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A taste of France (and a return to Switzerland)

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A taste of France (and a return to Switzerland)

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Old May 30th, 2024, 07:48 PM
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A taste of France (and a return to Switzerland)

Finally, France.

After that endless journey from Australia - 33 hours from home airport to Zurich, then train west.

My itinerary : May/June 2024:


flight in and out of Zurich


Besancon 7N

Avignon 9N

La Tour-de-Peilz (Vevey) 2N

Meiringen 11N

Winterthur 1N



I’ve visited so little of France, having only been to (and loved) Alsace, travelling between Wissembourg/ Strasbourg/ Colmar/ Mulhouse over 3 trips and several trips to Switzerland (mostly paired with Italy).

Combine some charming historic towns with a mountain base and I’m happy.



Exiting Zurich airport was a dream, plane arrival at 8:20 am and I was at the train station by 9 am.

No queuing at passport control, and my bag waiting on the conveyor belt.

Swiss efficiency and good timing.



It would have been a simple journey onwards, but my eSIM wouldn’t activate (spotty wifi perhaps) so I had to manually buy tickets (would have otherwise used the SCNF App) and that meant queuing (I was number 20 in queue) at a ticket office (can’t buy French destination tickets at SBB ticket machine) and then the contactless payments weren’t working in the office so I was asked to go into the station to withdraw cash from an ATM.

And I was so tech organised with my SBB and SCNF Apps and my Apple wallet, lol.


Anyway, it was a delayed and less efficient start to my journey, and ended up having no time to buy a lovely lunch to enjoy on the journey - fortunately had a few items from the flight, so my first meal in France was. .. squashed cheese and crackers courtesy of Singapore Airlines. .


The train journey became increasingly more pleasant as it followed the Doubs river. Hills, forests, farmland. Changed trains in Mulhouse and Belfort.


Arrived to a modern, well located train station, with lovely views over the historic city of Besancon, in the Franche-Comte region, and the walk down to the ‘loop’ of the Doubs was gorgeous - public gardens / old city defensive walls / gracious stone architecture, and the citadel overlooking the city.


Some photos :



Gardens by train station, such a beautiful walk



Rooftops and the citadel



Walk to apartment






Bridge crossing the Doubs












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Old May 30th, 2024, 08:01 PM
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My apartment is central and quiet (Used their wifi to WhatsApp the eSIM provider and problem was sorted)

Shopped at a nearby organic store, stocking up on my breakfast requirements, and a heavy bread and wedge of Comte cheese / kohlrabi/ hommous for tonight’s supper.

Then wandered the streets, so grand and elegant, with lovely squares, churches, and museums.

So beautifully restored and none of the visible uglies of modern living (boxy air con systems/ discrete waste disposal), with tiny shopfronts and narrow store footprints, renovated and harmonious grey stoned buildings, even the KFC with subdued signage that doesn’t scream at you, no high rise in the original historic old quarter - ‘the loop’, is surrounded by the Doubs and a hill (naturally fortified), with the Vauban citadel perched above, several significant museums ..

..”its exceptional location and surroundings, the city boasts one of the most beautiful and best preserved historic centers of any major town in France.

Besancon owes much of its unique architectural character to its surprising history which has left Roman, German, and Spanish influences on this very French city ..

The Spanish period left a notable architectural legacy, including several Spanish-Renaissance style buildings, such as the splendid Granvelle Palace which now houses the Museum of Time, a tribute to Besancon’s longstanding watch-making tradition.

Following the French conquest, Besancon was reshaped as we know it today. The Sun-King ordered his brilliant military engineer, Vauban, to apply his innovative defensive designs to fortify this sought after city.

Among other fortifications, Vauban rebuilt the fortress that towers above the historic city center”

For the French part of trip -

Opted for Bourgogne-Franche-Comte (the merger of Burgundy and Franche-Comte) and Provence, easily combined in a loop from Zurich and both seemed easy to explore via train. I do like visiting villages and both bases have good train and bus connections.

I use the France rail map to help choose bases for exploring. https://about-france.com/france-rail-map-hi-res.htm



This diverse region has beautiful forests, vineyards, rivers, cliffs, valleys, hills, charming villages, vibrant well preserved historic town centres, caves, salt mines.

List of UNESCO sites https://www.citadelle.com/en/a-voir-...franche-comte/

And the public transport system is excellent.


Wanderings around Besancon city centre: it’s such a beautiful city..










































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Old May 30th, 2024, 08:12 PM
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Ooooo my word. Fabulous. It looks divine. I am so jealous!!

So looking forward to this report as your trip unfolds!

s
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Old May 30th, 2024, 08:25 PM
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Lovely! Looking forward to more.
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Old May 30th, 2024, 08:39 PM
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Day 1: Besancon base (to Arbois)


Took a different route, via Fort Griffon, on my way to the station.

So many lovely sights when walking, it’s very distracting!

I allowed an hour for the 15 minute walk and was almost late.



It’s a 30 min ride to Arbois, €12 bought ticket on SCNF App.

Tiny unmanned station, an easy stroll to town.



Arbois is a charming town, on the river Cuisance, surrounded by vineyards (significant winemaking region) https://www.france-voyage.com/tourism/arbois-1092.htm



I don’t ’wing it’ on my trips, I do research, create a collection of ideas, I check museum and restaurant open times/ market days/ bus and train scheduling.

I like walking and gardens, so often build my day around that, wandering old town alleys, along riversides, comparing the different characters of towns and architecture.



Planned this day trip to allow time for wandering, the Louis Pasteur house visit (iPad provided for context), walk the riverside circuit, visit Church of Saint Just and the cemetery, enjoy a long slow lunch, then had 2 hours before next train so ducked into the plant nursery and slowly ambled some more, past the crumbling Gloriette tower, over the tiny Pont des Capucins.


It’s so lovely. I’ll let the photos do the talking.





Riverside walk with explanations






Pasteur family members


Arbois vineyards


































The town is quite busy with traffic, tractors (wine making and farming), trucks, cars, motorbikes - so while the square is picturesque, it’s not peaceful for dining but it looked like a place the locals gathered.

Seemed like quite a few French visitors, too, had some ‘bonjours’ on my walk, and could hear lots of French at the visitors in sites I passed.



Nearby forests and waterfall (Les Planches Pres Arbois) if had a car.



Pre booked my lunch at Le Bistronome



https://le-bistronome-arbois.com



https://guide.michelin.com/en/bourgo.../le-bistronome



What a lovely experience.

Wonderful food, little taste bombs of contrasting flavours and textures, and simple foods beautifully presented. Wonderful service.

A perfect first meal in France €29 menu of the day, incredible value.



Wow, whipped carrot mousse and peanuts, a smooth sweet and salty explosion of textures and flavour



Not sure what this was…



Beetroot, feta, smoked fish, amazing



Pork and veg, cardamom sauce, delicious…sublime, simple food


Note the little flowers on the kiwi fruit


















Wandered back to the station to find my camera zoom had seized.

So remainder of my photos will be from phone.



Walked 10 km today.


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Old May 30th, 2024, 08:44 PM
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A few more photos…Louis Pasteur’s house in Arbois






















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Old May 31st, 2024, 12:43 AM
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If I'd known you were going to Arbois I would have suggested a visit to Hirsinger for some delicious chocolates! Right by that beautiful sunflower covered roundabout. We were there early in May!
I bought some for myself and they were tiny mouthfuls of total heaven. Bought a smaller pack as part of my son's Jura food parcel for his birthday (along with Comté from the village we were staying in, Morbier, Bleu de Gex and some wine) and he loved them too.

Enjoying your trip report and the photos are great. Shame about you new camera but the phone is doing just fine!
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Old May 31st, 2024, 12:50 AM
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I surprised my husband with a birthday trip to Besancon about 5 years ago. We both really enjoyed it (we stayed at the Hotel Restaurant Spa le Sauvage instead of an apartment). A French friend went to university there -- it's renowned for its language programs (she is fluent in five languages). The city also has several French language schools for foreigners -- it's a worthy place to consider if interested in a French immersion program.
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Old May 31st, 2024, 02:48 AM
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Welcome back in Western Europe, far away (about 1000 miles) from the russo-ukrainian frontline!
I'm sure you are well prepared (as usual) and will visit everything of interest along your itinerary.

Mais pour le cas où:
https://www.france.fr/en/article/fra...-at-its-best-1
https://www.montagnes-du-jura.fr/le-...assif-du-jura/
https://www.estrepublicain.fr/pour-s...e/Doubs?page=2

If you you are fan of the painter Gustaphe Courbet, you will of course visit Ornans
If you are interested in the History of Haiti and the abolition of slavery, you may visit the Chateau du Joux at Pontarlier
https://chateaudejoux.com/en/discove...memories-past/
At Lyon you will see a lot of Roman stuff (at nearby Vienne too) and get the whole story of the deportation of Jews under the Nazi regime (Klaus Barbie).
There are furthermore some temporary exhibitions https://www.petit-bulletin.fr/lyon/expositions.html
No need to mention the scenic tiny city of Perouges and the church of Brou (Bourg-en-Bresse)

If you are interested in paleolithic paintings, you will certainly visit the Grotte de Chauvet
https://en.grottechauvet2ardeche.com...ite/la-grotte/
either from Montelimar or from Avignon
X76-Vallon-Pont-dArc-Montelimar-Valence-TGV-10-decembre-2023-au-6-juillet-2024.pdf

BTW: local weather will get better from next Monday.
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Old May 31st, 2024, 03:55 AM
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Thank you for your TR. Back in 2016, weve driven through the Jura (stopping at Arbois, Poligny etc tasting the golden wine and cheese!) when heading to Beaune but our time was limited, so following with interest.
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Old May 31st, 2024, 04:49 AM
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Ade, that shot of the tractor with the wood pile below the town lights is fantastic. It is one of those special images that defies normal composition with its complexity.
Glad that things are going so well. I seem to recall Jura wines as having a distinctive and unique taste, yeah?
I am done. L'Ade
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Old May 31st, 2024, 04:58 AM
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If you are heading down to Lyon I can highly recommend the Roman museum across the river from Vienne. We went there on a particularly soggy day during our trip, spent ages inside and we would have loved to spend more time outside exploring but the rain was so heavy it just wasn't nice. Do get the audioguide if you go as all the labels are in French (and small print) and the audioguide is very good.

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Old May 31st, 2024, 05:34 AM
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Thank you for your interest and comments.

heti, I did indeed duck into that Hersinger store, but I didn’t buy anything.

zebec, the wine must be an acquired taste, I ordered a glass at one of my lunches and 🤮 .. the waiter explained it is a strong, distinctive flavour, and instead brought me something else.

neckervd, funny - I’ve been to Ornans this morning (in the rain)

swandav, you’ve helped me with my planning, so, thanks!

ANUJ, I’ve always enjoyed your reports

gomiki, thanks.



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Old May 31st, 2024, 05:59 AM
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Day 2: Besancon base (Dole)


Dole is a 25 min train ride €12 and the walk to the centre is an easy 5 min stroll.



The lovely Dole train station



A 2 minute walk from station to centre



Gorgeous walk


Such a delight.

So quiet today - it’s mid week, not a market day and fairly gloomy, which may be a factor.

Visited the tannery district (and the house where Pasteur was born), which is much prettified, the stunning 16C Notre-Dame church, and wandered the fascinating winding streets until my lunch booking at Le Gustalin. Delicious lunch.



































Down to the canal at Pasteur house


Pasteur house


Pasteur house






The tannery


Can go to the Tourist Office and get a map to follow a 4 km route ”Le Circuit du Chat Perche” (reference to book by a noted local author) of sights.

Wandering around the canals, no doubt this would be heaving on a sunny weekend, but so quiet today



















lunch at Le Gustalin


Chicken ballotine and a mushroom sauce…




slow wander back to station










On return home, popped into a boulangerie and bought my €10 supper






And my local bio store for blueberries, apples, capsicum - so convenient.

Then off to wander town some more.

Gorgeous late afternoon light and people now strolling or heading home.



Walked 10 km again today.
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Old May 31st, 2024, 06:41 AM
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You know I'm along for the ride!

Assume this is a solo trip?

We've just this minute booked our flights to Zurich for our Christmas trip...and so begins the difficult task of narrowing things down. We're considering a bit of France, but mostly Italy. We shall see.

Looks like you're off to a good start (camera issues notwithstanding).
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Old May 31st, 2024, 11:54 AM
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So good to have you back in Europe and can’t wait to see you in 2 weeks time…. Besançon is beautiful and your photos are too.
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Old May 31st, 2024, 02:45 PM
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Wonderful photos Adelaidean. We visited Arbois several years ago when we were based in the Jura.It had been a wet spring and the water was rushing under the bridges. We are planning a visit to Dole next year hopefully. I had read it is possible to climb the tower at the church, but not sure if that is so. It looks beautiful, so definitely on our day trip list now.
You are dining well as well.
Looking forward to more.
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Old May 31st, 2024, 07:13 PM
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Yes Mel, solo trip this time.

See you in Martigny, Hambagahle.

rhon, I’ve envied your courage in road tripping, have read some of your reports. But driving is not an option. I do love the smaller towns and villages, but found my compromise, accepted the limitations and I hit the jackpot with my base here as it’s so lovely and interesting, and has great transport options.
I also read that you can pick up the key for the Dole tower at the TI. I think the rooftop views would be fantastic.
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Old May 31st, 2024, 07:50 PM
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Day 3: Besancon base (Dijon)

A 50 min €18 train ride to Dijon

A short stroll to the centre, battling the construction zone as footpaths were being ripped up, roads partly closed, trucks just scraping past.

And came across a protest march of pharmacists, read later it is related to remuneration issues for small pharmacies and takeover by big corporations.

What a magnificent city, the wealth is apparent in the many fine buildings and it’s just glorious to wander:

11thC Cathedral Saint-Benigne de Dijon, which is considered a masterpiece of Romanesque art.

The 12thC Romanesque Saint-Philibert church is closed, but described as an excellent example of Romanesque Burgundian architecture from the 12th century, with a Gothic steeple added in the 16th century.

The 13thC Gothic Notre-Dame de Dijon

The 16thC St-Michel, a Flamboyant Gothic church

Noble houses, churches, grand squares, the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy - so much to see.. some photos ..






































































The museum of fine arts in the Palace of the Dukes :























The tomb of the Dukes of Burgundy











each street just draws you in…















Finally, lunch…




Lunch was at Villa Vauban, I ordered the Dorade (fish) with vegetables, a nice, light dish.


I didn’t climb the tower at the Palace for the rooftop view, it was on my list, but I overlooked it.

Returned by train to Besancon and picked up my boulangerie supper again.
More late afternoon wanderings and another early night.




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Old May 31st, 2024, 08:48 PM
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Wonderful photos and new places to read about! Thank you for writing Adelaidean and introducing us to fresh possibilities for travel - other than the mountains we so regularly return to!
Your meals look delicious and beautiful.
Enjoying following along and taking notes for the future.
All the best from your rather cold and damp home town.
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