watching. I remember that there wasn't much going on, but it was a pretty spring day and pleasant.
Haddon Hall was my favorite visit (didn't care for Chatsworth, too ChatsworthWorld, IMO) in the area. We spent a good amount of time driving around, chasing down villages, a stone circle, wildflowers and such.
I have also been to York, and truthfully, although you didn't ask, I would spend more time visiting the North York Moors and the Yorkshire Dales National Parks. Ruined abbeys and cute villages, lots of history and absolutely gorgeous scenery. I would revisit Yorkshire, but probably not Derbyshire.
I read the book you mention, and for me, the village wasn't really evocative of the book. It looked too neat and bright, whereas it read rather creepy to me. Of course, I was there in the spring and never in the dark.
Now I'm not an expert by any means, but this part of Derbyshire appeared full of prosperous dairy concerns and didn't have the more romantic and atmospheric scenery of the North York Moors. I find sheep more scenic than cows.
Haddon Hall was my favorite visit (didn't care for Chatsworth, too ChatsworthWorld, IMO) in the area. We spent a good amount of time driving around, chasing down villages, a stone circle, wildflowers and such.
I have also been to York, and truthfully, although you didn't ask, I would spend more time visiting the North York Moors and the Yorkshire Dales National Parks. Ruined abbeys and cute villages, lots of history and absolutely gorgeous scenery. I would revisit Yorkshire, but probably not Derbyshire.
I read the book you mention, and for me, the village wasn't really evocative of the book. It looked too neat and bright, whereas it read rather creepy to me. Of course, I was there in the spring and never in the dark.
Now I'm not an expert by any means, but this part of Derbyshire appeared full of prosperous dairy concerns and didn't have the more romantic and atmospheric scenery of the North York Moors. I find sheep more scenic than cows.
#5
Re the rest of your itinerary -- it appears you won't have a car except for this proposed day trip. 5 days in a lot (really a lot) for just York. If it was me I'd have a car the whole time (except for the one or two full day you'd need for central York. Use the other days as historytraveler says for the Dales and the Moors and maybe Castle Howard.
Any of those would be preferable IMO/IME than down driving to Derbyshire unless Eyam is an absolute must for you..
Any of those would be preferable IMO/IME than down driving to Derbyshire unless Eyam is an absolute must for you..
#6
Haddon Hall is also my favorite in the area, actually one of my very favorites anywhere.
My visit there: http://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/gumb...yshire-england
My visit there: http://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/gumb...yshire-england
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Thank you to everyone for the advice. I like these ideas and input.
@janisj --
Thank you for the good advice. I don't know why it didn't occur to me to visit Chatsworth as that is somewhere we have wanted to go for some time. It sounds like we will do that when we just pop in to Eyam. Doesn't sound like there is a lot to see or do there other than the museum. One of the days we were in York we were wanting to go on the North York Moors Railway from Pickering to Whitby and spend an afternoon there. Another possibility for a day trip was to go to Castle Howard as you suggested. If you could choose only one, would you go the Chatsworth/Haddon Hall/ Eyam day trip or the Castle Howard day trip?
@tuscanlifeedit & MmePerdu, is it possible to visit both Chatsworth and Haddon Hall in one day? They appear to only be about 15 miles from each other. Or is that trying to cram it all in?
@janisj --
Thank you for the good advice. I don't know why it didn't occur to me to visit Chatsworth as that is somewhere we have wanted to go for some time. It sounds like we will do that when we just pop in to Eyam. Doesn't sound like there is a lot to see or do there other than the museum. One of the days we were in York we were wanting to go on the North York Moors Railway from Pickering to Whitby and spend an afternoon there. Another possibility for a day trip was to go to Castle Howard as you suggested. If you could choose only one, would you go the Chatsworth/Haddon Hall/ Eyam day trip or the Castle Howard day trip?
@tuscanlifeedit & MmePerdu, is it possible to visit both Chatsworth and Haddon Hall in one day? They appear to only be about 15 miles from each other. Or is that trying to cram it all in?
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#8
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I visited Eyam and enjoyed the museum, really enjoyed Eyam Hall, and found the walk through the village interesting enough. But the most moving aspect of my visit was walking the short distance into the countryside to the boundary stone. You can google "Boundary Stone" + Eyam + walk and get the walk fairly quickly. Do visit the museum first, as it makes the walk far more moving. There's a very narrow stone stile fence to navigate over on the way, but it's not that much of an impediment. But I do recall it was about the narrowest stile I'd come across on my England walks.
And yes--Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, are extraordinary. (Though I prefer Haddon Hall.) One place I wasn't able to visit, but have heard from the locals is wonderful, is Renishaw Hall & Gardens.
Have fun in Eyam!
And yes--Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, are extraordinary. (Though I prefer Haddon Hall.) One place I wasn't able to visit, but have heard from the locals is wonderful, is Renishaw Hall & Gardens.
Have fun in Eyam!
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Also, since you asked, I'd rank the "statelys" like this: Haddon Hall (for its history, extraordinary preservation and 'Jane Eyre' evocativeness), Chatsworth (for the Joseph Paxton connection & gardens), THEN Castle Howard. Its sheer, intimidating magnificence left me a little cold for some reason. Though it is a stunner, and the temple of the four winds, out in the gardens, is one of the prettiest follies I've ever seen. Oh, I envy you!!
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Re the routes from York, neither of them actually go through either Doncaster or Wakefield - not would you particularly want to - they go past them on major motorways. It’s basically a choice of A1 or M1, both of which are very big busy roads. I’d be inclined to go via the M1. Once off the motorway and clear off the Sheffield/South Yorkshire built-up area, the Peaks Are lovely.
South Yorkshire is heavily urban and ex-industrialised area full of traffic and big cities, so the large part of your journey will just be about getting there. Once off the motorway it’ll be more scenic.
South Yorkshire is heavily urban and ex-industrialised area full of traffic and big cities, so the large part of your journey will just be about getting there. Once off the motorway it’ll be more scenic.
#11
>>is it possible to visit both Chatsworth and Haddon Hall in one day?<<
Yes -- except that you'd have 5+ hours of car time (York > around the Peaks to the 3 destinations > back to York) so it would be a pretty long day.
Yes -- except that you'd have 5+ hours of car time (York > around the Peaks to the 3 destinations > back to York) so it would be a pretty long day.
#12
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It is, but it woulkd be a very hurried visit as both places do need several hours to do them justice and then there are the grounds... You could easily spend a full day at Chatsworth. There are so many rooms to wander through and enjoy.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...rth/index.html and on a sunny day, the grounds e equally as good with lots to explore from the formal grounds with the Cascade to the Dell and the Kitchen Garden.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/garden...rth/index.html
Haddon Hall is smaller and possibly more 'intimate'. It is vey different to Chatsworth being tudor qnd has the most amazing medieval kitchen. The gardens are smaller. again to do this justice needs several hours.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...don/index.html
Eyam Hall is in a differnet league altogether. It is much smaller and still feels like a lived in family home. It isn't as grand. There aren't as many rooms to see either. An hour should be plenty.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...yam/index.html
I'm not over fond of Castle Howard either. The outside is stunning and the grounds are good. The inside didn't live up to the promise and felt a bit scruffy. A large part of the house was destroyed by fire in 1940 when the dome, central hall, dining room and state rooms on the east side were completely destroyed. The dome was rebuilt in 1960-1. The first floor rooms in the High South were superficially restored in 2008 and there isn't much to see in them. Although the east wing has been restored externally, it is still a shell.
The last time I visited was to see the Christmas decorations and I was struggling to take pictures in the dim light. Catering (not very good) and shops were expensive. I won't be hurrying to go back...
Don't forget the great ruined abbeys of the North York Moors either which are all reachable from York. Rievaulx, Byland (off the tourist trail but delightful) and Mount Grace Priory.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...ulx/index.html
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...and/index.html
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...ace/index.html
Whitby Abbey and nearby St Mary's church are well worth visiting when in Whitby.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...tby/index.html
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...tby/index.html
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...rth/index.html and on a sunny day, the grounds e equally as good with lots to explore from the formal grounds with the Cascade to the Dell and the Kitchen Garden.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/garden...rth/index.html
Haddon Hall is smaller and possibly more 'intimate'. It is vey different to Chatsworth being tudor qnd has the most amazing medieval kitchen. The gardens are smaller. again to do this justice needs several hours.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...don/index.html
Eyam Hall is in a differnet league altogether. It is much smaller and still feels like a lived in family home. It isn't as grand. There aren't as many rooms to see either. An hour should be plenty.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...yam/index.html
I'm not over fond of Castle Howard either. The outside is stunning and the grounds are good. The inside didn't live up to the promise and felt a bit scruffy. A large part of the house was destroyed by fire in 1940 when the dome, central hall, dining room and state rooms on the east side were completely destroyed. The dome was rebuilt in 1960-1. The first floor rooms in the High South were superficially restored in 2008 and there isn't much to see in them. Although the east wing has been restored externally, it is still a shell.
The last time I visited was to see the Christmas decorations and I was struggling to take pictures in the dim light. Catering (not very good) and shops were expensive. I won't be hurrying to go back...
Don't forget the great ruined abbeys of the North York Moors either which are all reachable from York. Rievaulx, Byland (off the tourist trail but delightful) and Mount Grace Priory.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...ulx/index.html
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...and/index.html
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...ace/index.html
Whitby Abbey and nearby St Mary's church are well worth visiting when in Whitby.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...tby/index.html
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...tby/index.html
#13
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I forgot to add the link to caqstle Howard..
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...tby/index.html
When in York, don't forget the Treasuere's House and the Ghosts in the cellar (may need to book as places are limited)
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...use/index.html
The Below the Stairs cafe was disappointing - there are better places to eat in York...
If you want something different, we can 100% recommend the cafe in the Bar Convent on Blossom Street, just outside the city wall and close to the railway station. It has yet to be discovered by visitors to York and offers very ood and reasonably priced meals. My review is here.
https://www.silvertraveladvisor.com/...r-convent-cafe
There is a small exhibition about the Convent and if you have chance, do go upstairs to peep at the chapel.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...ent/index.html
Fairfax House is also worth visiting too with its lovely georgian furniture. (they don't allow photos)
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...fax/index.html
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...tby/index.html
When in York, don't forget the Treasuere's House and the Ghosts in the cellar (may need to book as places are limited)
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...use/index.html
The Below the Stairs cafe was disappointing - there are better places to eat in York...
If you want something different, we can 100% recommend the cafe in the Bar Convent on Blossom Street, just outside the city wall and close to the railway station. It has yet to be discovered by visitors to York and offers very ood and reasonably priced meals. My review is here.
https://www.silvertraveladvisor.com/...r-convent-cafe
There is a small exhibition about the Convent and if you have chance, do go upstairs to peep at the chapel.
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/church...ent/index.html
Fairfax House is also worth visiting too with its lovely georgian furniture. (they don't allow photos)
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...fax/index.html
#14
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after all that,I gave the wrong link for Castle Howard...
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...ard/index.html
http://wasleys.org.uk/eleanor/statel...ard/index.html
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Castle Howard has fallen out of favour with me big time. It's part of the Historic Houses Association (HHA) that we are members of, allowing free entry as and when you want.
EXCEPT that Castle Howard has now restricted HHA members to one visit only a year.
And to make it even more mean spirited, that one visit cannot be to view the house decorated for Christmas.
We used to go every year - and spend money in the shops etc - but not any more.
Shame, as we loved the building (I've always found it stunning inside and out) but we go to Nunnington at Christmas now.
One place I can really recommend you visit is the World Heritage site of Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal, within easy reach of York. The World Heritage award is for the Georgian Water Gardens which are so rare, and very beautiful. But the Abbey ruins are gorgeous too, plus there's plenty more to see on the Estate (Fountains Hall, deer park etc)
https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/fou...l-water-garden
Allow several hours to see everything.
I am maybe a little biased as I have the great good fortune to work there (it's very close to where I live) but it really is a wonderful place!
EXCEPT that Castle Howard has now restricted HHA members to one visit only a year.
And to make it even more mean spirited, that one visit cannot be to view the house decorated for Christmas.
We used to go every year - and spend money in the shops etc - but not any more.
Shame, as we loved the building (I've always found it stunning inside and out) but we go to Nunnington at Christmas now.
One place I can really recommend you visit is the World Heritage site of Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal, within easy reach of York. The World Heritage award is for the Georgian Water Gardens which are so rare, and very beautiful. But the Abbey ruins are gorgeous too, plus there's plenty more to see on the Estate (Fountains Hall, deer park etc)
https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/fou...l-water-garden
Allow several hours to see everything.
I am maybe a little biased as I have the great good fortune to work there (it's very close to where I live) but it really is a wonderful place!
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I was very interested to read ypur comments about Castle Howard, Margana - I'm pleased it isn't just me that isn't impressed by it. On my last visit I definitely got the impression they were out to screw as much from the visitor as they could...
I also like Fountains Abbey too and the grounds are wonderful to explore.
I also like Fountains Abbey too and the grounds are wonderful to explore.
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Castle Howard's 'argument' (for what it's worth) is that people who live reasonably local can join their new Friends Scheme where you only have to go 3 or 4 times to recoup the cost of joining. Cheeky blighters!
I'm very unimpressed and there's no way I am joining such a scheme! And it doesn't explain their decision regarding people who pay for HHA membership.
They have lost us as visitors (we haven't even been for our yearly 'free' visit in 2017).
I'm very unimpressed and there's no way I am joining such a scheme! And it doesn't explain their decision regarding people who pay for HHA membership.
They have lost us as visitors (we haven't even been for our yearly 'free' visit in 2017).
#18
oh dear, I feel as if I need to confess that I've never been to any of these places - Haddon Hall, Chatsworth OR Castle Howard. Whenever I read threads like these I become all too aware of the gaps in my knowledge of places in the UK, while here I am carrying out an internal debate on whether I should go to India or Costa Rica!
I did go to Fountains Abbey many years ago though.
I did go to Fountains Abbey many years ago though.
#19
In the Peaks/Derbyshire area I like the triumvirate of Hardwicke Hall, Haddon Hall, Chatsworth. And really Hardwicke is my favorite but I do like all three.
As for Castle Howard -- my last visit I never made it inside and ended up in A&E. But the staff was most kind. Too bad they've gotten so mean (cheap to us Yanks).
As for Castle Howard -- my last visit I never made it inside and ended up in A&E. But the staff was most kind. Too bad they've gotten so mean (cheap to us Yanks).