tripplanner001

We’ve been trying to visit Japan since 2018 and for one reason or another have not made it back. We were there in 2012 - Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, and Nara - and thoroughly enjoyed our time there. What called to us were the unique culture, beautiful temples, magnificent gardens, great food, the cleanliness, and first-rate infrastructure.

For our return trip we’re looking at May 2023, after the Golden Week holidays and hopefully cherry blossom crowds. We intend to see, do, and experience a variety of places, from big cities to small towns and nature.

A rough itinerary starts us in Tokyo and conclude in western Japan. Stops we are eager to hit along the way are Kanazawa, Takayama, Kyoto, Okayama / Himeji, Tsuwano / Hagi, and Matsue. Other places are of interest but this seems to be the most we could fit in 3+ weeks on the ground. Right now I’m thinking 4 nights each in Tokyo and Kyoto and 2 or 3 nights elsewhere, to allow time to get outside of the bases (for example, a day hike in the Japanese Alps from Takayama).

I’m interested in thoughts and feedback from those are more Japan pros than me.

If for some reason we don’t get to go in May, then it will be at the top of the list for November next year.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

valgalchi

If you are going to be in Okayama you might consider checking out Kurashiki. We did an overnight there and the canal was really lovely at night. We had great yakitori at Takataya (Takadaya). We just did Okayama as a day trip from Kurashiki. We enjoyed Matsue when we were there (we were there for 4 nights- probably one night too long really). We did a day trip to Izumo Taisha and a day trip to Sakaiminato. We had planned to go to Iwami Ginzan instead of Sakaiminato but it was pouring rain and we figured that wouldn't be pleasant to visit in the rain. Sakaiminato is the home of Shigeru Mizuki, the creator of GeGeGe no Kitaro a manga that features weird looking characters (one character just has a giant eyeball for a head) and there were little statues all over of these characters. Not a must do but a fun little outing. There is also a shrine there that has these characters on their ema. In Matsue we enjoyed dinner at Akishima (english menu) and a curry lunch at Karly.
Have not been to Hagi or Tsuwano mostly because the travel to get there was complicated from where we were. I seem to recall it's easier to get there from Kyushu. We hope to include those on a future trip.

mrwunrfl

I like your plan a lot. Where are you traveling from? You could fly to Komatsu or Toyama to start in Kanazawa.

Kanazawa, this was the first place I was going to recommend given your interests. You are there to visit the garden, obviously. You can walk over visit the castle, too. Tourist bus loop gets you around. I could suggest a couple places to eat.

Takayama, is a full day. You sh/could visit Shirakawago from there or stop in S-go on the way by bus from Kanazawa to Takayama. I recommend the former - take the shinkansen from Kanazawa to Toyama and the L'Ex to Takayama (I have read that this is a very scenic trip but haven't done it yet). Actually spending a night in S-go would be quite worthwhile (I loved it). For hiking I can think of a place east of Takayama. Okuhida, IIRC. Take a bus and then a ropeway up and then hike down to Kamikochi. bus back to Takayama (get reserved seats in advance- Kamikochi is very popular) You might be able to do all that all in a day trip from Takayama. Basically, three full days for Hida. If you fly into Tokyo then you could go from there to Matsumoto to see the castle and then bus to Kamikochi and on to Takayama, tho an overnight in Kamikochi might be nice). Oh yeah, there is a temple walk just to the east of Takayama. You do want to visit the tax assessors office in Takayama, can't think of the name right now.

So for the first plan I was suggesting, Kanazawa to Takayama by JR, day/side trips to S-go and Kamikochi (maybe) you would then take that L'Ex (Wide View Hida) to Nagoya and then shinkansen to Kyoto. There are some runs of the WV Hida that go directly to Kyoto, so you could avoid a change trains. I very much liked the Best Western in Takayama.

Kyoto, am not a fan though others love it.

Okayama / Himeji, you can just visit Himeji on the way to Okayama. You are going to visit Okayama-jo and the garden and go down to Kurashiki. You can also consider going Kojima (denim capital of Japan!) to get a view of the Seto Ohashi bridge system (at least, I want to do that some day). Or take the train across to Shikoku and back. That bridge is awesome and there are good views of the Seto Nai Kai.

Tsuwano / Hagi, I took shinkansen to Shin Yamaguchi and then bus over to Hagi. The bus trip was a bit tiring but ok (some winding roads and at night). I can reccomend a place to stay. Town is famoua for pottery. Hagi-yaki? Do visit the castle. It was destroyed by the owner to appease the shogun. There was an old lady who lived and had an orange tree by the fence. Buy one of those inedible oranges just to see her be happy. Going around Hagi made me realize that there are poor people in Japan.

and Matsue. You must visit the castle and Izumo Taisha. The town is also famous as a place where author Lafcadio Hearn lived (famous book Kokoro). I took the train from Hagi to get there and had a couple hours to make a train connection in Masuda? which I enjoyed walking around. Cool little coffee? place with dozens of calendars on the wall. I can give directions. I flew out of Yonago airport which is longish bus ride from Matsue.

Am pretty sure you have time to visit Tsuwano bridge on the way from Okayama to Hagi.

Am writing this all pretty much from memory, thus the ? marks and maybe a bit of fuzziness.

tripplanner001

valgalchi and mrwunrfl, thank you for your incredible feedback and for letting me know I’m on the right track. I will continue to research and may have other questions.

Kavey

We enjoyed Kanazawa on our last trip in 2016. We went for the garden but I also loved the food market, and can recommend the Ono Karakuri Museum at Kanazawa Port.
If you're into driving (we love driving in Japan) you may enjoy a few days to go up and round the Noto Peninsula. Can recommend Noto Tukumowan Hyakurakuso as a beautiful place to stay.
We visited Takayama on our first trip in 2012, and although it was crowded I am so glad we timed the visit for their matsuri festival in spring. Also enjoyed superb Hida wagyu while there. We did 2 nights.

tripplanner001

Kavey, thanks for your thoughts on Kanazawa and Takayama.

progol

I have nothing to add but I'm thrilled that you'll be going in the spring, as I'm planning to go in the fall of 2023 and your plans are always helpful to me!

tripplanner001

Progol, happy to be of any help. Will this be your first visit? Do you have destinations within Japan in mind?

progol

Thanks so much, tripplanner! I’ve got a rough itinerary for 3 weeks which I had planned 2 years ago when I expected Japan to open earlier than it did (didn’t we all?). We leave mid-October 2023 and I’m still waiting to get my return tickets - finally have enough FF miles to squeeze out tickets, but just barely!

The rough plan is pretty standard: Tokyo; Matsumoto; Takayama; Kanazawa; Kyoto. I’m considering day trips to Hakone and to Nara (vs staying over). I’m looking at the Nakesendo trail for a possible day trip or 1 night stay. At this stage of our lives, I’d prefer to have longer stays and do day trips, but it’s always a trade off since I love the feeling after the crowds leave. I also wonder if a place like Takayama has become overtouristed and we’re better off skipping it.

So that’s the current thinking. I really enjoy following your trips and love your planning process.

mrwunrfl

progol, I recommend keeping Takayama. A night or two, avoiding the weekend (there is/was an outdoor market, Sat. morning I think, that is not worthwhile at all, imo, but some like it), and avoiding the October festival. I've visited Takayama 3 times, once during the spring matsuri (all before the J-tourism boom) which was busy but fun. It ended on a Saturday. When I went out on Sunday I looked around and and wondered "where did everybody go?

Your rough plan is a good one. It goes straight across the Japan Alps: Matsumoto - Kamikochi - Okuhida - Takayama - Shirakawago - Kanazawa. I think your timing would be good for fall colors on that route <- that is based on the fact that Takayama holds their fall festival at that time. Thar route would be by bus, and you do want to reserve seats in advance.

Or, you could skip that, and just take the train around from Matsumoto to Takayama via Toyama (with a stop in Nagano on the way to visit the awesome Zenko-ji - I did this going from Matsumoto to Tokyo and there were some nice views from the train as it was getting to Nagano). You could base in Matsumoto for the Nakasendo, Kamikochi, Nagano or that place with the snow monkeys. You could probably extend the day trip to Kamikochi by taking the bus from Matsumoto to Okuhida, ropeway up the mountain, and then ropeway or walk/hike down to Kamikochi (I have not done this) and then back to Matsumoto (I suppose you could go to Kamikochi first, then Okuhida and end the day in Takayama . There is some serious hiking around Kamikochi. The Tateyama Kurobe Alpine route would also be an option if you go around, instead of through, the J-Alps. And you could easily visit Shirakawago from Kanazawa (yes, S-go is touristed, for good reason, but the overnight stay there one January was one of the best ever experiences I have had in 11 trips to Japan).

Maybe you knew all this but I am just enthusiastic about this part of your plan and enjoy reminiscing. But if you got to the point of wondering if you should visit Kamikochi, the answer is yes.you should. I had one more thing to mention ...

progol

Thank you, mrwunrfl! Wonderful suggestions! I’m not yet at the point where I’m refining my itinerary but I love the many possibilities you suggest. I appreciate the recommendation to keep Takayama, as it does look lovely, even if a bit overtouristed. I’ve read how other people have loved it as well, so it’ll stay in the plan as of now!

It’ll be a while before I fine tune so now I’ll just step back and enjoy watching tripplanner refine his plan!😉

tripplanner001

Planning is part of the fun, isn't it, progol? I would suggest overnighting if you're going to include Hakone given the distance. It's been a decade now, but I recall lots of logistics on different trains, trams, boats, etc. The transportation through scenery is part of the appeal. Nara was easy to do as a day trip, but we wouldn't mind staying over.

progol

Planning is fun but narrowing things down is so tough! I always want to do it all😉 but I have plenty of time. Still want to find the return flight and then I’ll start making decisions. Thanks for the suggestion about Hakone - I’ll definitely keep that in mind.

Kavey

YES, this!
I just returned from 4 weeks in South Korea and that's a longer time than most have for their first visit and yet I still couldn't fit loads of places and things in to the itinerary... it was hard to narrow down!
But I too find such enjoyment in the whole researching, planning, refining, booking and tweaking process!

mrwunrfl

>> I had one more thing to mention ...

I see that I duplicated some suggestions that I offered in that post and in a reply to the OP. The one more thing might have been to suggest (to both of you) that you will (should) use the luggage delivery service to send bags ahead and travel light through the J-Alps. Well, that advice applies to any travel in Japan.

tripplanner001

Progol, I agree about narrowing down. I struggle with it every time. But I always assume I would return.

Mrwunrfl, thank you for the reminder about the luggage delivery service.

progol

tripplanner and Kavey,

The research is lots of fun, though I wish I was 40 years younger (and significantly wealthier!) and could look forward to many return trips! Not so much anymore, though who knows? Maybe we, too, will fall in love with Japan and return multiple times like so many others I keep reading about. Still, I'm glad I can make plans to go at all; not everyone can, so for that, I'm very grateful.

Kavey

Thus far all the friends that I've helped with their first trips have fallen hard for Japan and some have already planned and made return visits. I'm not sure why so many of us fall so hard but for me it's en enduring love affair.

I am glad to read you're still enjoying the planning and travelling – long may it continue! 🥰

mrwunrfl

>> fallen hard for Japan
I remember the moment. I've told this story from my first trip before.

I was leaving Matsuyama, Shikoku, taking the bus to the port for the hydrofoil to Hiroshima. It was going down the main street when I noticed a boy walking in the same direction. He was maybe 9 or 10 years old, wearing his school uniform - shorts, boxy backpack, cap. Was just walking along and looking around a bit, but on a mission to get to wherever. He stopped and spoke to a shopkeeper who was sweeping the sidewalk in front of his shop. And then he continued heading home? as the bus drew away. I had an intense feeling of relief. It just added on to the understanding that I had gained during the previous few days that Japan was safe and people were kind, no BS or pickpockets or anything to stress about. It was a glimple daily life and I loved it.

Wonderful views at sunset from that hydrofoil. I will mention that the train ride across the Seto Ohashi Bridge at sunset is stunning. Going across that bridge is good reason enough to go to Shikoku (from Okayama). It was dark from the bridge to Matsuyama so I might have to do that again in daylight. And stop in Kojima (denim capital of Japan!) to get the view of the bridge and Seto Nai Kai.

yestravel

I too will follow along as we are going back to Japan in October. I recommend Kanazawa. We used a Goodwill Guide there and really enjoyed our day with her. The Noto Peninsula is beautiful, but you may need a car or driver to explore it. Check out the Kurobe Gorge its a lovely trip.