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La Paz restaurants are becoming increasingly cosmopolitan, and more sophisticated dining is on the rise. Alongside a vast array of establishments serving traditional Bolivian fare, there are well-established sushi restaurants, Argentine grill houses, upmarket Swiss/Bolivian restaurants, and a few excellent enclaves of flavor from Spain, Italy, and Germany. French cuisine is still seen as the height of sophistication, but the better offerings along that line have shrugged off the overly formal side of the experience and focus on simply serving superb food. Young and well-traveled Bolivians are breathing new life into the food scene—you can now find Vietnamese food, a classy and fun wine bar, a café with internationally qualified baristas brewing up the best of Bolivian coffee, and even a world-class vegan restaurant serving food mostly grown in its own small urban garden. The area around Plaza del Estudiante and the residential neighborhood of Sopocachi have a good selection of cheap eating. For a more international and expensive experience, head down to the southern area of the city, where much of the most interesting and modern dining options are to be found catering to the city’s wealthier crowd. Wherever you go, look out for the almuerzo if you’re after a good-value set lunch.
From its location on the penthouse floor of the Radisson Plaza Hotel, this upscale, formal restaurant gives diners spectacular views of the city, best appreciated at sunset. The Bolivian and international dishes on the menu are excellent, though the presentation may seem overly elaborate.
Offering reliably delicious and slightly refined Bolivian cuisine, El Vagon del Sur is worth the trip to Zona Sur if you’re tempted by local dishes but not quite ready to delve into the market or the little side-street restaurants. Excellent service in a beautiful old house makes the extra expense worthwhile. Frequented by wealthy locals and a growing number of tourists, it fills up at both lunch and dinner, and reservations are particularly recommended on weekends. The best-loved dishes are the pique mixto with stewed beef, chorizo, and tongue, or the picante mixto, a taste of four traditional dishes from around the country. It's best to come here after your appetite becomes used to the altitude.
The one thing you cannot leave without trying—and quite possibly falling in love with—is a hot, juicy salteña (the Bolivian version of an empanada). You will get at least a little on your shirt; everyone does the first time. Both Sucre and Potosí claim to have the best, but many will point to this little shop, which has four locations around the city. The decor really doesn't matter, and the service is efficient and friendly. The pastry shell is just the right amount of sweet, and the filling is satisfyingly juicy. Don't hesitate to try all the options: meat, poultrey, and vegetarian. Repeat daily.
Located on the second floor of Hotel Rosario, this cozy restaurant means "a place to gather and barter local products." In this case, the bartering means reasonable prices for high-quality cuisine, including almond-crusted trout with orange rice or grilled llama served with a creamy mustard sauce. The presentations are beautiful, if a touch late '90s, and the portions are just right. Romantics might want to sit in the candlelit brick room at the back. Bring your camera (and sweet tooth) for the chocolate mousse with sorbet—it's truly a work of art.
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