Peru - 10 day trip review
Jun 3rd, 2009, 06:59 AM
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Peru - 10 day trip review
Peru Travel Review - because when I was researching, I was wishing to come across one of these type of reviews because it’s helpful to me. Hope this helps someone when planning a future trip.
Background: May 18th-May 29th 2009 couple from NYC (25-30 age range, professionals, US Citizens, not hardcore travelers but consider ourselves knowledgeable, didn’t go with a tour group, booked everything ourselves.) Type of Travel: Leisure/a little bit of adventure
International Flight: Flight from NYC - Lima: There’s one direct flight from JFK to Lima a day, which is on LAN (or AA operated by LAN), at 11:30pm gets into Lima at 6:30am the next day. - Booked on Expedia.com
Within Peru Flights - Flight from Lima to Cusco: booked on LAN Peru (to get the peruvian price, had no trouble booking all my legs on the Peruvian version site, paid via my american credit card over the phone, no problems at all, the difference is over $1000 for 2 people) - though have to NOTE: tickets are non-refundable, non-exchangeable, basically the “lowest” priority category tickets.
May 18th, 9:30pm - get to JFK, check in, told flight was delayed for 3 hours since they can’t land in Lima due to fog...which means they get into Lima at 9:30am, oh no my connecting Lima to Cusco (book separately) flight is at 9:30 (I gave myself a 3 hour window). No problems, since LAN screwed up, they convienently changed my separately booked connecting flight to 12:30pm. What a boring wait at the airport though.
LAN plane experience: not too bad, more leg room than AA, newer plane with bigger tv screens, overnight flight means you sleep, food is ehh, but that’s what you expect.
May 19th, 8:30am - Arrive in Lima’s airport, customs was a breeze, waited for luggage, probably 35mins of total wait time. Go check-in for our Cusco flight, they won’t bump us on earlier flights departing (note above, non-refundable, non-changeable tickets). Wait till our 12:30pm flight.
2pm-ish - Arrive in Cusco, note: view outside the window looking at the approach to Cusco is FANTASTIC!!! Got picked up from the airport by the “hotel” though we didn’t arrange NOR knew they had. Turns out they are a travel agency that works with the hotel, so they did a “courtesy” pick up (they didn’t tell us, but we figured) so we can book their tours (which we did out of convenience.
Hotel Review - Libertador in Cusco (3 night stay) - I rate it 3.5-4 star quality, based on NYC standards, don’t get me wrong, it’s great though, got a corner double balcony-ed suite (that’s what we booked). The breakfast is included, made to order omlets - ‘nough said. Rating: 4.8 on food, 4.5 on hotel.
Arrival date in Cusco - rested, walk to Plaza de Armas for dinner, dinner at some touristy place in the Plaza...there were so many people enticing you to eat at their restuarants, food rating 4.0
May 20 - picked up our Machu Picchu train tickets at the Cusco train station...we walked there, pretty nice walk, you do go off the tourist area a bit, but there’s a huge market near there. Lunch at some touristy place in Plaza de Armas. Booked a half day tour that afternoon. Toured Koricancha, the sun temple (which was located right next to our hotel), Cathedral, Sacsayhuamán, Tambomachay, some cave. Tour started 2pm, ended around 6pm...note: sun goes down at 530pm, by 6pm it’s completely dark. Picked Fallen Angels for dinner from my Fodors book, walked there from hotel, but even in empty restaurant they said “no table available”, went to Cicciolina, another Fodor recommendation, food was great rate 4.6, tour rating 4.5.
Note: The day we arrived, we were told there was a farmers strike going on, roads were blocked from going out to farther areas. Great thing for travel insurance!!! Though it didn’t affect us, cuz it was a planned strike and ended on May 21, we did get to see the road blockage when we did drive to sacred valley.
May 21 - booked a full day tour to Sacred Valley, started 9am ended 630pm-ish. Tour company for both was Dasatour. Stopped at some very local ceramic school market, Pisac (saw guinea pigs, alive and dead =(, the empanada was AWESOME, huge market, very colorful), lunch at Ollantaytambo (you typical buffet tourist lunch, rate 2.0), huayllabamba in urubamba (i think) which was really pretty, a church, I believe we were told it was the first church built. Along all the drive, we made stops to take in the awesomely beautiful mountain/valley scenery. Back in Cusco, dinner at Pacha Papa, another Fodor choice, rate 4.8, tour rating 4.5.
May 22 - early rise 5am to catch our 6:57am Vistadome train from Poroy station to Aquas Calientes (Machu Picchu). Taxi ride from hotel to Poroy was about 25 mins, cost was 30 Soles.
Vistadome train - a little disappointed, because the description hyped it to be much nicer than it actually is. But having NOT been on the backpacker train, can’t complain. The food they served, I’m giving it a 1.5 rating though. Train is ontime.
Get into Aquas Calientes around 10am - one night stay at Sumaq hotel - got picked up, checked in - didn’t get our room till later, but they offered us another room to wash up. At $700 a night, though lunch/dinner/breakfast/tea is all included, it was steep, but all 3 hotels there were that price, unless you stay at a hostel. Still better than the $1100 a night Santuary Lodge (if you have the money to splurge...i only thought about it)
Bought bus ticket and machu picchu entrance ticket - effortlessly (note bus tickets you can pay US$, but entrance ticket must pay with Soles) - lunch at some tourist place (the town is REALLY small) and again lot of people outside the eatery haggling. Also noting that there a LOT of construction, which means dust going on.
Took bus around 12pm up, 25-min approx ride, beautiful scenery, visited Machu Picchu. Last bus down is 5:30pm - written on the bus schedule.
Overnight stay at Sumaq - dinner food was fantastic, rating 5.0, hotel rating 4.0.
May 23 - visited MP again, have to buy all new set of tickets. Lunch at Sumaq, rating 5.0. Vistadome train 3:25pm back to Poroy. Snack food rating 1. Train was about 20mins late getting back to Poroy. There was a fashion show trying to sell you stuff. Our taxi driver who brought us there told us that we can’t get a taxi from there when we arrive, so he offered to meet us, it was fine, he was there, effortlessly spotted him, back to Cusco around 25 mins. NOTE: don’t forget to look up in the sky...millions of stars so shiny!! Dinner at some local touristy spot in Cusco - we were super tired, food rating 1.5. Stayed at Libertador again.
May 24 - flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado - flight was ok, taxi from Libertador to airport was around 15 Soles, and 20 mins approx. Booked Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, for 3day/2night stay. Picked up from airport, drove to their reception check-in area, checked in, drove to dock, took boat (45 mins) to the lodge, checked in, showered, eat lunch, picked out excursions, trekked shortly (about 1 hour) at surrounding jungle, 1-hour night boat ride, THE STARS OMG!!!
Inkaterra Reserva Amazonic review - individual huts with screens instead of windows, but no curtains, try to get on that’s a bit more “secluded” because the huts are all open, no locks, but totally safe, we left all our valuables there, HOT!! And HUMID!! Accomodations I rate it 4.5 - only because during certain afternoon hours (though you’re not suppose to be there) and couple of hours at night they turn off the electricity so the ceiling fan that keeps you cool doesn’t work and I’ve woken up sweating and can’t go back to sleep, but that’s my opinion. It’s an all inclusive (except carbonated and alcohol drinks), food rating - 4.7, lunch was better options than dinner, breakfast is standard, dessert was bad though in my opinion. Note, please bring light long pants, jeans retain heat, and it’s just deadly.
May 25 - 5am rise to go on 6am Lake Sandoval trek. Muddy =) but they provide you with wellies and walking sticks. Be prepared to sweat!! Insect repelent and sun block a must. Back to lodge for shower and lunch and rest. 3pm Canopy tour. Ended around 6pm (when everything gets dark)
Jungle review - only animals seen were little crocs, birds, lots of butterflies, insects, NO monkeys =( - no malaria meds/shot needed, we got our yellow fever vaccinne, but that was NOT checked when we came back to the states. Inkaterra does make you fill out a insurance form though. Overall, everything was pretty effortless.
May 26 - leave lodge, they give you plenty of time for your flight. Flight from Puerto Maldonado to Cusco was VERY bumpy, I was scared. Our final destination was Lima, but LAN doesn’t do direct, and have to stop in Cusco, but you don’t leave the plane. Plane was delayed taking off in Puerto Maldonado, and delayed in take off from Cusco. There was some accident at Lima airport, so they couldn’t land, and had to land in Pisco to refuel, then take off to Lima, overall a 2.5hour flight took us 5 hours with a total of 6 takeoffs and landings.
Got to Lima - hotel was JW Marriott, taxi from airport to there, 40 Soles (we took a regular taxi, not those “fancy” black cars). Took around 35 mins.
JW Marriott review - all ocean view rooms, we got a corner ocean view, but Lima was FOGGY ALL 2 days we were there, we did not see sun or even the sky for the matter, just foggy...so ocean view kind of defeats the purpose. JW is pretty standard - so my rating is 4.8, we ordered a LOT of room service, my rating on that is 4.8, also went for a massage at their spa, rating 3.0 on the massage, 4.0 on attitude, 3.5 on facility.
Lima review - it’s a big city...hotel is right across from the Larcoma mall, so very accessable, took taxi to El Centro, around 20 Soles, ate lunch at local place, so cheap, for $7 soles you can get full on backed chicken and fries. Toured the underground catacomb. Saw a demonstration with riot police - but I felt safe though, cuz it seems organized, walked around El Centro. Walked along the ocean cliff in Miraflores from hotel to El Parque de Amour, pretty. Last night dinner before boarding flight home was a La Casa Nautica, Fodor choice, beautiful setting, yummy food, rating 5.0 for décor, food. 4.8 for location (it’s not walkable), 2 people, we ordered 2 appetizers, 1 soup, 2 entrees, total ~250 Soles, but they add do auto add mandatory service charges.
May 28 - 11:30pm flight from Lima to JFK - good thing it was delayed much, we were eager to get home.
Notes - airport taxes must be paid when departing all airports.
*all times are approximately, plus or minus one hour
**rating based on 1-5, 5 being highest
Background: May 18th-May 29th 2009 couple from NYC (25-30 age range, professionals, US Citizens, not hardcore travelers but consider ourselves knowledgeable, didn’t go with a tour group, booked everything ourselves.) Type of Travel: Leisure/a little bit of adventure
International Flight: Flight from NYC - Lima: There’s one direct flight from JFK to Lima a day, which is on LAN (or AA operated by LAN), at 11:30pm gets into Lima at 6:30am the next day. - Booked on Expedia.com
Within Peru Flights - Flight from Lima to Cusco: booked on LAN Peru (to get the peruvian price, had no trouble booking all my legs on the Peruvian version site, paid via my american credit card over the phone, no problems at all, the difference is over $1000 for 2 people) - though have to NOTE: tickets are non-refundable, non-exchangeable, basically the “lowest” priority category tickets.
May 18th, 9:30pm - get to JFK, check in, told flight was delayed for 3 hours since they can’t land in Lima due to fog...which means they get into Lima at 9:30am, oh no my connecting Lima to Cusco (book separately) flight is at 9:30 (I gave myself a 3 hour window). No problems, since LAN screwed up, they convienently changed my separately booked connecting flight to 12:30pm. What a boring wait at the airport though.
LAN plane experience: not too bad, more leg room than AA, newer plane with bigger tv screens, overnight flight means you sleep, food is ehh, but that’s what you expect.
May 19th, 8:30am - Arrive in Lima’s airport, customs was a breeze, waited for luggage, probably 35mins of total wait time. Go check-in for our Cusco flight, they won’t bump us on earlier flights departing (note above, non-refundable, non-changeable tickets). Wait till our 12:30pm flight.
2pm-ish - Arrive in Cusco, note: view outside the window looking at the approach to Cusco is FANTASTIC!!! Got picked up from the airport by the “hotel” though we didn’t arrange NOR knew they had. Turns out they are a travel agency that works with the hotel, so they did a “courtesy” pick up (they didn’t tell us, but we figured) so we can book their tours (which we did out of convenience.
Hotel Review - Libertador in Cusco (3 night stay) - I rate it 3.5-4 star quality, based on NYC standards, don’t get me wrong, it’s great though, got a corner double balcony-ed suite (that’s what we booked). The breakfast is included, made to order omlets - ‘nough said. Rating: 4.8 on food, 4.5 on hotel.
Arrival date in Cusco - rested, walk to Plaza de Armas for dinner, dinner at some touristy place in the Plaza...there were so many people enticing you to eat at their restuarants, food rating 4.0
May 20 - picked up our Machu Picchu train tickets at the Cusco train station...we walked there, pretty nice walk, you do go off the tourist area a bit, but there’s a huge market near there. Lunch at some touristy place in Plaza de Armas. Booked a half day tour that afternoon. Toured Koricancha, the sun temple (which was located right next to our hotel), Cathedral, Sacsayhuamán, Tambomachay, some cave. Tour started 2pm, ended around 6pm...note: sun goes down at 530pm, by 6pm it’s completely dark. Picked Fallen Angels for dinner from my Fodors book, walked there from hotel, but even in empty restaurant they said “no table available”, went to Cicciolina, another Fodor recommendation, food was great rate 4.6, tour rating 4.5.
Note: The day we arrived, we were told there was a farmers strike going on, roads were blocked from going out to farther areas. Great thing for travel insurance!!! Though it didn’t affect us, cuz it was a planned strike and ended on May 21, we did get to see the road blockage when we did drive to sacred valley.
May 21 - booked a full day tour to Sacred Valley, started 9am ended 630pm-ish. Tour company for both was Dasatour. Stopped at some very local ceramic school market, Pisac (saw guinea pigs, alive and dead =(, the empanada was AWESOME, huge market, very colorful), lunch at Ollantaytambo (you typical buffet tourist lunch, rate 2.0), huayllabamba in urubamba (i think) which was really pretty, a church, I believe we were told it was the first church built. Along all the drive, we made stops to take in the awesomely beautiful mountain/valley scenery. Back in Cusco, dinner at Pacha Papa, another Fodor choice, rate 4.8, tour rating 4.5.
May 22 - early rise 5am to catch our 6:57am Vistadome train from Poroy station to Aquas Calientes (Machu Picchu). Taxi ride from hotel to Poroy was about 25 mins, cost was 30 Soles.
Vistadome train - a little disappointed, because the description hyped it to be much nicer than it actually is. But having NOT been on the backpacker train, can’t complain. The food they served, I’m giving it a 1.5 rating though. Train is ontime.
Get into Aquas Calientes around 10am - one night stay at Sumaq hotel - got picked up, checked in - didn’t get our room till later, but they offered us another room to wash up. At $700 a night, though lunch/dinner/breakfast/tea is all included, it was steep, but all 3 hotels there were that price, unless you stay at a hostel. Still better than the $1100 a night Santuary Lodge (if you have the money to splurge...i only thought about it)
Bought bus ticket and machu picchu entrance ticket - effortlessly (note bus tickets you can pay US$, but entrance ticket must pay with Soles) - lunch at some tourist place (the town is REALLY small) and again lot of people outside the eatery haggling. Also noting that there a LOT of construction, which means dust going on.
Took bus around 12pm up, 25-min approx ride, beautiful scenery, visited Machu Picchu. Last bus down is 5:30pm - written on the bus schedule.
Overnight stay at Sumaq - dinner food was fantastic, rating 5.0, hotel rating 4.0.
May 23 - visited MP again, have to buy all new set of tickets. Lunch at Sumaq, rating 5.0. Vistadome train 3:25pm back to Poroy. Snack food rating 1. Train was about 20mins late getting back to Poroy. There was a fashion show trying to sell you stuff. Our taxi driver who brought us there told us that we can’t get a taxi from there when we arrive, so he offered to meet us, it was fine, he was there, effortlessly spotted him, back to Cusco around 25 mins. NOTE: don’t forget to look up in the sky...millions of stars so shiny!! Dinner at some local touristy spot in Cusco - we were super tired, food rating 1.5. Stayed at Libertador again.
May 24 - flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado - flight was ok, taxi from Libertador to airport was around 15 Soles, and 20 mins approx. Booked Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, for 3day/2night stay. Picked up from airport, drove to their reception check-in area, checked in, drove to dock, took boat (45 mins) to the lodge, checked in, showered, eat lunch, picked out excursions, trekked shortly (about 1 hour) at surrounding jungle, 1-hour night boat ride, THE STARS OMG!!!
Inkaterra Reserva Amazonic review - individual huts with screens instead of windows, but no curtains, try to get on that’s a bit more “secluded” because the huts are all open, no locks, but totally safe, we left all our valuables there, HOT!! And HUMID!! Accomodations I rate it 4.5 - only because during certain afternoon hours (though you’re not suppose to be there) and couple of hours at night they turn off the electricity so the ceiling fan that keeps you cool doesn’t work and I’ve woken up sweating and can’t go back to sleep, but that’s my opinion. It’s an all inclusive (except carbonated and alcohol drinks), food rating - 4.7, lunch was better options than dinner, breakfast is standard, dessert was bad though in my opinion. Note, please bring light long pants, jeans retain heat, and it’s just deadly.
May 25 - 5am rise to go on 6am Lake Sandoval trek. Muddy =) but they provide you with wellies and walking sticks. Be prepared to sweat!! Insect repelent and sun block a must. Back to lodge for shower and lunch and rest. 3pm Canopy tour. Ended around 6pm (when everything gets dark)
Jungle review - only animals seen were little crocs, birds, lots of butterflies, insects, NO monkeys =( - no malaria meds/shot needed, we got our yellow fever vaccinne, but that was NOT checked when we came back to the states. Inkaterra does make you fill out a insurance form though. Overall, everything was pretty effortless.
May 26 - leave lodge, they give you plenty of time for your flight. Flight from Puerto Maldonado to Cusco was VERY bumpy, I was scared. Our final destination was Lima, but LAN doesn’t do direct, and have to stop in Cusco, but you don’t leave the plane. Plane was delayed taking off in Puerto Maldonado, and delayed in take off from Cusco. There was some accident at Lima airport, so they couldn’t land, and had to land in Pisco to refuel, then take off to Lima, overall a 2.5hour flight took us 5 hours with a total of 6 takeoffs and landings.
Got to Lima - hotel was JW Marriott, taxi from airport to there, 40 Soles (we took a regular taxi, not those “fancy” black cars). Took around 35 mins.
JW Marriott review - all ocean view rooms, we got a corner ocean view, but Lima was FOGGY ALL 2 days we were there, we did not see sun or even the sky for the matter, just foggy...so ocean view kind of defeats the purpose. JW is pretty standard - so my rating is 4.8, we ordered a LOT of room service, my rating on that is 4.8, also went for a massage at their spa, rating 3.0 on the massage, 4.0 on attitude, 3.5 on facility.
Lima review - it’s a big city...hotel is right across from the Larcoma mall, so very accessable, took taxi to El Centro, around 20 Soles, ate lunch at local place, so cheap, for $7 soles you can get full on backed chicken and fries. Toured the underground catacomb. Saw a demonstration with riot police - but I felt safe though, cuz it seems organized, walked around El Centro. Walked along the ocean cliff in Miraflores from hotel to El Parque de Amour, pretty. Last night dinner before boarding flight home was a La Casa Nautica, Fodor choice, beautiful setting, yummy food, rating 5.0 for décor, food. 4.8 for location (it’s not walkable), 2 people, we ordered 2 appetizers, 1 soup, 2 entrees, total ~250 Soles, but they add do auto add mandatory service charges.
May 28 - 11:30pm flight from Lima to JFK - good thing it was delayed much, we were eager to get home.
Notes - airport taxes must be paid when departing all airports.
*all times are approximately, plus or minus one hour
**rating based on 1-5, 5 being highest
Jun 3rd, 2009, 12:26 PM
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Very good trip report - good details! Thanks for sharing.
I have one question however.
"Within Peru Flights - Flight from Lima to Cusco: booked on LAN Peru (to get the peruvian price, had no trouble booking all my legs on the Peruvian version site, paid via my american credit card over the phone, no problems at all, the difference is over $1000 for 2 people) - though have to NOTE: tickets are non-refundable, non-exchangeable, basically the “lowest” priority category tickets."
Could you tell me how I find the Peruvian version of the Lan site?
Thanks
I have one question however.
"Within Peru Flights - Flight from Lima to Cusco: booked on LAN Peru (to get the peruvian price, had no trouble booking all my legs on the Peruvian version site, paid via my american credit card over the phone, no problems at all, the difference is over $1000 for 2 people) - though have to NOTE: tickets are non-refundable, non-exchangeable, basically the “lowest” priority category tickets."
Could you tell me how I find the Peruvian version of the Lan site?
Thanks
Jun 4th, 2009, 04:29 AM
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Thanks for your report!
$700 a night for Sumac, wow that is very steep. I stayed at Inkaterra MP Pueblo hotel for $495 a night w/excellent meals included in April of this yr, and I thought that was steep, but the hotel does have beautiful grounds and activites and walks through the grounds that are nice, and a nice spa. Did you look into that hotel?
Your flight from PM to Lima sounds pretty awful.
I was supposed to go further up the river (4 hrs)to stay at Refugio Amazonas, but did not make it there due to a medical situation that occurred in Cuzco. I have heard and read that the farther one goes on the river away from PM, the better the wildlife viewing is, but I will have to wait til my next trip to find out.
$700 a night for Sumac, wow that is very steep. I stayed at Inkaterra MP Pueblo hotel for $495 a night w/excellent meals included in April of this yr, and I thought that was steep, but the hotel does have beautiful grounds and activites and walks through the grounds that are nice, and a nice spa. Did you look into that hotel?
Your flight from PM to Lima sounds pretty awful.
I was supposed to go further up the river (4 hrs)to stay at Refugio Amazonas, but did not make it there due to a medical situation that occurred in Cuzco. I have heard and read that the farther one goes on the river away from PM, the better the wildlife viewing is, but I will have to wait til my next trip to find out.
Jun 5th, 2009, 09:52 AM
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oh 700 on sumaq cuz i chose junior suite full board, 2 ppl, i made the mistake of not carefully reviewing and seeing i have to select TWO people instead of leaving it at just one cuz when it's full board, they charge extra for additional persion.
Jun 5th, 2009, 09:54 AM
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emd3, i forgoed inkaterra because i was staying at their amazon one, sumaq offered a 10% visa discount plus it was only a year old, so for just one night i thought why not, as for pricing for the type of room i got, it would of been the same pricing online (where i booked) but i wounldn't get 10% off at inkaterra
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