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Taxis from the Zona to El Centro cost around MX$270 each way. A more affordable alternative is to catch a north-bound public bus to the Kukulcán–Bonampak intersection, which marks the beginning of El Centro (MX$10). From here, you can explore by foot or flag down a taxi to your area of choice. If you want to get a taste of downtown culture, start at the colorful Mercado Veintiocho or Parque de las Palapas. To return to the Zona Hotelera, take a taxi to the Chedraui on Avenida Tulum and then catch a bus that passes every few minutes toward the Zona. (Don't be alarmed if a man in a clown suit roams the aisle in search of tips: at night the buses come alive with all sorts of amateur performers, from accordionists to jugglers, hoping to earn a few pesos.)
South of Punta Cancún, Boulevard Kukulcán becomes a busy road and is difficult for pedestrians to cross. It's also punctuated by steeply inclined driveways that turn into the hotels, most of which are set back at least 100 yards from the road. The lagoon side of the boulevard consists of scrubby stretches of land alternating with marinas, shopping centers, and restaurants. Because there are so few sights, there are no orientation tours of Cancún: just do the local bus circuit to get a feel for your surroundings. Buses run until midnight, and you'll rarely have to wait more than five minutes.
When you first visit El Centro, the downtown layout might not be self-evident. It's not based on a grid but rather on a circular pattern. The whole city is divided into districts called Super Manzanas (abbreviated “Sm” in this book), each with its own central square or park. In general, walks through downtown are somewhat unpleasant, with whizzing cars, corroded pathways, and overgrown weeds. Sidewalks disappear for brief moments, forcing pedestrians to cross grassy inlets and thin strips of land separating four lanes of traffic. Few people seem to know exactly where anything is, even the locals who live in El Centro. When exploring on foot, expect to get lost at least once and enjoy it—you may just stumble on a courtyard café or a lively cantina.
The collection at what is known locally as the Museo Subacuático de Arte (MUSA) consists of more than 400 lifelike statues that create marine-life habitats in three locations: off the shores of Punta Sam, Punta Nizuc, and Manchones Reef near Isla Mujeres. The sculptures at the Manchones site are 26 feet deep and best observed on a scuba dive. The two sites closer to Cancún, at half that depth or less, can easily be viewed on snorkeling or glass-bottom-boat excursions.
Near Ruinas del Rey, where Boulevard Kukulcán curves into a hill, this local favorite is one of the last before Punta Nizuc. Hotels have yet to dominate this small section of coastline that's considered a Blue Flag Beach. ("Yet" is, unfortunately, the operative word here.) Delfines showcases an incredible lookout and the iconic sign with large letters painted in bright colors that spell "Cancún." It's a popular photo op, so you may have to wait in line to get a picture. The sand is darker and more granular here than on other Cancún beaches, and on a clear day you can see at least four shades of blue in the water. Swimming is treacherous unless a green flag is posted, but you'll find plenty of sand and waves. It's one of the few places in Cancún you'll see a surfer, though even during hurricane season, waves seldom hit "epic" status; at best, you might find choppy, inconsistent surf. Amenities: lifeguard; parking (no fee); toilets. Best for: sunrise; surfing.
This 262-foot rotating tower has a bird’s-eye view of Cancún and the bay. The experience—which includes the ascent, a few rotations at the top, and the descent—takes about 10 minutes and is accompanied by Spanish-English narration.
Bike tours, butterfly- and bird-watching adventures, as well as kayaking, diving, and eco-oriented snorkeling trips can be booked through Eco Colors. They also specialize in cultural programs and volunteer opportunities.
There really is a downtown Cancún, although you'll never see it if you confine yourself to your resort in the Zona Hotelera. El Centro's malls and markets offer a glimpse of Mexico's urban lifestyle. Avenida Tulum, the main drag, is marked by a huge sculpture of shells and starfish in the middle of a traffic circle. This iconic Cancún sight, which locals refer to as El Ceviche, is particularly dramatic at night when the lights are turned on. El Centro is also home to many restaurants and bars. (We recommend taking a taxi to and from at night.) You'll also find
The built-up area in the Zona Hotelera near the convention center at the sharply angled bend of Boulevard Kukulcán is not El Centro.
The enthusiastic staff at this small aquarium incorporate concern for the environment into their presentations, and the animals are well looked after. For added fees, you can participate in an aquarium trek, a dolphin presentation, or a swim with the dolphins.
Also known as Whale Beach, this Blue Flag Beach is a raw stretch of sand and crystal water at Km 14.5 between the Hard Rock Hotel and Secrets The Vine. Jet Skiers often zoom through the water, and the strong wind makes the surf rough. The beach is open to the public; parking and beach access are at Calle Ballenas. Food and drinks are available at any of the resorts along this stretch, including the Hard Rock, Secrets The Vine, and Sandos Cancún—but keep in mind these all-inclusives cater only to hotel guests. Amenities: parking (no fee); water sports. Best for: sunrise; walking; windsurfing.
The last "real beach" along the east–west stretch of the Zona Hotelera is near Plaza Caracol and the Xcaret dock. Located at Km 8.5, the whole area has been eaten up by development, in particular the high-rise condominium complex next to the entrance. Playa Caracol (caracol means "snail") is also hindered by the rocks that jut out from the water to mark the beginning of Punta Cancún, where Boulevard Kukulcán turns south. There are several hotels along here and a few sports rental outfits. It's also the launching point for trips to Contoy Island. Closer to the Fiesta Americana Grand Coral Beach hotel, the water is calm because of the jetty that blocks the wind and waves.Amenities: food and drink; water sports. Best for: swimming; windsurfing.
Located at Km 10 on Boulevard Kukulcán, this Blue Flag Beach can be accessed through the beach entrance across the street from Señor Frog's. As at Playa Caracol, development has greatly encroached on the shores here. There are a lot of rocks, but the water is a stunning turquoise; moreover, the beach is close to shopping centers and the party zone, so you'll find plenty of restaurants nearby. The short stretch to the south has gentler waters and fewer rocks. Public changing rooms and limited free parking are also available. The clear, shallow water makes it tempting to walk far out, but be careful—there's a strong current and undertow. Lifeguards are on duty until 5 pm. The closest hotel to Playa Chac Mool is Le Blanc Resort. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (free); toilets. Best for: partiers; sunrise.
Heading down from Punta Cancún onto the long, southerly stretch of the island, Playa Gaviota Azul (meaning Blue Seagull Beach, but also commonly called City Beach or Forum Beach) is the first on the Caribbean's open waters. Closer to Km 9, the waves break up to 6 feet during hurricane season, making it one of the few surfing spots in Cancún; lessons are offered by the 360 Surf School ( www.360surfschoolcancun.com). If you'd rather just relax, ascend a short flight of steps to Mandala Beach Club at Km 9.5, where you can enjoy the full resort experience without booking into a hotel. There is paid parking at Plaza Forum plus minimal street parking. The closest hotels—Krystal Grand Punta Cancún and Aloft—are across the street from the beach. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); toilets; water sports. Best for: partiers; sunrise: surfing; swimming.
Small, placid Lobster Beach has safe waters and gentle waves that make it a popular swimming spot for families and spring breakers alike. On weekends, you'll be lucky if you can find a space on the sand. There's an entrance to the beach at Boulevard Kukulcán's Km 5. A dock juts out in the middle of the water, but swimming areas are marked off with ropes and buoys. Next to the beach is a small building with a restaurant, an ice-cream shop, and an ATM. Amenities: food and drink; toilets. Best for: swimming.
Pearl Beach is the first heading east from El Centro along Boulevard Kukulcán. Located at Km 2.5, between the Cancún mainland and the bridge, this Blue Flag Beach is a relatively small beach on the protected waters of the Bahía de Mujeres, and is popular with locals. There are several restaurants lining the sand, but most of the water-sports activities are only available to those staying at the nearby lodgings like the Imperial las Perlas. There's a small store beside that resort where you can buy sandwiches and drinks if you want to have a beach picnic. Parking is limited.Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (no fee); water sports. Best for: swimming.
At Km 4 on Boulevard Kukulcán, Pretty Beach is where the ocean meets the freshwater of Laguna Nichupté to create the Nichupté Channel. Restaurants and changing rooms are available near the launching dock. Playa Linda is situated between the Barceló Costa Cancún and Sotavento Hotel. There's lots of boat activity along the channel, and the ferry to Isla Mujeres leaves from the adjoining Embarcadero marina, so the area isn't safe for swimming. It is, however, a great place to people-watch, with a 300-foot rotating scenic tower nearby that offers a 360-degree view. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); toilets. Best for: walking.
Accessible via a road next to Kukulcán Plaza, Marlin Beach is a seductive stretch of sand in the heart of the Zona Hotelera at Km 13. Despite its turquoise waters and silky sands, the waves are strong and the currents are dangerous. If this Blue Flag Beach is crowded, you can walk in either direction to find quieter spots. There's also a small tent where you can rent boogie boards, snorkel gear, and motorized sports equipment. Although there are currently no public facilities, you can always walk over to Kukulcán Plaza if you need a restroom and to the nearby Oxxo, Mexico's convenience-store chain, for a snack or beverage. Amenities: water sports. Best for: snorkeling; sunrise; surfing; walking.
The calm surf and relaxing shallows of Playa Pez Volador—the name translates as Flying Fish Beach—make it an aquatic playground for families with young children. Marked by a huge Mexican flag at Km 5.5, the wide beach is popular with locals, as many tourists tend to head to the more active Playa Langosta. Seagrass occasionally washes ashore here, but by early morning it is cleared away by the staff of the neighboring Casa Maya Hotel. Amenities: none. Best for: swimming.
You’ll find Cancún’s most isolated and deserted beach on the southern tip of the peninsula. Far from the crowds and party scene, Playa Punta Nizuc has few amenities other than those available to guests at the nearby Wet 'n Wild Waterpark (Km 25), Nizuc Resort (Km 21), or Club Med (Km 21.5). The lack of beach traffic helps keep the white sands clean and the waters sparkling, except when seagrass washes up. Bordered by jungle to the south, Playa Punta Nizuc can be accessed directly from Boulevard Kukulcán, so there's plenty of street parking—but make sure you bring water, snacks, sunscreen, and an umbrella for shade. This is a great place to collect shells or swim, since waves crash only on stormy days.Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: solitude; snorkeling; swimming; walking.
Don't be fooled by the name—this spot is seldom frequented by tortugas. It’s the opportunity to swim, snorkel, kayak, paraglide, and ride WaveRunners that really brings folks to Turtle Beach. The water is deep, but the beach itself (the nicest section of which is on the far right, just past the rocks) can get very crowded. Passengers usually grab a drink or snack here before catching the ferry to Isla Mujeres, and locals from El Centro will spend their entire weekend on the sand. If you are looking for isolation, head elsewhere. There's an over-the-water bungee-jumping tower where your head will actually touch the water.Amenities: food and drink; water sports. Best for: partiers; snorkeling; swimming.
Large signs on the Zona Hotelera's lagoon side, roughly opposite Playa Delfines, point out the so-called Ruins of the King, though the noble who held court here may or may not have been a king. Although much smaller than famous archaeological sites like Tulum and Chichén Itzá, this site is nevertheless worth a visit.
First entered into Western chronicles in a 16th-century travelogue, El Rey's ruins weren't explored by archaeologists until 1910, and excavations didn't begin until 1954. In 1975, archaeologists began restoration work on the 47 structures with the help of the Mexican government. In 2006, workmen unearthed an ancient Maya skeleton on the outskirts of the park.
Dating from the 3rd to 2nd century BC, El Rey is notable for having two main plazas bounded by two streets. (Most other Maya cities contain only one plaza.) Originally named Kin Ich Ahau Bonil, Mayan for "king of the solar countenance," the site was linked to astronomical practices. The pyramid is topped by a platform, and inside its vault are paintings on stucco. Skeletons interred at the apex and at the base indicate the site may have been a royal burial ground.
Located on Cancún's highest point (the name means "hilly land"), this archaeological site is on the grounds of the Park Royal Cancún and Westin Lagunamar, which means that nonguests can visit only from the beachside. The concierges at either hotel may let you enter through their property if you ask nicely, but otherwise head to Playa Marlín and admire the ruins from a distance. Although it consists of two structures—one probably a temple, the other probably a lighthouse—this is the smallest of Cancún's few archaeological sites. Discovered in 1842 by John Lloyd Stephens, the ruins date from the late 13th or early 14th century. Keep an eye out for roaming iguanas.
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