wtroberts

My husband and I are going to Maui in two weeks. We are planning on driving the road to Hana. I have been watching the message boards for helpful tips and am now more confused than ever. Initially, I thought we would rent a jeep but have seen recently many posts that suggest just a convertible is fine. Then last night I notice a post that said the road is horrible. We are staying at the Hyatt Maui so spending the night in Hana is not an option. We will have to make the trip in one day. Also we are planning on packing a lunch and stopping to see waterfalls, swim, etc. Are the waterfalls very far off the road? What type of shoes are best. Do we need tennis shoes or would sandals be okay? Any help would be appreciated.

jean

You don't need any sort of special vehicle to take the road to Hana. The road is very curvy, it's very slow going, but it's all paved. I think the 4-wheel drive comments originated with people who did a 'loop' around the island instead of going to Hana and turning around and coming back. We turned around and came back the same way.

There are lots of waterfalls to be seen from the road. There are also great ones that are off the road and you'd have to have a book or some other source to know they were there. If you're going to do any hiking at all off the road, I'd sure wear tennis shoes, hiking boots would probably be better. There's one nice waterfall where you have to 'boulder hop' to get there. I can't imagine trying to do that in sandals.

I would certainly get an early start in the morning. Save the lazy sleeping in mornings for another day....

Pamela

Hi,
A couple of years ago, we stayed at the Marriott in Kaanapali and did the Road to Hana. I would assume that you are flying in to HI from east of there, so your body/mind will be at least 2-3 hours ahead of HI time the first 2-3 days. The best thing to do is to go EARLY the first or second full day that you're in HI. Then, it won't feel like you're getting up too early.

More tips:
1. Get the audio tape.
2. Jeep or convertible is fine (we had a convertable and it was wonderful).
3. Wear comfortable shoes (preferably shoes that you don't mind getting wet).
4. Pack suncreen for the drive if you're in a convertible.
5. Bring a lunch
6. Enjoy!

We left early enough and on the way back through Paia, we stopped at Mama's Fish House around 5:15pm. That was early enough not to need a reservation and get a table with a wonderful view. I highly recommend Mama's, but if you don't get there early enough, you would need a reservation. Excellent food, fabulous view, great service, and BIG $$$. Well, not too much $$$ depending on your lifestyle. 2 drinks, appetizer, 2 entrees, and 1 dessert was $220 including tip. Well worth it!

Have fun!

bluefan01

Part I

Like yourself, I read many posts, tips and slams on this forum and read the MR guidebook before going. All that really helped. IMO, here's the breakdown of the Road to Hana (from someone in their early 30's who lives near the CA coast, and has done the Road to Hana):

Most people will agree that the infamous Road to Hana is a GENERAL term for the journey (whatever you make of it) starting from Paia to the town of Hana and even past it all the way to the O'heo Gulch aka 7 Sacred Pools, and even further if you like.

If your journey consists solely of driving the paved road, occasionally slowing down to look at the small waterfalls viewable from the road, and maybe stopping to see the Black Sand Beach before hitting the town of Hana and turning back, you have a higher chance of being disappointed than the more adventurous traveller. In your mind, the waterfalls can start to get boring (saw one, saw them all), and the coastline views too short and similar because you're trying to pay attention to the road and car ahead of you. You might even think "how is this a rainforest?..it's not as green and lush as I imagined it." Believe me, those thoughts occassionally popped into my mind during the first half of our trip.

But having done some research, those thoughts didn't linger in my mind too long because I added a few off-the-road destinations to our journey. I wasn't terribly impressed with our journey until my first side venture...

see Part II

bluefan

Part II

Our first side venture...the Nahiku Road, which was even disappointing at first. I was taking this one lane road thinking "there isn't much greenery" until I neared the end of the road. WOW! "Now this looks more like it." And at the end of the road, you find yourself right at the coastline and the view from there is amazing...so much better than any view you're going to get from THE ROAD. Not only that, but if you walk back up the road a little bit, you'll come across a cute waterfall and then a "hidden gem" where you'll venture into a pool area with two small falls. It was too serene to describe here and there was no else around.

Our next stop was to take the powered hanggliding flights at the Hana Airport with Arman, which was exhilirating...my first time up so high in the open air. We stopped off at the Black Sand Beach which is unique but crowded...checked out the town of Hana...didn't think there was much there...and headed over to Hamoa Beach to relax for 2 hours. For some strange reason, I enjoyed that beach more than the beaches in West and South Maui.

We decided to continue on further and came across two impressive waterfalls by the side of the road...great photo-ops. Far better than the ones before Hana (unless you ventured off-the-road). We finally hit the Haleakala Nat'l Park area where the Seven Sacred Pools are and the parking lot was crowded. We decided to take the Pipowi Trail (2.2 miles each way) despite it being late. Glad we did because hardly anybody else did. We eventually went through a very surreal bamboo forest only to end up at the base of the incredible Waimoku Falls. Now that's a waterfall! Hardly anyone else there to take in this stunning sight. When we finally made it back down to the Seven Sacred Pools where the crowds had left by now, I wasn't too impressed. It was OK...but nothing compared to what I had just previously encountered.

For some reason and having read prior posts, I thought it wouldn't be so bad to continue to drive on, not turning back, through Kaupo. WRONG CHOICE but at least I can laugh back on it now...but my wife still can't. It wasn't the un-paved roads that were rough...it was the endless miles of asphalt hell. Taking a compact car through all those potholes at less than 10 miles per hour hoping and praying I wouldn't suffer a flat was a tortuous affair. When I finally came across the paved road, it felt like heaven...back to some peace of mind and body (FYI, there's a short strip of paved road somewhere that psyches you out only to dash your short-lived joy). Don't do it unless you take a 4x4.

Sorry, I feel like I've been babbling on forever. Anyways, the journey is what you make of it. Plan ahead...adding in a few uncrowded gems...and you'll probably fall into the "Loved It" crowd like myself. I liken it to taking PCH along the CA coastline without having an inkling as to where all the charming spots are...nice views initially and at a few spots along the way, but what's the big deal? You've got to be in the know to get the most out of either road trips.

By the way, I stayed at Hyatt (great) in July, left a little after 6am and ended back at Lahaina a little after 9pm to get some grub. Tiring...but well worth it. ENJOY!!!

j

We were glad to have bug spray in July. There were a lot of mosquitoes hanging around some of the pools where my husband & son swam.

joan

Hello there! Here's my two cents:
Just back this week from our first ever trip to gorgeous Hawaii. I have to agree with *almost* everything bluefan has said...we were so psyched about Hana, we booked two nights there in an incredibly romantic house (more about that later). We left later than most folks, since we knew we'd be staying in Hana, which worked out great (10 AM). We also did the same side diversion as bluefan, a little detour to Nihiku (MR says it's where plants go to heaven!). What a thrill. There was even a roadside honor stand where we picked up the biggest bouquet of flowers I've ever had - for $5!!! We continued to our house rental (the Hamoa Bay House (& bungalow - we got the house). Very special, gourmet kitchen, japanese tub, outdoor shower, flowers and about two dozen candles just waiting to be lit. Aaah! We had dinner res at Hotel Hana Maui where we were treated to a wonderful keiki (kids) hula show and a nice dinner. The next day we did the same hike as bluefan (Pipiwai) and that bamboo forest was something my husband and I will never forget. It's at the upper portion of the Oheo gulch and has several pools along the way. We could not swim though because it had rained - alot - and the streams were swollen, brownish, and kinda dangerous (a park ranger even yelled at me for getting to close to the top of a waterfall). Back to the house for a bottle of wine and dinner in our coze abode.

SHOES: before our trip I bought those $5 neon beach slippers with the textured bottoms. Although my husband made fun of me, I thought they were great! My tevas get waterlogged and the soles are too thick to get a good feel for the rocks, but those shoes were great. It was very muddy, but the best hike I've ever been on (even better than the first part of the Kalalau trail on Kauaui IMHO).

As for the "backside" of the road, that's what we took the third day, for our return to the airport to continue to Kauai. Don't know if conditions have changed, but our convertible did JUST FINE. It was slow going for about 5 miles, potholes and gravel, but it was so unique, so opposite of the rainforest side. We even had the great fortune of discovering a monk seal sleeping on the beach as we rounded a turn. My husband (who hadn't read Maui Revealed) thought for sure it was dead, and insisted on checking. It wasn't til later I told him there were fines up to $25K for "harassing" them (he didn't get too close).

If I could do it again, I'd rent that house for four or five nights, and explore all the places I missed. Have fun - even for just a day, you'll love it!

xxx

I don't know how this somewhat scenic and moderately interesting day long drive gets so much attention. It is nice but not one of the top attraction on Maui !!

Lenore

I would have to agree with xxx. The road to Hana is good, but not great. We've done drives on the mountain side of North Carolina (Sapphire and Asheville areas) that were much more spectacular as far as waterfalls and scenery are concerned. Our favorite activites in Maui were whale watching and a kayak/snorkeling trip. Don't pump it up too much because you may end up feeling cheated. We loved our adventure, but I don't think we'd do it again (and we never even made it to Hana!)

bluefan

It astonishes me why posters above like xxx and Lenore curtly discount the Road to Hana as being overhyped and not one of the better attractions on Maui. What's their basis? Sure it may not be subjectively as nice as plenty of other drives we all know, but why discourage the first-time goer from experiencing it for her/himself. Frankly, who cares about some drive in North Carolina...let's stay on the subject of Maui. As pointed out in my earlier post, I thought the best parts of the journey were after Hana. And Lenore didn't even make it to Hana so how could he/she offer a "full" opinion.

"Our favorite activites were..." Well guess what, you have to pay for those activites listed, a lot $$$ sometimes. Now how much does to Road to Hana cost?

On those excursions listed, you'll have a guide who should take you to or point out things of most interest. That's what you're paying them for. Left out on their own, maybe xxx and Lenore didn't know the better areas along the Road to Hana...so maybe it was a waste of their time heading out on a touted journey with little or no guidance.

Anyways, like I said before, if you plan ahead and incorporate a few untouristed side trips along the way, you'll have a greater chance of appreciating the trip. You don't have to spend much money, and, in my opinion, is worth a whole day or more if you go with some insight and info other than the rental car map. ENJOY IT!!!

bluefan

To wtroberts, the following post is not to go over the merits of the Road to Hana like in my previous posts but rather to provide some answers to specific questions you originally posted.

Either a jeep or convertible is terrific for the trip. Do wear sunscreen if you have an open top. We saw a few hapless fools who had the "pale sash" (sunburnt except for the diagonal strip covered by the shoulder strap). Although if you plan to drive all the way around, a 4x4 would be more desirable.

Waterfalls are next to, close to and quite a walk from the Road. On some trails, there's a series of waterfalls, generally going from smaller to larger the deeper you take the trail. Keep in mind, most tourists don't venture more than 0.5 miles on a trail from the road so you're likely to experience larger and more secluded waterfalls the further you go (so get a good guidebook like MR to know which trails are worthwhile). IMO, the Pipowi Trail above the Seven Sacred Pools was clearly the best but you have to alot at least 2 hours).

Plenty of people I saw hiked in tennis shoes and sandals, but the trails can get muddy and very slippery, depending on the amount of rainfall. Hiking boots or duck shoes would be better if it's muddy but they're not necessary. Also, if you tend to attract swarms of mosquitoes like me, take insect repellant like a previous poster mentioned. BTW, the ones containing DEET are the most effective. Some trails are more infested than others.

Tip: get a foam cooler (only $2 to $5 dollars at ABC), also ask for a complimentary mini fridge at the Hyatt to store your drinks, and take the cooler with you on the Road to Hana and other trips. Having cold drinks easily accessible on hikes, picnics and remote beach trips will have hot and thirsty tourists envying your foresight.

And I agree with Pamela, Mama's Fish House is an absolute must and worth every $$$$ ($130 for tip, 1 app, 2 ent, 1 alc, 1 dess) you spend. Best to time to reserve is right before sunset...outstanding scenery in front of restaurant.

xxx

Why does Bluefan find it hard to believe that other people might actually disagree with his (her) opinion about the Road to Hana ? There are many who think that the road to Hana is over rated, and readers of this forum want to hear all opinions, not just those that represent one point of view.
Bluefan asks what the basis is for our unfavourable opinions. The answer is that the Road to Hana does not compare very well to many other scenic drives, but Bluefan does not think that anybody cares about comparisons to other drives.
Also, the road to Hana is not free as Bluefan suggests. It costs one whole day of your valuable vacation time !!!

wtroberts

Thanks everyone for all the helpful tips! We are still going regardless of the couple of "not worth it" posts. I just got a copy of Maui Revealed but am waiting for the plane ride to read it. Does it tell about all the "gems" that you must hike back to see?

joan

Yes, wt, it tells you all the good spots, and how much trouble it is to get to them. I'd read it beforehand, though, because you can plan other activities using the book also, like restaurants, snorkeling, helicopter, etc. By the way, I felt (maybe I'm just too out-of-shape!) that the author UNDER estimated the difficulty of some of the hikes. The Olivine Pools for example: I was determined to go there. After hiking down to the blowhole just prior to the pools, we were a little tired. Then we saw that the pools were WAY WAY down a cliff, with no discernible trail. We skipped them (sat at the top and ate our lunch - and watched other folks walk up, see the distance, and turn around and get back in their cars). And bluefan, that Pipowai hike took us 3 1/2 hours (including lunch stop) - don't know how you did it in two - did you run ? Have fun!

Lenore

Apparently Bluefan does not understand the meaning of the word "opinion", which is what I was offering about our experience with the Road to Hana. (By the way, I did say we enjoyed the adventure, but it that we wouldn't do it again.) After seeing dozens of roaring waterfalls in North Carolina and Yosemite National Park, both of which involve driving on winding roads and hikes to the falls, I thought it was an apt comparison. Hana's falls were much smaller and less spectacular than many others I've seen. We stopped at many of the places mentioned in Maui Revealed, maybe too many since we literally ran out of time and had to turn back before reaching Hana. Like I said, we loved it but loved other activities even more....and they don't take a full day.

Tam

Hi! I have been to Maui 4 times and am currentlly planning my next trip! I would definately suggest driving around the whole western side of the island. Most people take the northern route to Hana, but few know that the southern route is spectacular!!! This trip can be made in one day, but you may need to leave early if you plan on stopping and walking trails and looking for waterfalls. I would definately suggest buying a tape, it will tell you where to look for interesting sites and where all the waterfalls are. While many people drive to hana and back, if you go all the way around you will not run into the traffic. In other words drive to Hana but instead of turning around and going back the same way you came, just keep going. You will want to stop at the 7 pools, you park and take a short 5 minute hike to the pools and you can swim and cliff dive or just look at the beauty of it all! The road ahead is great! You may want to pack a lunch so that you can stop when you are ready to eat, and just find a grassy spot or take allong some chairs. Some of the companys that sell tapes will also provide coolers. You may find some local fruit for sale along the road, and I would highly suggest you try some! The road may get bumpy after you pass Hana but be assured that it doesn't last for only a couple of miles, before it is paved again. There arn't any pot holes it is just a dirt road. We did not drive it in a jeep just in a four door car so dont wory about a jeep! Your best bet would be tennis shoes over sandles. But take your sandles to if you go to the seven pools you dont want to get your tennies wet. Well if you have any questions or need more information I would be happy to help, just E-mail me!

bluefan

Lenore and xxx, myself and others respect all opinions, be they positive or negative. In fact, I find critical posts here on Fodors forums to be very insightful to save me from wasting time and money on possible tourist traps or bad hotels. But in this case, it seemed the original poster was planning to take the Road to Hana and wanted some specific advice...quite possibly as to how to best enjoy it.

As pointed out in my first reply, I noted some of the reasons why people could view it as a waste of time as xxx felt...and at times I felt that way also. But I also wanted to share the things on our trip that made it worthwhile and those were the items I shared in detail. We all realize that the Road to Hana is not an absolute paradise, but let's all try to help those inquisitive first timers as to how they might best enjoy it since they're all going to do it anyways irregardless of our opinions.

grammar

There is no such word as "irregardless" !!

Lenore

Actually, irregardless is a word. It is however, non-standard and always considered improper. The proper word to use is regardless.

wtroberts

I didn't mean for everyone to squabble over my question. I appreciate getting to hear from both sides. Everyone has been helpful. By the way, do you all know one another? You talk like you have known each other a long time. Are you all extensive travelers? Just wondering.