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Tokyo is undoubtedly one of the most exciting dining cities in the world. Seasonal ingredients reign supreme here, and there's an emphasis on freshness—not surprising given raw seafood is the cornerstone of sushi. And though Tokyoites still stubbornly resist foreign concepts in many fields, the locals have embraced outside culinary styles with gusto.
While newer restaurants targeting younger diners strive for authenticity in everything from New York–style bagels to Neapolitan pizza, it is still not uncommon to see menus serving East-meets-West concoctions such as spaghetti topped with cod roe and shredded seaweed. That said, the city’s best French and Italian establishments can hold their own on a global scale. Naturally, there's also excellent Japanese cuisine available throughout the city, ranging from the traditional to nouveau, which can be shockingly expensive.
That is not to imply that every meal in the city will drain your finances—the current rage is all about "B-kyu gurume" (B-class gourmet), restaurants that fill the gap between nationwide chains and fine cuisine, serving tasty Japanese and Asian food without the extra frills of tablecloths and lacquerware. All department stores and most skyscrapers have at least one floor of restaurants that are accessible, affordable, and reputable.
Asakusa is known for its tempura, and Tsukiji prides itself on its fresh sashimi, which is available in excellent quality throughout the city. Ramen is a passion for many locals, who travel across town or stand in line for an hour in order to sit at the counter of a shop rumored to have the perfect balance of noodles and broth. Even the neighborhood convenience stores will offer colorful salads, sandwiches, and a selection of beer and sake. There have been good and affordable Indian and Chinese restaurants in the city for decades. As a result of increased travel by the Japanese to more exotic locations, Thai, Vietnamese, and Turkish restaurants have popped up around the city. When in doubt, note that Tokyo's top-rated international hotels also have some of the city's best places to eat and drink.
Also known as "Andy's," this izakaya is directly under the tracks of the Yamanote Line, making the wooden interior shudder each time a train passes overhead. It's a favorite with local and foreign journalists and is actually run by a Brit, Andy, who travels to the seafood market every morning to buy ingredients for not-to-miss dishes such as sashimi or buttered scallops. It fills up very quickly, so it's best to call at least a day in advance to make a reservation.
Founded by American Bryan Baird in 2000, Baird Brewing has become one of the leaders in Japan's booming craft-beer movement, with a range of creative seasonal beers as well as such year-round brews as the hop-heavy Suruga Bay IPA. The Taproom combines Baird's excellent lineup of microbrews with Japanese izakaya (pub) fare like yakitori (grilled chicken skewers). There are other branches in Naka Meguro, Takadanobaba, Kichijoji, and Yokohama.
With an outdoor patio dining area and bar—the perfect place to relax with a nightcap—Cicada has a resortlike atmosphere that makes it feel a world away from Aoyama's busy shopping streets. Craft beers and wine from the extensive list complement dishes that range from Spanish tapas and Middle Eastern mezze to hearty grilled meats and seafood. Though spacious, this popular restaurant fills up quickly, so dinner reservations are recommended.
One of the culinary specialties of the Narita area is freshwater eel (unagi)—indeed, on the short stroll along Naritasan Omotesando, you'll see a number of places offering it. This one, close to Naritsan Shinsho-ji, is known for its chargrilled eel, slathered in a savory soy-based sauce and served over rice. Tradition says the dish is good at fighting fatigue, hence, it's particularly popular during the humid summer months. If you are a truly adventurous eater, try the eel-liver soup or the deep-fried eel bones. Takeout orders are an option.
Smoky, noisy, and cluttered, Ganchan is exactly what the Japanese expect of their yakitori joints—restaurants that specialize in bits of charcoal-broiled chicken and vegetables. The counter here seats barely 15 (you have to squeeze to get to the chairs in back), and festival masks, paper kites, lanterns, and greeting cards from celebrity patrons adorn the walls. The cooks yell at each other, fan the grill, and serve up enormous schooners of beer. Try the tsukune (balls of minced chicken) and the fresh asparagus wrapped in bacon. Otherwise opt for a mixed eight-skewer set that comes with several small side dishes.
To enjoy Japanese haute cuisine served in a relaxed atmosphere look to this kappo-ryori restaurant, where diners traditionally eat at counters while the chef works in front of them (though Yukari also offers tables and private rooms). Third-generation chef—and 2002 Iron Chef champion—Kimio Nonaga displays his artistry in dishes that showcase the freshness and quality of the seasonal ingredients. To witness him at work, and get the full kappo dining experience, request a counter seat when making reservations. Nihonbashi Yukari also offers a lunch setting for a fraction of the price of dinner, which is unusual for this kind of restaurant. Also unusual is that kids are welcome, too.
Old, funky, and more than a little cramped, Robata is a bit daunting at first, but fourth-generation chef-owner Takao Inoue holds forth here with an inspired version of Japanese home cooking. He's also a connoisseur of pottery and serves his food on pieces acquired at famous kilns all over the country. A meal at Robata—like the pottery—is simple to the eye but subtle and fulfilling. Typical dishes include steamed fish with vegetables, stews of beef or pork, and seafood salads. If you don't feel like navigating the Japanese menu, opt for the ¥4,950 course.
The style here is robatayaki, a dining experience that segues into pure theater. Seated on cushions behind a grill, traditionally attired cooks prepare fresh vegetables, seafood, and skewers of beef and chicken. You point to what you want; your server shouts out the order; and a cook in back plucks up your selection, readies it, and hands it across on an 8-foot wooden paddle. Inakaya is open from 5 pm and fills up fast after 7.
The exclusive specialty here is tofu, prepared in more ways than you can imagine—boiled, steamed, stir-fried with minced crabmeat, served in a custard, or wrapped in thin layers around a delicate whitefish paste. Tofu is touted as the perfect high-protein, low-calorie health food; at Ume no Hana it's raised to the elegance of haute cuisine. Remove your shoes when you step up to the lovely central room. Latticed wood screens separate the tables, and private dining rooms with tatami seating are available. Prix-fixe meals, from ¥5,000 to ¥8,000 at dinner, include a complimentary aperitif, while lunchtime is very budget-friendly considering the quality (courses from ¥2,100). Ume no Hana shops in Ueno and Ginza are also worth visiting.
Ramen is the quintessential Japanese fast food—thick noodles in a bowl of savory broth topped with sliced grilled chashu (pork loin)—and each neighborhood in Tokyo has its go-to ramen restaurant. In Ebisu, near Shibuya, the hands-down favorite is this branch of Afuri, where you choose and pay for your ramen at a machine, find a seat, and hand over your payment ticket to the cooks, who prepare your ramen then and there. There's limited seating, and the a line of customers might extend down the street, but the ramen is worth it. The signature ramen here is yuzu shio (citron and salt), but there are other options, including a vegan version.
Just south of the Shinjuku station, on a basement food level of Shinjuku's Lumine I department store, this branch of a ramen-house chain serves its noodles with a broth that has hints of citrus, turning what can be a heavy dish into something more refreshing (and even free of meat if you like).
An outpost of a New Zealand roastery, this small, friendly café serves excellent espressos, flat whites, and cappuccinos, plus simple snacks like cookies and toasted sandwiches. It occupies a repurposed wooden warehouse with indoor seating, but, if the weather is nice, grab a to-go drink and a slice of banana cake and walk a few minutes east to Kiba Park, a lovely green spot to while away an hour.
Situated along the monzen-machi approach to Jindai-ji temple, this traditional-looking spot has its own spin on soba dishes. Here, you don’t get soba noodles, but rather "soba bread"—basically, a steamed bun made with buckwheat (soba) flour, sugar, and rice flour that comes with your choice of fillings consisting of sweet red bean paste (anko), mustard greens (takana), daikon radish, or the very nontraditional keema, or mince-meat curry.
Located near the shops of Kappabashi-dori, the counter-only Aun specializes in tantanmen (tantan ramen), a Japanese take on spicy Sichuan dandan noodles. The lip-numbing dish, which routinely score high marks from reviewers, can be ordered here with spice levels that range from gentle to extreme.
Carnivores flock here for the all-you-can-eat Brazilian grilled chicken and barbecued beef, which the efficient waiters will bring to your table until you tell them to stop, so be sure to pace yourself at the impressive, self-serve salad bar. With drinks (including, perhaps, Brazilian cocktails), dinner can easily run ¥10,000 per person, but the weekday lunch buffet offers largely the same selection at a fraction of the price. Hardwood floors, lithographs of bull motifs, warm lighting, and salmon-colored tablecloths provide the backdrop. Look for the entrance just off Omotesando-dori on the Harajuku 2-chome shopping street (on the north side of Omotesando-dori), about 50 yards down on the left. There are also branches of Barbacoa near Tokyo Station and in Roppongi, Shibuya, and Shinjuku.
Look for the cute neon bear sign to find what is possibly the neighborhood's best coffee shop, since, aside from some branded merchandise, coffee is the only thing that's sold. It's a tiny, low-key place with a simple design, including old wooden benches that make the place feel as if it's both in the now and from long ago.
Many long lines outside Shibuya's eateries are more about trendiness than quality, but Beard Papa makes a wide variety of genuinely good cream puffs. Pick up a single or a six-pack of freshly made pastries. It's in the underground Shibuchika shopping arcade, which is located roughly beneath the main crossing; head down some stairs, and follow the aromas of vanilla and butter.
Kushiyaki (grilled skewers), Vietnamese-style, are on the menu at the bustling restaurant that is the Tokyo branch of a popular barbecue chain in Hanoi. The skewers here include chicken thigh on or off the bone, chicken feet, and gizzards, as well as seafood, vegetables such as okra, and sweet treats like banana. The owners also run another no-frills Vietnamese restaurant called Chopsticks, serving excellent pho noodles, on the same block in Koenji’s north side.
Just across the street from Tokyo Dome, this slightly upscale izakaya serves hearty dishes in a comfortable, heavy-timbered basement space. With a menu that includes some of Japanese cuisine's more accessible dishes—curries, fried pork cutlets (katsudon) or seafood, hamburgers, steaks—it's a good choice for kids and other less-adventurous eaters. Your waiters might insist that you wear the provided paper bib for the juicier dishes—take their advice, and your shirt will thank you.
Inside Neal's Yard Green Square, this laid-back café has all-natural wooden interiors and a menu of dishes that will make the health-conscious happy. While shopping along Omotesando, it's a great place to stop for a snack or a lunch that might include a Japanese teishoku set, vegetable curry, tofu lemon cake, or other vegan fare.
This Australian-style café near Coredo Muromachi is a casual hangout serving potent espressos and milky flat whites. For a quick bite to eat, try a meat pie, or stop by for the money-saving breakfast, which features a coffee and toasted sandwich for ¥650.
In business since 1948, Café de l'Ambre is a legendary haunt for Tokyo's coffee aficionados. The retro decor provides a snapshot of an older Tokyo, and the caffeine-fix options include a dozen or so single-origin beans, including some that have been aged for years.
Associated with the funky clothing shop just around the corner and part of an international chain, this bright, open café serves high-quality coffee, cakes, snacks, and gelato. It also has some Kitsuné-branded goods on hand.
Stop by and watch specialty donuts being fried before your eyes. They come in many flavors, and although they're on the "healthy" side, don't worry—they're still donuts. The giant cone outside reminds you that you can also get soft-serve ice cream, and there's coffee, too. Sit outside on the bench and watch the world go by.
Stop off near the end of the Yurikamome Line and have dinner along the riverbank before heading back to your hotel. The live DJ (on weekends), order-at-bar service, and strong cocktails create a lively ambience, and the location along a popular walking path makes for excellent people- and dog-watching. There are often festivals here, so make sure to check the event schedule.
This lively gastro-pub in the Coredo Muromachi complex specializes in local craft beers, with the 20 or so brews on tap covering a range of styles. Though you can stop by for just a pint, there's also a food menu featuring Japanese izakaya staples and lunchtime teishoku meals that are great value for money.
Koenji has many culinary bases covered, and with this izakaya it delivers Okinawan food and drink as authentic as any you’d find in Japan’s southern islands (you can thank the Okinawan owner for that). Dachibin, whose name refers to a portable ceramic container for sake, specializes in regional classics such as goya champuru (a stir-fry of bitter gourd, spam, and tofu) and soki soba (noodles with pork sparerib meat), which can be chased down with a pint of Orion Beer or a shot of Okinawan firewater awamori. Like many Koenji venues, it opens late and stays open later, from 5 pm to 5 am.
Daikokuya, in the center of Asakusa's historic district, is a point of pilgrimage for both locals and tourists. The specialty is shrimp tempura, and the menu choices are simple—tendon (tempura shrimp served over rice) or the tempura meal with rice, pickled vegetables, and miso soup. If you're famished, you can add additional pieces of tempura or side dishes such as sashimi for an additional fee. When the line outside is too long, head to the shop's annex (bekkan) just around the corner.
This basement-level ice cream store has become a Nakano Broadway institution for its soft-serve ice cream, which comes in flavors that vary from simple vanilla to matcha (powdered green tea), horse chestnut, and ramune (a popular citrus soda flavor). The specialty is the eight-layered, 20-cm (8-inch) tokudai sofuto, or extra-large soft serve, though small cups and cones are also on the menu. Next door, is the Daily Chiko udon (thick wheat noodles) shop.
Although a classic bowl of ramen is topped with slices of pork, here it's often topped with grilled vegetables. Other specialties to try include the tsukemen, with the noodles served in one bowl and the broth into which you dip them served in another, or the chilled noodles topped with vegetables and ham in a sesame dressing. The restaurant also serves gyoza and other goodies. Despite the focus on veggies, note that the soups and sauces are not meat-free.
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