14 Best Restaurants in Side Trips from Rio, Brazil
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The food here is nothing if not eclectic. Expect to find sushi bars, Italian restaurants, and German biergartens sitting alongside restaurants selling typical Brazilian cuisine. Coastal towns serve a large selection of fresh seafood, and most have a local specialty that's worth trying. Beachfront restaurants, especially the ubiquitous baracas (kiosks), can be a pleasant surprise and most will bring food and drink right up to your chosen spot on the sands.
Paraty and Búzios have excellent restaurants serving international cuisine. During high season they fill up beginning at 10 pm and may not close until after sunrise. Restaurants in Petrópolis and Teresópolis serve European cuisine and comida mineira, the hearty, meaty fare from Minas Gerais. Generally, dinner starts at seven and restaurants close around midnight.
To be on the safe side, don't buy seafood from venders strolling along the beach. Be especially careful about the oysters in Búzios and Cabo Frio, which may not be as fresh as the vendor claims.
Cigalon
Often cited as one of the best restaurants in Búzios, French-inspired Cigalon is an elegant establishment with a veranda overlooking the beach. Though the waiters are bow-tied and the tables covered with crisp linens and lighted by flickering candles, the place still has an unpretentious feel.
Rocka Beach Lounge & Restaurant
Overlooking beautiful Praia Brava, relaxed but sophisticated Rocka is one of Búzios's gastronomic highlights as it focuses on superbly fresh, locally sourced seafood that's combined with seasonal fruit, vegetables, and herbs to wonderful effect. A favorite with surfers, come well before lunch so you can spend the day lounging on sun beds or arrive just before sunset when locals stop by for cocktails.
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Trutas do Rocio
It's off the beaten track—ask a local for directions—and only open on weekends, but this rustic, riverside restaurant is really something special. "Trutas" means trout and that's what you'll find on the menu—trout, trout, and more trout served fresh from the river in many imaginative ways: as appetizers mashed into a pâté or baked in cassava-dough pastry, and as entrées grilled or cooked with a choice of almond, mustard, or orange sauce. The restaurant seats only 22, so reservations are a must. On sunny afternoons, the food is served alfresco.
Banana da Terra
Seafood is always excellent at this long-standing favorite on Paraty's dining scene, and it's a great place to try giant shrimp when they are in season. The bustling restaurant—usually packed with tourists—is in an elegant colonial house decorated with cachaça labels (the caipirinhas here are another strong suit) and 19th-century pictures of the city. The name of the place comes from another of its specialties: banana da terra (plantain), which is incorporated into many dishes, among them grilled fish with garlic butter, herbs, plantains, and rice.
Belli Belli Gastrobar
Chez Michou
A pancake house might seem an unlikely meeting point for partiers, but this Belgian-owned crêperie is indeed the hangout of choice for many hip young things in Búzios. Locals and tourists alike flock to the street-side tables after dark to soak up the scene and listen to live DJ sets while tucking into their choice of over 50 savory and sweet fillings. By day it's a quieter affair and popular with families.
Churrascaria Majórica
Lua e Mar
Expect fresh, well-prepared seafood and weekly live music during high season at this longtime favorite, which is often cited as the best restaurant in the village of Abraão. Stroll straight from the beach still wearing your Havaianas to try Dona Cidinha's specialty, fish with half-ripe bananas, or the famous moqueca , which many islanders claim is the best in Rio de Janeiro State.
Mistico
O Pescador
Inside the pousada of the same name, this restaurant serves local seafood prepared using Italian cooking techniques. After dark, you can dine alfresco on the beach by candlelight, or just pop in for a cocktail and nibbles from the bar.
Pizza na Praça
On the flagstones of Ilha Grande's main square, this simple restaurant serves up more than four dozen types of pies, from simple margheritas to exotic seafood combinations or dessert pies; salads and other dishes are available at lunchtime. This is a great spot for evening meals on Friday and Saturday nights, when live bands play in the square.
Refúgio
Near the water in a quiet part of town, this seafood restaurant is a great place for a romantic dinner, with candlelit tables and a good wine list. On chilly days, heat lamps warm the café tables out front, while evenings are enlivened by music from local musicians (which comes with an additional cover charge).