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In the capital, as in the rest of the grand duchy, workers drop everything at noon and, jamming the streets, rush home to a leisurely hot meal, then rush back at 2, jamming the streets once more. Most restaurants offer a relatively speedy plat du jour for those who don't commute twice a day. Evening meals at home tend to be a cold supper of ham, sausage, dark bread, and cheese; the occasional meal out is usually a celebration, enjoyed at length. The Sunday noon meal is the most important of the week. Some Luxembourg restaurants are closed on Sunday and/or Monday, but country restaurants—some of the best and most enjoyable in the country, and never very far away—are booked with three-generation families, who spend the afternoon eating and drinking, then take a stroll, after which the men retire to the local pub.
Luxembourg City has a wide variety of restaurants, offering everything from top French cuisine to simple local specialties; you'll also find an assortment of international choices, a plethora of pizzerias, and for some reason, lots of Chinese restaurants. It's easy to find a fixed-price menu or plat du jour by wandering from restaurant to restaurant, but beware: the best places are often booked up at weekday lunchtime; if you know where you want to eat, phone ahead. Dress is casual unless otherwise indicated.
Across the street from the train station, this lively establishment with vinyl booths draws a loyal local crowd. Many come for vast portions of mussels in a rich wine-and-garlic broth (available September through March), accompanied by frites and a bottle of sharp, cold, inexpensive Auxerrois or Rivaner.
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