wintertraveler

Maybe I'm crazy but we're considering a winter visit in late December to WA state (only time we can get a full week) and I'm wondering just how much we will get to see of the great outdoors. We would like to see at least Port Townsend, Friday Harbor, some of the Olympic National Forest, etc. I realize distant views in the rain and mist will be limited but otherwise does anyone have experience at this time of year?

John

The Olympic NP rain forest (on the Pacific side of the peninsula) is grand in mid winter - very wet, obviously, but misty and spooky and really other-worldly. Plus the Roosevelt Elk from the Olympic Mts. in the center of the park come down to the lowlands, so the wildlife viewing can be spectacular, too. The nearby open coast can also be beautifully stormy and scenic, but you must come prepared for rotten weather, also book accommodation early because lots of folks come out for stormwatching weekends. On the north shore, Hurricane Ridge (near Port Angeles) can be snowy, but the access road is usually open and the views of the snowy mountains can be awesome.

Port Townsend and the San Juans are generally much drier and offer good visiting opportunities, too. Daylight is short, don't forget.

wintertraveler

Thank you John - just what I was hoping to hear. We're okay with the short days since we are very early risers and are typically worn out by dinner anyway. Sounds like we may have some quiet beauty this time of year - which would be perfect. Any advice on lodgings in Port Townsend or Friday Harbor? I've seen some web sites but no personal recommendation. We'd like to stay where we'd have a scneic view and close proximity to restaurants. Budget is pretty flexible if the place is right.

John

Really don't have any personal recommendations for places to stay in Friday Harbor or Port Townsend we usually only go there on day trips - but there ought to be plenty of opinions on the US forum - use the (very slow) search function above.

Bear in mind that getting to the Olympic Peninsula from the San Juans involves two ferries and a fair amount of driving - in the midwinter it will consume most of a daylight period. If you want, you can combine a stay at Friday Harbor with a day ore overnight visit to Victoria BC via the Washington State ferry, then catch the (private) Coho over to Port Angeles on the Olympic Peninsula.

Ms. Ghost

The Highland Inn on San Juan is fabulous! (see www.highlandinn.com for details). It's only a 10 min. drive max outside of Friday Harbor and has ALL the comforts and more---only two rooms and each has a woodburning fireplace, Jacuzzi tub plus a steam shower......great views and wonderful grourmet breakfasts served either in your room or in the dining room (your choice). It's an incredible place and I'd highly recommend it regardless of weather!

BTilke

I love, love, love the OP at that time of year. My in-laws lived in Sequim and I spent quite a bit of time in PT (worked there for a while). You can enjoy coffee with the locals, the shops are relaxed and uncrowded, parking is a lot easier, and it just has a great feel.
Re accommodations, what do you like? I am not a B & B person, although PT has some good ones. We like to stay at the Harborside Motel. Rooms are clean and comfortable; ask for a second floor room with water view--you'll have your own balcony. The rooms have microwaves and little fridges in them which come in handy. Some of the best restaurants in town are Khu Larb and Sentosa. The best coffee is at a little place off Water Street just down from the movie theatre (I keep forgetting the name). Either have it there and enjoy listening to the locals exchange news or get it to go and wander up to Chetzemoka Park or out on one of the piers.
For more info, check www.ptguide.com or read some of the weekly newspaper, the PT Leader (www.ptleader.com new editions posted Thursdays).
Sequim is actually pretty sunny year round. Visit the Purple Haze Lavender Farm (for the store); walk the beaches; look at the Route 101 Elk Herd. You can also take snowshoe classes up on Hurricane Ridge (informally offered and there's no regular schedule; ask at the tourist office in Sequim or PT).
Ahhh....I could go on all day about the wonderful OP. When our stint in Europe is over, we're going to make PT our permanent home.
BTilke

wintertraveler

We're more of the "inn" type I think though we've stayed at a few B&B's over the years - we prefer a small inn or better yet, a cottage with a kitchen so we can do some meals at "home." I'll check out that Coho ferry option - may be our best bet for San Juan visit.

Thank you again - any other tips appreciated of course.

wintertraveler

I hoped to find a website for the Harborside Inn but didn't see one - it sounds like a good option for us by your description and location so I will call them for info. I really appreciate the restaurant recommendations and the coffee shop as well - sounds perfect. I think we will like the quiet time of year as well, I just hope we can still see a bit of the outdoors since we really enjoy hiking.

One thing we've considered is staying in PT a few nights, taking the ferry over to Whidbey Island and staying for one night, then moving on to Friday Harbor for another night, then back via the Coho ferry to Port Angeles (hope I have that right). We could then either stay in Port Angeles or go ahead and get back to Seattle for our flight home.

The only downside is that I wish we could travel without a car (more relaxing) but I don't see any way we can do it, unless we skip seeing Friday Harbor and San Juans this trip and focus on Port Townsend, and maybe rent a car for a day or two to see some nature.

Any comments?

BTilke

The Harborside is very moderately priced and I have to advise you that it's not high on "atmosphere"--no fireplace to cozy up to, etc. But it's modern and comfortable and views from the waterside rooms are great.
If you eat at Khu Larb (the PT one; not the offshoot in Sequim, which isn't as good), order the mixed seafood soup and ask them to put a little coconut milk in. I think it's the best soup I've ever tasted. Their smoked tea is really good, too.
If you get in the mood for hamburgers at lunch, head down Water Street to the very end and onto the marina. There's a small restaurant there called the Landfall (locals jokingly call it the Landfill). Delicious hamburgers and homemade fries and a woodburning stove to take off the chill.
The Pink Rose Cafe a half block from Water Street is the prettiest coffee shop in town, but their coffee isn't the best. Their cinnamon crispies though are addictive, get some to go and munch them on your hikes.
The QFC in Sequim and PT have pretty good deli departments (I like the one in Sequim a little better) for getting takeout and their lattes are surprisingly good. By the way, if you turn right at the Les Schwab tire store (just past the QFC in Sequim), take that road til it dead ends (about a mile), then turn right and go to the beach, it's great fossil hunting and beach-combing territory after a storm. Locals have found some amazing things there.
The best shopping in PT is at the Earthenworks gallery. Nothing chintzy or tacky there--high quality arts and crafts. There's a woodcraft store near Khu Larb that has some outstanding handcrafted wood furniture and they'll ship anywhere (I'm still thinking about the myrtlewood chest they have). Run by Aussies, I think.
You are making me homesick!!
BTilke (Brussels)

wintertraveler

So, just to sum up - I think we may try to limit our travel to the peninsula this time. Maybe do the first night in Seattle as we'll arrive late and would like to catch up with some friends, the next three nights in Port Townsend and area, a night in Victoria and maybe the last night back in Seattle to be sure we aren't rushed to make our flight. the only thing I'm uncertain about is Victoria - do you think Victoria is worth it? We enjoy nice scenary (old buildings, nice parks and the like), love art galleries, small cafes, etc. but aren't really into museums per se.

Thanks again for your input, it helps so much to have a personal opinion.

Jayne

Winter Traveller...

I know you may have made up your mind... But I just wanted to tell you about this place in Whidby Island..

I friend of mine did a romantic weekend getaway, and said that they truly enjoyed their time there... Especially the massage treatment which is an added bonus.

http://www.heartsease.net/Main.html

jul

I'm going back for my second visit-love Port Townsend. I recommend Manresa Castle, www.manresacastle.com We explored Fort Worden and all the shops down by Water St. Officer and a Gentleman was filmed there.

Jayne

Seattle Times has just completed a special travel piece on San Juan

http://local.nwsource.com/travel/tf_city?id=17

www.seattletimes.com

Shana

You have to tell us how it went when you return. If possible, keep your plans as flexible as possible, as the weather may deter you from pursuing some interests. This is a wet, dark winter, thusfar, and the clouds have been hanging awfully low. It's good for the skin, though, living in a cool moisure bath.

wintertraveler

We did decide on a cottage in Port Townsend and for one night we'll stay at Lake Quinault Lodge so we can explore the Hoh Rain Forest. Now, I'm wondering about a place for Christmas dinner. Anyone know of a good place in Port Townsend (upscale is fine) for Christmas dinner?

steve

Winter Travler - We're headed to Port Angeles area at roughly the same time. Train (Coast Starlight) LA to Seattle and then a rental car. In Sequim, Lonny's is a good place to eat. Don't know if they are open for Christmas Dinner...we're looking for a place as well, PT, PA or Sequim. so long as the sea isn't too rough the MV Coho trip to Victoria for the day is worthwhile if you've never been to Victoria,harbor area at the holidays is beautiful. I'm looking forward to a nice storm or two while I sit next to the fireplace with a glass of wine and watch the wind and water. Staying at Collette's B&B, pricey but worth it.

BTilke

Wintertraveler, have a wonderful Christmas on the OP. I'm jealous!! Don't know what restaurants will be open or what your preferences are...most will probably be closed. You will find many things to do...just keep checking the www.ptguide.com or www.ptleader.com for ideas.
We are still hoping to move back to PT in a few years, but in the beginning of 2002 we are moving from Belgium to Switzerland...

Kay

Youre plan to stay in PT makes sense. Victoria is REALLY worth the trip .There is a beautiful motel right on the water in Port Angeles (Red Lion-may have changed owners) next to ferry terminal. They will let you leave your car in their parking lot (if you wanted to stay overnight in Victoria)You can go to Victoria as walk-on.
It is a great walking city--plus the exchange rate is good now. Usually
I encourage people to go to Buchart Gardens (lots of tour buses go there from downtown) but being winter not sure if anything blooming--however, I heard that they decorate the whole garden for Christmas. I am sure they have a web site....You will really like Lake Quinalt -
Also Hurricane Ridge above Port Angeles has a phone info line to check status of --fog, rain, snow
How I envy you ....but in a good way.
About anyplace you stay in the areas you describe will be wonderful.

wintertraveler

Part 1- Port Townsend Olympic Peninsula Report

Just got back from a lovely week in the Olympic Peninsula area of Port Townsend and thought I’d post a trip report.

We lucked out on nearly perfect winter weather. Clear blue skies day and night, cold but not miserable weather, and a schedule that wasn’t too hectic to enjoy. We flew into Seattle then immediately headed to the Bainbridge Ferry and hopped over to Bainbridge Island for lunch at the Harbor Public House which I highly recommend for fish and chips, chowder as well as local brews. We then continued our drive up to Port Townsend (about an hour from Bainbridge).

Our home base was the Morgan Hill Guest Cottage in upper Port Townsend – a lovely place overlooking the Strait of San Juan de Fuca, the mountains and the harbor. Every morning the sun began glowing in the horizon, then lit up the tops of the snowcapped mountains in wonderful peach and pink hues. It was amazing. We were also entertained briefly each morning by the neighbor’s 4 golden labs who were so happy to see us. The cottage had skylights so we could star gaze every night – with those unusual clear skies we had it was great.

Our first full day we spent getting to know the Port Townsend area. We saw a pair of bald eagles land just above our cottage while we had our first cup of coffee on the porch of the cottage.. Then we headed into town for breakfast at the Day Star Cafe. Hearty and quality food there at reasonable prices. We hiked around town and the harbor area, then drove up to Fort Worden (where Officer and a Gentlemen were filmed). There’s a lighthouse at the tip of the park and it’s a beach like area along the water with lots of trees washed ashore and cool rocks (we brought many home, and thanks to a local we also got several very unique polished stones as well). We worked up an appetite hiking.

We headed back into the harbor area for lunch at the Landfall restaurant which became a favorite casual place for us. You can watch sea otters catch their meal just out front of the restaurant in the mornings. We hiked a lot more in town, did some shopping, etc. Pretty much wore ourselves out to where we decided to just buy some dinner goods to take home to the cottage with a bottle of wine. The sun sets very early in winter, around 3 pm so it’s hard to stay up late.

Next day, well, kind of more of the same – relaxing, hiking, we caught a movie at the wonderfully restored Rose Theatre in town. We had dinner at the Wild Coho in uptown Port Townsend – highly recommended too.

Christmas day we drove down the coast and over to the Pacific Ocean side to Ruby Beach and Kaloloch Beach areas. Ruby beach was especially spectacular with only a couple other people anywhere in site. We hiked for an hour or so, collected more rocks – all of which are very flat round from the pounding of the ocean waves. The big rocks here called “sea stacks” make it an especially pretty place. This is all a very remote part of the state. You won’t see a roadside fast food joint.

We were headed down to the Lake Quinault Lodge to stay the night and hike in the rain forest. The rain forest was magical mystical and very primitive, almost prehistoric feeling. This was very enjoyable to see. The lodge was comfortable and cozy, but not fancy. Dinner at the lodge was very good, as was breakfast.

wintertraveler

Part 2- Port Townsend Olympic Peninsula Report

Next day we headed back to Port Townsend, ready for more R&R. The drive was about 3 hours so by the time we made it “home” we were fairly worn out.

Last day in Port Townsend we took the ferry over to Whidbey Island. Spent the day touring the central and southern parts and enjoyed a great meal at Café Langley in the town of Langley. Rolling farmland reaching down to rocky, cliff like edges to the water make this area very pleasant and scenic. When we got back to town we had dinner at Khu Larb Thai and it was excellent food as a few people had said here on fodors. I’d highly recommend it, but they were busy and kind of “in the weeds” as far as wait staff goes. We didn’t mind, but some people did.

Next day we planned to drive to Seattle to meet some friends we hadn’t seen in years. They drove up from Portland. We stopped again at the Harbor Public House for lunch on Bainbridge Island (couldn’t help ourselves). Then we walked around Winslow (the town on Bainbridge where the ferry is located), shopped a little and killed some time. In Seattle w all stayed at the Inn at Queen Ann, which was recommended on fodors highly, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Very noisy rooms. None of us got much sleep. It was affordable and the neighborhood interesting at least.

The trip was highly enjoyable and aside from one note, that the Paper Mill on the edge of Port Townsend can sometimes blow a not so pleasant breeze into town – we lucked out big time as the only day this happened was the day we were headed to Lake Quinault for the night – it could make a big difference in your overall experience however.

Also, I would like to add that Port Angeles does not look like a good place to stay at all for “homebase” to the Olympic National Park. It looked like a small refinery town almost with the black smoke coming from the plants on the water. Yuk. We drove through on our way and were kind of taken back since it is kind of “known” as a place to stay for those visiting the park.

I don’t want to end on bad notes, but just wanted to give the good and the bad for potential visitors to the area.

The best to me? The mystical feeling of the rain forest, Port Townsend’s charm, character and restaurants, Whidbey Islands’ rural serene feeling, and Bainbridge Island’s pub for lunch ;-). We will return during summer some time.