The French Riviera

Timing is everything here. July and August bring roasting heat, skyrocketing prices, and crowds as all of France goes on vacation. Avoid traveling around Bastille Day (July 14) and mid-August holidays when roads are jammed. Consider June or September, when the weather is warm, the crowds thin, and the Mediterranean is still oh-so-inviting. Shoulder seasons in March-April and October offer lower prices, quieter villages, sunny days but may also see rain or chilly mistral winds. By November, some beach resorts close until spring, but there is plenty to love here in winter. Including snow sports. Auron, Isola, and other Alpes-Maritimes ski resorts are a two-hour drive from Nice (or take the snow bus—bus 100% neige—for €14 roundtrip).

First-timers may be surprised that many Riviera beaches are narrow, pebbly, and often backed by busy roads. Nice’s famous Promenade des Anglais, for instance, is lined with galets, so sturdy sandals are a must. For sandy escapes, head to Pampelonne Beach near St-Tropez, La Garoupe on Cap d’Antibes, or Cannes. Private beach clubs provide sun loungers and parasols for a fee, while public beaches require you to bring your own gear. Arrive early in summer to claim a spot, and check for jellyfish warnings—some beaches have nets to catch those pesky méduses.

The Riviera’s SNCF TER trains are an easy, affordable way to explore coastal towns like Nice, Cannes, Antibes, and the Principality of Monaco, offering spectacular views along the way. Strikes? A real possibility, so have a backup plan. For inland villages like Saint-Paul-de-Vence or Grasse, renting a compact car is often the best option. Be mindful of narrow streets and motorway toll fees, which can quickly add up. Summer traffic can be intense, so skip driving during peak times. St-Tropez is not directly accessible by train. Your options are car, train then bus, or ferry from Nice (2.5 hours), Cannes (1 hour 15), St-Raphaël (1 hour), or St-Maxime (20 minutes). 

To get a true feel for Provençal life, find a shady square and watch locals play pétanque—a quiet but social game of French bowls, often enjoyed with a rosé or pastis. Explore bustling markets like Cours Saleya in Nice or Marché Provençal in Antibes for lavender soaps, socca (delicious chickpea crêpe/flatbread), artisanal goods, and picnic essentials. While the Riviera has a reputation for glitz, there are ways to save. Look for free museum entries on the first Sunday of the month, discounted meals on the Too Good To Go app, and happy hour deals for drinks with a view. City passes like the French Riviera Pass can save time and money on attractions and transport.

The Riviera calls for a mix of style and practicality. Bring breezy outfits for beachside lunches and something sharp for evenings in Cannes or Monaco—casual chic reigns supreme. Comfortable walking shoes are essential for exploring cobblestoned streets or coastal paths. Consider water shoes, to help you get in and out of the sea at stony beaches. Don’t forget the hat, sunscreen, refillable water bottle (you can fill up at the many eau potable fountains), and foldable bag for those impromptu market hauls.