No. Calif, So. Ore coast trip report
Oct 24th, 2005, 02:55 PM
#1
Original Poster
No. Calif, So. Ore coast trip report
Starting Oct 3 -- Left Sacramento around 7 a.m. and drove up I-5 to Williams and then on hwy 20 across to the coast. It was so nice driving around Clear Lake w/o all the summer crowds and traffic. I'd forgotten how pretty the Lake County scenery is. The only fog, iffy weather I had the whole trip was right around Willits. All of a sudden it got REALLY foggy/drizzly. But as soon as I started down the hill on hwy 20 towards the coast it cleared up and by the time I got to Ft Bragg it was clear and warm. In fact it was warmer on the coast than it was in Sacramento.
From Ft Bragg I went south to Mendocino and spent a couple of hours wandering around the village that is almost too scenic for its own good. While Mendocino is still lovely, it isn't nearly as nice as it was 20 / 30 years ago. This was on a Monday morning on Oct and the entire town was chockablock w/ cars. Had to do a double loop around and through town before I could even find a parking place.
Leaving Mendocino I took a slight detour into Caspar and the state beach. Years ago my folks owned property on Caspar headlands and I went looking for it. Then on to Noyo Harbor at Ft Bragg. Had a TERRIFIC seafood lunch at the bottom of the cliff and then went up into Ft Bragg to wander around and shop. Found a wonderful bookshop w/ LOTS of books about the local area, and some very nice clothing and kitchen shops.
By then it was nearly 4 p.m. so I headed north on my way to Garberville for the first 2 nights. The beaches/cliffs on hwy 1 between Ft Bragg and Rockport are truly beautiful - sort of the Big Sur of the north. But a warning to anyone traveling this route- once you leave the cast at Rockport and head east to Leggett the road is VERY winding. If there had been anyone else in the car we definitely would have had a car sickness issue. I love to drive those sorts of roads - but even w/ the steering wheel it was a pretty urpy drive.
Arrived at the Benbow Inn in Garberville just after 6 p.m. I have wanted to stay there since I was a child and it was just wonderful. I had the smallest/cheapest room in the place and it was still great. Beautiful reproduction furniture, decanter of sherry, lovely view over the terrace and gardens, etc. The bathroom was very small but beautifully decorated w/ high quality linens, toiletries, etc. The public rooms are very comfortable/posh with roaring fire, reading areas, games tables and so on. The grounds are really beautiful too w/ gardens down to the river. And the pub bar was my home from home w/ a very good selection of single malt whiskys and even Pimm's. The Benbow has a terrific off-season special - 3 nights for the cost of 2 or 50% off the second night if you are only staying 2 nights. So my $130 per night room only averaged $97.50 per night. I will definitely stay there again, maybe in one of the larger suites next time.
Garberville is a small logging town in the middle of wonderful scenery. It is really the gateway to the best of the north coast redwoods. I have very good friends who live in Garberville so the next day we went to breakfast and then they took me on an all-day tour all over the country. We drove the Avenue of the Giants, stopped in several groves, went to Scotia, Ferndale and even stopped and paid 'dues' in one of the local Indian Casinos. Scotia is a company town built by a lumber company more than a century ago to house all of its employees and is really interesting. And then there is Ferndale with some of the most beautiful Victorian houses in N. California. Had a terrififc lunch in the old hotel and visited some really original shops and galleries.
After two nights at the Benbow I headed north on hwy 101 on my way to Gold Beach OR for the next night. The drive was very easy and pretty restful. The only traffic of any sort was in the bottleneck where 101 goes through Eureka. The whole rest of the trip was practically traffic free. Stopped at a few parks and beauty spots. Went down to the pier in Trinidad and had a REALLY yummy fish/scallops/clams/prawn and chips lunch.
Interestingly, when I crossed the state line there was no big "Welcome to Oregon" sign. The only way one knows for sure you are in Oregon is the different font on the speed limit signs. This part of the coast is really pretty and I stopped at just about every wide spot in the road to take pictures. Made it to Irelands (recommended by a couple of fodorites) in Gold Beach by about 5 p.m. Ireland's was a GOOD choice. I had a funky/old fashioned cabin w/ a wood burning fireplace and even a garage, only steps to a fabulous beach. There are also regular motel type rooms and fancier suites. I walked up the street to a small but nice supermarket and got all the fixings for a nice dinner in my little cabin. The weather was soooo nice - I took two long walks on the beach and didn't even need a sweater.
On the way north my car had started leaking something that didn't look good so the next morning I took it to a garage recommended by Ireland's staff. They put it up on the lift, checked all the fluids, belts etc and decided it was just condensation/minor leakage from the a/c. The mechanic spent about 30 mins on the car and they didn't charge me a cent!
Left Gold Beach and headed to Port Orford w/ about 10 photo ops along the way. At Port Orford I walked to the beach near the visitors center. Then went to the coast guard station museum and hiked a couple of the trails out to look for whales and amazing views. The docents at the coastguard station were a couple who live in my hometown. They volunteer at various light houses/museums along the OR coast. Cape Blanco is right outside Port Orford and I stopped there and toured the Lighthouse.
Then it was on to Bandon. Stayed at a funky place - the Sea Star guesthouse. This was just wonderful, especially for the price. It is a hostel and café w/ some nicer units right on the harbor front in the old town part of Bandon. I had a fireplace, skylight, fridge, microwave, front deck w/ a bench and wonderful views over the marina/harbor - all for $55. Wandered around old Bandon, had a couple of good meals and just basically kicked back.
After the one day/night in Bandon I headed east t to visit my favorite uncle who lives in Roseburg. Enroute I saw cranberry bogs, a covered bridge and lots of pretty mountain scenery and leaves just starting to turn. From there it was a couple of days down I-5 through Ashland, Mt Shasta to visit more relatives and back home to Sacramento.
I definitely plan on heading back up that way again to the redwoods, CA and OR coastlines, and the Benbow.
From Ft Bragg I went south to Mendocino and spent a couple of hours wandering around the village that is almost too scenic for its own good. While Mendocino is still lovely, it isn't nearly as nice as it was 20 / 30 years ago. This was on a Monday morning on Oct and the entire town was chockablock w/ cars. Had to do a double loop around and through town before I could even find a parking place.
Leaving Mendocino I took a slight detour into Caspar and the state beach. Years ago my folks owned property on Caspar headlands and I went looking for it. Then on to Noyo Harbor at Ft Bragg. Had a TERRIFIC seafood lunch at the bottom of the cliff and then went up into Ft Bragg to wander around and shop. Found a wonderful bookshop w/ LOTS of books about the local area, and some very nice clothing and kitchen shops.
By then it was nearly 4 p.m. so I headed north on my way to Garberville for the first 2 nights. The beaches/cliffs on hwy 1 between Ft Bragg and Rockport are truly beautiful - sort of the Big Sur of the north. But a warning to anyone traveling this route- once you leave the cast at Rockport and head east to Leggett the road is VERY winding. If there had been anyone else in the car we definitely would have had a car sickness issue. I love to drive those sorts of roads - but even w/ the steering wheel it was a pretty urpy drive.
Arrived at the Benbow Inn in Garberville just after 6 p.m. I have wanted to stay there since I was a child and it was just wonderful. I had the smallest/cheapest room in the place and it was still great. Beautiful reproduction furniture, decanter of sherry, lovely view over the terrace and gardens, etc. The bathroom was very small but beautifully decorated w/ high quality linens, toiletries, etc. The public rooms are very comfortable/posh with roaring fire, reading areas, games tables and so on. The grounds are really beautiful too w/ gardens down to the river. And the pub bar was my home from home w/ a very good selection of single malt whiskys and even Pimm's. The Benbow has a terrific off-season special - 3 nights for the cost of 2 or 50% off the second night if you are only staying 2 nights. So my $130 per night room only averaged $97.50 per night. I will definitely stay there again, maybe in one of the larger suites next time.
Garberville is a small logging town in the middle of wonderful scenery. It is really the gateway to the best of the north coast redwoods. I have very good friends who live in Garberville so the next day we went to breakfast and then they took me on an all-day tour all over the country. We drove the Avenue of the Giants, stopped in several groves, went to Scotia, Ferndale and even stopped and paid 'dues' in one of the local Indian Casinos. Scotia is a company town built by a lumber company more than a century ago to house all of its employees and is really interesting. And then there is Ferndale with some of the most beautiful Victorian houses in N. California. Had a terrififc lunch in the old hotel and visited some really original shops and galleries.
After two nights at the Benbow I headed north on hwy 101 on my way to Gold Beach OR for the next night. The drive was very easy and pretty restful. The only traffic of any sort was in the bottleneck where 101 goes through Eureka. The whole rest of the trip was practically traffic free. Stopped at a few parks and beauty spots. Went down to the pier in Trinidad and had a REALLY yummy fish/scallops/clams/prawn and chips lunch.
Interestingly, when I crossed the state line there was no big "Welcome to Oregon" sign. The only way one knows for sure you are in Oregon is the different font on the speed limit signs. This part of the coast is really pretty and I stopped at just about every wide spot in the road to take pictures. Made it to Irelands (recommended by a couple of fodorites) in Gold Beach by about 5 p.m. Ireland's was a GOOD choice. I had a funky/old fashioned cabin w/ a wood burning fireplace and even a garage, only steps to a fabulous beach. There are also regular motel type rooms and fancier suites. I walked up the street to a small but nice supermarket and got all the fixings for a nice dinner in my little cabin. The weather was soooo nice - I took two long walks on the beach and didn't even need a sweater.
On the way north my car had started leaking something that didn't look good so the next morning I took it to a garage recommended by Ireland's staff. They put it up on the lift, checked all the fluids, belts etc and decided it was just condensation/minor leakage from the a/c. The mechanic spent about 30 mins on the car and they didn't charge me a cent!
Left Gold Beach and headed to Port Orford w/ about 10 photo ops along the way. At Port Orford I walked to the beach near the visitors center. Then went to the coast guard station museum and hiked a couple of the trails out to look for whales and amazing views. The docents at the coastguard station were a couple who live in my hometown. They volunteer at various light houses/museums along the OR coast. Cape Blanco is right outside Port Orford and I stopped there and toured the Lighthouse.
Then it was on to Bandon. Stayed at a funky place - the Sea Star guesthouse. This was just wonderful, especially for the price. It is a hostel and café w/ some nicer units right on the harbor front in the old town part of Bandon. I had a fireplace, skylight, fridge, microwave, front deck w/ a bench and wonderful views over the marina/harbor - all for $55. Wandered around old Bandon, had a couple of good meals and just basically kicked back.
After the one day/night in Bandon I headed east t to visit my favorite uncle who lives in Roseburg. Enroute I saw cranberry bogs, a covered bridge and lots of pretty mountain scenery and leaves just starting to turn. From there it was a couple of days down I-5 through Ashland, Mt Shasta to visit more relatives and back home to Sacramento.
I definitely plan on heading back up that way again to the redwoods, CA and OR coastlines, and the Benbow.
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Oct 24th, 2005, 03:55 PM
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Janis, what a great trip! And I agree about hwy 1 - makes you to remember all prayers you thought you've forgotten 
Michelle, what a lovely idea, is Yountville too far away for you? We can gather at Kal's house
Michelle, what a lovely idea, is Yountville too far away for you? We can gather at Kal's house
Oct 24th, 2005, 04:08 PM
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JJ,
Great TR.
I still need to explore the CaliCoast from Ft Bragg up.
I've only been over to Eureka then down 101.
Becareful Michelle Y on GTGs.
People will think you are seeking approval, want to be a groupie and a cool clique member. :-"
Faina...What AM I going to do with you?!?!?!?
Great TR.
I still need to explore the CaliCoast from Ft Bragg up.
I've only been over to Eureka then down 101.
Becareful Michelle Y on GTGs.
People will think you are seeking approval, want to be a groupie and a cool clique member. :-"
Faina...What AM I going to do with you?!?!?!?
Oct 24th, 2005, 04:10 PM
#6
If there was no "Welcome to Oregon" sign it's a recent development. Maybe some trucker took it out?
I have yet to pass through Eureka, except once maybe at 10 at night, when 101 wasn't a bottleneck. I presume it's the work of local businesses fearing commerce will "escape" if they don't slow it down. Fact of the matter, it discourages me from wanting to stop at all in Eureka, just get through as fast as possible. Provided I don't need a major calorie infuation in Samoa. Which I don't, truth told. But I tell myself I do most times.
I have yet to pass through Eureka, except once maybe at 10 at night, when 101 wasn't a bottleneck. I presume it's the work of local businesses fearing commerce will "escape" if they don't slow it down. Fact of the matter, it discourages me from wanting to stop at all in Eureka, just get through as fast as possible. Provided I don't need a major calorie infuation in Samoa. Which I don't, truth told. But I tell myself I do most times.
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Oct 24th, 2005, 04:18 PM
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Let's don't rain on the lovely JanisJ's parade.
Feel free to contact me at
[email protected] anytime for a GTG planning session.
Lodi????
Feel free to contact me at
[email protected] anytime for a GTG planning session.
Lodi????
Oct 24th, 2005, 04:22 PM
#9
Original Poster
MichelleY: yes - I think there are several Sacramento area fodorites. Between Sacto, South Placer and El Dorado counties we probably have enough for a GTG -- but Yountville is great too.
Gardyloo: "it discourages me from wanting to stop at all in Eureka" That is exactly how I felt - I had thought about stopping in Eureka/Arcata but after winding all through Eureka all I wanted to do was get out of there ASAP.
Gardyloo: "it discourages me from wanting to stop at all in Eureka" That is exactly how I felt - I had thought about stopping in Eureka/Arcata but after winding all through Eureka all I wanted to do was get out of there ASAP.
Oct 24th, 2005, 04:58 PM
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janisj-Great report and timely for us !We are off to Mendocino (staying at Stevenswood in Little River) on Wed
and are going to try Hwy 20 for the first time, how was it ? How long was it from Willits to Ft. Bragg ?
Do you remember the name of the fabulous lunch spot "Had a TERRIFIC seafood lunch at the bottom of the cliff" Noyo Harbor- where ? Now you've made me hungry
Sorry to hear Mendocino continues to get more crowded-I think I enjoy Ft. Bragg a bit better ! Do you recall the name of the book and kitchen shops ?
Thanks !
R5
and are going to try Hwy 20 for the first time, how was it ? How long was it from Willits to Ft. Bragg ?
Do you remember the name of the fabulous lunch spot "Had a TERRIFIC seafood lunch at the bottom of the cliff" Noyo Harbor- where ? Now you've made me hungry
Sorry to hear Mendocino continues to get more crowded-I think I enjoy Ft. Bragg a bit better ! Do you recall the name of the book and kitchen shops ?
Thanks !
R5
Oct 24th, 2005, 05:27 PM
#12
Original Poster
hi, RazzleDazzle. Can't help you w/ the names of specific shops in Ft Bragg. I just wandered through the main old town part of town. There is street parking all along the "tree" streets (Redwood, Alder, Oak etc) and Franklin. All through this area on the east side of hwy 1 are the old downtown bldgs w/ lots of good (and some funky) shops.
In Noyo I ate at a place called "Captain [something]. I think it was either Cap. Mike's or Mitch or something like that. As you can tell I wasn't taking notes It was just about next to Sharon's which is one of the larger restaurants down in Noyo.
Hwy 20 from Willits to Ft Bragg was not long, maybe 40/45 minutes. It is a narrow road but there was almost no traffic.
In Noyo I ate at a place called "Captain [something]. I think it was either Cap. Mike's or Mitch or something like that. As you can tell I wasn't taking notes
It was just about next to Sharon's which is one of the larger restaurants down in Noyo.Hwy 20 from Willits to Ft Bragg was not long, maybe 40/45 minutes. It is a narrow road but there was almost no traffic.
Oct 26th, 2005, 03:41 PM
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Enjoyed the report, as it covered areas where we have travelled many times over the years. Have to agree that Mendo has gotten just too popular most of the year, but it still can be quiet in the middle of winter (at least it was a couple of years ago!).
As to travel sickness, try taking ginger capsules. Ginger is amazing and really seems to make a difference -- it's even acceptable for pregnant women during morning sickness.
Happy future travels!
As to travel sickness, try taking ginger capsules. Ginger is amazing and really seems to make a difference -- it's even acceptable for pregnant women during morning sickness.
Happy future travels!
Oct 27th, 2005, 09:52 AM
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Hi janisj
Great report. The wife and I drove from Eureka to Bandon on the 7th. There is a sign welcome to Oregon it is on the east side if the road but it is very small and you have to look for it. I saw it because I was looking the wife was driving. There is a way around 101 through Eureka. You get off at ..... Oh I forgot thats just for locals.
Have Fun
GP
Great report. The wife and I drove from Eureka to Bandon on the 7th. There is a sign welcome to Oregon it is on the east side if the road but it is very small and you have to look for it. I saw it because I was looking the wife was driving. There is a way around 101 through Eureka. You get off at ..... Oh I forgot thats just for locals.
Have Fun
GP
Oct 30th, 2005, 07:15 AM
#19
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"we featured it in this week's Fodor's newsletter." I hadn't seen your post - thanks. Like FainaAgain I didn't really pay much attention to the newsletter -- but now I have 
(Faina, you can enter your e-mail address on the main "Talk" page to receive the newsletter)
GP: About the sign - since I wrote that a couple of people told me there is a sign. But I sure didn't see it - and I was looking. Oh, well - no biggy. Maybe I was next to a big rig when I crossed into Oregon and it blocked my view of the sign.
(Faina, you can enter your e-mail address on the main "Talk" page to receive the newsletter) GP: About the sign - since I wrote that a couple of people told me there is a sign. But I sure didn't see it - and I was looking. Oh, well - no biggy. Maybe I was next to a big rig when I crossed into Oregon and it blocked my view of the sign.
