12 Best Hotels in The Atlantic Lowlands, Guatemala

This string of waterfront bungalows can best be described as Guatemala's most luxurious way of roughing it. Each is furnished with bright highland furniture and a pair of beds draped with mosquito nets. Don't be scared off by the shared baths; they're clean and comfortable, and the showers have hot water. The main building houses a restaurant serving excellent meals on a pretty patio overlooking the water. The dinner menu changes daily, but always includes lobster and other favorites. Dinner, at 7 sharp, is by candlelight.

On the north bank of the Río Dulce, this lovely resort takes advantage of its location with a restaurant built right over the water. The specialties are grilled steaks and fresh fish, including the delicious robalo plucked from the river. A string of spacious bungalows is cooled by river breezes, the nicest feature of which are the porches, perfect for watching boats. The staff can arrange boat trips along the river and to Livingston.

Livingston's finest hotel, the Villa Caribe has some great views of the Caribbean from its hilltop perch. The extensive grounds overflow with foliage. Spacious rooms, in a thatch-roof building, all have private balconies and ocean views. Palm trees surround the large pool, where you can relax in one of the lounge chairs or order a drink at the bar. The restaurant serves seafood dishes, such as coconut shrimp and robalo, but is almost always empty. The staff can arrange trips up the Río Dulce and to spots around the Bahía de Amatique.

Sprawling resorts like this waterfront complex are the newest trend in Guatemala. The beautiful natural surroundings are somewhat diminished by all the effort to make things luxurious. The impressive pool, complete with a replica of a Spanish galleon that shoots water from its cannons, has slides for children and an island bar for adults. Few of the sunny suites have views of the ocean, but they are equipped with everything you would find in a well-furnished apartment, including washers and dryers.

A rustic bed-and-breakfast run by a friendly Argentine family, Finca Tatín is far off the beaten path, 20 minutes by boat from Livingston. The inn, which doubles as a Spanish school, rents canoes, which are a great way to see the river without the roar of a motor. A generator supplies the electricity here from 6 to 11 pm; the rest of the day, solar panels take their turn.

Set amid a tropical garden, this string of thatch bungalows faces the expansive waters of the Bahía de Amatique. The grounds are adjacent to a forest-draped hill with a small waterfall. You can relax by the pool or on the private beach, or arrange a cruise on the bay and up the Río Dulce. Boats pick up guests at the dock in Puerto Barrios; phone ahead to let them know you're coming.

There is only very basic accommodation here, but people come for the eco-activities, not the rooms. Built out over the water, this jungle lodge—the name is pronounced Tee-HAHSH—offers a number of types of accommodations, from cozy birdhouse-shaped cabanas to large two-story bungalows with kitchens and dining rooms. A series of swinging bridges over a mangrove swamp lets you stroll to the adjacent nature reserve. Also nearby is a plantation where you can learn how rubber is extracted from trees. The lodge is also known for its restaurant, which serves a variety of Italian dishes, including homemade pesto. There are also plenty of vegetarian dishes.

Río Dulce's largest resort is also one of its more luxurious properties. Guests flock for the weekend from Guatemala City, leaving the hotel relatively quiet during the week. It's set amid lovely forested grounds near the San Felipe fortress. Rooms are all suites, with small kitchens, living rooms, and bedrooms containing one or two queen-size beds. Second-floor suites have private decks with individual hot tubs. The Banana Palms is a good option for families, since it has a separate children's pool, and games such as foosball, Ping-Pong, and billiards.

Run by a cordial Livingston family, Hotel Garífuna puts you in the heart of a lively neighborhood. The rooms in this two-story building open onto a porch overlooking the street or a tree-filled backyard. Expect very basic accommodation here, but the friendly owners make up for the fact that you have just a bed or two, a table, and a fan.

This hotel has clean, simply furnished rooms, the best four of which overlook the lake. A third-floor balcony with wooden lounge chairs is the best place in town for an afternoon siesta. Although the restaurant always looks closed, it's open for business. Just call out "¡Buenas tardes!" until one of the workers appears. The Italian dishes are authentic and filling.

This hotel was once the general store that gave El Estor its name. Now run by the loquacious Oscar Paz, it has clean, cozy rooms. The wide wooden balcony is a great place to observe the town's waterfront. Before checking in, make sure the town hall next door has no plans for a dance; otherwise the thumping music will keep you awake until 4 am.

An in-town lodging on the Fronteras side of the bridge offers very simple rooms with a bed, television, chair, and little else. It's a good value if you don't need many amenities. Reception is on the first floor; all rooms are on the second, as well as a small communal balcony. The hotel is undergoing expansion at this writing, with the addition of rooms expected to be complete in late 2010.