Hostal del Puente
This quiet, family-run hotel, at the end of a dusty street two blocks west of the Plaza de Armas, is quite a bargain. Simple rooms have small desks and windows that open onto a portico or overlook the parking area in back.
Ask for one of the older rooms in front, where a narrow garden holds níspero and cherry trees.
The owners can provide great travel advice for the area.