hikrchick

Hi everyone -- Hikrguy and I are spending our summer vacation in Portland, Seattle, and Olympic National Park, from June 23 through July 4. Hikrguy put together a preliminary plan and I wanted to run it by the PNW experts. We have not made any reservations yet; we're trying to set up a plan so that we can look at ONP for these dates.

Please note that our visit to Roseburg is non-negotiable. We are going to see cousins and staying overnight.

June 23: EWR to Portland, stay overnight in Portland, Radisson Hotel
June 24: Portland during the day and driving to Roseburg in late afternoon/early evening. Windmill Inn, Roseburg.
June 25: Roseburg during the day and driving back to Portland in early evening. Radisson Hotel.
June 26: Portland. Radisson Hotel.
June 27: Portland in the morning and then drive to Olympic National Park in the afternoon. Lake Quinalt Lodge
June 28: ONP. Lake Quinalt Lodge
June 29: ONP. Lake Quinalt Lodge.
June 30: ONP. Lake Quinalt Lodge.
July 1: ONP. Lake Crescent overnight
July 2: ONP. Lake Crescent overnight
July 3: drive to Seattle in the morning. Ace Hotel overnight.
July 4. Seattle in the morning. 3:15 flight home to EWR.

With so much time at ONP, are we giving Portland and Seattle short shrift? Should we take one day from ONP and spend it in one of the cities? And if so, which?

Advice welcome. thank you!

hikrchick

I forgot to mention -- hate that there's no edit function yet! -- that this will be our first time in the PNW, and that we are late 40's/50 years old. We will be renting a car at Portland airport and returning it in Seattle.

thanks!

marvelousmouse

I think you're giving Seattle the short end of the stick, if you've never been. You have less than 24 hours there. It has more stuff to actually "see" than Portland, unless you consider Powells Books a tourist destination. I prefer Portland- but it's more of a food and beer and hanging out city while Seattle is more tourist activity oriented.

But...then again...Seattle is REALLY expensive at that time of year and from your name, you two are hikers. So I don't know if I'd take a day away from The ONP.

Are you keeping your room at the Radisson during Roseburg? at first I assumed you were checking out but then you are returning to the hotel so that doesn't make much sense. I would probably stay downtown when you return to Portland- one of the best things about the city is how pedestrian friendly it is- and I'm assuming you're talking about the airport Radisson.

hikrchick

Thanks, marvelousmouse. I honestly have no idea what Hikrguy is thinking about the Radisson, and now that I've googled it I see it's an airport hotel. So I will ask him. I agree with you that staying downtown is preferable.

If we were to take one day from ONP and put it on Seattle, I'm imagining that it would then look like 3 nights/2 full days at Lake Quinault and then the same 2 nights at Lake Crescent and then leave for Seattle on July 2.

also, do you think we are not the right demographic (too old) for Ace Hotel? Is it more hipster?

I admit I have not done any research yet, though the destination was my idea.

thanks!

tomfuller

The end of the TriMet light rail red line is just outside baggage claim at PDX. http://trimet.org/guide/max.htm
Rent your car downtown when you need it.
Why don't you go over to the Oregon coast from Roseburg instead of back to Portland?
If there is a drop fee for leaving the car at SEATAC, just drive back to PDX or to wherever you rented in Portland and take the red line back to PDX.

marvelousmouse

Assuming they want to see Portland. Their route makes sense. But how does driving their car back to Portland make any sense if they have a flight out of sea?

Hikrchick...ace is fine. I like Moore better for the location and its coffee bar. But neither are "pretentious hipster" like some of the places you might visit in Capitol Hill. I mean, both are not my favorites in terms of comfort but I get what price point you're looking at, and as long as you realize those are bare bones hotels- i would say equivalent to a decent hostel- both are ok. I think ace has better beds than Moore but I may be wrong on that.

If you need recs for a downtown hotel in Portland- look at Chrystal Hotel (mcmenamins). It's "grown up" hipster, uniquely Oregonian, and has a fabulous soaking pool in the basement... Into which conveniently you can take drinks from bar also in the basement

tomfuller

You seem to be missing the July 4 fireworks in Portland or Seattle. I would drive back to Portland and do something there. https://www.events12.com/portland/july/
Have you committed to the flight from SEA at 3:15PM 7/4?

happytrailstoyou

In planning your trip you have overlooked that the Columbia River Gorge and the Oregon coast are two treasures that inspire folks to visit that state.

While you are in Portland, you could visit the Columbia River Gorge as a day trip. Drive at least as far as Multnomah Falls.

If you want to see Oregon's spectacular coast, drive from Roseburg to Lake Quinault on I-5, 138, 38, and 101.

Lake Quinault is at the southern fringe of ONP. Forks, Lake Crescent, and Port Angeles are better situated to visit more of the park's attractions.

HTtY

Gardyloo

Here's what I'd do.

Fly into PDX and get the car. Don't stay downtown; you're going to have to sacrifice something and if the choice was downtown v. the Columbia Gorge, IMO that's a no-brainer. Instead, drive to McMenamins Edgefield in Troutdale, 15 min. from the airport and spend the long evening trying out the products from their on-site brewery, distillery or winery, eat good food and enjoy the live music or funky art all over the place. Your demographic will fit right in (as will most others.) http://www.mcmenamins.com/Edgefield

Next morning, use your east coast body clocks to get an early start. Drive east on the Historic Columbia Gorge Highway, which starts right in Troutdale, maybe with stop at Shirley's Tippy Canoe - http://www.shirleysfood.com/ - for breakfast. Stop at the Portland Women's Forum and Vista House viewpoints, then at Latourell and/or Multnomah Falls before the mid-day crowds get there.

Continue east to Hood River, then turn south on SR35 and drive up the gorgeous Hood River Valley toward Mount Hood. Depending on how your time is doing, pop up to Timberline Lodge as you pass, but then carry south on US 26 to US 97, then back through picturesque Sisters, then over the mountains on the McKenzie Highway (OR 126) to Eugene, then south on I-5 to Roseburg.

This is a considerably longer day on the road than a morning in Portland followed by a blast down I-5, to Roseburg, but it will give you a chance to see the Gorge, Mount Hood, and some fabulous scenery on the road south (and maybe also better weather on the east side of the Cascades.) You'd still get to Roseburg in the late afternoon or early evening, but after an infinitely more interesting day than one spent on (seriously boring) I-5 through the Willamette Valley.

Then, out to the coast. Follow SR 138 and SR 38 out to Reedsport (fast and scenic road, look for roadside elk just before Reedsport) then north. Spend that night somewhere on the central or north Oregon coast; maybe Yachats, Newport, Cannon Beach or Astoria. (Many places require 2-night minimums in the summer, but this would be a Sunday so maybe not impossible, and there are plenty of places that don't require two nights.)

On Monday (26th) visit Cape Disappointment at the (awesome) mouth of the Columbia, and maybe drive up to historic Oysterville on the Long Beach Peninsula overlooking Willapa Bay (big nature reserve, lots and lots of birds.) Then continue to Lake Quinault.

I would give strong consideration to shortening your stay in Olympic NP by at least one night, maybe even two. This might play havoc in terms of swapping your accommodation plans, so if you can't, so be it. However, as stated, while Lake Quinault is lovely and the Quinault Rain Forest is marvelous, it's some distance to other attractions on the west coast of the peninsula, so consider shifting one night up to Forks or La Push in order to have time for the Hoh Rain Forest and/or one or two of the La Push beaches like Rialto. Otherwise, focus on Ruby Beach and consider making a (longish) day trip from Lake Quinault up to the Hoh Valley for at least one walk there - maybe the Hall of Mosses trail if nothing else.

If you had to swap Lake Crescent for one night in Port Angeles, IMO it wouldn't be the end of the world; you'd still have time for a good hike at Hurricane Ridge (snow will be gone but wildflowers might not yet be in full show) before heading... not to Seattle.

Yep, I'd frankly take one of the saved days from the Olympic Peninsula and use it to bypass Seattle altogether and just head back to Portland. Here's the reason: Seattle is crushingly expensive in the summer, and extremely crowded with visitors, principally people coming off or onto Alaska cruises. By comparison, you could drive south from Port Angeles along gorgeous Hood Canal to Olympia, then detour to Johnston Ridge on Mount St. Helens before ending up in Portland, either the same night that you leave Port Angeles, or the next morning or afternoon. That would give you time to hit a food truck or a microbrewery in Portland, or hang out at Powell's, whatever.

One BIG benefit of ending back in Portland is that it would probably cut your car rental cost in half. One-way rentals (PDX > SEA) are horrific in the summer, and the three hours' drive between the cities - even if you did stay in Seattle - will be more than compensated in the rental savings. Check it out.

So that's the plan. Just an idea of course, worth what you're paying for it.

Map - https://goo.gl/maps/GBtnNNe1uW52

hikrchick

oh my gosh, gardyloo! This is amazing! thank you!
it now turns out that Hikrguy randomly chose hotels in Portland and Seattle just for the spreadsheet, not that he was actually thinking of staying there. That's what no talking and only spreadsheets will get ...

I took marvelousmouse's advice yesterday and suggested to him to take one day off from Lake Quinault and then have an extra to stay in Seattle. Or Portland... So he got right on that this morning. At least we have some accommodations in ONP and can cancel up to 30 days beforehand.

When you say "crushingly expensive" do you mean like NYC, which we are used to (and could budget for), or even more expensive than that? Also, we hate crowds. Would Seattle be as crowded as NYC at Christmastime? If so, would Portland be less crowded?

The idea of going to ONP and then back down into Oregon sounds really beautiful. I would love to see the coastline.

I usually do so much more research before letting Hikrguy get at it, but I just don't seem to have the time right now. Looks like we have a lot of planning to do! Thank you so very much.

tomfuller

I like Gardyloo's route but it doesn't get you to Seattle.
If you wanted to see Crater Lake NP, continue south on US 97 through Bend and turn onto the eastern part of Rt. 138 which takes you to the north entrance of the park.
It's 101 miles on Rt. 138 from US 97 to Roseburg.
The last time I was in Seattle, (1-4-17) I visited Groundspeak Headquarters for my 1800th geocache find.
I've been geocaching for 11 years now and it has taken me to many places that I never would have visited otherwise.
If you do go with Gardyloo's route, consider going over Rt. 242 out of Sisters. The Dee Wright Observatory at the summit is worth a stop.

Gardyloo

When you say "crushingly expensive" do you mean like NYC, which we are used to (and could budget for), or even more expensive than that? Also, we hate crowds. Would Seattle be as crowded as NYC at Christmastime? If so, would Portland be less crowded?

Pretty close, like for like. Of course, as with NYC you can stay outside of town and commute in, and save money in the process. But most decent downtown hotels that week are going to be in the $250 - $300+ range, plus $40 - $50 to park a car.

Crowded is a relative thing, of course. Not this - http://gardyloo.us/20100816_22a.JPG - but easily this - http://www.futurenostalgia.org/image...ket_crowds.jpg

Portland is MUCH less crowded at that time, and generally cheaper to begin with. There's also no sales tax in Oregon so things you buy and meals at restaurants are also often cheaper.

marvelousmouse

Ok. So Pike Place Market is literally the only place you will encounter east coast style crowds. And so it's really only fun early in the morning. But tourists only seem to flock to that and to the Space Needle. It's nothing like say shopping on the Mag mile in Chicago or walking the freedom trail during the summer in Boston.

Portland is kind of similar crowd wise. It just doesn't really have a place where tourists "clump". And it doesn't get cruise ship crowds which is honestly a huge factor in Seattle. We don't get massive tour groups, but its pretty easy to know when a ship is in port.

And it's worth noting as well that frankly I don't find Portland significantly cheaper than Seattle in summer. Downtown hotels will be expensive. I started staying at the Chrystal hotel because my usual places had become overpriced on the weeekends and then I kept staying there because it was just as nice and very close to Powells. Ace and Moore and a few hostels are the only budget friendly places in downtown Seattle. In Portland you can stay out a bit and the transit links are good. In Seattle the transit isn't quite as great and the places further away are less convenient. Seattle hotels know they will fill up in he summer and the traditional chains have no motivation to offer deals because of it- I mean, every single hotel in. 60 mile radius may sell out multiple nights. There's a shortage. That doesn't happen nearly as often in Portland.


I don't think I would skip Seattle because there's a good reason it's popular in e summer. It's beautiful and there is tons to do. Also, it tends to be a little cooler than Portland- Portland is inland so when it's a heat wave there, it's unpleasantly hot which almost never happens in Seattle.

suze

I think it sounds just fine. People always try to rush through the ONP or think they can see it all as a "day trip". Your plan is great.

Obviously you are shorting both Portland and Seattle, but I assume that's because you are more interested in nature and hiking, than urban activities.

suze

(oops, I live in Seattle, and love it here but that doesn't change my reply.)

hikrchick

Well! lots to review here, thank you all so much!
Hikrguy has done a preliminary revision which deletes Seattle and comes back down the Oregon coast. As soon as I take a look I'll post for comments.

You are all correct, we are more interested in nature and hiking at this point. I work in midtown NYC and I need my yearly dose of natural wonders that don't include the Empire State Building ;-) I need to be away from crowds and cars and noise. Mostly crowds.

It's unfortunate that we can't be away any more than 6 work days. I wish we could go for two weeks but at this point we have to compromise. And it's looking like we'll have to plan a trip solely to Seattle and environs, because we're missing the kayaking on this trip and that's also something we love.

thanks everyone for your pragmatic solutions for this trip!

WeisserTee

"And it's worth noting as well that frankly I don't find Portland significantly cheaper than Seattle in summer. Downtown hotels will be expensive."

Yes and no. Last summer (over the 4th of July time period) we stayed at a great hotel in Portland for about 40% less than our similar quality hotel in Seattle cost (Hyatt in Seattle, Paramount in Portland). We loved the Paramount and had an excellent offer for our stay by contacting the hotel directly (actually talking to their staff, not just emailing). Staying there was one of the highlights of our trip. We had a good time in Seattle, but enjoyed Portland more.

FWIW, we had originally booked into the Marriott in Portland to see the fireworks but checked out within two hours of arrival -- it was very disappointing. Problems with the bathroom, dirty windows (so much for seeing the fireworks), overall shabbiness.

Bobmrg

You can kayak on Lake Washington during your time here.

http://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid...n+kayak+rental

Michael

I recommend visiting Neah Bay for its museum and smoked salmon. Nearby is also a trail to the western most point in the 48 States, with many eagles flying around.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...7622991196341/ and subsequent pictures.