Ateliers Berthier
The outlying atelier for the more illustrious Théâtre de l'Odéon is in the 17e, a bit off the beaten path; the upside is that on Sunday it often has a 3 pm matinee in addition to the evening show (usually at 8 pm).
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The performing arts scene in Paris runs the gamut from highbrow to lowbrow, cheap (or even free) to break-the-bank expensive. Venues are indoors and outdoors, opulent or spartan, and dress codes vary accordingly. Regardless of the performance you choose, it's probably unlike anything you've seen before. Parisians have an audacious sense of artistic adventure and a stunning eye for scene and staging. An added bonus in this city of classic beauty is that many of the venues themselves—from the opulent interiors of the Opéra Garnier and the Opéra Royal de Versailles to the Art Deco splendor of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées—are a feast for the eyes.
One thing that sets Paris apart in the arts world is the active participation of the Ministry of Culture, which sponsors numerous concert halls and theaters, like the Comédie Française, that tend to present less commercial, though artistically captivating, productions. Other venues with broader appeal are known for sold-out shows and decade-long runs.
Most performances are in French, although you can find English theater productions. English-language movies are often presented undubbed, with subtitles. Of course, you don't need to speak the language to enjoy opera, classical music, dance, or the circus.
The outlying atelier for the more illustrious Théâtre de l'Odéon is in the 17e, a bit off the beaten path; the upside is that on Sunday it often has a 3 pm matinee in addition to the evening show (usually at 8 pm).
Rising up from the Seine like a futuristic ocean liner, Le Seine Musicale answers Paris's desire to compete as one of the world's prime music destinations. The structure's two state-of-the-art concert halls, the largest with a seating capacity of 6,000, feature a range of musical performances, from classical to the legends of jazz and rock (Bob Dylan played the inaugural concert). Behind the sleek mirrored facade—whose solar panels generate enough power to dramatically illuminate the building at night—lie a jazz club, three restaurants, art galleries, and outdoor gardens offering panoramic views of Paris. The 28-acre island on the Seine is technically in Boulogne-Billancourt, a suburb of Paris, but is easily reached by métro or bus.
Occupying an abandoned factory, Le Lucernaire wins a standing ovation as far as cultural centers are concerned. With three theaters staging a total of six performances per day, plus three movie screens, a bookstore, photography exhibitions, a lively restaurant-bar, and the equally animated surrounding neighborhood of Vavin, it caters to a local audience of young intellectuals.
Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, this is one of the world's finest and most expensive auditoriums. It can accommodate 2,400 music lovers, and the adjustable modular seating means you'll be able to see the stage no matter where you sit. Because the hall is home to the Orchestre de Paris, concerts are mostly classical; however, programming includes guest artists and, on weekends, pop, jazz, and world music performances appeal to patrons with more diverse tastes—and smaller budgets. Part of the same complex (formerly known as the Cité de la Musique), Philharmonie 2 features a 1,000-seat concert hall and a 250-seat amphitheater and presents an eclectic range of concerts (some of which are free) in a postmodern setting. The Philharmonie de Paris is a 45-minute métro ride from downtown. If you're driving, there are 600 parking spaces available.
In the heart of the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, this complex includes three theaters, an international student residence community, a casual daytime restaurant, and a park. Conceived in the 1930s with a visionary concept of pacifism and international peace, the Cité U campus is home to thousands of students and researchers from around the world. The theaters host young, avant-garde dance, music, theater, and circus performances, as well as debates, meetings, and workshops. Forty percent of the productions are by foreign artists.
This was the scene of 1913's infamous Battle of the Rite of Spring, when police had to be called in after the audience ripped up seats in outrage at Stravinsky's Le Sacre du Printemps score and Nijinsky's choreography. Today Théâtre des Champs-Élysées is elegantly restored and worthy of a visit if only for the architecture. (It's one of Paris's most striking examples of Art Deco.) The theater also hosts first-rate opera and dance performances, along with orchestral, chamber, and Sunday morning concerts.